Robert,

I was just trying to suggest/remind you of items that could be present, but your pictures certainly are proof to follow.

I'm a bit surprised, though that no empty casings or links were inside, those buggers got everywhere, especially down your top!

I can see some weathering in the driver's compartment, but the flash/lighting must be washing it out in the images. It just didn't look like much.

Excellent work!

Jeff, no worries. I appreciate all tips.

Who knows, maybe a few shells or links made it through the TC hatch and onto the floor, but there was so much stuff down there they probably rolled under something.

Bob

I am waiting for a couple of things to dry before I close up the interior. So I took a look at what I could do on the exterior while I still had the top off.

I started on the rear. I am using the Eduard M113A2 detail kit, which is meant for the Tamiya Desert Version - as far as I know, there is none for this Academy A3 kit. Most of the Eduard kit is useable for this project.

The fuel tanks get detailed with some Eduard PE. The Eduard stuff is for the jerry cans. The Academy kit provides just little blobs. I think I will leave the right rear one empty to show the detail and the heavy scratching that took place in that area. I also added the many small bolts using Grandt Line bolts. There is a total of 9 bolts on each fuel tank.

I detailed the tow hook attachment with a rod and 'T' handle. A retaining wire will be added after painting. You can also see two Eduard grab handles I added after removing the Academy blobs.

I finished the head for the driver by adding goggles and a strap and painted the camo cover too. The driver body is in the driver seat already. When I close up the interior I will place this head on the figure and call the interior done.

The PE part to the left of the tank is an example of the Eduard light guard that I felt was too narrow for this build. Maybe it is good for the A2, but it was too small when comparing to real photos. So I kept the kit part but thinned down the tops and sides to try and get a scale appearance. I used the Eduard light covers since they are correct. The model incorrectly provides dulicates for both sides, when the light covers are different for each side.

I am usually against blood in models, tends to look childish and detracts from the overall appearance. Your model is the first example I've seen that has it done effectively and helps in telling the story. Very well done. Keep it up.

Great work Sir, keep us updated..

A little update. I closed up the interior along with the driver figure. After I glued everything shut I realized I forgot to put the 3rd ID decals on the helmet, but there was plenty of room to work that out and now the decals are on.

The front slope took several tries with the add-on armor, and the lights were a pain too. The wiring took two tries. I used a bit larger gauged wire first and was going to live with it but decided today I had to make the change, so what you see now is the second try with the wiring. PE scraps were used for the guard behind the left light set, and for the shovel holder next to the horn on the other side. Lots of bolts for the add-on armor, light stands, and whatever you call that top middle thing (I think it is some kind of accordian type of device used in the floatation process, but I will let the knowledgeable folks chime on on that).

Eduard grille covers.

Next up I will be trying to tackle the compressed suspension.

Bob - It is coming along very nicely....love the details.

The figure looks great...can't wait to see the latest updates in person

Rounds Complete!!

I fixed the crooked right side lights and leveled out the add-on armor in the middle area by adding a shim of plastic. The swim vane covered most of it up but I decided to fix it since it was not completely covered.

I added the smoke discharger arrays and detailed them with the mounting bolts above, below, and on the sides. Academy parts are thin enough so I did not use the Eduard parts. Academy has you mount them too high on the frontal slope, so I lowered them just a bit. My camera lens distorts the photos just a bit and it appears the launchers are too wide, but in reality they are lined up with the sides as they should be.

I also added a few bits on the rear roof. I shaved the fuel cap off the roof since there is no internal fuel cell. Fuel caps are only on the two fuel cells themselves. There should be a slight step to the raised rear plate where the bump stops are. Tamiya got this right, but somehow Academy missed this. I decided to leave it go.

Looking great Bob. Keep up the good work.

Okay, after a break, tonight I was back at it. I decided it was time to get to the compressed suspension. After much thought and in reviewing photos, I felt the easiest way to do this was to use the profile photos I had and compare the roadwheels to fixed objects like the sandshield. I figured that I just needed to figure out the front roadwheel and last roadwheel on each side, and then use a straight edge to get the middle wheels lined up. To accomplish the glue points on the chassis had to be shaved off of course. Only the rearmost roadwheel was glued in the kit's intended position.

So, the photos show that. First, though, I had to get rid of all the nice outside edge rim bolts on the roadhweels. I saw that my vehicle did not have them, so they sadly had to go. I also chipped up the rubber parts of the wheels.

At the same time I started work on the TC hatch. The periscope guards are replaced w/ PE and the hatch handle moved to the other side - Academy puts it on the incorrect side.

I finished the compressed suspension. I also added weld beads to the fuel cells and roof perimeter. I used Archer weld beads for this. On advisement I did not try to wrap the decals around corners as they do not like to stay down in that situation. I cut them at each "turn." You need to cut them close to the weld bead since the carrier film has no end.

Now I am going to finish detailing the roof and TC hatch.

Progress on the roof.

In speaking with the track commander he noted the antenna locations for me and so I had to make some changes on the kit. I used the AFV Club Stryker detail kit antennas and they fit perfectly in the round plates already on the kit. I shaved off the antenna base behind the driver hatch and replaced the lost bolts with Grandt Line bolts.

I used parts of the Eduard kit for the bases of the antenna guards with Grandt Line bolts and while I was at it I placed the bolts and chains for the driver and troop hatches.

I finally glued the air intake covers and driver periscope guards, as well as the fire extinguisher trigger and cover. Since the PE handle was flat I bulked it out with layers of white glue.

Lastly, I noticed a lip on the troop hatch that is not on the kit, as well as a large weld bead around that lip. I scraped off the paint I already had there and used Evergreen .020mm x .080mm strips around the inside edges. Then I used the largest weld beads by Archer around the outside portion of the hatch.

Small update.

I went back to the TC area and glued on the hatch finally after adding another grab handle I noticed in photos - up near the top edge of the hatch. This is flat in appearance so I used the PE one from Eduard and added a couple of small bolts.

At the top of the photo is the Academy MG and since it has the flash suppressor I chose to use the AFV Club MG from their Stryker detail set. It is very nice and is the same size as the Academy one so all is good. I am using the PE mount for the MG and this will look much nicer than the kit set up. I have not tried to bend the tiny front sight yet for the MG, but when I do then I will shave off the AFV Club solid one and use the much nicer PE one.

I really like the ammo can holder from Eduard and it is shown here all ready to go. My only head scratcher wll be adding the shells to one of the empty cans.

The mortar damaged driver's hatch is shown here too. It is hard to see, but the rubber seal is torn, and impact marks were added with a dremel tool. I added some PE parts too as can be seen. The periscope area had bolts that stood out and this is incorrect, so I shaved them off and drilled holes in their place, since the screws are recessed in real life. And I added gas detection tape to the grab handle.



Next I will be adding the empty tool clasps on the rear roof and scratching the tripod clasps next to the TC area.

Bob

Amazing work Bob. Your efforts are really paying off and are a true tribute to this piece of American military history.

Your building a very nice model! I love all the little details etc.
cant wait for the sand color and weathered vehicle.
Keep it going!

Nice deatil work so far Bob. I don't know if you want to bother with another little detail; these photos are from a Canadian M113A2, but I believe the rear lift hooks are the same. Note how they overhang the roof plate and are actually out on little 'tabs' which the weld seam goes around. The bolt heads are pretty significant as well.




Cheers,
Jim

Hi Boris. This vehicle was solid green and the Co 1st Sgt sprayed some rattle can sand color on the sides, so this will not be a tan track. It will be weathered though of course. In real life there was lots of sand on the roof, but if I put as much on the model as there was in real life I am sure most viewers will question the realism of that. Something for me to experiment with when I get to the weathering part, though.

One of my real problems will be showing the MANY - actually piles - of spent .50 cal links. I just can't afford what is available through Mission Models, as nice as they are. Hundreds of rounds were used in the fight. Of course, I don't have to be that realistic, but I still need to show more than just a handful of spent shells and links.

Jim, your point is very interesting and something I never noticed until you pointed it out. My photos from Prime Portal and here on Armorama show that most but not all tracks are this way with the rear lift hooks. But, in the low resolution photo I have of the actual track, it appears that this track did not have the lift hooks out over the weld bead. Whew, something I won't fret about. However, I now think I will add that step to the rear plate. It will just take a bit of evergreen strip cut to the correct length.

The actual track roof


Examples:








Thanks for all the encouragement.

Bob

Looks like the ones that are inboard are angled (ie. 'bent over') as well - wonder if they're specific to -A3's? I figured there were probably variances between all the different hulls.

Jim

Arms Corps Models ACM35869
Sorry for the shameless plug.
I have test cast a few spent .50 cal rounds and believe it or not, link!
I just need to find the time to finalize a couple of the molds so I can produce the spent link and rounds in bulk.

Very nice job on the car.

Cheers Jason

Getting close to being done with the build.

I added the step on the rear plate using Evergreen strip, and then I added the weld beads on the step and at the base of the rear plate too.

I finished the tool clasps. All are empty since the crew carried the tools inside or in the trailer. On the right side of the TC cupola are the .50 cal tripod clasps. I made these out of scrap PE.

Thin Evergreen plastic and the Eduard PE set help with the rear portion of the roof. Much of it will be covered up by the troop hatch, but it still can be seen from the sides.

Next up I have to scratch the long pioneer box that was on the right side of the roof. I am saving for last the many tie downs for both the roof and side hull. I already started scraping off some of the molded on tiedowns.

The Pioneer Box:

I was going to do it in plastic, but I thought doing it in birch would look good. So I bought some birch plywood and gave it a go. I think I will stay with this.

I used Tamiya tape for the strengthening bands along the sides and bottom, but the box top would be wider, so I used angle plastic. The real thing has screws to afix the strengthening bands so I gave this a try with Alliance Modelworks screwheads. I used the smallest option. THey are cool because they are not held onto the photoetch tree with tabs. They are held on with thin film, so you just peel the film back and the screws come off onto the film and you then pick them up with tweezers.

The real thing.




Photo 1 - the box upside down with plastic square rod to help keeps things at right angles.


Photo 2 - Right side up.


Photo 3 - Strengthening bands added.


4, 5, and 6 - almost done. I wanted to see what the screws would look like so I just did the top.

Fantastic work Robert !

The pioneer box looks great, as all work in vehicle and figures.

Cheers !

Marco

Hi Bob,

Sorry I'm late to this build. Looks great.

I just read the bio and citation on Sgt Smith. Sounds just like Audie Murphy and both were from the 3rd ID, too. RIP Sgt Smith. Well Done!

Steve

Wish I had caught this one from the beginning! Your detail work is outstanding! I'm glad to see a no holds barred build. Too many people seem to worry that certain builds would be too graphic for general eyes. I've been a fan of M113s for a while and this build has inspired me to add one more to my queue.

Thanks folks. I will finish the box and the I have to move onto the worst part, replacing all th tiedowns.