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First ever build, What I learned.
travh20
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California, United States
Joined: December 26, 2012
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 9 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 01:10 PM UTC
Okay, I will try this for the third time! My last two got lost in the ether somehow!

This is my first time building a 1/35 model, and first time airbrushing as well. I learned a lot during the process. Here are a few things I learned, and a few of the many questions that arose during the build.

The build:

The model is a Tamiya Panther, from the 1960's?!?!? Anyway, it was pretty simple to put together, mostly.
The wheels...the instructions say to put the wheels on first, and not glue them. I am guessing it is so you can push the tank around like a toy when it is done? I did it the way they said, and I wish I didn't! It was a pain to get the black rubber painted when the wheels kept spinning. I noticed a lot of guys assemble and paint the wheels and then put them on LAST, now I know why. The only thing with doing it that way is that I can not get the camo on the tank to line up with the camo on the wheels how I would like. I am sure there is a way!

The Tracks....the old "rubber band" type. They were easy enough to paint, but getting them on was frustrating. First I tried to wrap them around the wheels then melt them together, didn't work to well. The second track I did I melted together first then stretched them over the wheels. It worked better, but was afraid I was about to break something off!

The tow cable...was a piece of plastic. I was supposed to heat it up in water and bend it to fit. The first one just snapped in half, guess I didn't heat it up enough. The second one sort of worked, but later fell off the tank and broke. All that is left is a paint line on the tank where it was I noticed a lot of guys use real steel cable, although very thin, on their tanks. That looks like it works. Not sure if this is guitar string or something?

Painting/weathering:

basecoat....sprayed it black, then Tamiya dark yellow out of their spray can. I noticed the dark yellow out of the spray can is a little different then the dark yellow out of their paint pot. I hit it with another spray out of the airgun with more dark yellow. The black helped to shade everything, and the dark yellow had no problem spraying over it. I know in the past hand painting yellow over black on my miniatures was nearly impossible, but spraying it with an airbrush works great!

Camo.....I used Tamiya olive green and red-brown. I wish I would have kept the lines a little close together, and made more of them. I think there may be to much of the dark yellow showing through. Next time I will also reduce the air pressure for the camo. I had it at 20, same as the base coat, and I thing the lines are to strong. I would like them to be a little softer on the edges. I think reducing the air pressure will help this.

Wash....I used black and redish-brown oil paints, mixed with mineral spirits, as was the technique I found online. I brushed it on over the whole model. I need to mix it better, I was getting little black dots all over the model, black dots of oil paint. I also found out about 3 hous later that it would be good to wipe away the excess wash with a paper towel or something. Even after 3 hours I was able to do this, as the oil paint was still wet! I am not sure if covering the whole model is the way to go however. Maybe I should just put the wash in the areas it is needed with a smaller brush?

weathering..... the rust went on okay on the exhaust and the spare tracks, not so good on the chipped areas. I tried to put dry dust on the wheels,a s I did not want heavy mud, but it looks like most of the dust came off when I went to spray it over with the matte varnish. How do I keep the dry dust weathering pigment on the wheels?

Also, it still looks shiny to me, even after hitting it with a coat of dullcote, any ideas how to get rid of the shiny?

Anyway, it was a lot of fun to build and paint, and look forward to doing another one. Already have a Stug inbound from amazon!





ninjrk
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Alabama, United States
Joined: January 26, 2006
KitMaker: 1,381 posts
Armorama: 1,347 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 01:20 PM UTC
I find misting the model with a very heavily thinned (like 80-90% thinner) Tamiya deck tan with some of their clear flat paste mixed in does wonders. Also makes it look nice and slightly dusty. Looks darned good for a first build.

Matt
didgeboy
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Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 01:21 PM UTC
If you wanted a dusty look for this, you can go back over it with your pigment powders or use "pastel" chalks. These are artist "hard" chalks (not the soft oil based ones). Grind these off the stick with your blade and then apply with your brush. I usually make several passes and they will stay in place if you tap them in with your brush. This will also take down some of that satin quality you were talking about.

Looks like a nice build and you should be please. Cheers.
travh20
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California, United States
Joined: December 26, 2012
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 9 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 01:22 PM UTC
Awesome, thanks! What is this clear flat paste that you speak of? How do you mix it into the airbrush? Do you think desert yellow would work in place of deck tan?
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 01:30 PM UTC
So long as you learned something, and had fun(this is key); the build is great! Very good for a first! My early airbrush results were pretty horrible. Did you gloss coat the kit, before giving it an oil wash? Oils take a rather long time to dry. It's best to leave them overnight or longer. I have not seen many tanks that line up the camo on the hull with that on the wheels. After it moved, the camo would likely never line up again. Different lines of the "same" color of paint will be lighter or darker. For instance, Model Master enamels are darker than their acrylic line. The spray cans are closer to the enamel line. I found this out using their OD and Sandgelb paints. Your best bet is to buy an extra jar or two of the paint line you intend to use. Right now, I have four bottles of Tamiya German Gray acrylic. This is a base coat for almost all of my WWII German armor builds. You are correct about the road wheels and tow cable. For the tow cable, you can either twist some thing wire together or use picture hanging wire of the appropriate size. To fix pigments, IPA rubbing alcohol seems to be universal. Give the pigments a quick spray at very low pressure and let them set for a couple of hours. Alternatively, you can hand brush them on by dipping your brush in IPA; then into the pigment. The more IPA, the lighter the pigment will apply. When one of my models is too "shiny", I decant some Krylon clear flat and apply it with my airbrush. You don't need to thin it. All of this is just my opinion and preference. There are many different techniques for all that you have listed.
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