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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Is there no getting away from the airbrush?
Little_Yoshi
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 02:39 AM UTC
So, I am returning after 30'ish years and am sort of old school in that I like the brush. Seems like all of the posts I read indicate that an airbrush is a must to accomplish all the effects a modeler desires. In terms of WWII Armor & Air (no figures just yet), is this true or can I get away with just a brush, good paint & good technique?

In addition, what paint would you suggest? I head Vallejo alot, but not sure about acrylics or enamel.

Thanks in advance,
Little Yoshi
dcook11
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 02:56 AM UTC
I too am getting back into modelling after about 30 years. Actually I built an Arizona about 20 years ago. IMHO I don't think hand brushing can compare to the finish you can get with an air brush.Let's see what others say.
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 02:58 AM UTC
I prefer to use an airbrush. However, there are some people that have excellent results without one. Vallejo is one of the best paints, because it has good results with either an airbrush or regular brush. If you are going with an airbrush, Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics are best. I find it much easier to use an airbrush as you don't have to spend 30 minutes painting the base coat.
Effects that you get with an airbush, I believe are superior. You can not achieve a filter, without one. Also, it is easier to apply clear and flat coats. These are essential for washes and decals.
A regular brush can't be ignored. There are just some details that require it. Of course, dry brushing is one of these. Gauges also require its use. Really, any small detail. I have several brushes I use for these things.
I suppose it comes down to what you are comfortable with.
Chilihead
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 03:13 AM UTC
It's all good! When hand painting put it on thin and build it up in layers; same philosophy with an airbrush; it's better to put the paint on in thin coats and I use around 40psi.

Have a great day!

Mrosko
RAM-G
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 03:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

In terms of WWII Armor & Air (no figures just yet), is this true or can I get away with just a brush, good paint & good technique?



google Paul Coudeyrette for an example what is possible with brush painting
didgeboy
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 03:33 AM UTC
Ken;
Here is my two cents. My brother hand painted all of his models when he was a kid and while he is no Rembrandt, he was able to do some beautiful paint jobs, even camo on aircraft. I have found that I had no talent for brushing by hand and that the airbrush allows me to create a better finish, but I still have lots to learn.

I think the point that I would make, and that Chris was making too, is that subtlety is the best method for either medium. If you can achieve what you want by hand then by all means go for it (and teach us the secrets too!). But if you want to delve into it then there are some great used airbrushes on eBay that can get you started, or ask around some guys have some they are looking to get rid of. Cheers.
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 05:26 AM UTC
I've seen some amazing hand brush aircraft paint schemes over the years. The secret, if you want to call it that, is that you paint in thin layers. Once each layer is completely dry, you need to polish it with 600,800,1,200 sand paper, so it's smooth to the point where you removed all traces of brush strokes, yet didn't polish through the paint to the plastic surface. Each layer of paint must be dealt with this way.

It takes so much longer to produce a professional looking hand paint job this way, then what you can achieve in a single air brush session.

There are also limitations to hand brushing camo paint schemes. It's nearly impossible to reproduce a feathered edge constantly.

Given the option, you're really better off getting a quality air brush and compressor.
Joel
Tiger_213
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 05:31 AM UTC
This was brush painted;

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/199017&ord=&page=1

Gary even added a small SBS, on page three I think, of how to brush paint.
DaveCox
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 05:41 AM UTC
I've never owned an airbrush, so from 1/72 tanks to 1/12 scale cars everything is brush painted. Good artists sable brushes, smooth brushstrokes and the right paint for the job = a good finish!

I use Tamiya or revell acrylics for most work, with Humbrol or Revell enamels for car bodies.

My gallery:
https://gallery.kitmaker.net/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/1920
tankglasgow
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 05:52 AM UTC
I'm an ageing returnee to this hobby and took the plunge with a cheapo AB and compressor and love it. It's great fun to use, for that reason alone I would recomend you give it a try.
DaveCox
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 06:10 AM UTC
Another question to ask before choosing brush or airbrush - where will you use it?

I live in a flat (apartment I think in the US) and work on the dining table - an airbrush, even if I wanted one, would be immediate divorce! I reckon that for most jobs an airbrush is just too much hassle - all that stripping and cleaning. Swishing a brush around in a jar of the appropriate thinners and a wash in water and detergent once a week to condition the hairs takes a couple of minutes at the most!
Little_Yoshi
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 06:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Another question to ask before choosing brush or airbrush - where will you use it?

I live in a flat (apartment I think in the US) and work on the dining table - an airbrush, even if I wanted one, would be immediate divorce! I reckon that for most jobs an airbrush is just too much hassle - all that stripping and cleaning. Swishing a brush around in a jar of the appropriate thinners and a wash in water and detergent once a week to condition the hairs takes a couple of minutes at the most!



First, thanks for all of your comments... Much appreciated!

It's not so much "where", but "when". I have a few hobbies that spread my time thinly when not doing things with the family. Plus, the set-up and cleaning sort of turns me off. Heck, if it wasn't for kegging, the whole bottling aspect of brewing home made beer would have turned me off completely.

I am not opposed to getting one when I have adequate time to spend with one, but for now, if I can do it with a brush, I'd love to try and tackle that beast!
firstcircle
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 09:23 AM UTC
Ken, enamels are good with a paint brush, and some acrylics are; paradoxically Vallejo Air is good for hand painting, but on no accounts try to use Tamiya acrylics with a brush unless you have some acrylic paint retarder, as it will dry too fast and go all streaky.

I would add that key to painting with a brush, especially regarding what has been said about building up thin layers, is to use a spray / aerosol primer on the bare plastic, then apply the hand brushed paint on that. Use the cheapest acrylic auto primer you find in your auto spares shop. You'll probably find you can easily get white, mid-grey, black and red oxide, so can use whatever is the most suitable for your final colour scheme.

You should find that you can apply thinned paint very easily to the nice smooth matt base surface you'll get with the primer, and if using white or grey particularly, it will be like you're gradually tinting the primer towards the colour you want.
imatanker
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 09:41 AM UTC
Ken...As Matt said,brush painting with Tamiya can be hard,but it can be done.I did these 2 builds hand brushing Tamiya
1/72nd Jagd

And 1/48th Autoblinda

So you see it can be done.I have noticed that the larger the scale the tougher it is to do well.I have not tried it on a 1/35th build yet,but I have an Abrams in the stash that I might try it on.Jeff T.
DaveCox
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 10:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

but on no accounts try to use Tamiya acrylics with a brush unless you have some acrylic paint retarder, as it will dry too fast and go all streaky.



Really? I do it all the time, including a 1/24 double-decker bus interior!
firstcircle
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 11:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Really? I do it all the time, including a 1/24 double-decker bus interior!



Masochist! Not sure why anyone would choose to do that...
imatanker
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 11:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Really? I do it all the time, including a 1/24 double-decker bus interior!



Masochist! Not sure why anyone would choose to do that...



You know what they say,If you're not living on the edge,you're taking up too much space
panzerbob01
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Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 02:47 PM UTC
Yoshi;

I, too am an old returnee - 1960 - 75, and 2009 on. I did lots of sometimes neat and OK-looking airplanes back when with the brush. Now, I am almost always with the AB - but I now do almost only armor and most of my paint-schemes take advantage of the AB. I DO, however, pick up the brush for all the details and for those "hard-edged" camo schemes where the brush is King.

It's all what you WANT to do. IF you want to "change horses" (as I did) and move into "new" paint-schemes which may be best done with an air-brush, why, try it out! IF you are an old brush fan and comfortable with what you get and you get to do the vehicles and schemes you like, why change?

It is all GOOD and you have lots of choice and opportunity!

Bob
imatanker
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Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 01:10 AM UTC
Bob makes a very good point. In the end the only person you need to please is yourself. Build how you like,like how you build. Jeff T.
lespauljames
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Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 02:23 AM UTC
if you take your time, and perfect a technique, even tamiya acrylics can brushpaint well (Apart form white. thats just a Pain..)
I brushpaint over a rattlecan primer.
this is my latest brushpainted.

First Go at a Vallejo basecoat, i usually base with tamiya for durability.
for the painting io use a wide soft brush. and medium-thin paint.


all of these have been brush painted



SdAufKla
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Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 02:23 AM UTC
"Is there no getting away from the airbrush?"

I would ask, "Why would you want to?"

To be sure, you can get good results from brush painting with the right techniques and time, but why would you want to when you can get better results from using an airbrush, better, smoother and more complete coverage with less paint in less time. An airbrush gives you the ability to subtly blend colors, add shadows and highlights, create soft-edge camouflage, apply filters and glazes, etc, all while using less paint, not hiding details, and no risk of brush strokes or marks.

I think the question is really one of using the right tool for the right job. Sure, sometimes using an expedient or alternate tool is the only option, but for jobs that you do repetitively (like painting models), investing the money to purchase the right tool and then the time in learning how to use it effectively just makes sense.

Is there some expense to buying an airbrush. Yes. but then costs and availability have dropped to the point where even very good airbrushes are less expensive than many kits, and the same is true for air compressors. Here in the US, you can shop around at Northern Tool or Harbor Freight and pick-up a combo AB-compressor set comparable to the Badger 200 for about the retail cost of Tamiya's new M1 Abram with Rino Plow.

Is there a learning curve that must be mastered to use an airbrush - of course - but it's not black magic or some arcane alchemy. Everyday modelers of all skill levels use airbrushes all the time.

Sometimes a hand-brush is the right tool, but for most basic finish applications and many other finishing jobs, an airbrush is clearly the superior tool to use.

Can you get away from the airbrush, certainly, but if you have the option, why would you want to?

My .02...
Little_Yoshi
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Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 02:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...Here in the US, you can shop around at Northern Tool or Harbor Freight and pick-up a combo AB-compressor set comparable to the Badger 200 for about the retail cost of Tamiya's new M1 Abram with Rino Plow...



Any suggestions?
Little_Yoshi
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Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 02:41 AM UTC
I am quite impressed by the brush work displayed here and it gives me hope... As a little background, I used to carve waterfowl and applying wash after wash with brushes never bothered me. Quite relaxing actually.

Again, not opposed to the air brush, but the rhetorical question I ask myself is; "Do I need it?"
didgeboy
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Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 03:19 AM UTC
I think then, ken, that you are really the only one qualified to answer that question, not that it needs an answer,
Little_Yoshi
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Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 03:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I think then, ken, that you are really the only one qualified to answer that question, not that it needs an answer,



Very true! I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Great discussion though and thanks for all the feedback.
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