I just got Tamiya's Challenger II Desertized, Voyager's Challenger Update, and Lionmarc barrel. As per my usual method, I will be saving the roadwheels and idlers to paint and assemble last. I have three articles on building this kit from various magazines. I also have three sheets of decals for different vehicles. So, without further ado here is the completion of steps 1-3 minus the aforementioned.

I have the same kit in the stash. Definitely watching this build.

Eric

Me Too Matt ! Are you going to try anti-skid coating on it !
Have Fun !

As far as the anti-skid coating, I have a few different techniques I need to test on a spare model. So, yes, I will be adding the anti-skid/slip surface. I may also pick up another pe set, as the Voyager seems to be lacking in some respects. Speeking of the Voyager pe, it is a little tricky. The is no how to fold directions, but rather a line drawing of how it should look in the end. The plus is that, when compared with their BMP3 basic set, this one is much thicker and not nearly as fragile. I'll be posting some more photos in the next few hours.

yeah! got this one too. will be following this with interest.
what other PE set would you buy in place of the voyagers?
Boris

Hi Matt .. This was one of my favorite kits (Not bad for someone who builds 99% WWII stuff eh! )
I used Mr. Surfacer 500 applied with a paint brush with the bristles cut very short ..I think it came out well ..



There are some great reference pictures here ...
http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/challenger2.htm

Hope this helps

Rick

Soon as I find a template to cut circles, I have contractor's primer that is perfect for making the anti-skid surface. I'll be going by Michael's next week to pick one up.

The upper hull primed and masked for the anti-skid texture.

I have run into another problem. The fine lines on the turret should not recieve the anti-skid texture. The Problem, they are about the width of a hair. Any ideas on how to mask this or if I should attempt to?

Hey Matt,
looking good so far...
there's no need to mask the engraved lines, just use an x-acto to scrape off the texture once it's dry...

Cheers, Max

According to my experiences with terra-cotta spray you should definitely mask the engraved lines because the spray will fill them partially. Using a X-Acto blade may be an option but for me it has been too much balancing act not damaging the engravings by scratching over and through them.

I always apply anti slip coating area by area. A lot of work, no question about it but it's really worth the work. In case of engraved structures and raised parts/areas a pretty thin liquid mask is the most important thing you need. I always use the liquid mask from 502 Abteilung. Due to it's capillarity it runs easily in engravings and around details and it can be removed without any problems after drying from anywhere. Although it's ammonia based it never harmed any colors on my models. It just smells a bit.

Hope this helps...



Bernd

I used this... can't be simpler

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to order some Mr. Surfacer 500. I'll check my lhs for micro masking tape. Thank god they stock Tamiya tape.

Narrow masking tape can be made from Tamiya masking tape. Just stick it on glass or an old CD-case, grab a (metal) ruler and a X-acto blade and cut it the length and with you need it.

I still can't get myself to pay for the Tamiya tape. I use regular painters tape for everything, and cut to size as needed.

I have found that painters tape and drafting tape both work well. The drafting tape is my preferred choice as it is less tacky than the painters tape and does not pull at paint, as I have seen the painters tape do every once in a while.

I just put antiskid on my Challenger the other night and used the Tamiya tape/textured Rustoleum combo.

looking at this picture, it looks like the no-slip goes right up to the panel line. I think I will be going back over what I did with a brush- my masked lines are too thick

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/ulrich_wrede/challengerii/images/challengerii_32_of_36.jpg

Here's the reference I am using:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/HeavyArty/DSCN0841.jpg
The problem I am having with painter's tape is that it tears, when I try to cut very fine lines.

ohh...thanks. That is helpful.

No prob Jason.

I have one of these started but on the backburner, I'll be looking forward to seeing how yours turns out.

I was at Lowe's, today looking for red oxide primer. No luck on the primer, but it was just my day. Rustoleum textured paint reached out and slapped me in the face. I picked up a can of white and went home happily. This stuff sprays pretty heavy, so I had to back the can off by about a foot and a half. Here is the result.

Does anybody have a suggestion on what color to paint this thing? The instructions call for TS light sand. My lhs does not stock it and I would prefer to airbrush the kit over laying thick coats down.

To me, it looks a tad more yellow the the US sand color. I believe Model Master has a "gulf armor sand" or something along that name that is a bit more yellow than just "sand". I would go that route. Photos of anything in Iraq would show that the environment very quickly coated everything outside in a hurry with layers of dust, so I wouldn't be too overly concerned.

From pictures I have found, it looks like there are two colo(u)rs....the "stone" color and then an even more yellow color. I even found a couple pictures with the yellow-sand color and a few replacement parts in the stone color. http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/bison/bd35008.htm
I ended up taking Tamiya XF-60 and mixing in yellow about 4:1. No clue if that is technically correct but it looks good to me