Hi to everyone.

This is an old kit who lay half-built into a box, abandoned on the shelf.
I don't even remember the brand, maybe an Alan kit or similar.





I just tried to avoid to build the original plastic tracks, too tiny and weak. But the whole wasn't good enuogh to receive an aftermarket set.

Then the idea came from Tank Power vol.XXI, about the t 38 tank. Some wonderful workshop picts, with one of the aufklarung tank mock up painted but untracked.

Since they were built from ordinary t 38 returned for overhaul, i wondered about the mock up directly set up with parts from differently painted and weathered tanks.

Just a weathering "exercise of style", with no claim for superdetailing.

The worn interiors, primed, received a broad wash with the True Earth DEEP RUST FILTER, to add a rough, dark, rusty appearance.

Since i will later abuse a bit of this surface,, better to protect it wth a layer of the Crystal Lock transparent fixer paint.

24 hours drying time for the paint fixer to perfectly fit.

Then a broad layer of the paint remover medium RUN OFF EFFECT is spread over the whole interiors.
To facilitate the following chipping process, a bit of RUN OFF is added to the white acryl interiors color, then airbrushed.

as the paint dries, chipping, scruffing (or scraping, as i named it...)

is made with different water-wet brushes

Looks good! Nice effect on the seats.
J

Hi Jerry, thank you.

The new built structure is given a fresh metal apparel.

First a sprayed layer of STEEL PLATE paint/filter on a dark grey base




then corners are highlighted with some ALU EFFECT paint/filter

ALU EFFECT is also useful as a wash, over a dark grey paint, to achieve a fresh new wheel

The wheel will later be blended with the rest, by washes.

This is the model, at the end of painting process.

The brand new superstructure was made of primed worn plates, then bolted in place.

To achieve the worn effect, i sprayed RED OXIDE PRIMER, which is a "chippable paint :
-just paint it,
-as dry remove it on corners with a wet brush
- then rinse under a waterflow, and paint will definitely adhere to surface

I did something similar, recently. I laid down a coat of steel, prior to my normal base coat. Using the salt method, I built up to my top coat and, then, proceeded to remove the salt. Yours looks much better. I may have to try this method. What's you opinion of the True Earth line?

Hi Matt,

easier, faster, clean.
This is True Earth policy.

Although i must admit mine is not a neutral opinion...

Another wheel finish :
a wash of DEEP RUST BASE over a medium grey base, to simulate an old rust that exudes from the color

now it's time to wear the old hull.

a heavy wash of PAINT FADING 2 over some plates




the same filter broadly brushed between mudguard reinforcements




and in an upward motion over the front plate

To add some subtle difference, inclined plates are thinly moisted with water, then softly streaked with a combination of PAINT FADING 1 & 2

on lower hull, streaked fading with TRANSPARENT FILTERS can be done both placing filter direcly into airbrush




or with a brush, lightly moisting the surface with a minimal quantity of water for a feathered effect

End of light and fading phase

now it's time for dark filters and washes

Washes with transparent filters are made moisting first with a good amount of water, then simply spreading and melting the filter on the wet object

here i use a grey brown filter, named NEUTRAL FILTER, who well adapts to the warm sand color

being waterbased, result is sharp and fast drying

Wash over a large flat surface, as a ribbed mudguard.

I've done as for the wheel, then softly airbrushed water to let the filter perfectly flow into corners and around ribs.





You can also see a feathered and semi-transparent shadow on the lower part of sloped plates.

It was again made with NEUTRAL FILTER, but airbrushed

Looks brilliant. Lots to learn here for sure. Waiting to see more.

Thanks Christopher !

I like to add some difference again : mudguard supports receceive a metallic wash with True Earth STEEL PLATE

For smoother effect, moist first with h20 then add the filter.

Happy new year to everyone !

Let's go on.
Plenty of rust is now added with washes of SPREAD RUST, again on h20 moisted surfaces, to let the filter distemper and achieve a thinely pointed, irregular pattern. This is the main feature of STRUCTURED FILTERS like this one.

Thin and dark rust chipping is now added with the acrylic micropaint DEEP RUST CHIPPING and a thin brush. The main feature of this paint is to be really folowy and doesn't dry on 00 and 000 brushes.

What you also see is the smoothness of the previous selective washes made with the transparent filter STEEL PLATE DARK on hinges and rivets