Hosted by Darren Baker
Panzer IV E
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Friday, November 30, 2012 - 11:04 AM UTC
As promised, here are some progress shots of my Panzer IV E. I still have a lot of weathering to do. I have not finished the muffler, because I am contemplating whether or not it would rust in Africa. I'll finish the running gear, tomorrow. I have a few tools and equipment to add. The tracks I'm saving for Sunday and, then decals and more weathering.
MadModeler
Joined: July 26, 2012
KitMaker: 454 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Friday, November 30, 2012 - 12:21 PM UTC
It does rain in a desert. And most of North Africa fighting was near/towards the Sea. Just food for thought.
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Friday, November 30, 2012 - 09:25 PM UTC
The rusting of mufflers was temperature driven.
David
David
BillGorm
Joined: November 02, 2009
KitMaker: 609 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Friday, November 30, 2012 - 11:57 PM UTC
Hi Matt - Nice work. Is this the Dragon kit? Because I haven't seen very many build logs of them.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 01:15 AM UTC
Bill: This is the Dragon kit. A very impressive kit at that. The suspension articulates, allowing you to adjust the angle of the road wheels after assembly.
Tom&David: I know from my house burning down that salt water combined with heat produce lots of rust.
Tom&David: I know from my house burning down that salt water combined with heat produce lots of rust.
GregCloseCombat
Joined: June 30, 2008
KitMaker: 2,408 posts
Armorama: 2,394 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 08:13 AM UTC
Hi Matt, Nice to see you at work. I think it's looking like a nice DAK tank! I'm not sure but check if the turret coaxial MG supposed to stick out that far? Keep up the nice work on it 
ericadeane
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 08:43 AM UTC
I agree about the too lengthy coax MG. Also I noticed that your lifting hooks at the front corners of your hull sides are upside down.
When you showed paint wear, you showed paint worn off the sides of the turret above the armored visors but not the turret splash ring,which would have had tankers' boots on it constantly. Make sure you don't just chip paint to chip paint. It needs to be done to logical areas of wear and contact by crew hands, boots, etc.
Keep up the good work
When you showed paint wear, you showed paint worn off the sides of the turret above the armored visors but not the turret splash ring,which would have had tankers' boots on it constantly. Make sure you don't just chip paint to chip paint. It needs to be done to logical areas of wear and contact by crew hands, boots, etc.
Keep up the good work
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 10:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I agree about the too lengthy coax MG. Also I noticed that your lifting hooks at the front corners of your hull sides are upside down.
When you showed paint wear, you showed paint worn off the sides of the turret above the armored visors but not the turret splash ring,which would have had tankers' boots on it constantly. Make sure you don't just chip paint to chip paint. It needs to be done to logical areas of wear and contact by crew hands, boots, etc.
Keep up the good work
I would never have noticed.
I'll retract the coax a few millimeters.
Nikiforos
Joined: November 17, 2012
KitMaker: 7 posts
Armorama: 7 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 08:46 AM UTC
Nice built Matt but my personal opinion is that you should use panzergrey for chipping since all these early IVs came to Africa in this color and they were repainted there with sand.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 08:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice built Matt but my personal opinion is that you should use panzergrey for chipping since all these early IVs came to Africa in this color and they were repainted there with sand.
Be that as it may, I'm not about to repaint the entire kit. Most builds I see use red oxide as the coat directly under the tan. Besides this, the grey would likely have chipped of as well.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 12:54 PM UTC
Solution for Panzer grey base coat. I just brushed some on. Did the splash rail with Tamiya German Grey and Hull Red. Worked on the tracks for most of the day. I have an issue with tracks for the Pz. IV. Most people go with iron, but I have a photo of an unpainted link and it is steel. I also fixed the lift hooks and retracted to coax mg. Hopefully, I will be able to finish the running gear, tomorrow. I really wanted to keep this an oob build, but I also really have a problem with pe chain. I'm currently searching for my supply. No clue where it has wandered off to.
The plan: With an operational suspension, I will have it traversing a destroyed Sherman turret. I happen to have one of these in my spares bin.
BTW: If anyone wants the interior for a Pz. IV turret, give me your address and have a very merry Christmas.
The plan: With an operational suspension, I will have it traversing a destroyed Sherman turret. I happen to have one of these in my spares bin.
BTW: If anyone wants the interior for a Pz. IV turret, give me your address and have a very merry Christmas.
panzerbob01
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 04:37 PM UTC
Matt N.;
NICE E! It's coming along quite well, and is certainly going to look the part.
I do have a comment or 2 and a question...
1) I would strongly second, third, or nth the bit on dunkelgrau underneath for these earlier DAK panzers - that said, of course I wouldn't do a repaint, either! Touching in on your chips with some d-g would work wonders, and yes, I agree that there would be some that chip thru to the primer red beneath. But these would likely have a d-g ring, or so I would expect? Looks like you hit some with the d-g, and I'd encourage as many more as you can take!
2) About the Pz IV tracks... best of my knowledge, most or all were made of some alloy, not straight cast-iron nor straight cast-steel? Also, at the factory, they apparently were often primered (red) and then enameled black - or so many have asserted. Personally, I start with deep rusty brown or sometimes black followed by dark brown washes - but generally all of mine end up heavily dusted and dirt-stained (flat earth) followed by lighter pigment (OK, chalk) and lastly some pencil "lead" on the bearing / friction surfaces. Unless a track was washed or run thru a lot of water, it would generally never look like a newer black one, I don't think! I'll of course be watching for how you address this issue - I know it will look good!
And a question: I see that those flaps are raised over the air inlets... why? Almost only ever seen in winter in colder places, like Russia. And even in winter, only some would be raised in almost every case- very seldom have I seen any pics of IV with all raised! Is this somehow supposed to be a cold tank? Just asking!
Keep on tanking!
Bob
NICE E! It's coming along quite well, and is certainly going to look the part.
I do have a comment or 2 and a question...
1) I would strongly second, third, or nth the bit on dunkelgrau underneath for these earlier DAK panzers - that said, of course I wouldn't do a repaint, either! Touching in on your chips with some d-g would work wonders, and yes, I agree that there would be some that chip thru to the primer red beneath. But these would likely have a d-g ring, or so I would expect? Looks like you hit some with the d-g, and I'd encourage as many more as you can take!
2) About the Pz IV tracks... best of my knowledge, most or all were made of some alloy, not straight cast-iron nor straight cast-steel? Also, at the factory, they apparently were often primered (red) and then enameled black - or so many have asserted. Personally, I start with deep rusty brown or sometimes black followed by dark brown washes - but generally all of mine end up heavily dusted and dirt-stained (flat earth) followed by lighter pigment (OK, chalk) and lastly some pencil "lead" on the bearing / friction surfaces. Unless a track was washed or run thru a lot of water, it would generally never look like a newer black one, I don't think! I'll of course be watching for how you address this issue - I know it will look good!
And a question: I see that those flaps are raised over the air inlets... why? Almost only ever seen in winter in colder places, like Russia. And even in winter, only some would be raised in almost every case- very seldom have I seen any pics of IV with all raised! Is this somehow supposed to be a cold tank? Just asking!
Keep on tanking!
Bob
AFVFan
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 05:20 PM UTC
Getting better all the time Matt. To maybe solve your chain problem, I've found the local Michael's (crafts store) has a nice selection of chain in their necklace section. It's inexpensive, and a bit of "Blacken It" will kill the shiney finish.
Bob brings up a point with the air vent flaps. Unless the tank is hunkering down somewhere to avoid a sandstorm, I imagine those flaps would be wide open to allow as much cooling air as possible to get to the engine/radiator.
Bob brings up a point with the air vent flaps. Unless the tank is hunkering down somewhere to avoid a sandstorm, I imagine those flaps would be wide open to allow as much cooling air as possible to get to the engine/radiator.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 12:56 AM UTC
Bob&Bob: The vents are up to offer some protection from a sandstorm, hence the heavy chipping. I will continue to add more chipping. Thanks for the advice on the tracks. Black with a little rust it is. I plan on using Tamiya NATO brown as a base for the tracks. I'll go over all of them with rust, then add a filter and some sand pigment.
panzerbob01
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 02:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Bob&Bob: The vents are up to offer some protection from a sandstorm, hence the heavy chipping. I will continue to add more chipping. Thanks for the advice on the tracks. Black with a little rust it is. I plan on using Tamiya NATO brown as a base for the tracks. I'll go over all of them with rust, then add a filter and some sand pigment.
Matt;
OK.... flaps up to cut out some sand. Hiding from a sand-storm sounds quite plausible! So, if this is a dio or vign... show a sand storm in place or just past? Maybe parked with some blown sand up into the wheels on one side, tarps or rags stuffed into some holes and vents, a bag over any MG (there's plenty of pics to address that), maybe some mini-drifts of sand and dust on the fenders, etc.?
A crew member with googles on and a rag over his face would really convey this scenario!
I would keep in mind that a crew would probably have been pretty careful to NOT leave those things closed if rolling or getting ready to move - that would cause an near-instant boil-over!
Just a suggestion!
Bob
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 02:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextBob&Bob: The vents are up to offer some protection from a sandstorm, hence the heavy chipping. I will continue to add more chipping. Thanks for the advice on the tracks. Black with a little rust it is. I plan on using Tamiya NATO brown as a base for the tracks. I'll go over all of them with rust, then add a filter and some sand pigment.
Matt;
OK.... flaps up to cut out some sand. Hiding from a sand-storm sounds quite plausible! So, if this is a dio or vign... show a sand storm in place or just past? Maybe parked with some blown sand up into the wheels on one side, tarps or rags stuffed into some holes and vents, a bag over any MG (there's plenty of pics to address that), maybe some mini-drifts of sand and dust on the fenders, etc.?
A crew member with googles on and a rag over his face would really convey this scenario!
I would keep in mind that a crew would probably have been pretty careful to NOT leave those things closed if rolling or getting ready to move - that would cause an near-instant boil-over!
Just a suggestion!
Bob
Going with the sand storm having just passed. I will have the crew out of the tank discussing operations with an officer.
IrishGreek
Joined: October 17, 2010
KitMaker: 627 posts
Armorama: 571 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 02:53 AM UTC
Matt,
Nice work so far. I am feeling a bit dumb, so sorry for the stupid question, but what 'vents'? I am just getting into German armor and not sure what you are talking about? On the engine deck, or that popup on the turret top???
Thanks for clearing this up for me? Sorry again for the highjack.
John
Nice work so far. I am feeling a bit dumb, so sorry for the stupid question, but what 'vents'? I am just getting into German armor and not sure what you are talking about? On the engine deck, or that popup on the turret top???
Thanks for clearing this up for me? Sorry again for the highjack.
John
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 04:44 AM UTC
The vents in question are located on the rear third of the fenders. They fold up to cover the vertical vents on the side of the tank.
IrishGreek
Joined: October 17, 2010
KitMaker: 627 posts
Armorama: 571 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 04:55 AM UTC
Got it. Thanks Matt.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 12:55 PM UTC
Applied the decals. Have a little trimming to do and redefine the weathering.
MadModeler
Joined: July 26, 2012
KitMaker: 454 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 02:26 AM UTC
Would the rust go thru the turret number? Just an idea. And the Panzer Grey looks pretty good of her. Keep up the good work.
Tiger_213
Joined: August 10, 2012
KitMaker: 1,510 posts
Armorama: 1,443 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 02:30 AM UTC
I doubt it Tom. Primer, base color, the base color of the tactical number AND the inner color. That's a lot of paint to chip off. It's possible but pretty unlikely.
Looking forward to seeing the finished build.
Looking forward to seeing the finished build.
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 03:42 AM UTC
Yeah, shipping should be done AFTER the decals.
AFVFan
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 02:21 PM UTC
The easiest scenario would be the numbers were freshly painted over the chipped areas. That would explain the sharp cutoff between them and the chipped spots.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 02:37 PM UTC
I have painted the chips back over the numbers. I'll post some more photos, tomorrow. Half of the road wheels are on. I need to assemble the tracks and add a little more weathering. Consequently, I'm looking at using these figures.
 |
WEB HOSTING BY
Copyright ©2021 Armorama and Kitmaker Network, a subsidiary of Silver Star Enterprises
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.