Jeff - Thank you Sir!


Spackling process has begun

So as of now I'm painting my Stug IV in a late war scheme, the only issue is that my airbrush isn't at it's full function yet, so I'm using a spray can. I just need to know the best way of doing a camo pattern with one? I used to cut holes in papers but that's not the best way to do things...

Bit of a problem

-Conor

Panzerconor - Sounds like tape, putty, or hand painting is in your future. I do not envy you having to go back to spray cans and handbrushing.

Conor, there are many ways to accomplish that without an AB. Take it from someone who isn't using one, just not yet.

Brushing, sponge brushes, using cotton balls. putty... the later two by using a rattle can. Drawing the pattern on the vehicle, then outlining with a tiny brush and then fill it in by using a sponge brush is the best way to avoid brush marks. Of course, using enamel paint.

My 1/16th Sturmtiger is done that way.










~ Jeff

I'm not quite as worried as I should be, mostly because I'm whitewashing it too. I'm not gonna post any pictures until all that's done though. I whitewashed a Panther a few months ago and I'm happy with it, so this Stug should look good.

-Conor

Still plugging away gradually. Waited a week for this glue pond to dry

I have a R.B. model replacement barrel for my Stug AustF. The instructions on their web site leave me perplexed. Figured out some of the placement though where do the three rings/washers go?

Hello Trevor,
here´s your answer, if you´d have checked the thread from the start you would have found this:
Paul
Quoted Text
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And a first question.
Anyone has an idea as to where to fit the 3 round PE parts that are provided with the metal gun? There are no instructions provided with the RB barrel, and i am clueless as to were they go.
Here the pic:




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The two rings with gear-like teeth go inside the muzzle brake, the smooth one goes between the rear half of the muzzle brake and the small collar ring. The two tiny parts represent locking nuts - one goes on the back of the muzzle brake.
Take a look at Armorscale's barrel instructions: http://www.armorscale.com/products/barrels35/B35-059/
Probably easier to understand than my written explanations.

If I'm not mistaken, the turned brass parts on a lot of Armorscale sets are made by RB, with added bling like instructions, a bit more expansive PE and resin parts. The instructions they have on their website are often really helpful when working with the more complicated RB barrels.

Hmmm... Looking at all the nice builds going on, I starting to think if I should jump in as well.

Greg, its lookin' mighty good man! Keep it comin'!!!

Gary

Great looking diorama, Gary.

Looking forward to see more

Thanks Gary, Jesper,

I got the finishing steps all in my head, just need the time to implement now

I am trying to build the dragon III Ausf F, in the red and green box. Threy have a photo etch piece which they state is the rear exhaust deflector. The directions show that is just slips in. Two holes are in each muffler in which the pins on the piece slide into. I can not get that piece to fit. Looked at photos and can not see that piece installed. Any suggestions in how it can be placed on or just forget it. Thanks for your suggestions.

Trevor, does this help?



Or some links:

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/griffon/lb35002-4.html

http://scalemodelworld.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5153&sid=a8084ecfa42b7a2437eb7687f33d5e32




Also, about the exhaust deflector. Sometimes with those kits PE the parts or plastic need some "altering or adjusting" to fit correctly. My suggestion would be to google builds of your model in order to see how it fits.

If you need more help I'll see if any of my kits have a similar set. Same thing with the barrel... I have a Voyager instruction sheet.










~ Jeff

Yes that part is very confusing. I believe the part to be slightly over sized. I was able to get mine to sit in , but it does have a slight curve to it. I looked at all sorts of pictures on the net of StuGs, but could not really see that part on an actual StuG, usually due to no pics from that angle or poor picture quality. I think i did find one picture, but unfortunately, that was earlier this summer and don't remember where i found it.

Hello Trevor,
maybe these can help:






Paul

Looks like it is supposed to be curved. So the piece isn't over sized. I did something correct!

Thank you all for the assistance, this is a great resource. Back to finishing this tank.

Here are some photos of my progress. The offending heat shield is installed. Went a bit heavy on the dull coat need to remedy that. When installing the track the rear idler was not in alignment so the track needed to shift. Did not notice that until installed and too late to alter. The fenders hide that error. With your assistance was able to complete and attach the barrel

Looks like you've got it licked Trevor and looking very nice!










~ Jeff

Trevor - Your Stug looks nice! Is that a hint of a white wash or the result of the heavy dullcoat? What im lookin' at looks pretty damn sweet!!

Gary

Great looking Stug. It may be hard to get that extra dullcoat off without taking off paint. You want to consider the whitewash route or just leave it with a frosty look. Is that dullcote enamel or acrylic based?

The testors dull coat I used is lacquer based. Not too sure what I will do. Spraying it with Future/Ajax/Pledge/? what ever your country sells usually takes away the fogged look. Thanks for the comments.

My Stug is ready for paint!

More:

some rear