Hey all, can you folks that use AK Interactive washes and effects give me a run down on things, I recently got back into modeling and have never weathered a model. What color wash should be used with a Merdc pattern. Other than the washes and effects what items would I need, ie thinner white spirit. Thanks

Steven

The NATO effects set should cover all your basis. AK also makes very good pigments that you might want to give a try. You can use their high quality White Spirit for blending and clean up, or you can use mineral spirits from a brand like Klean Strip. I have not noticed any negative effects of using Hardware store mineral spirits, but for your first go around, you might want to us the pricey stuff so you don't have any surprises. AK is actually going through a bit of a blood feud with Mig Jimenez and Fernando Vallejo which is resulting in their paint supplier from producing paint under the AK name (according to rumor). Only reason I say this is that it might mean you might have a hard time finding your stuff. Hope that helps!

I had read that I should do some sort of gloss coat over the acrylics that I use for the base and pattern, if so after I weather would I want to go back over all of it with some sort of flat coat?

I usually gloss coat my models before decals. Then seal them in with satin varnish from Vallejo. It is glossy enough to accommodate washes and blending easily bit flat enough not to give an obnoxious shine. Also, once you have weathered your vehicle with streaks, washes, pigments, etc, the shine will be gone. It is not recommended that you seal all your weathering with a flat coat when you are done. It will really dull out your work.

Thanks so much for the quick responses.

The reason that you would want to use a gloss coat is so that the wash will flow. Say that you have a panel line that you want to make more visible by applying a wash to it. If you apply it over a flat coat the wash will stop where you put it. With a gloss coat the wash will be "sucked" into the panel line filling it so that you don’t have to fill part of the panel line yourself. Another reason for using a gloss coat is that cleanup is easier. Using wash over a flat coat often cause it to stick permanently.

When I weather my models I first apply a gloss coat which I apply the wash over. I then seal the job with some satin clear and do streaking and other weathering jobs. I think a satin coat makes appropriate amounts of the weathering stay giving it a used but not abused look.

Lastly i agree that the NATO set is a good one to start with as it can be used on almost any camo/color. I would also recommend a brown wash as it gives the vehicle that oily look.



Jakob

I am looking at Vallejo Acrylics and I see a gloss medium and gloss varnish or do you guys have a suggestion. I hate to seem such a noob but I am. Until the last month I had not touched a model kit since I was around 10 and I will be thirty in two months so other than putting them together and slapping some paint on them I have not a clue.

use the gloss varnish to seal up the paint and gloss medium for blending two different colors

Hey Steven.
Future floor finish is what most people use. One big bottle lasts for a long time.
Don't worry about being a noob, ask your questions and build.
These guys here love building and no one has a problem helping each other out.
Check out this thread here.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/140764&page=1

I second the use of future floor acrylic. I use it all the time and it works great. They sell it at Shop Rite, and wal mart, so you will probably be able to get it at any big chain store like that. I think it is called Johnson's shine or something like that.

One thing I want to stress is that washes will in fact flow over a satin surface as well, not just a glossy one. Washes do not flow very easily on matte/ flat surfaces. You of course are more than welcome to use either one you want, I just want to let you know what what some of your options are

I would NOT recommend that you use the AK system over a gloss finish. The AK website suggests that the effects and washes be applied over a satin coat rather than a gloss coat and my personal experience backs this up. When applying the washes over gloss, they will not adhere properly no matter how long you allow them to dry. Upon application of the next stage of weathering, the previous layer will lift. However, I did not have this problem when applying them over a satin coat...it allows just enough texture for the enamel finish to set up and dry and it will not lift when the next layer is put on.

There is no advantage to applying the AK products to a glossy surface because unlike oils, they do not need the smooth surface to flow properly. My take on this is that they are not really designed for traditional "pin washing" but instead are intended to be applied in streaks and spots and removed and blended from unwanted areas with white spirit.

Lastly, if you have a Blick store or art store nearby, you should be able to pick up a high quality white spirit at a slightly more reasonable price than AK's own brand.

Best of luck with your project.

When it comes to weathering powders, I am looking at tamyia' s compact type, what should I use to seal them in with, one review I read said to use matte coat.

I have to 110% back up what Don said about NOT using the AK products over a gloss coat, and what has been said about NOT using a final flat coat. I started using the AK stuff that way and was disappointed by the results. I felt like I wasted a ton of money on the AK stuff because I wasn't getting the results like I'd seen in photos posted here. On the advice of Don and others on this site, I switched to using a satin finish and WOW...what a difference! The AK enamels REALLY work best on a satin/semi-gloss surface. Since I've taken using full-on gloss coats out of the equation, my armor models have come out exactly the way I want them to and the AK products give the results that I see others have been getting. It actually seemed "un-natural" to be putting a gloss on a tank anyway!

If I have to use decals, I only use a spot application of gloss (I use Future) where the decals are going to be placed. Once the decals are on and dry, I'll put another spot application of Future to seal them in...then the full monty overcoat of the clear satin.

I too was out of the hobby for many years, and built my first tank in 20+ years this past spring. It was more than a bit bewildering how techniques and products had evolved during my time away from the hobby.

One thing I've discovered is that practicing on an old model you don't care about anymore is the best way to learn and experiment with your technique. I learned the hard way that a $40 kit is not what you should use to try a new technique for the first time. Seems like common sense, but when you get jazzed up about trying something new and interesting, common sense often takes a vacation. Then you have to buy a new kit.

Welcome back to the hobby, and best of luck with your project(s)!

Well Stated Don and Bill.