Hey fellas!
Thought I would start up a little thread on this one; Perfect Scale Modellbau's Pionierpanzer 1(PiPz 1) mit Inneneinrichtung - Leopard 1 AEV 1 with interior 1/35 resin kit! Pheeew! Basically in short, I will be having at this Leopard 1 AEV from PSM...LOL!!
Please stop by the 'reviews' and look for Darren Bakers review of this kit which should be posted soon! I will add the link here once it is!
I won't be starting this right away but wanted to have a place to park things once I do.
So just to keep things interesting, a couple box shots...
This a good size kit, with that, this won't be done in one night! LOL!!
So far the details look pretty crisp! I am looking forward to digging in my heels on this when the time comes!
I hope to start taking a bite out of this one soon...until then, thanks for swinging by!!
Hosted by Darren Baker
PSM - Leopard 1 AEV 1
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 12, 2014 - 11:09 AM UTC
chnoone
Armed Forces Europe, United States
Joined: January 01, 2009
KitMaker: 1,036 posts
Armorama: 1,033 posts
Joined: January 01, 2009
KitMaker: 1,036 posts
Armorama: 1,033 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 12, 2014 - 06:18 PM UTC
Looks like a great kit and due to the quality/precision of the PSM products easy to build.
In the TANKOGRAD book Publication ID: Nr. 5008
Modern German Army Armoured Engineer Vehicles
there is a pic of one German vehicle in the NATO 3-tone camo looking very smart.
Nice project!
Cheers
Christopher
In the TANKOGRAD book Publication ID: Nr. 5008
Modern German Army Armoured Engineer Vehicles
there is a pic of one German vehicle in the NATO 3-tone camo looking very smart.
Nice project!
Cheers
Christopher
Chuck4
United States
Joined: November 13, 2013
KitMaker: 403 posts
Armorama: 401 posts
Joined: November 13, 2013
KitMaker: 403 posts
Armorama: 401 posts
Posted: Friday, June 13, 2014 - 02:00 AM UTC
Todd:
Does the kit come with the option to replace the auger with an excavating bucket?
Does the kit come with the option to replace the auger with an excavating bucket?
chnoone
Armed Forces Europe, United States
Joined: January 01, 2009
KitMaker: 1,036 posts
Armorama: 1,033 posts
Joined: January 01, 2009
KitMaker: 1,036 posts
Armorama: 1,033 posts
Posted: Friday, June 13, 2014 - 03:07 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Todd:
Does the kit come with the option to replace the auger with an excavating bucket?
The bucket comes with the Pioneerpanzer 2 "Dachs" (Badger) with would resemble the upgrade of this vehicle roughly 2 decades later:
The PSM kit is the initial Pioneerpanzer on Leopard 1 chassis.
This version is still in service with the Netherlands, Belgium, Italy ... and god knows who else ...
The "Dachs" is only in service with the German and Canadian army to my knowledge ... but with all the "selling off" going on I might be corrected on this.
Cheers
Christopher
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, June 13, 2014 - 03:48 AM UTC
Hello Christopher, Thanks for swinging by and the info on the NATO 3-tone coloring as well as helping out Chuck a bit!
Chuck, this kit does not have the bucket attachment. PSM does have one they offer; however I recently tried to log onto their site and found the site is down due to some some commercial "legal" agreement or something. I hope they get this resolved soon!
Chuck, this kit does not have the bucket attachment. PSM does have one they offer; however I recently tried to log onto their site and found the site is down due to some some commercial "legal" agreement or something. I hope they get this resolved soon!
LeoCmdr
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2005
KitMaker: 4,085 posts
Armorama: 3,917 posts
Joined: January 19, 2005
KitMaker: 4,085 posts
Armorama: 3,917 posts
Posted: Friday, June 13, 2014 - 06:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Chuck, this kit does not have the bucket attachment. PSM does have one they offer; however I recently tried to log onto their site and found the site is down due to some some commercial "legal" agreement or something. I hope they get this resolved soon!
PSM does not produce a 1/35 Dachs AEV with the excavator bucket. There are some very prominent modifications to the later Dachs AEV version. The only company that produces a 1/35 Dachs AEV is Elite.
http://www.elitemodell.de/shop/article_3508/Pionierpanzer-2-Dachs.html?sessid=6AdAD3yebqnZaRIxHqnrQAYiYOwTSxbsQPn55vtyKPaCJNM9f2neqbyktWmb9esT&shop_param=cid%3D8%26aid%3D3508%26
sauceman
Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 28, 2006
KitMaker: 2,672 posts
Armorama: 2,475 posts
Joined: September 28, 2006
KitMaker: 2,672 posts
Armorama: 2,475 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 12:31 AM UTC
panorama
Germany
Joined: January 18, 2013
KitMaker: 254 posts
Armorama: 253 posts
Joined: January 18, 2013
KitMaker: 254 posts
Armorama: 253 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 06:19 AM UTC
Nice project, good luck with it. Having been a combat engineer during my army time I always liked the PiPz, brightlayer Biber and the Fuchs.
Happy modelling Michael
PS: www.perfect-scale is alive and kicking!
Happy modelling Michael
PS: www.perfect-scale is alive and kicking!
rogerjo1
Västra Götaland, Sweden
Joined: November 12, 2010
KitMaker: 950 posts
Armorama: 905 posts
Joined: November 12, 2010
KitMaker: 950 posts
Armorama: 905 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 06:38 AM UTC
This must be my next kit i buy... The kit details look very good. So it is possible to paint the kit in the German 3 tone cammo?
Good luck with the kit, will following this build...
Good luck with the kit, will following this build...
mshackleton
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 16, 2007
KitMaker: 559 posts
Armorama: 517 posts
Joined: December 16, 2007
KitMaker: 559 posts
Armorama: 517 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 06:49 AM UTC
Hi Todd
Good luck with this one. Please don't do it three-tone. Most Bundeswehr Pionierpanzer (pie-in-your-ear) 1s were just plain Gelbolive.
Later, all of the German ones were converted into Pionierpanzer 2 Dachs which is the one with the big bucket - a different beast altogether.
As well as the countries listed above by Chris, Chile now operates some which they use alongside Dachs!
Rick - that is a Bergepanzer 2 (Canadian Taurus actually) - the ARV version you posted a photo of. Nice photo though. This kit is an AEV.
Best regards
Michael Shackleton
Author Leopard 1 Trilogy
www.leopardclub.ca
www.facebook.com/leopardfibel
Good luck with this one. Please don't do it three-tone. Most Bundeswehr Pionierpanzer (pie-in-your-ear) 1s were just plain Gelbolive.
Later, all of the German ones were converted into Pionierpanzer 2 Dachs which is the one with the big bucket - a different beast altogether.
As well as the countries listed above by Chris, Chile now operates some which they use alongside Dachs!
Rick - that is a Bergepanzer 2 (Canadian Taurus actually) - the ARV version you posted a photo of. Nice photo though. This kit is an AEV.
Best regards
Michael Shackleton
Author Leopard 1 Trilogy
www.leopardclub.ca
www.facebook.com/leopardfibel
mshackleton
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 16, 2007
KitMaker: 559 posts
Armorama: 517 posts
Joined: December 16, 2007
KitMaker: 559 posts
Armorama: 517 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 09:39 AM UTC
Does anyone out there have a really good set of photos of Pionierpanzer 1 - the ORIGINAL Leopard 1 AEV - not Dachs. Belgian, Italian, Dutch?
In particular I'm looking for good shots of the rear deck and the auger. I would like to publish these on Leopard Club in the Spotlight feature, particularly as reference for those building the PSM kit as the instructions could be a lot clearer.
Best regards
Michael Shackleton
Author Leopard 1 Trilogy
www.leopardclub.ca
www.facebook.com/leopardfibel
In particular I'm looking for good shots of the rear deck and the auger. I would like to publish these on Leopard Club in the Spotlight feature, particularly as reference for those building the PSM kit as the instructions could be a lot clearer.
Best regards
Michael Shackleton
Author Leopard 1 Trilogy
www.leopardclub.ca
www.facebook.com/leopardfibel
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 22, 2014 - 01:01 PM UTC
Okay Folks!!
Time to get this one started!!
Thanks for all of the interest so far and thanks for those reference shots! Some great looking hardware! I do have to give a bit of thanks to Mike Shackleton and the Leopard Club here and it most likely won't be the last...LOL!! Mike has been great in answering a couple AEV Noobe questions for me! Not to mention, I have made and early decision on the scheme and I like the Gelbolive suggested by him in his last post. This will give me the best opportunity to really play around with weathering after the fact!
This is not going to be a speed build by all means but I should be able to move along with it just the same!
First...If you have a chance and have not seen it already, Darren Baker posted a short in-box showing of this kit here: https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/10291 All the the parts for the kit are laid out so if you are interested you can check out what comes in the box!
Not to drag on with a bunch of useless words,(I know...I already did!) it is time to dig in and get moving!
As part of this build I will more or less review what I see with the kit as I go...I could have just said "build/review" and called it a day!
Let me start by covering one thing about this kit; the instructions. If you are putting this kit on your must have list or thinking you might want to pick it up, be aware that the instructions are somewhat daunting.
The photographs are not exactly the clearest and and the arrows don't point to the exact location that the part is intended for. It is best that you compile a few good reference photos of this vehicle before you start and thing will be much clearer as you go.
So following the instructions, the Tub was first out of the box. As you seen in the first pictures I posted, there is a large casting plug at the front of the lower hull. This does not need to be removed, but does need to be trimmed down before attempting to fit the floor.
There are two inner sleeve parts that will need to be installed at the front of the hull, these close off the openings for the support arms for the dozer blade. As you can see in the picture, I needed to hone out the hull a bit to get these to seat correctly. In addition, I needed to sand the parts themselves so they lined up square. Per the instructions, for this and many other locations, the suggestion of the use of filler/putty was given.
I have been able to go to town and clean up a few parts as I get ready to start getting things together.
The interior is not too bad. There is some rough edges inside but with a quick dry fit of the top and bottom sections, there is a little bit of a limited view inside and depending on your level of anal retentiveness, alteration can be made...but certainly not needed.
I don't plan on gluing all the interior parts down yet as I want to make my life a bit easier with the painting...but I do want to place a couple of them just the same. First would the outside storage locker that can be shown open when done and the rack for the radios.
The first little bump in the road is the handle for the side on one of the shelving units. The kit supplied part is larger than the pre-cast holes.
A simple fix....
Things are coming together now.
The floor plating has some nice tread to it and fit well first time out. The driver controls and the seat mounts fit nice...
Next step will be a little interior painting I think. Then I can start to glue some parts!!
Thanks for taking the time to stop in!!
Time to get this one started!!
Thanks for all of the interest so far and thanks for those reference shots! Some great looking hardware! I do have to give a bit of thanks to Mike Shackleton and the Leopard Club here and it most likely won't be the last...LOL!! Mike has been great in answering a couple AEV Noobe questions for me! Not to mention, I have made and early decision on the scheme and I like the Gelbolive suggested by him in his last post. This will give me the best opportunity to really play around with weathering after the fact!
This is not going to be a speed build by all means but I should be able to move along with it just the same!
First...If you have a chance and have not seen it already, Darren Baker posted a short in-box showing of this kit here: https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/10291 All the the parts for the kit are laid out so if you are interested you can check out what comes in the box!
Not to drag on with a bunch of useless words,(I know...I already did!) it is time to dig in and get moving!
As part of this build I will more or less review what I see with the kit as I go...I could have just said "build/review" and called it a day!
Let me start by covering one thing about this kit; the instructions. If you are putting this kit on your must have list or thinking you might want to pick it up, be aware that the instructions are somewhat daunting.
The photographs are not exactly the clearest and and the arrows don't point to the exact location that the part is intended for. It is best that you compile a few good reference photos of this vehicle before you start and thing will be much clearer as you go.
So following the instructions, the Tub was first out of the box. As you seen in the first pictures I posted, there is a large casting plug at the front of the lower hull. This does not need to be removed, but does need to be trimmed down before attempting to fit the floor.
There are two inner sleeve parts that will need to be installed at the front of the hull, these close off the openings for the support arms for the dozer blade. As you can see in the picture, I needed to hone out the hull a bit to get these to seat correctly. In addition, I needed to sand the parts themselves so they lined up square. Per the instructions, for this and many other locations, the suggestion of the use of filler/putty was given.
I have been able to go to town and clean up a few parts as I get ready to start getting things together.
The interior is not too bad. There is some rough edges inside but with a quick dry fit of the top and bottom sections, there is a little bit of a limited view inside and depending on your level of anal retentiveness, alteration can be made...but certainly not needed.
I don't plan on gluing all the interior parts down yet as I want to make my life a bit easier with the painting...but I do want to place a couple of them just the same. First would the outside storage locker that can be shown open when done and the rack for the radios.
The first little bump in the road is the handle for the side on one of the shelving units. The kit supplied part is larger than the pre-cast holes.
A simple fix....
Things are coming together now.
The floor plating has some nice tread to it and fit well first time out. The driver controls and the seat mounts fit nice...
Next step will be a little interior painting I think. Then I can start to glue some parts!!
Thanks for taking the time to stop in!!
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, June 27, 2014 - 04:04 AM UTC
Pulled some time to get some resin flying around here....
Per the 1st page instructions is called for the cooling fan located in the rear deck to be installed. The instructions ask for this part to be painted prior to installation as there is actually two PE parts, the grills, that need to be installed over it; one before the fan gets installed and one after...much after.
A couple notes here....there are a couple EPM (Ejector Pin Marks) inside the fan box. Obviously this was a copied part from some Leopard kit along the way...no problem here. First the part only fills the void so "IF" you could see through the grills on top it would not look so empty and secondly there is no way anyone will ever see the EPM's let alone the painting of this part due to the two grills being installed....minor formality I guess!
As you can see with only the one grill in place, you can barely see the fan...almost not point in painting this part really! The second grill will go in place after I paint the #1 grill.
I laid down some interior color....
Interior parts are painted and installed!
Looks like a little weathering inside is next and then I can button things up. I am expecting a little bit of work in getting things to match up between the upper and lower halves. The instruction are not shy about letting the builder know about the use of filler.
The front lip on the AEV does in fact hang over a little so the fit here only needs some cleaning from what I can see so far...
The rear plate is whole other ballgame. The rear plate has a warp to it, which is not uncommon with flat resin parts and correctable by placing in a cup of hot (coffee or tea standards) for a few moments. This will soften the part and it will go right back to its original shape. BE CAREFUL...that is my warning about the hot water....you have tweezers...use them!!
The first big "OOPS" I found with this PSM Kit was alignment. You can see the rear plate is not even inside the upper hull section at all when placed correctly on the lower hull.I have a fix for this and will show this in my next update. The second big "OOPS" with this kit is the tail light location...this is wrong. Each of the oval-shaped tail lights should be above the reflectors that are to the outside of the lights and close to the joint between the upper hull and rear plate. I will cover what I will have to do with this as well in the next update! Time for a little surgery I guess!!
Thanks for tuning in!!
Per the 1st page instructions is called for the cooling fan located in the rear deck to be installed. The instructions ask for this part to be painted prior to installation as there is actually two PE parts, the grills, that need to be installed over it; one before the fan gets installed and one after...much after.
A couple notes here....there are a couple EPM (Ejector Pin Marks) inside the fan box. Obviously this was a copied part from some Leopard kit along the way...no problem here. First the part only fills the void so "IF" you could see through the grills on top it would not look so empty and secondly there is no way anyone will ever see the EPM's let alone the painting of this part due to the two grills being installed....minor formality I guess!
As you can see with only the one grill in place, you can barely see the fan...almost not point in painting this part really! The second grill will go in place after I paint the #1 grill.
I laid down some interior color....
Interior parts are painted and installed!
Looks like a little weathering inside is next and then I can button things up. I am expecting a little bit of work in getting things to match up between the upper and lower halves. The instruction are not shy about letting the builder know about the use of filler.
The front lip on the AEV does in fact hang over a little so the fit here only needs some cleaning from what I can see so far...
The rear plate is whole other ballgame. The rear plate has a warp to it, which is not uncommon with flat resin parts and correctable by placing in a cup of hot (coffee or tea standards) for a few moments. This will soften the part and it will go right back to its original shape. BE CAREFUL...that is my warning about the hot water....you have tweezers...use them!!
The first big "OOPS" I found with this PSM Kit was alignment. You can see the rear plate is not even inside the upper hull section at all when placed correctly on the lower hull.I have a fix for this and will show this in my next update. The second big "OOPS" with this kit is the tail light location...this is wrong. Each of the oval-shaped tail lights should be above the reflectors that are to the outside of the lights and close to the joint between the upper hull and rear plate. I will cover what I will have to do with this as well in the next update! Time for a little surgery I guess!!
Thanks for tuning in!!
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, June 27, 2014 - 11:22 PM UTC
Let's keep this rolling some!!
I slapped around some chipping and a quick wash on the interior. Might be a bit heavy near the driver's side hatch floor, but oh well! Not too mention I rushed down to snap the pic before I realized my wash was a bit uneven! Fixed now though!
On to the tail light repositioning. I seem to have not the thin type of hobby saw in my possession at this time (surely on the list of thing to replace :think: ) I managed to use the ancient secret of hot water to get my way in removing the tail lights and salvaging them for replacement.
I boiled some water in a coffee mug, 2 minutes on high in the microwave, dropped the part in the mug and the part softened right up. This accomplished removing the warp to the rear deck as well as making the resin soft enough to slide a brand new #11 through it behind the lights and saving the bulk of the part. The rest was just clean up to which I found not only filling and sanding the areas where the lights were previously installed but across the middle section of the plate there was a minute unevenness to the face which sanded out for the most part decently when I attached the upper and lower sections, which in turn needed to filled as well.
As I mentioned and showed in my last update, there was the issue with the upper and lower hull fit to contend with. This needed to be dealt with from literally two fronts. The rear of the upper hull was where there was a cast block attachment leaving an uneven edge. Typically a quick sand an all is well...
However, since the rear edge of the upper hull was already inset too far for the rear plate to sit flush within it, I needed to then sand the area behind the upper front glacis plate causing the top hull section to move back and get the fit I needed. This needed to be brought back about 1.5 to 2mm or the thickness of the rear plate.
The two halves...come together!!
The front still retained the slight "overbite" that it needed and the rear fell right into place.
The filler inside the slots where the plow blade support arm will be is completely normal (from what I read) for this kit. If interested, a sanding stick fits perfectly into the slot and the sanding was too easy.
The rear plate installed and tail light move up and out.
As you may have noticed, the swing arms and suspension parts are installed now. There are a few things in this area one might want to be aware of when building...The swing arms appear to be simple copies of maybe the revel kit and there is little help from the instruction on the installation not to mention some air bubble associated with them. The shocks have no set pins to them yet there is a placement hole in the hull for the mounting. Attachment of the shock to the swing arm and there being three glued attachment points is a daunting task to say the least but if you take you time, things come together just fine!
I have some wheels ans sprockets to contend with at the moment...back soon with another update!!
Thanks for stopping in!!
I slapped around some chipping and a quick wash on the interior. Might be a bit heavy near the driver's side hatch floor, but oh well! Not too mention I rushed down to snap the pic before I realized my wash was a bit uneven! Fixed now though!
On to the tail light repositioning. I seem to have not the thin type of hobby saw in my possession at this time (surely on the list of thing to replace :think: ) I managed to use the ancient secret of hot water to get my way in removing the tail lights and salvaging them for replacement.
I boiled some water in a coffee mug, 2 minutes on high in the microwave, dropped the part in the mug and the part softened right up. This accomplished removing the warp to the rear deck as well as making the resin soft enough to slide a brand new #11 through it behind the lights and saving the bulk of the part. The rest was just clean up to which I found not only filling and sanding the areas where the lights were previously installed but across the middle section of the plate there was a minute unevenness to the face which sanded out for the most part decently when I attached the upper and lower sections, which in turn needed to filled as well.
As I mentioned and showed in my last update, there was the issue with the upper and lower hull fit to contend with. This needed to be dealt with from literally two fronts. The rear of the upper hull was where there was a cast block attachment leaving an uneven edge. Typically a quick sand an all is well...
However, since the rear edge of the upper hull was already inset too far for the rear plate to sit flush within it, I needed to then sand the area behind the upper front glacis plate causing the top hull section to move back and get the fit I needed. This needed to be brought back about 1.5 to 2mm or the thickness of the rear plate.
The two halves...come together!!
The front still retained the slight "overbite" that it needed and the rear fell right into place.
The filler inside the slots where the plow blade support arm will be is completely normal (from what I read) for this kit. If interested, a sanding stick fits perfectly into the slot and the sanding was too easy.
The rear plate installed and tail light move up and out.
As you may have noticed, the swing arms and suspension parts are installed now. There are a few things in this area one might want to be aware of when building...The swing arms appear to be simple copies of maybe the revel kit and there is little help from the instruction on the installation not to mention some air bubble associated with them. The shocks have no set pins to them yet there is a placement hole in the hull for the mounting. Attachment of the shock to the swing arm and there being three glued attachment points is a daunting task to say the least but if you take you time, things come together just fine!
I have some wheels ans sprockets to contend with at the moment...back soon with another update!!
Thanks for stopping in!!
panorama
Germany
Joined: January 18, 2013
KitMaker: 254 posts
Armorama: 253 posts
Joined: January 18, 2013
KitMaker: 254 posts
Armorama: 253 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 02:51 AM UTC
Nice in build review Todd. I like how it comes together. Go ahead - I´ll follow!
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 03:59 AM UTC
Thank you Michael! Glad to have you along for the ride!!
chnoone
Armed Forces Europe, United States
Joined: January 01, 2009
KitMaker: 1,036 posts
Armorama: 1,033 posts
Joined: January 01, 2009
KitMaker: 1,036 posts
Armorama: 1,033 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 07:20 PM UTC
Getting along quite fast ... nice build !
Thoughts on what period / time frame you wish to set the vehicle ?
Cheers
Christopher
Thoughts on what period / time frame you wish to set the vehicle ?
Cheers
Christopher
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 29, 2014 - 02:12 PM UTC
Thanks Christopher! Most appreciated! As for the time period? Can't really answer that past the "present" labeling. Once I get to the painting and decal work I am sure I will narrow things down a bit more!!
A little more for you tonight...
Wheels, the things that make the world go round and round! Lets talk wheels for a moment!
After having a pretty good couple of discussion with Mr. Shackleton, I ended up with some new wheels in front of me for this one. Right off the bat I can see where the Leopard Club Replacement wheels are a great fix to lacking details and what I found to be "scale" when it comes to the PSM wheels.
This set comes with obviously the complete set of road wheels, two different colors show the inner and outer wheels and actually a slightly lighter grey for the set of two idlers provided.
For the sake of this build review, it is good to go over what is out there for wheels. As labeled you can see the different manufacturers. This is the backs of the wheels. As you can see, the key point behind the Leopard Club Replacement Wheels is the details added to the backs of the wheels. NONE of the other companies have this including this PSM kit. I do know this is one of those take it or leave it details for some, but they are seen depending on weathering and placement of the model.
The fronts
For the sake of this PSM Build Review I would like to point out the big differences and why I decided to add these upgraded wheels. The hubs on the Leopard Club Idlers is crisper with a cleaner look. I do like the lug nuts a little better on the PSM but the cleaner demarcation between the rim and the rubber on the Leopard Club wheels makes this a no brainer decision on my part!.
I will add the PSN are larger in diameter than the Leopard Club's wheels which are more to scale...not by much but still noticeable.
The hubs on the road wheels are just as clean as the Idlers. Here you can see the big difference in the lug nuts but as with the Idlers, the rim edge is sharper on the Leo Club Wheels. Second biggest note is the wheel thickness. The Leo Club Replacement Wheels are thicker and more indicative of the Leopard 1's wheels.
I realize this update plays out like a review within a review but it is certainly some information that is needed to know when dealing with this kit. Now the kit will build up nicely with the supplied wheels and the sizing probably would not get noticed by most. For the low cost of these replacement wheels it just seemed the best course for helping out when the kit lacks a little.
Shoes are in place!! Well, not permanently but always good to check the stance!!
Okay, that ends this session of "look at my new sneakers"!! I have begun to clean up and install exterior parts on this beast. I am sure this will take the bulk of my time on this one. I will try and get an update to the progress real soon!!
Thanks for dropping in!!
A little more for you tonight...
Wheels, the things that make the world go round and round! Lets talk wheels for a moment!
After having a pretty good couple of discussion with Mr. Shackleton, I ended up with some new wheels in front of me for this one. Right off the bat I can see where the Leopard Club Replacement wheels are a great fix to lacking details and what I found to be "scale" when it comes to the PSM wheels.
This set comes with obviously the complete set of road wheels, two different colors show the inner and outer wheels and actually a slightly lighter grey for the set of two idlers provided.
For the sake of this build review, it is good to go over what is out there for wheels. As labeled you can see the different manufacturers. This is the backs of the wheels. As you can see, the key point behind the Leopard Club Replacement Wheels is the details added to the backs of the wheels. NONE of the other companies have this including this PSM kit. I do know this is one of those take it or leave it details for some, but they are seen depending on weathering and placement of the model.
The fronts
For the sake of this PSM Build Review I would like to point out the big differences and why I decided to add these upgraded wheels. The hubs on the Leopard Club Idlers is crisper with a cleaner look. I do like the lug nuts a little better on the PSM but the cleaner demarcation between the rim and the rubber on the Leopard Club wheels makes this a no brainer decision on my part!.
I will add the PSN are larger in diameter than the Leopard Club's wheels which are more to scale...not by much but still noticeable.
The hubs on the road wheels are just as clean as the Idlers. Here you can see the big difference in the lug nuts but as with the Idlers, the rim edge is sharper on the Leo Club Wheels. Second biggest note is the wheel thickness. The Leo Club Replacement Wheels are thicker and more indicative of the Leopard 1's wheels.
I realize this update plays out like a review within a review but it is certainly some information that is needed to know when dealing with this kit. Now the kit will build up nicely with the supplied wheels and the sizing probably would not get noticed by most. For the low cost of these replacement wheels it just seemed the best course for helping out when the kit lacks a little.
Shoes are in place!! Well, not permanently but always good to check the stance!!
Okay, that ends this session of "look at my new sneakers"!! I have begun to clean up and install exterior parts on this beast. I am sure this will take the bulk of my time on this one. I will try and get an update to the progress real soon!!
Thanks for dropping in!!
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, July 11, 2014 - 03:36 PM UTC
Well it looks like its time for another update. I am getting close to the end on this one. There are a few things that have cropped up as I build my way through the kit. I will try to best describe these things and what I did to fix the problems I came across.
First out of the gate this time around, the door and hinge system for the winch on the front of the AEV. The cast resin bar which the hinge would be attached seemed to have a few bubbles in it.
Basically all of the brass pieces on the front plate to the AEV here, I made up. These are metal brackets and standoffs used to hold down various peripheral items.
As for the door itself, the two hinges were all but missing. This is a picture I borrowed from Darren Baker's in-box showing of this kit. I would have to suspect that the hinges rubbed up against something upon transport over the pond to me.
Before the door came around to fixing I went after the bar. When I removed the bar there was a rather large sink hole beneath the exiting part.
After a little filler and a brass rod, the spot was brought up to speed. I also pulled out some styrene to make a pair of new hinges for the door.
Everything seemed to work out really well with the rehab. I did need to drill the two outer holes on the front of the door to accommodate a handle that PSM neglected to supply with the kit.
I have had the chance to add a number of the kit supplied details. Most of these are in decent condition and the PE is of great quality; however, there are a few things missed form the kit maker. As you can see in this head on shot, there are two small brackets i made from styrene at the top of the glacis. This bracket is to hold the pulley for the crane. The kit supplied a small pieces of PE, u-shaped and the instructions called for it to be installed the opposite way than it should have been...plus it was square only.
You might notice the tow support bracket on the side next to the headlight(s), I needed to make up two new ones as the kit supplied plates had bubbles on the out most edge and were very brittle.
You might have also noticed I have made a latch handle as well as a grab handle for the winch door. What can't be seen is since I had to go through the trouble of the extra work on the door, I had to make it work.
I will say, once the exterior parts begin to go on, the beast does come alive a little. After cleaning a few more of the frontal parts, basic tools, bracket and handles were attached to the exterior.
The dozer blade cleats are all cleaned and dry fit to the upper hull. I did feel I needed to add posts for the plates, not installed yet, that were supplied on the PE sheet.
Having a look at the back here, you can see all the brass as it stands out pretty well on the grey field. The brass handles did not come with the kit. There is wire supplied for this task, but it was a bit flimsy to work with. Not a big deal to bend up some small handles really.
Looking at the rear of the AEV so far. You can see I replaced the tow bar brackets with styrene as the kit supplied version were a bit chunky. As mentioned before once or twice, the instructions lack tremendously with this kit. There are several parts that need installing on the entire beast that do not show up, from what I can tell, on the sheets. One of which is some tiny locks for the storage bins on the back and top. As you can see these are not installed as of yet.
So far, things are shaping up somewhat with the build but to be honest, some of the frustration level has been high at times. I do not consider myself of the rivet counting variety at all, but I did feel that many of the alterations and additions were needed and probably should have been addressed by the kit maker before release.
I had a chance to make up some tow cables. The kit comes with more than enough is part, in copper stranded wire to do this task.
The dozer or plow blade was an easy construction. There is only three parts to this unless you wish to install the plow blade clears on the bottom and the side plates, which I installed on the rear deck. These are the half moon object straddling the fan grill.
Before I leave for this evening, I will show some of the crane as I began to clean and install some of the parts. Most of this is straight forward.
The only part so far I ran into was the ring and hook. The hook has been modified but is drying right now, here I managed to add a new ring out of aluminum rod.
I will have to say that is that for now. I still have a few things to finish on the crane boom as well as various smaller items on the upper hull before I get to the tracks. We can discuss that in my next update possibly.
As always, thanks for swinging by to have a peek!!
First out of the gate this time around, the door and hinge system for the winch on the front of the AEV. The cast resin bar which the hinge would be attached seemed to have a few bubbles in it.
Basically all of the brass pieces on the front plate to the AEV here, I made up. These are metal brackets and standoffs used to hold down various peripheral items.
As for the door itself, the two hinges were all but missing. This is a picture I borrowed from Darren Baker's in-box showing of this kit. I would have to suspect that the hinges rubbed up against something upon transport over the pond to me.
Before the door came around to fixing I went after the bar. When I removed the bar there was a rather large sink hole beneath the exiting part.
After a little filler and a brass rod, the spot was brought up to speed. I also pulled out some styrene to make a pair of new hinges for the door.
Everything seemed to work out really well with the rehab. I did need to drill the two outer holes on the front of the door to accommodate a handle that PSM neglected to supply with the kit.
I have had the chance to add a number of the kit supplied details. Most of these are in decent condition and the PE is of great quality; however, there are a few things missed form the kit maker. As you can see in this head on shot, there are two small brackets i made from styrene at the top of the glacis. This bracket is to hold the pulley for the crane. The kit supplied a small pieces of PE, u-shaped and the instructions called for it to be installed the opposite way than it should have been...plus it was square only.
You might notice the tow support bracket on the side next to the headlight(s), I needed to make up two new ones as the kit supplied plates had bubbles on the out most edge and were very brittle.
You might have also noticed I have made a latch handle as well as a grab handle for the winch door. What can't be seen is since I had to go through the trouble of the extra work on the door, I had to make it work.
I will say, once the exterior parts begin to go on, the beast does come alive a little. After cleaning a few more of the frontal parts, basic tools, bracket and handles were attached to the exterior.
The dozer blade cleats are all cleaned and dry fit to the upper hull. I did feel I needed to add posts for the plates, not installed yet, that were supplied on the PE sheet.
Having a look at the back here, you can see all the brass as it stands out pretty well on the grey field. The brass handles did not come with the kit. There is wire supplied for this task, but it was a bit flimsy to work with. Not a big deal to bend up some small handles really.
Looking at the rear of the AEV so far. You can see I replaced the tow bar brackets with styrene as the kit supplied version were a bit chunky. As mentioned before once or twice, the instructions lack tremendously with this kit. There are several parts that need installing on the entire beast that do not show up, from what I can tell, on the sheets. One of which is some tiny locks for the storage bins on the back and top. As you can see these are not installed as of yet.
So far, things are shaping up somewhat with the build but to be honest, some of the frustration level has been high at times. I do not consider myself of the rivet counting variety at all, but I did feel that many of the alterations and additions were needed and probably should have been addressed by the kit maker before release.
I had a chance to make up some tow cables. The kit comes with more than enough is part, in copper stranded wire to do this task.
The dozer or plow blade was an easy construction. There is only three parts to this unless you wish to install the plow blade clears on the bottom and the side plates, which I installed on the rear deck. These are the half moon object straddling the fan grill.
Before I leave for this evening, I will show some of the crane as I began to clean and install some of the parts. Most of this is straight forward.
The only part so far I ran into was the ring and hook. The hook has been modified but is drying right now, here I managed to add a new ring out of aluminum rod.
I will have to say that is that for now. I still have a few things to finish on the crane boom as well as various smaller items on the upper hull before I get to the tracks. We can discuss that in my next update possibly.
As always, thanks for swinging by to have a peek!!
gcdavidson
Ontario, Canada
Joined: August 05, 2003
KitMaker: 1,698 posts
Armorama: 1,563 posts
Joined: August 05, 2003
KitMaker: 1,698 posts
Armorama: 1,563 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 12:34 AM UTC
Great blog Todd, thanks for sharing
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 03:37 AM UTC
Thank you Graeme!! Happy to know you are enjoying it! Should be too much longer!
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 03:40 AM UTC
I am impressed at the progress you are making with this model Todd. Well done.
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 03:56 AM UTC
Hiya Darren!! Thank you sir!! As much as it sounds like I am frustrated a bit with things, I am still having some fun getting things sorted with this one! In most respects things do move right along and generally the fitting of the parts are decent all around! Not being one who typically drawn to the modern genre I am liking this subject matter a lot! Interesting subject for sure!!
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 04:43 AM UTC
This is one of those models that will attract attention regardless of the viewers interests, as it is out of the norm.
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 06:00 AM UTC
This is definitely Unique kit Darren!! I am really digging the engineering vehicles lately. Don't know a whole heck of a lot about them but sure fun to learn!!