I know this generally depends on one's preference but, for a beginner, which medium would yield best results? I've seen magnificent work here and elsewhere from those who use both but I have to say that oils seem a little easier to work with.

Thanks!

Rob

I can only speak for myself, but I'm an oil painter.

I started in the mid-70's using hobby enamels which are blended either wet-on-wet or almost wet-on-wet. In the late 70's into the mid-80's, I added some oils to that since they're generally compatible with hobby enamels and the oils extended the working time, making blending easier. I gradually switched to mostly oils by the early to mid-90's.

Starting in the late 90's, I experimented for about five years with acrylics using a couple of different techniques, but then in about '04 I went back to oils, and have used them exclusively ever since.

I recommend oils to anyone since that's what I get my best results from.

However, there's no arguing that there are many phenomenal acrylic painters out there, so, in the end, it's really a personal choice.

I actually think that a lot has to do with the painter's personality and temperament. I believe the best painters in any medium need a medium that matches how fast and how freely they work.

Also, the painter needs to work in a medium that offers the kind of color pallet that he's comfortable with. Oils demand an ability to mix colors whereas acrylic painters are blessed with an almost unimaginable range of available colors. Although, again, the best acrylic painters are also very skilled in color mixing. However, the starting acrylic painter can rely on available colors. The oil painter has to learn immediately how to mix.

Figure painting mediums is a very complicated topic that can delve into subtleties once going beyond the very basics.

Best possible advice from a great master! Nothing to add!

Try out what suits your temper best....and start learning for the rest of your modelling time!

Cheers

Romain

Oils have a very long drying time (sometimes days) which is a mixed blessing as you can blend colors on the figure, or correct mistakes while the paint is still wet - good for collectors and painters of larger scale figures (54mm's and up). Acrylics dry almost immediately and you must achieve your shading and blending with very thin applications of color - almost like glazes. Acrylic paint is also harder on brushes as it dries between the bristles and can cause them to spread out needing more frequent cleaning. Acrylics, when used well, is good for lots of figs quickly for a diorama. Both are very different, and opposing techniques.

Thank you very much for the responses, gents! It's amazing that in the four books I own on figure painting none of the authors really provide such a simple, yet great explanation as what you all were able to provide.

I think I may start off with oils and then see if acrylics offer a better alternative. I tend to only use acrylics for airbrushing and detail painting in cockpits and the such but, to be honest, I feel that I need to build up the skills needed in figure painting before I try them.

Thanks again!

Rob

Feel free to ask questions. Although there're not many oil painters here, there are a few of us.

It's a very forgiving medium. Not without its limitations, but once you "crack the code," it offers a very steep learning curve.

I'd offer the following as a basic overview of the technique I use now:

Armorama::Figures::Italian Ariete Tankers North Africa

The bottom of page two has a quick SBS showing the basic steps.

HTH!

I use oils on canvas and yes, the drying time takes a very long time. There are additions that helps dry it quicker. for wet -in-wet I'd say oil is the best solution. other than that on kits I prefer acrylics.

Thanks again, guys!

Could you recommend some oil colors that I could start with? I know it may depend on the subject I'm working on but what would be a good starter color set? Also, any one brand better than another?

Rob

Hi Rob,

Here are the aide memoirs for a series of figure painting demos that I did for our local AMPS chapter:

AMPS Central SC::Figure Painting in Three Parts::Part One

AMPS Central SC::Figure Painting in Three Parts::Part Two

AMPS Central SC::Figure Painting in Three Parts::Part Three

There are some basic uniform color mixes in part two and several flesh tone mixes in part three.

One thing you'll find is that you can get away with very few actual colors when using oils. For example, four colors, black, yellow, red and white in slightly different ratios will get you just about every color from dark OD to light, tannish khaki.

On slide 15 of 24 in part two, there is a list of what I recommend as a "starter" set of colors. This includes the basic colors for flesh tones.

The color pallet for flesh tones is just about as simple, and in part three, there are several different mixes given, from a basic tone to various ethnic skin tones.

In regards to brands and quality of the paints, all of the major brands, Winsor & Newton, Grumbacher, Golden, etc, are about the same in overall quality. You should be able to source your oils from any big-box craft store or arts supply store.

However, all the major brands sell their paints in different levels or grades. At the lowest end of the spectrum are "student" oils, followed by "regular" oils, and finally "professional" grade oils. (The exact names vary from brand to brand, but generally three grades.)

There are also some new lines of "water based" oil paints. These paints contain an emulsifier that allows them to clean and thin with water. Stay away from these! You want the real thing.

for clean up and thinning, I use ordinary odorless mineral spirits (i.e. paint thinner). There are many other additives and thinners available from turpentine to ox gall, but until you get some experience, mineral spirits is all you need.

Because oils last so long, it's worth your money to buy the more expensive grades. However, until you get a little experience, you can get very good results with student grade paints. Later, as you want more quality, you can relegate your inexpensive student oils to weathering and replace them with the more expensive grades.

Happy modeling!

There's even a flesh tone available in artist's tube oils. Saves you the trouble of mixing your own.