Hosted by Darren Baker
Modelling clay as zimmerit
Alpha6
Alabama, United States
Joined: April 23, 2014
KitMaker: 116 posts
Armorama: 116 posts
Joined: April 23, 2014
KitMaker: 116 posts
Armorama: 116 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 06:29 PM UTC
Hey Everyone, I was thinking about redoing my King Tiger and I was wondering if modelling clay would work for zimmerit coating. The reasoning behind this is because it's soft and malleable. Thanks again.
ericadeane
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 11:38 PM UTC
It'll crumble when it dries out. I doubt it would adhere to your model. Unknown properties when painted. Likely unable to model ridges to scale.
All bad reasons to go forth, I'd say.
All bad reasons to go forth, I'd say.
AFVFan
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Monday, September 01, 2014 - 01:10 AM UTC
Not to mention that any amount of shrinkage would be unacceptable.
Posted: Monday, September 01, 2014 - 01:11 AM UTC
Concur. The soft clay (also known as Plasticene) that doesn't dry out is also infused with oils that will prevent it sticking well or of paint sticking or drying.
Don't think it's the way to go, my friend.
Don't think it's the way to go, my friend.
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Monday, September 01, 2014 - 02:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Not to mention that any amount of shrinkage would be unacceptable.
Funny. That's what "she" said.
AFVFan
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Monday, September 01, 2014 - 05:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextNot to mention that any amount of shrinkage would be unacceptable.
Funny. That's what "she" said.
And sadly, she was right!
Alpha6
Alabama, United States
Joined: April 23, 2014
KitMaker: 116 posts
Armorama: 116 posts
Joined: April 23, 2014
KitMaker: 116 posts
Armorama: 116 posts
Posted: Monday, September 01, 2014 - 07:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextNot to mention that any amount of shrinkage would be unacceptable.
Funny. That's what "she" said.
And sadly, she was right!
lol. That's funny. Thanks for your help everyone. If I may ask a follow-up question, is there a difference between modelling clay and ceramic clay? Would that make a difference?
stoney
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 480 posts
Armorama: 399 posts
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 480 posts
Armorama: 399 posts
Posted: Monday, September 01, 2014 - 07:45 AM UTC
Hi, I'd recommend either tamiya polyester 2 part or Aves apoxie sculpt, both have a decent working window and give a good result if applied thinly enough. Good luck!
Headhunter506
New York, United States
Joined: December 01, 2007
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Joined: December 01, 2007
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Monday, September 01, 2014 - 08:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
If I may ask a follow-up question, is there a difference between modelling clay and ceramic clay? Would that make a difference?
Modeling clay is made from oils, waxes and clay minerals. Because it contains oils, it doesn't dry out even when left out for long periods. It stays soft and malleable.
Ceramic clay is a water-based compound made from clay minerals and other raw materials and needs to be baked at a high temperature in order to harden.
Neither of these is useful for modeling zimmerit. You'd be better off using something like Magic-Sculpt two part self hardening epoxy clay. It can be smoothed down with water and air hardens like a rock. Once dry, you can use a hobby blade to chip it and simulate damaged zimmerit. It's also great for filling in seams. Magic-Sculpt can be found at any decent art supply store and will set you back about 15 bucks for a 1 lb. set (1 8oz. tub each of resin and hardener).
Posted: Monday, September 01, 2014 - 09:43 AM UTC
I would suggest Milliput, a two part putty. It has good working time, will stick to model well, and can be applied thin.
bill_c
Campaigns Administrator
New Jersey, United States
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
Armorama: 8,109 posts
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
Armorama: 8,109 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 03:38 AM UTC
Milliput, yes.
I never quite understand why modelers will spend significant $$$ to purchase a fine kit, then use whatever cheap **** they can dream up because they're too skinflinty to pay for AM products, but then risk ruining it.
Folks, unless you want the challenge, you should consider resin or even PE zimmerit. The thinness required for scale accuracy is beyond most of our skill sets. I've done the DIY Zim and it isn't worth the hassle IMO.
I never quite understand why modelers will spend significant $$$ to purchase a fine kit, then use whatever cheap **** they can dream up because they're too skinflinty to pay for AM products, but then risk ruining it.
Folks, unless you want the challenge, you should consider resin or even PE zimmerit. The thinness required for scale accuracy is beyond most of our skill sets. I've done the DIY Zim and it isn't worth the hassle IMO.