That is some really nice weathering. Very nicely posted and wonderfully executed.

second : a fresh-rust-flowing-all-around effect is applied with the transparent filter MILD RUST.
This passage will better blend the whole rusting, and make it more suitable to a cold and wet environment

Made both with washes on slightly water-moisted areas (wheel hubs and walk-on plates)







and with airbrush (on large rusted dots all around)
This way also the somewhat excessive chipping, made with "scraping" technique, is better blended

@ Scott

Wow Giuseppe,
effects are very realistic!!! Beautiful work. Bravo!
One sees own the artist's hand ...
Saluti
Gianfranco

Grazie Gianfranco !

A bit dirt on the masked windows now, with a thin airbrush of the transparent filter PAINT FADING 2

Some pics of the weathered model , before adding dirt









radiator leaks are also made with PAINT FADING 2
( vehicle sign are wrong for Bastogne, I'll change them later... or just cover with mud...)

Now let's get into dirt...!

There's a liquid filter into the range, who can be used both with brush or airbrush. It is a "structured filter": when dry it leaves an uneven surface, a thin irregularly patterned surface. Like dry dust/mud particles splashed on to the surface.

Here airbrushed on lower areas, more at center of panels





Directly spread with a brush-and-finger for side splashes (as I did with humbrols a long time ago in my modeller history... :oops: )

While wet, airbrushed over wheels. A bit transparent as applied, but really flat when dry.



Here you can better see the irregular pattern it leaves

Again into the dirt...
While still wet, I've cleaned up a bit the tires with a finger, to reproduce rolling on a concrete road.



Broad washes, on moisted surfaces, to build up dirt on corners

a bit of wet effect here and there, a product soon to be released

now, apart form the markings I will correct... or cover, the dodge at it's trailer are finished

Now I'll jump in the diorama...

I took the first steps of setting, on paper. I always try to minimize the size: the minimum necessary to tell the story.



I dated the scene precisely at 19 December 1944, Bastogne. is the day when, as the circle closes around the besieged city, Reinforcements arrive from men of the 101st paratroopers. The last part of the transfer was done on foot, and this is the story I tell: the last ambulances leaving the city, in one direction. And the paratroopers in the opposite direction.

The inspiration for the story I got from books:

"Citizens in uniform", I think everyone knows ...

And the precious "Battle fo the Bulge" from Danny. S.Parker, which provides the exact dates and even the weather conditions of the battlefield

The third reference book is "the World War II GI, U.S. Army uniforms 1941-45" from Richard Windrow and Tim Hawkins.

There are different models of Ardennes houses on the market. Surely the sizes of these models are accurate, but at my eyes they always seem too big, out of scale.
First of all, I needed something that was to measure the size of the diorama, and I like that the setting is "only mine".

I first picked up on the internet several photos of local architecture. Fortunately, most of the country houses of the time is still standing and inhabited, because I needed some color photos to the stone and the window frames.
And some real estate restored, if you are interested in buying ...

I first made ​​a drawing on paper of the facades, with measures that felt right for the scale.

Long sought a material that was processed with ease at home without special equipment and without the drawbacks of other materials (the last time I carved plaster in the house I had to clean for a week ...)
This material is a poly-urethane mix conglomerate (not a foam, as you find everywhere: For example, it glues with solvent-based glues)

First I superimposed the paper template to a sheet of material 1 inch thick, and I retraced the outline with the pen. Then I cut the shape and windows following the contour slightly traced on the material







the stones are carved ... with a pen ...





Needless to say, I immediately inserted it in the catalog ...

Having carved and glued all the pieces, I made a coat of white glue and water. This makes the lightweight material that is less absorbent, and ... shockproof

This is what I need to learn more about. The fading, ageing ... just general weathering techniques. Yours turned out awesome!

Also, what camera are you using Giuseppe? If you don't mind me asking. I think the correct camera choice and settings can make or break the work and you done excellent on both!








~ Jeff

Hi Jeff,

yes , techniques are more or less the same used for solvant based filters. For some passages even easier.

A substantial difference is in using water instead of solvants.
An other is that you need no transparent protective finish before the filtering process.
And with uncomparable drying time of minutes.
Plus others, but I'm speaking of my own son, can't exceed...

About the camera, do not expect a professional one. Just a little nikon coolpix p5100, aged at least 4-5 years.

Hi, and thanks

Incredible work. Great job, Guiseppe.

Just amazing work man. great SBS and very nice results. i would like to know more about this product.

Gary

Hi Rick, thank you !:-H




Hi Gary, you find "stuttura" features here :
TRUE EARTH Struttura LINK

(turn page to english)

The building's parts are then placed on a normal foam block.

Road too is made with"struttura", slightly sanded to a convex shape.

Ready Earth - stone-concrete paste is then added, to add both a rough finish (crawling over a metal ruler while fresh), and a greyish color

the building is first painted with a thick layer of acrylic paint, color is orange+ a bit of grey



then painted with mixes of oil paints :
naples yellow
ochre yellow
dark ochre
titanium white
raw umber
payne's grey

I'm a bit late in proceeding with this topic, but i'd gone in Normandy, than in Musee de blindee in Saumur into the latest week, you can understand....


Road and building done and in place, i then added terrain.

It was made with "TRUE-EARTH Ready Terrain" too, in the color Rough Earth

Just spread it with a little spatula, and after some minutes textured with a rough brush








While still fresh, some traces are carved into the soft material, rolling over a wheel

to give a little life to the side street, I created a rise, as the passage of carts.
I then connected it to the rest with a water-wet brush