Well it's time for me to start another build.
This is to help any of you with what I encounter during the build.
I don't need to hear from any of you that are EXPERTEN, about what is wrong with the kit.
This is just for FUN.
Donald
Here is a side by side comparison of Mengs Terminator and T90A lower hulls.
Now to get busy with the assembly.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Building Mengs Terminator
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 04:03 AM UTC
seanmcandrews
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 05:20 AM UTC
really looking forward to seeing how this one goes together. Saw your second photo first and was alarmed that the Terminator hull seemed to be a good 1/4 inch shorter than the T-90A, but in the second photo they look to be more or less the same length. Can you confirm?
Sean
Sean
35th-scale
Kildare, Ireland
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 05:41 AM UTC
I like your ethos: fun! And this is a cool looking vehicle. Definitely on my wish list. I'll be back.....
OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 07:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
really looking forward to seeing how this one goes together. Saw your second photo first and was alarmed that the Terminator hull seemed to be a good 1/4 inch shorter than the T-90A, but in the second photo they look to be more or less the same length. Can you confirm?
Sean
They are exactly the same size, I photographed them together to show the changes from one kit to the other. Meng could have simply given us the hull from their T90A, Most would not have known any difference.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2014 - 04:54 AM UTC
Have some more work done.
The first pic shows the inside of the front lower hull plate, you should remove the push pin protrusions as they will keep the plate from fitting flat.
The second shows the torsion bars being fitted a clear gage is included in the kit to get them all to sit evenly. This gage should be usable on their T90 kit.
You will need to enlarge the opening depresions where the rotary shocks go as the fit is quite tight.
Finally we have a view of the front lower hull, verry nice detailing, and the plastic is easy to work with.
That's all for now.
Donald
The first pic shows the inside of the front lower hull plate, you should remove the push pin protrusions as they will keep the plate from fitting flat.
The second shows the torsion bars being fitted a clear gage is included in the kit to get them all to sit evenly. This gage should be usable on their T90 kit.
You will need to enlarge the opening depresions where the rotary shocks go as the fit is quite tight.
Finally we have a view of the front lower hull, verry nice detailing, and the plastic is easy to work with.
That's all for now.
Donald
bat-213
Canada
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2014 - 11:57 AM UTC
you have a good start on your build. don't any crap from any one. modeling is a fun thing not a.contest all the time. have fun.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, July 07, 2014 - 04:59 AM UTC
Have some more work finished.
Below is a close up of the front torsion bar assembly the mounting spots where the rotary dampers go need to be reamed out a little as the fit is quite tight.
Next the rear plate has been installed, I'll install the spare tracks after painting.
Below is a close up of the front torsion bar assembly the mounting spots where the rotary dampers go need to be reamed out a little as the fit is quite tight.
Next the rear plate has been installed, I'll install the spare tracks after painting.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, July 07, 2014 - 05:08 AM UTC
Now we have the front fenders.
Below is a pic of one of the torsion bars that hold the front of the fenders down.
There is a small piece on the bar by one of the hinges, THIS IS NOT FLASH.It goes over the fender hinge pin.
Note Below
Note the sequence of installing below.
Below is a pic of one of the torsion bars that hold the front of the fenders down.
There is a small piece on the bar by one of the hinges, THIS IS NOT FLASH.It goes over the fender hinge pin.
Note Below
Note the sequence of installing below.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, July 07, 2014 - 05:13 AM UTC
Finally for today we have the upper front end finished.
you should install the upper front ERA to the upper hull front before installing the lights and other small parts.
That's all for today.
Donald
you should install the upper front ERA to the upper hull front before installing the lights and other small parts.
That's all for today.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 06:03 AM UTC
I have been working on the engine deck. There is an assembly of bar armor and screens that if you follow the instructions it is very complicated. I found this easier.
#1 Assemble B 29 Support & B 31 Bar armor.
#2 Install Photo etch mesh X 13 to B 18 frame.
#3 Join the tops of B 18 & B 31 together with B 25 and let the sub assembly dry.
#4 Install it on the engine deck.
The location for the bar armor is not very clear.
I replaced the rear light guards with brass wire as the kit ones were rather delicate .
#1 Assemble B 29 Support & B 31 Bar armor.
#2 Install Photo etch mesh X 13 to B 18 frame.
#3 Join the tops of B 18 & B 31 together with B 25 and let the sub assembly dry.
#4 Install it on the engine deck.
The location for the bar armor is not very clear.
I replaced the rear light guards with brass wire as the kit ones were rather delicate .
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 06:13 AM UTC
Top View
The grenade launchers are movable but with the vinyl covers, it's probably better to put them in a fixed position.
I'm working on the turrets for the launcher operators next.
Have fun, Donald
The grenade launchers are movable but with the vinyl covers, it's probably better to put them in a fixed position.
I'm working on the turrets for the launcher operators next.
Have fun, Donald
choko-panda
Moscow, Russia
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Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 06:21 AM UTC
Looks good.
miniflea
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 06:45 AM UTC
Photos don't load when I view this page in Chrome (a problem I've never had with this website before) but they do when I view it on the wife's ipad. Anyone else having this issue?
Build looks like it is coming along nicely. I'm following with interest, as I recently put together Meng's T-90, though it stalled out during the painting phase.
Build looks like it is coming along nicely. I'm following with interest, as I recently put together Meng's T-90, though it stalled out during the painting phase.
choko-panda
Moscow, Russia
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Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 - 06:55 AM UTC
I opened this pics in Google Chrome and Safari. It's OK.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 08:38 AM UTC
Today I have for you the assembly of the hatches for the grenade launcher operator turrets. If you follow the instructions exactly I think you will be sorry.
I have for you p pics showing the sequence that I assembled them in and how I did it. Perhaps you can figure out an easier way.
Donald
I have for you p pics showing the sequence that I assembled them in and how I did it. Perhaps you can figure out an easier way.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 08:41 AM UTC
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2014 - 08:44 AM UTC
That's all for now.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 01:53 AM UTC
I just finished the bottom part of the turret, I had to ream out the turret ring in the hull & notches slightly to get it to fit right. It was tight. also had to trim some off the top of the tabs.
The rear of the turret would bind on the sides of the rear wall so I had to sand the detail off the rear.
You won't see it anyway when the turret is installed.
Next I start on the guns , I wonder how this will look in a coat of PINK paint?
Donald
The rear of the turret would bind on the sides of the rear wall so I had to sand the detail off the rear.
You won't see it anyway when the turret is installed.
Next I start on the guns , I wonder how this will look in a coat of PINK paint?
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 08:19 AM UTC
I finished the gun mount & gun. Shown below is the turret with it temporarily installed.
Next comes the AT Missile tubes.
Donald
Next comes the AT Missile tubes.
Donald
Tiger_213
California, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - 09:01 AM UTC
Looks good Donald.
Looking forward to getting the kit myself. Wonder how hard it would be to make the 'new' version that was just made public abfew weeks ago.....
Looking forward to getting the kit myself. Wonder how hard it would be to make the 'new' version that was just made public abfew weeks ago.....
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 03:42 AM UTC
Just finished the AT rocket tubes.
Still have to do a little bending on the photo etch.
The mine clearing equiptment is coming next. Looks really complicated.
Donald
Still have to do a little bending on the photo etch.
The mine clearing equiptment is coming next. Looks really complicated.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2014 - 04:01 AM UTC
Finally finished the mine clearing equipment. Below are the steps with pics that I used to do this. I hope it helps any of you that plan on building this kit. There may be other ways of doing the assembly, but this is how I did it. Donald
This is for the RIGHT SIDE with the blades in the retracted position. Just change the parts numbers for the left side and for the deployed positions.
Step #1 Glue P 16 to P 18
Step #2 Enlarge the hole in P 4 with a #46 drill, it's too small.
Step #3 Trap P13 between P18 & P21 making sure it is movable
Step #4 Install P4 onto P21 small pin on the end of P13 goes into small hole in P4.
Step #5 Install small end cap P33 on the end as shown.
Step #6 Install P42 onto P47 as shown in the instructions.
step #7 Install P2 to P47 making sure hook on P2 goes over end pin on P47. Then add this to the main assembly.
Step #8 Install P8 to the left side as shown in the instructions.
Step #9 Glue P11 to the top of P24 making sure to keep the rods parallel with the bevel on P24 on the bottom.
This is for the RIGHT SIDE with the blades in the retracted position. Just change the parts numbers for the left side and for the deployed positions.
Step #1 Glue P 16 to P 18
Step #2 Enlarge the hole in P 4 with a #46 drill, it's too small.
Step #3 Trap P13 between P18 & P21 making sure it is movable
Step #4 Install P4 onto P21 small pin on the end of P13 goes into small hole in P4.
Step #5 Install small end cap P33 on the end as shown.
Step #6 Install P42 onto P47 as shown in the instructions.
step #7 Install P2 to P47 making sure hook on P2 goes over end pin on P47. Then add this to the main assembly.
Step #8 Install P8 to the left side as shown in the instructions.
Step #9 Glue P11 to the top of P24 making sure to keep the rods parallel with the bevel on P24 on the bottom.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2014 - 04:26 AM UTC
Step #11 Glue ground skid P38 to the end of arm keeping it in line with the arm.
Step #12 Glue lock P52 to the side as shown.
Step #12 Glue lock P52 to the side as shown.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2014 - 04:37 AM UTC
The next steps are for assembly of the blades.
Glue center blade P27 to the middle slot in P50 note the angle, this will set the angle for the remaining 2 blades.
Glue P48 to P50 then glue on the remaining 2 blades P29 & P31 in their proper places setting them to match the center blade.
Slide on P34 to the assembly before the glue sets, check the algle of the blades and let dry.
Clip P44 to the end of blade assembly.
Attach the blade assembly to the arm assembly.
Glue center blade P27 to the middle slot in P50 note the angle, this will set the angle for the remaining 2 blades.
Glue P48 to P50 then glue on the remaining 2 blades P29 & P31 in their proper places setting them to match the center blade.
Slide on P34 to the assembly before the glue sets, check the algle of the blades and let dry.
Clip P44 to the end of blade assembly.
Attach the blade assembly to the arm assembly.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2014 - 04:50 AM UTC
The following 8 Pics are of the finished assemblies.