i have a few rather large areas to cover, like the outside and inside of an HK B-25.
what's the best technique, tool, brand, etc. to get this job done?
sometimes I rattle can these, but I plan to use colors not available that way.
any advice is appreciated
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How do I airbrush larger areas?
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Illini
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 05:50 AM UTC
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Illini
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 06:56 AM UTC
Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 07:45 AM UTC
I don't have any knowledge of that airbrush Dave, but rule of thumb is buy the best you afford. I like using Badger airbrushes as they are fairly bullet proof, last for ever and are easy to use.
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ahandykindaguy
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 08:21 AM UTC
Tha smart Alec reply would be: with a larger airbrush? Bad un cha!
But seriously, try holding the airbrush farther away from the piece you are painting
But seriously, try holding the airbrush farther away from the piece you are painting
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easyco69
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 08:35 AM UTC
Large needle , large aircap + cup. Avoid enamels but use acrylic's. Add a drying retarder to your paint to keep it wet. Enamels create too much overspray.
1/32 scale B-25? put it together, paint the inside with a medium and fine needle, also use brushes for tiny stuff. Mask off your clear canopies & spray at a 45 degree angle starting from one wingtip to the fuselage , continue on to the other wing. So your starting at one wingtip, airbrush pointing 45 degree angle towards fuselage , covering everything...right to the tip of the other wingtip.Mask the entire top after its dry...spray your bottom...the same way. You want to use a large needle for this big plane , you want to paint fast to keep everything wet...Its better to use nice thin paint & do multiple coats.I would suggest using Tamiya acrylics since they spray so dam nice!
My 2 cents.
1/32 scale B-25? put it together, paint the inside with a medium and fine needle, also use brushes for tiny stuff. Mask off your clear canopies & spray at a 45 degree angle starting from one wingtip to the fuselage , continue on to the other wing. So your starting at one wingtip, airbrush pointing 45 degree angle towards fuselage , covering everything...right to the tip of the other wingtip.Mask the entire top after its dry...spray your bottom...the same way. You want to use a large needle for this big plane , you want to paint fast to keep everything wet...Its better to use nice thin paint & do multiple coats.I would suggest using Tamiya acrylics since they spray so dam nice!
My 2 cents.
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TopSmith
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Posted: Monday, August 04, 2014 - 04:22 PM UTC
I agree, large needle, large nozzle and keep the airbrush moooving along. Make sure you have enough paint mixed to finish the job. Remember with a large nozzle not to get too close or you will get a thick spot or run.
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Posted: Monday, August 04, 2014 - 04:46 PM UTC
Any airbrush that can run a 0.7mm needle should get wide enough for what you need. I have tried Iwata, Grex and Harder & Steenbeck and they are all good.
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didgeboy
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Posted: Monday, May 11, 2015 - 05:37 AM UTC
What about a larger airbrush/ air gun setup like the Iwata 9230? Is that too much for larger jobs like 1/350 carriers and such?
Posted: Monday, May 11, 2015 - 06:27 AM UTC
I have a Eastwood trigger style airbrush that I mostly use for spraying future/clear/'whatever it is called now' and other clear coats. Adjust the back knob back, pull the trigger and the stuff flows wide. I actually picked this up at a automotive detailing site.
Cheers
Cheers
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Posted: Monday, May 11, 2015 - 06:53 AM UTC
Dave,
Harbor freight has a cheap airbrush would could paint you house with...
See link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-kit-47791.html
Harbor freight has a cheap airbrush would could paint you house with...
See link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-kit-47791.html
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SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, May 11, 2015 - 07:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Dave,
Harbor freight has a cheap airbrush would could paint you house with...
See link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-kit-47791.html
Sorry, but you'd be better off opening the paint bottle and flinging the paint at the model than putting it through that "airbrush".
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edmund
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Posted: Monday, May 11, 2015 - 07:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
but you are right , you need a bigger nozzle .Tha smart Alec reply would be: with a larger airbrush? Bad un cha!
But seriously, try holding the airbrush farther away from the piece you are painting
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SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, May 11, 2015 - 07:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
anyone tried this? Grex X1000
http://www.amazon.com/Grex-X1000-Format-Gravity-Nozzle/dp/B002XQ2K6G/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1403114038&sr=8-45&keywords=grex+airbrush
I think a 1mm nozzle is overkill. A quailty airbrush with a .5mm nozzle will cover a 4" area open wide, which will paint just about anything as long as you keep a wet edge. The Grex Tritium TG .5mm, with it's trigger grip and action, would be the most comfortable for shooting large areas. It is also an excellent quality airbrush.
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didgeboy
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 04:41 AM UTC
So would something like an Iwata 9230 be TOO much if I am doing large scale items like 1/350 carriers?
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jomark
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 06:02 AM UTC
For large area applications such as primers and base coats I use and Iwata HP-CS with a 0.5mm nozzle. If I'm lazy or have limited time to clean up after I use an Iwata Revolution M2 with a 0.4mm nozzle. I think you could go bigger for a 1/350 but it would be limited to just that purpose. The 0.4-0.5 are adequate enough for the job
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Chrisk-K
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 07:08 AM UTC
For wide coverage, I sometimes use an Iwata HP-CR with a .5mm nozzle.
But I mostly use an Iwata HP-CS with a .35mm nozzle, which can easily cover a wide area.
I also have an Iwata HP-B+ with a .2mm nozzle but hardly use it.
But I mostly use an Iwata HP-CS with a .35mm nozzle, which can easily cover a wide area.
I also have an Iwata HP-B+ with a .2mm nozzle but hardly use it.
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SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 07:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
So would something like an Iwata 9230 be TOO much if I am doing large scale items like 1/350 carriers?
Personally Damon, I'd say yes, unless you want to paint the carrier grey in one pass...
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didgeboy
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 09:42 AM UTC
Matt;
My concern would be that if you do it in several passes there would be a change in color and possibly texture on an off day. If I could do it in one pass then less variation and less time spent doing base coats.
My concern would be that if you do it in several passes there would be a change in color and possibly texture on an off day. If I could do it in one pass then less variation and less time spent doing base coats.
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nzgunnie
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 01:01 PM UTC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6gI9ljJsdo
This has some useful information on exactly this topic.
Check out his other videos too.
This has some useful information on exactly this topic.
Check out his other videos too.
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SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 09:43 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Matt;
My concern would be that if you do it in several passes there would be a change in color and possibly texture on an off day. If I could do it in one pass then less variation and less time spent doing base coats.
Damon, if those are your concerns, and you do enough ships, then rightfully go ahead and buy the Iwata 9230. Of course, a 1.3mm nozzle airbrush can always be dialed down, you don't have to use it wide open!
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Chrisk-K
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 07:19 AM UTC
Do some people use a 2" wide brush to minimize brush strokes on a miniature model? The Iwata 9230 would be an overkill for model painting.
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retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 05:10 PM UTC
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