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Armor/AFV: AA/AT/Artillery
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1/35 M115 8 inch Howitzer WIP
redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 02:43 AM UTC
Fire Mission

1/35 AFV Club M115 8 inch Howitzer

Introduction

Originally designated M1 8 inch howitzer, it was developed during the 1930s. It saw service during WWII & Korea. It was towed by either the M4 18 ton tractor or the 7 ½ ton truck. It was also possible to be towed with the M35 prime mover. During the late 50s and 60s the weapon served in NATO as a nuclear artillery weapon. The M115 upper carriage and gun was used on an M4 chassis to produce the M43 8 inch HMC. Later the same upper carriage and gun were mounted to form the M110 8 inch self propelled howitzer.

The same lower carriage and upper carriage were used to create the M59 155mm gun, originally designated M1. Also, the same upper carriage mounted on the M110 with the 175mm gun made the M107 self propelled gun.
The M115 remained in service with the US military through the early 1980s and has seen and is still in service with many other countries worldwide.

Below, is an 8 inch howitzer in service during the Korean war and the basis of this build



The build

I will be using the AFV kit with Eduard photo etch.



I started by skipping the first few steps, which are the upper carriage and barrel and moved to step 4 which begins the lower carriage. The first two are steps are 4 & 5 which deal with the assembly of the trails. Since I will be using the Eduard PE set, the clips to hold the spades in transport mode were not used in favor of the PE versions. Here is the bare styrene assembly



After assembly of the PE parts, here are the trails



Step 6 is the assembly of the forward section of the lower carriage. Part of this step requires connecting the trails, which are locked in place by part A31. In order to facilitate painting of the trails, I will leave the trails separate and at least prime the trails OD before finalizing this assembly. Part A5 will have some ejector pin marks, which will require filling. Here is the forward end prior to paint.



Step 7 is the frame assembly for the wheel carriage. Care needs to be taken with some of the suspension arms and their removal from the sprue. Also parts B40 and B42 need to be checked for ejector pin marks.. Here we are after step 7



Step 8 assembles the brake system to the wheel carriage. I will be adding the brake lines later but pay attention to the brake assembly part B4 and its direction. There is a nub on one side for the connection of the air line. This should be pointing inward or each side is a mirror image. The instructions show this incorrectly.



Step 9 is the assembly of the wheel drums and stabilizer arms. Here is the completed step 9 assembly



While waiting for glue to dry on the above assemblies, I skipped to Step 14, which is the assembly of the transport trailer. The main part B18 requires a bunch of care to remove the mold seams and filling a sinkhole at the pintle connection. I replace the handles, parts B20 and B17 with SS 20 gauge wire. Also if you look at photos of the trailer (I used my personal and also Prime Portal) there is a long handle on each side of the yoke to allow the crew to lift and move the trailer. I added this with the same 20 gauge wire. The yokes were drilled to accept the wire handles. Rims and tires were left off to facilitate painting.

This photo is prior to filling the sinkhole and adding yoke handles, more of the straight styrene assembly



Well that’s it for now. I am off and building for 2012. Next will be to move the lower carriage parts in for priming and go back to assemble the upper carriage.

As always all comments are welcome

Rounds Complete!!


Paulinsibculo
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 04:11 AM UTC
Hi, Mike,

Good to see a new canon build! You're bookmarked.
Which area are you going into?
I ask since the WW2 version used another type of dolly. The one in the box is an improved type, starting to be used in the early '50.
For the WW2 version, have a look at Masters Production set MP35019.
Ammo can be found in AFV Club's 35017.

Happy modelling,
redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 04:42 AM UTC
Paul - Thanks for the peek. Good question. I am looking at Korea era and not WWII. This will have the improved dolly, military style tires and pulled by an M4 18 ton tractor.

I have an M59 on the shelf with the MP tires and dolly and a Mack NO for a WWII build heavy artillery build.

Thanks again

Rounds Complete!!
Paulinsibculo
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 07:21 AM UTC
http://www.41afdva.net/Fotos_M4%2018%20ton%20High%20Speed%20Tractor.htm

Maybe, these Dutch pictures can help you!
(To be fair: I just want to show some of my 'old' unit!)
trickymissfit
Joined: October 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 07:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Fire Mission

1/35 AFV Club M115 8 inch Howitzer

Introduction

Originally designated M1 8 inch howitzer, it was developed during the 1930s. It saw service during WWII & Korea. It was towed by either the M4 18 ton tractor or the 7 ½ ton truck. It was also possible to be towed with the M35 prime mover. During the late 50s and 60s the weapon served in NATO as a nuclear artillery weapon. The M115 upper carriage and gun was used on an M4 chassis to produce the M43 8 inch HMC. Later the same upper carriage and gun were mounted to form the M110 8 inch self propelled howitzer.

The same lower carriage and upper carriage were used to create the M59 155mm gun, originally designated M1. Also, the same upper carriage mounted on the M110 with the 175mm gun made the M107 self propelled gun.
The M115 remained in service with the US military through the early 1980s and has seen and is still in service with many other countries worldwide.

Below, is an 8 inch howitzer in service during the Korean war and the basis of this build



The build

I will be using the AFV kit with Eduard photo etch.



I started by skipping the first few steps, which are the upper carriage and barrel and moved to step 4 which begins the lower carriage. The first two are steps are 4 & 5 which deal with the assembly of the trails. Since I will be using the Eduard PE set, the clips to hold the spades in transport mode were not used in favor of the PE versions. Here is the bare styrene assembly



After assembly of the PE parts, here are the trails



Step 6 is the assembly of the forward section of the lower carriage. Part of this step requires connecting the trails, which are locked in place by part A31. In order to facilitate painting of the trails, I will leave the trails separate and at least prime the trails OD before finalizing this assembly. Part A5 will have some ejector pin marks, which will require filling. Here is the forward end prior to paint.



Step 7 is the frame assembly for the wheel carriage. Care needs to be taken with some of the suspension arms and their removal from the sprue. Also parts B40 and B42 need to be checked for ejector pin marks.. Here we are after step 7



Step 8 assembles the brake system to the wheel carriage. I will be adding the brake lines later but pay attention to the brake assembly part B4 and its direction. There is a nub on one side for the connection of the air line. This should be pointing inward or each side is a mirror image. The instructions show this incorrectly.



Step 9 is the assembly of the wheel drums and stabilizer arms. Here is the completed step 9 assembly



While waiting for glue to dry on the above assemblies, I skipped to Step 14, which is the assembly of the transport trailer. The main part B18 requires a bunch of care to remove the mold seams and filling a sinkhole at the pintle connection. I replace the handles, parts B20 and B17 with SS 20 gauge wire. Also if you look at photos of the trailer (I used my personal and also Prime Portal) there is a long handle on each side of the yoke to allow the crew to lift and move the trailer. I added this with the same 20 gauge wire. The yokes were drilled to accept the wire handles. Rims and tires were left off to facilitate painting.

This photo is prior to filling the sinkhole and adding yoke handles, more of the straight styrene assembly



Well that’s it for now. I am off and building for 2012. Next will be to move the lower carriage parts in for priming and go back to assemble the upper carriage.

As always all comments are welcome

Rounds Complete!!





I got lots and lots of pics of a very nice M115.
gary
HermannB
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 08:07 AM UTC
Hi Mike,
I wonder if the only difference between the M115 and the M59 only the turned barrel. I still look for an 8 inch barrel for my
M43 HMC.

Hans-Hermann

redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 09:40 AM UTC
Paul and Gary - Thanks for the pictures and the offer. Betwwen what is online and a stack of pictures and 8mm movies (converted to DVD) from my father-in-law, I am in good shape on the research side.

Hans - Actually the C sprue in this kit is the same as the M59 and in the M40. The sprue is even marked M59. The only difference is the metal barrel end.

Thanks for the peek guys

Rounds Complete!!
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 01:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I wonder if the only difference between the M115 and the M59 only the turned barrel. I still look for an 8 inch barrel for my
M43 HMC.



That's the only difference in the AFV Club kits, but in reality the two weapons used completely different tubes, breeches, and recoiling assemblies. The AFV Club kit is a 8-inch howitzer, so all that is needed for your M43 is an accurate muzzle piece.

KL
heliman
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 02:07 PM UTC
Mike- another fine project underway! Very interesting piece of history your building!

Jeff
redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 03:07 PM UTC
Jeff, thanks for the peek and for the comments

Kurt, agreed, but at 1/35 most people will not pick up the slight differences in the breech. .

The way the kits are built I never figured out why they never finished the series and came out with the M43....except for sales, which I presume were not great for the M40.

Thanks for the comments

Rounds Complete!!
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 06:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Kurt, agreed, but at 1/35 most people will not pick up the slight differences in the breech. .



The difference between the 8-inch and 155mm is pretty significant, as are the differences in the diameter, length, and spacing of the bands (or whatever they are called) and the portions of the tube visible between them.

The two tubes are shown side by side and overlaid in this sketch:



The 155mm gun was a long, slender, almost delicate looking piece while the 8-inch is smaller but "brutish". If you look at the two from the front or rear the difference is more visible as the space between the tube and the equilibrators and carriage frame is much larger on the 155.

KL
redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 11:32 PM UTC
Kurt - nice drawing, and great information. ... yes the length is off if you build the 155mm. Either the M59 or M40 kit require the "bologna" slices added to the rear to get the length correct and looking correct. The breech diameter is not as noticeable at 1/35.

It is ironic that the sprue is marked M59 for the 155mm but the barrel and breech parts are really for the M115.

Thanks Kurt for the drawing.

Rounds Complete!!
redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 02:45 PM UTC
Going back to the beginning, step 1 has the assembly of the barrel and sled. It also calls for the assembly of the breech, which I have kept separated to facilitate painting. The seam for the two rear halves of the barrel take a bit of work and filling with Mr. Surfacer 500. After careful filling and sanding, here is the barrel with sled.



Step 2 assembles the upper carriage. There is some large ejector pin marks on the inside and a major seam where the two halves come together. Again, another bunch of work with Mr. Surfacer to clean up the assembly and here is the assembly. I left off the panoramic telescope for painting and the delicate hand wheels until I begin final assembly.



Also is the assembly of the recoil sled. Again, the assembly is two major halves which has a major seam along with injector pin marks on the inside rear which may show and on one side of the elevating gear. Once the seam and pin marks were sealed with Mr.Surfacer, here is the assembly.



After all the sealing and pin mark filling I am finally off to the paint booth to prime all the major assemblies with Vallejo OD primer. Hopefully with all the filling work done the build will move along now but those who may build this or the M59, be ready for pin marks, sink marks and bunches of seams, all which require work.

As always all comments are welcome

Rounds Complete!!
jimz66
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Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 04:03 PM UTC
NIce work Mike... Looking very good...
redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 11:54 PM UTC
Jim - Thanks for the peek and the comments.

Rounds Complete!!
redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 12:55 PM UTC
After priming with Vallejo OD primer (which I highly recommend …... great primer) , sometimes going back to touch up a seam but ultimately primed and the a finish coat of Poly Scale OD.

I decided to go with the rubber tires supplied with the kit. After a soak cleaning in Dishwasher cleaner to remove wax and oil on the surface. Then rand each tire across a scotch guard pad to rough up the tread and give the tire some side ware. I then cleaned up the tire using clean Mineral Spirits. Allowing a day for the tires to totally dry, I mounted the tires on the rims, made up the dual tire assemblies and glued the duals to the axle on the bogie.



With the tires on the rims, I was also able to assemble the M5 Carriage Limber. This will be part of my upcoming M4 HST build, but is part of the M59 kit.



I mated the lower carriage with the upper carriage. The traversing gear and gear assembly were painted with Alclad Steel along with elevating gear assembly. The spaced there the bogie rides was also painted with Alclad Steel. The brake line inside each trail was painted with a 50/50 mix of NATO & Flat Black for the black rubber airline. More of the airline system will be added later but here is the lower assembly now.



Lastly the barrel sled and recoil cradle. After trimming the sled so it would fit and slide into place, the sled was placed. The forward edge of the sled was painted with Alclad Steel where the movement from recoil would keep the parts clean. The breechblock was painted with Alclad Steel. The block was mounted to the breech and assembled to the tube rear, after sliding the tube in place. The elevating gear on the bottom of the recoil cradle was painted with Alclad Steel. Also the inside of the tube was painted with Alclad Steel.



Next up is to begin overall assembly and add some scratch details.

As always all comments are welcome

Rounds Complete!!
bill_c
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Monday, January 30, 2012 - 07:37 AM UTC
Nice work, Mike. Really coming along nicely. Diorama or just straight build?
corsair924
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Posted: Monday, January 30, 2012 - 08:43 AM UTC
Sweet build Mike.
I did the Tom last year and it currently sits behind an M8 HST. I started but haven't finished the M40 but the carpet ate too many of the (microscopic!) parts.
redleg12
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Posted: Monday, January 30, 2012 - 01:36 PM UTC
Bill - Thanks. Yes and no on the dio. I will have the 8 inch on its own base as if it is in the middle of being emplaced with all the appropriate details all around.

My next build will be the M4 HST to go with it. I will have the M5 Limber with the M4 HST, also trying to unload. It will also be on a separate base but can sit next to the 8 inch in the display case.

J - I understand the small parts on the M40....been there...patience. Thanks for the peek.

Rounds Complete!!
Juheemam
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Posted: Friday, February 10, 2012 - 02:52 PM UTC
Good Morning,

Sorry to trouble you, but I have just purchased the same model. There are two pieces which when joined form a triangular shaped box section. These are numbered A20 and A21.

Can anyone please enlighten me as to where this piece should go.

Regards

Bill
KeroJP8
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Posted: Friday, February 10, 2012 - 08:01 PM UTC
Hi Mike,

That's a wonderful build of an awesome arty gun.

I got the same, been waiting for years in the stash... But your build is so inspiring it should be next !

Keep it up ! You're doing a very good job !

Looking forward to seeing more.

Regards,

Richard
redleg12
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Posted: Saturday, February 11, 2012 - 12:32 AM UTC
Bill - To answer your question....in the spare parts box. They are not used on the M115.M1 8 inch. Enjoy the build

Pottier - Thanks for the peek and I appreciate your comments.

I will have an update this weekend, so check back soon.

Thanks again

Rounds Complete!!
Juheemam
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Posted: Saturday, February 11, 2012 - 03:27 AM UTC
Cheers Redleg, Thanks for the info.

Bill
redleg12
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 12:53 PM UTC
With the major assemblies painted it was time to bring the upper and lower carriage together. The barrel and sled was added after working the sled to get it to fit. This assembly is very tight on all the AFV models with this carriage all require some blade and sanding work to fit the parts without breaking the upper carriage I then assembled the breechblock, which I painted with Alclad Steel. With the upper carriage assembled, I added the equilibrators, which were painted on their working section with Alclad Polished Aluminum. Before mounting the upper carriage to the lower, the gear surfaces for elevation and traverse were painted with Alclad Steel After the mating of the two carriages, the front and rear spades were added.



As you can see with the spades mounted the assembly is not stable to work on. With that it was off to the woodwork shop to create a base. After staining and sealing the wood a sheet of Styrofoam is mounted to to create a base to dig a hole in. The photo below shows the Styrofoam with the holes cut to fit the front and rear spades.



After a coat of Cell-u-clay and a coat of Poly Scale Earth I mounted the howitzer. The holes are filled with Cell-u-clay to form a pile, as the holes would be refilled when the howitzer is actually emplaced. Below you can see the howitzer at this point with the test fit of the bogie section.



After pin washing with MIG Dark Wash and an overall first filter coat with MIG Grey for Green I began working on some details. I finished and mounted the panoramic telescope. Overall painted with Tamiya OD Green, the level bubble, mirror and eye cup painted with Alclad Polished Aluminum, the traverse dial and hand wheels painted with Tamiya Flat Black.



Next it was time for the brakes. I used 26 gauge SS wire to make the strain relief springs and soft 20 gage black wire for the lines to make the connection from the trails to the lower carriage section. Prior to mounting, the molded in brake lines on the trail were painted with a flat black marker and the connector near the back of the trail was painted with Alclad Steel.

This also gives you a good view of the breech. Not seen in this photo is the .020 hole drilled into the firing lock to add a lanyard later.



The front brake lines were assembled the same way as above. The back line comes off a pneumatic Tee which I used the Aber Pneumatic Parts PE set to make the Tee which is mounted on the dimple just behind the bogie guide. The front lines required a .020 hole be drilled in either side of the pneumatic control box which is on the front of the lower carriage.

With the boige in place and the brake lines connected, the bogie adjustment screws were added. These were painted OD, dry brushed to raised screw surfaces with Alclad Steel and inside the threads pin washed with MIG Dark Wash. Ware was also put on the head with Alclad Steel. Lastly the travel lock was added and the moving pins were dry brushed with Alclad Steel.

This photo you can see the travel lock in the center of the bogie and one of the rear air lines connected to the brake assembly. You can also see the pneumatic Tee to the right of the travel lock, in the back center of the bogie.



That’s it for now. Time for lots more little details and weathering to come

As always all comments are welcome

Rounds Complete!!

HeavyArty
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 01:11 PM UTC
It is coming along nicely Mike. The brake lines really look good. I know they were a b!#@h to make, but it paid off. Great job.
 _GOTOTOP