Hi Guys,
Can anyone please advise on how this should be used, I know the instructions say to wash the tracks in warm soapy water & then dry & apply the blacken it.
But I thought I have also read that doing this cause's the blacken it to not work properly??
Merry Christmas & thanks to all
Cheers Mike
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Fruil tracks & Blacken it
Tanksami
Victoria, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2011
KitMaker: 1,314 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Joined: August 06, 2011
KitMaker: 1,314 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 - 09:09 AM UTC
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 04:33 AM UTC
Wash your Friuls in anything from soapy water to alcohol; just make sure they are completely dry before using Blacken-it. Any residual soapy bubbles will prevent the Blacken-it reaction at that point and leave it bare metal. Likewise, when soaking the tracks in Blacken-it, be sure to agitate the soaking container periodically, as air bubbles trapped in nooks and crannies will also prevent proper reaction. Keep an eye on the reaction's progress; for a while nothing seems to happen, and then reaction comes quickly. Results are haphazard with gray to dark gray, mottled gray, and sometimes a dark brownish color will result. If you get a white powdery residue, no problem, it will easily brush off.
Blackstoat
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 05:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Wash your Friuls in anything from soapy water to alcohol; just make sure they are completely dry before using Blacken-it. Any residual soapy bubbles will prevent the Blacken-it reaction at that point and leave it bare metal. Likewise, when soaking the tracks in Blacken-it, be sure to agitate the soaking container periodically, as air bubbles trapped in nooks and crannies will also prevent proper reaction. Keep an eye on the reaction's progress; for a while nothing seems to happen, and then reaction comes quickly. Results are haphazard with gray to dark gray, mottled gray, and sometimes a dark brownish color will result. If you get a white powdery residue, no problem, it will easily brush off.
yup. I had a light brown once, after soaking for 6 hours :-/. Using the same solution Ihad a straight black the time after. It's like witchcraft to be honest.
Some suggest soaking in distilled vinegar first, then rinse well. The acid is supposed to strip the surface allowing the blacken it to attack the bare metal.
Tanksami
Victoria, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2011
KitMaker: 1,314 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Joined: August 06, 2011
KitMaker: 1,314 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 07:14 AM UTC
Hi Biggles,
Thank you for that I will certainly do that & see what happens!!
Hi Andy,
Thanks for that info I had also heard about the vineagar trick as well so I will also try that!!
I have also read that some people reuse it?? I thought it was a one shot weapon for want of a better term.
Cheers Mike
Thank you for that I will certainly do that & see what happens!!
Hi Andy,
Thanks for that info I had also heard about the vineagar trick as well so I will also try that!!
I have also read that some people reuse it?? I thought it was a one shot weapon for want of a better term.
Cheers Mike
redcap
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 753 posts
Armorama: 378 posts
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 753 posts
Armorama: 378 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 07:32 AM UTC
I concur with what Andy said in the post above; i.e. my own experiences with this solution were effectively "witchcraft" as to how they will react to it. First time I used it, the Friuls had a thorough washing, degrease and drying for a week (went on hols) in the airing cupboard and they did not even change colour in the solution. Second time, (some) went a pale orange/brown colour similar to the soft drink 'Tizer'.... and that was it.
The magazine reviewers never seem to have a problem with this chemical product so perhaps it's something I and many others I know who have tried it are doing wrong..?
Personally, nowadays I just stick with good old Halfords grey and satin black spray primers with Friuls then use MIG pigments and oil washes to get great results. Good luck with your own efforts using 'Blacken It".
Gary
The magazine reviewers never seem to have a problem with this chemical product so perhaps it's something I and many others I know who have tried it are doing wrong..?
Personally, nowadays I just stick with good old Halfords grey and satin black spray primers with Friuls then use MIG pigments and oil washes to get great results. Good luck with your own efforts using 'Blacken It".
Gary
Blackstoat
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 10:20 AM UTC
Yep, re-use it buddy. It loses its potency with repeated use though.
Be careful though, it's literally poison, esp if you've got kids about mine didn't come with a child proof cap.
Be careful though, it's literally poison, esp if you've got kids about mine didn't come with a child proof cap.
Tanksami
Victoria, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2011
KitMaker: 1,314 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Joined: August 06, 2011
KitMaker: 1,314 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 12:16 PM UTC
Hi Andy,
Thanks for that I will keep that in mind
Cheers Mike
Thanks for that I will keep that in mind
Cheers Mike
Posted: Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 06:06 PM UTC
I've had good luck with it so far. I put it in an old plastic container. I use the same solution for one set of tracks then I discard it. After a couple of uses the chemical has lost its effect mostly.
After letting the tracks soak about 10 minutes, I lift them out using a pair of tweezers and I scrub them with an old toothbrush. The scrubbing works the solution into all of the cracks and crevices. After a thorough scrub I drop them back in the solution for more soaking.
I repeat this process over about an hours time.
After letting the tracks soak about 10 minutes, I lift them out using a pair of tweezers and I scrub them with an old toothbrush. The scrubbing works the solution into all of the cracks and crevices. After a thorough scrub I drop them back in the solution for more soaking.
I repeat this process over about an hours time.
Tanksami
Victoria, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2011
KitMaker: 1,314 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Joined: August 06, 2011
KitMaker: 1,314 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 07:52 PM UTC
Hi Brent,
Thanks very much for the tip I will try scrabbing them as I go as well.
Cheers Mike
Thanks very much for the tip I will try scrabbing them as I go as well.
Cheers Mike