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Armor/AFV: Braille Scale
1/72 and 1/76 Scale Armor and AFVs.
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Neubau-Fahrzeug No. 3-5
tread_geek
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 08:51 AM UTC
Well, I was just going to edit my last post and throw in a few pictures of the NbFz with a Russian Marine (from a separate review) and then I saw weathering_one asking about the same thing, so I shot some comparison images.

For all, and in particular Matthew (firstcircle), I thought that a side by side with a Panzer III (I'll finish that one in the new year) would give a good example of size comparison (especially since Matthew did the recent built review of one) along with a Russian Marine.







You'll notice that the NbFz isn't quite as large as one might expect. Larger yes, but no King Tiger. Since AJ (weathering_one) has a Fujimi PaK 40, and the Dragon one is virtually identical in size...



I'm sure all will note that the PaK is a BIG gun and not exactly light at a ton and a half.

Cheers,
Jan
Braille
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 09:35 AM UTC
@tread_geek – Jan,

Good progress on this demonic looking creature! On a more cynical note concerning the story as related to the remains of one of these vehicles in the Gudbrandsdal Krigsminnesamling – Museum, I’m sure that that crew was more than happy to destroy their home away home in order to get themselves into a newer and obviously more modern home, just saying!

I don’t know if I’ll ever include one of these in my collection but I have my fingers crossed and await a T-35 multi-headed beast to arrive in plastic someday. Still watching you bring this one to something resembling a tank is interesting and temps me into perhaps considering one for the pile?

Keep up the excellent work,
~ Eddy
tread_geek
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 05:46 AM UTC
[quote]@Braille – Eddy,


Quoted Text

...On a more cynical note concerning the story as related to the remains of one of these vehicles in the Gudbrandsdal Krigsminnesamling – Museum, I’m sure that that crew was more than happy to destroy their home away home in order to get themselves into a newer and obviously more modern home, just saying!


Actually Eddy, during the time that these tanks served in Norway they were the most modern in that country. The only other armour at the time consisted of Panzer I's and II's with the II's usually delegated as command tanks for the I's. So, with a 37mm and more so the 75mm guns, these were akin to land battleships.


Quoted Text

I don’t know if I’ll ever include one of these in my collection but I have my fingers crossed and await a T-35 multi-headed beast to arrive in plastic someday. Still watching you bring this one to something resembling a tank is interesting and temps me into perhaps considering one for the pile?


As there were so few of these made one has to wonder why Dragon chose such an obscure subject when there are so many others that it seems the modelling public would drool to have. On the other hand, if this was a start to a theme (multi-turreted tanks) then that might be interesting. Besides the T-35 there were several other Russian one's as well as contemporaries by other European powers.

Thanks for dropping in and commenting, progress should resume shortly.

Cheers,
Jan
tread_geek
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Posted: Thursday, January 17, 2013 - 06:27 AM UTC
This thing is turning out to be a real learning experience, to say the least. I'm almost sorry that I didn't go for a pristine propaganda version.

I re-sprayed the entire tanks with a lightened version of the Panzer Grey as I wasn't happy with the way it was looking. After taking an afternoon to practice with my airbrush I finally decided to spray a lightened red-brown (r/b) camo this time around. It's really difficult to get a read from all the black and white pictures of the Norway machines but I obviously will need to tone the r/b colour down. At this point I am thinking of seeing what a "dusting" or two of a lightened grey over the camo areas might achieve.







I'm fairly happy with the pattern control with the airbrush but the camera shows the r/b colour moderately darker than what the Mk 1 eyeball sees.

Cheers,
Jan
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Posted: Thursday, January 17, 2013 - 07:16 AM UTC
Jan, is it that you want to lighten the brown? Or just to bring the colours together? My humble suggestion would be to carry on for now, and not attempt to tone down (or is it up?) the brown with a grey overspray. Why not try some kind of glaze / filter over it, which can certainly bring two different colours together by adding the same tone over the top of both of them?

I expect you say so earlier on, but is this intended to be the two colour scheme? 2/3rds Dunkelgrau RAL46 and 1/3 Dunkelbraun RAL45?
tread_geek
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Posted: Saturday, January 19, 2013 - 04:56 AM UTC
@firstcircle -


Quoted Text

Jan, is it that you want to lighten the brown? Or just to bring the colours together?


Matthew, my desire is to "meld" the two colours to the point that they appear in both the black and white photos and the box top image. From my interpretation, the former images usually suggest the vehicles being dust coated to the point of almost obscuring the camouflage. At present the grey is virtually where I want it to be but the brown is too bold. Taking your comment about a "glaze/filter" I did a test application of a diluted buff colour on the hull bottom that also had some brown splotches applied. While I haven't taken any images of the test, the result seems to be heading in the right direction as the grey remained mostly unaffected while the brown became more muted and seemed to blend to create a more pleasing and less harsh definition between the colours.


Quoted Text

I expect you say so earlier on, but is this intended to be the two colour scheme? 2/3rds Dunkelgrau RAL46 and 1/3 Dunkelbraun RAL45?


Basically yes, although my "Panzer Colors" book lists the colours as dark grey and earth brown. It further goes on to comment about the effect of dust on these colours and it's apparent lightening of both, especially the brown. I also originally thought that this scheme was hard edge but the book says that it was sprayed on to produce a "cloud effect." Hopefully I can do this over this weekend and some progress shots available. Thanks for the suggestion.

Cheers,
Jan
tread_geek
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Posted: Saturday, January 19, 2013 - 09:10 AM UTC
A quick update. I took a suggestion made to me and decided to practice with some glaze/filter/wash (whatever?) and tested the effect on some cardboard. It looked pretty promising so I tried it on the tank. I used two separate types based first on a colour called Mud-Stone and the second with Buff at the proportion of about 5% paint and 95 % thinner.







It still needs some touch ups and then I'll start the details followed by the decals and final weathering.

Cheers,
Jan
tread_geek
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Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 05:51 AM UTC
As I dreaded, this beast is going to be a monster to paint/weather with all these complex contours and fine detail. It took an entire afternoon to touch up a few areas but most importantly, start on the suspension detailing/weathering. Still a fair amount to do but I hope to have both sides finished today and start on the upper hull.

I'm basing my desired end result on this picture. (For Discussion Purposes Only)



Here's the progress at this point.





Cheers,
Jan
tread_geek
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 07:51 AM UTC
Even though it might not look like it, quite a bit was done (and hours spent) on this miniature monster. Both sides of the tank are pretty much done and the front hull decals are on and coated with clear coat.










I'm hoping to complete the rest of the hull body and top in the next day or two.

I've also started to apply the turret decals and this is turning into a marathon due to the huge size of the turret numbers. There are small detail protrusions where the numbers reside and it is taking volumes of Micro Set to try to settle this decals around. At last count I believe that I've applied at least a dozen coats of the setting solution. Sadly, the instructions call for the builder to cover these numbers with a grey just slightly lighter than the body colour. You'd think that Dragon could have provided alternate number decals for the camouflaged vehicles.



Although I see a light at the end of the tunnel, it's still somewhat faint.

Cheers,
Jan
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 08:13 AM UTC
Hi Jan,

I really like the way you highlighted the suspension can you write some things about what you did?

P.A.

tread_geek
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Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2013 - 05:25 AM UTC
PanzerAlexander - Alexander,

By suspension do you mean just the running gear (road wheels, idler, sprocket etc) or the entire lower sides? Either way, it mostly a matter of "hit or miss" until I got the look that I was trying to get based on the image on the box top and the black and white photo above.

It's rather difficult to explain but everything (hi-lights and shadows) so far was done with acrylic "decorative paints" available at most craft stores. While the brand used for the most part is Delta Ceramcoat, some Americana was also used (a brand called Accent would also work). These paints are formulated specifically to brush and mix well.

The process started with a wash or glaze or filter of thinned out black with "Glaze Base" added to make the paint quite transparent. It settled into recesses and generally muted the colours, darkened then a bit and settled darker in low areas. Under my SWMBO's direction, a mixture of Black and Titanium White was used to create a base grey colour that matched Tamiya XF-63 German Grey. Enough of this "blend" was mixed up so that there would be a supply of this colour and it was stored in an old empty paint jar. This colour was then used as a base that was progressively lightened with the white to achieve shade variations (the lightest being that applied to the rivet heads). For the shadows on the slanted flatter areas just under the tracks it was basically the darker original mixture. In most cases these colours are thinned with water to create what in decorative painting circles is called a glaze. One may have to apply several coats of these colours to achieve the desired opacity. One very nice thing about these paints is that they dry quite quickly and totally flat but it is still a fairly long and tedious process. I wish I could be more specific or SBS but this entire exercise has been a learning experience.

============================================================================================

I think that the sides are finally done and so are the tracks. I used the Alex Clark method with Tamiya Acrylics for painting the latter. After painting the tools, the upper hull and fenders were started. From looking at wartime pictures, the mufflers appear in most to be in pretty good condition, despite the fact that many modellers make them appear quite rusty. The instructions call for them to be painted a Burnt Iron which is very close to Tamiya X-10 Metallic Grey and this in turn needs to be suitably weathered to cut down on the shine.







The main turret has all its decals applied followed by a clear coat and then the first matt coating. Next up will be detailing the front further and then the rear. Thanks for looking.

Cheers,
Jan
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 05:15 AM UTC
Not only has this taken the longest time but is also the most complicated model (finishing and weathering wise) that I've ever had to deal with since my return to the hobby. I think that I can safely say that it's 99% done. From the latest set of pictures, there's a few small things or points that need a touch more refinement.

This Final finishing involved pin washes for some shadows and detailing for highlights. A very trying aspect was the painting out of the turret numbers with a lightened German Grey paint. It is quite well documented that this was done with the tanks that were fielded in Norway as they felt that the large white letters provided a convenient aiming point for enemy guns.

Note that the following pictures are magnified quick shots taken to document the finishing process and determine what might need further attention.









Comments or questions welcome!

Cheers,
Jan
PanzerAlexander
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 08:21 AM UTC
Hi Jan,

This is by far the most good looking model that you have displayed on Armorama. I like the highligts and the shadows.
There are just many things to look on this model, it has variety.

Your skills have evolved during this build and you should be happy just for that.

I'd like to see more models finished this way from you on the future.

Good job, P.A.
firstcircle
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 11:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I like the highligts and the shadows.
There are just many things to look on this model, it has variety...Good job...


I can only agree Jan, and thanks for the rather detailed explanation of the methods developed by you and SWMBO; I can honestly say that I think you have produced a unique approach, and what I have said previously about your models starting to have a look that is very individual to you and your style. I have a feeling we are seeing what could well called the "Jan Etal method". Alexander is correct that this painting method is most effective on the wheels, and I like the way that - I think, and I hope you don't mind me saying - you have decided not to hold back, but instead have gone with a quite exaggerated look. Though not drybrushing, the technique does bring to mind the Tony Greenland drybrushing method of continually altering the shade and tone of the paint being used (something that I described only recently as "painstaking").
Has to be said, I bet it's not many wives who help out with advice on modelling techniques - see what a little input from our arty crafty sisters can do!
tread_geek
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Posted: Thursday, January 31, 2013 - 05:10 AM UTC
@PanzerAlexander - PA,


Quoted Text

This is by far the most good looking model that you have displayed on Armorama. ..I'd like to see more models finished this way from you on the future.


Coming from you Alexander, I take your comments as high praise. Thanks. However, this build was a case of an experiment that turned out! To be honest, I couldn't see myself suffering through building another Neubau-Fahrzeug even though there are two other versions of it available.

@firstcircle - Matthew,


Quoted Text

I can only agree Jan, and thanks for the rather detailed explanation of the methods developed by you and SWMBO; I can honestly say that I think you have produced a unique approach, and what I have said previously about your models starting to have a look that is very individual to you and your style. I have a feeling we are seeing what could well called the "Jan Etal method".


Thanks and between you and Alexander's comments I think that I've cornered the market on blushing! However, lets just call this what it is, the January 2013 Method.


Quoted Text

Alexander is correct that this painting method is most effective on the wheels, and I like the way that - I think, and I hope you don't mind me saying - you have decided not to hold back, but instead have gone with a quite exaggerated look.


My experiences at four shows last "season" and comments and inquiries from people at those shows predisposed me to attempt to refine what I did to various degrees with my SdKfz 223, FlaK 43, PzH 2000, Horch...also not in small part due to contest judges reaction. I must have heard more than a score of people say something to the effect of "...it really stands out and draws the eye." This is also, I hope, merely a progression of the methods employed with my previous builds. With each model I try to build and refine what I learned from the previous one.


Quoted Text

Though not drybrushing, the technique does bring to mind the Tony Greenland drybrushing method of continually altering the shade and tone of the paint being used (something that I described only recently as "painstaking").


Painstaking, yes! Tedious and mind numbing, yes! Until you mentioned Tony Greenland I had never heard of him. After searching the Internet and seeing some of his work, I can see where there is a similarity to what I am trying to achieve. I'd also like to give credit to the excellent Alex Clark book Small-Scale Armour Modelling for both inspiration and insight to potential methods of finishing. As I believe that I've stated in other Blogs, I've adopted variations of some of his methods as my own.


Quoted Text

Has to be said, I bet it's not many wives who help out with advice on modelling techniques - see what a little input from our arty crafty sisters can do!


I never shy away from giving credit where it is justifiably due. She has a superior artists eye and can see things and explain methodology on how to best achieve similar results with her medium of choice, acrylics. Although she never had any interest in this hobby, she has developed a fascination with going to shows with me and examining the entries in all categories (not just small scale vehicles) and making suggestions as to what to adopt or might work for me. I have a "ringer" and am truly blessed. Oh, have I mentioned that she is also a relentless task master!

==================================================================================================

As this build was for the "Armor Between the Wars" campaign, I took some additional pictures for posting in its gallery. I think that they are somewhat better than the hasty pictures above.











The base is a slightly smaller version of the one I intend to mount the tank on. It will have a suitably appropriate ground cover applied at that time and possibly a tweak or two to the finishing.

Cheers,
Jan
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 07:02 AM UTC
I've continued to make minor alterations to the Neubau and am working on a base for it.



As with almost everything that I do, the base is an experiment. It's actually the top from an inexpensive small gift box from a "Dollar Store." It is a quite heavy cardboard and I have used DecoArt "Stucco" texture medium to coat the upper surface and sides. Before applying the medium I coated the entire base in a flat polyurethane sealer. The base colour is an acrylic called "Mudstome" by Delta Ceramcoat.

A bit more weathering and I also noted in a couple of pictures that those tubular protrusions in the turret roof are supposedly periscopes. They had vertically orientated lenses as in the picture below.



Here's a couple of images that I hope show the additional effect of the added weathering.





This is the appropriate base design and size that I chose for this project and am using a similar one for my Panther build.

Cheers,
Jan
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 04:14 PM UTC
Jan,

You have obviously been super busy! I haven't been following this or other builds too closely and all I can say is what others have already mentioned. This model build just ROCKS! I love the weathering and agree with "first circle" that this could truly be called the Jan Etal Method. I can't wait to see the base progress let alone to see you consider the tank finally 100% done. Do I suspect that all this activity is in preparation for the upcoming season 's model shows (HeritageCon)?

Regards,
AJ
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 05:41 PM UTC
@Jan,
Very nice! That vehicle was a new one on me. That last pic makes it looks very Star Warsian. Kind of a retro-futuristic sorta thing, if that makes any sense.

And I must say--way to fall back, regroup, then forge ahead in changing-up the grey paint color and switching to airbrushing the camo.

And, to concur with Matt and AJ--the weathering is truly a 'JEM' (Jan Etal Method)

Model On!

Keith
tread_geek
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Posted: Friday, February 08, 2013 - 08:58 AM UTC
@weathering_one - AJ,

How many times do I have to tell people that this was just an experiment! I have this Blog as a guide but I wonder if I could do it again! Seriously though, thanks and I'm glad that you like it. Yes, it should be done in time for HeritageCon but going will depend on the weather.

@woltersk - Keith,

Thanks for the kudo and now that you mention it, it does look sort of science fictiony. As for the painting, third times a charm? Airbrushing the camo was actually a last resort due to time constraints. All those angles and contours, especially in this scale, seemed to demand using a brush. Quite by accident I discovered an interesting "feature" of my Iwata HP-CS in that if you don't lock the needle fully up against the nozzle you can get a consistent fine spray just by pressing the air button down. Basically it's turning the dual action into a single action airbrush. As for the 'JEM' method acronym, it figures something like that would cross the mind of a USAF type! LOL

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Getting closer but not quite done with the base yet. I added some "clumps" of texture medium to the sides of the base and a sprinkling of ground cover and then proceeded to add dilute washes of various colours to the ground. Some highlights and pin washes have also been applied.







Cheers,
Jan
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Posted: Saturday, February 09, 2013 - 11:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Thanks for the kudo and now that you mention it, it does look sort of science fictiony. As for the painting, third times a charm? Airbrushing the camo was actually a last resort due to time constraints. All those angles and contours, especially in this scale, seemed to demand using a brush. Quite by accident I discovered an interesting "feature" of my Iwata HP-CS in that if you don't lock the needle fully up against the nozzle you can get a consistent fine spray just by pressing the air button down. Basically it's turning the dual action into a single action airbrush. As for the 'JEM' method acronym, it figures something like that would cross the mind of a USAF type! LOL


Jan,
Airbrushing as a last resort?! The airbrush should always be your first option! Hail Airbrush!!

I do believe all dual action airbrushes have a way of setting the needle depth for just such a purpose. Whenever you see an example of a consistent fine, thin, line, I'm sure it was done with the needle set. I know I could not do that freehand. It is also great for applying mottle: once you find the 'dot' size you want, set it and go to town. My 25+ year old Badger has a more obvious and intuitive method of setting the needle: a setscrew just in front of the trigger. Easier than with my fairly young Iwata. With the Badger I could easily turn it in and set it with my index trigger finger on the fly!



Yes, We Air Force types do love our acronyms! I hope the multiple level humor wasn't lost on anybody--we USAF types also pronounce out our acronyms as words, i.e. Digital FLight Control Computer = DFLCC = "Deeflick". So your JEM would be "a gem" of a model!

Keith
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Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2013 - 05:45 AM UTC
@woltersk - Keith,

Thanks for the expanding on my explanation on the airbrush explanation with the pictures. My main airbrush until about two years ago was a siphon feed Paache single action and it had very rudimentary (crude) adjustment capacity. It was at that time that I got the current Iwata so to me, it was a great discovery that I thought to pass along to others. There is nothing in the Iwata"s literature or in any airbrushing guide that I read to suggest this was an option. In Braille scale, certain subjects are easier to airbrush due to simpler contours. The NbFz did not fit into this category and its complexity would have made masking a nightmare, thus the original decision to try it by brush. If you knew about this "adjustment " technique, why didn't you tell me sooner!

Cheers,
Jan
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Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2013 - 06:29 AM UTC
really nicely done Jan, I agree though, most certainly your best yet! nice one!
tread_geek
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Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2013 - 12:59 PM UTC
James,

I'm happy that you like the way this (is) turning/turned out. However, these accolades from people are truly making me apprehensive about posting future builds. Seriously, I am rather pleased, yet intimidated by this build. It sort of just happened.

Cheers,
Jan
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Posted: Monday, February 25, 2013 - 05:28 AM UTC
Due to a tragic miscalculation/mistake/error the original base for the finished NbFz was destroyed beyond possible recovery. The tank was already "wired" down onto the base when the incident occurred. The only bright spot was that, thankfully, the Neubau was not damaged along with the base.

A new base has been prepared, the model affixed to it and I'm finally considering this one DONE!!!













Comments or questions graciously accepted and answered!

Cheers,
Jan
Braille
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2015 - 10:37 AM UTC
@tread_geek – Jan,

Overall this turned out super! Sorry about the mishap with the base but excellent recovery. Oh! two years ago already!!!

Jan, one of the things I will be attempting is to place my builds on a base, something new for me! Adding the build to the base conveys a sense of action and scale.

For me what is missing on your build is the transition between the base and vehicle. There is nothing to show that the vehicle belongs on that terrain. No dirt accumulation on the running gear or lower areas of the vehicle to tie it to the base! Just an observation as I will have to learn to do this with my builds.

~ Eddy
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