Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Friday, October 17, 2014 - 02:13 PM UTC
Got this one not so long ago and finally decided to make a start....
From Wikipedia...
Quoted Text
The original BARV was a Sherman M4A2 tank which had been waterproofed and had the turret replaced by a tall armoured superstructure. Around 50 were deployed on the invasion beaches during the Battle of Normandy. Able to operate in 9-foot (2.7 metre) deep water, the BARV was used to remove vehicles that had become broken-down or swamped in the surf and were blocking access to the beaches. They were also used to re-float small landing craft that had become stuck on the beach. Unusually for a tank, the crew included a diver whose job was to attach towing chains to stuck vehicles.
The vehicles were developed and operated by the Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers. The Sherman M4A2 model was chosen as a basis for the BARV as it was thought that the Sherman's welded hull would be easier to waterproof than other tanks. Unlike other Sherman models, the M4A2 was powered by a diesel engine because it was believed the tank would be less affected by the sudden temperature changes caused by the regular plunges into cold water.
A few Sherman BARV's continued to be used until 1963, when they were replaced by a vehicle based on the Centurion tank.
Resin conversion set that uses a Tasca III as the base kit. I don't have the necessary mid Sherman III in the stash so will be using parts from the spares box to make up the styrene section of this build. The Resicast set is a re-master and you get lots of nicely moulded parts as well as PE, styrene rod, string and decals.
I've made a start on construction by tackling the suspension first. Usual excellent moulding by Tasca though I have added missing bolt and hole detail. I'm also using early type track return skids...
And suspension units complete....
Gary
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Friday, October 17, 2014 - 05:13 PM UTC
Lower hull is of the flat pack variety....
Faultless fit of parts....
BARVs used both single and 3 piece transmission covers - I'm using the first option....
Cast effect accentuated with Mr Surfacer and other parts WIP....
Gary
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Friday, October 17, 2014 - 07:43 PM UTC
Suspension all complete....
Waste not, want not. Recycled Mid Production III upper hull from the scrap box....
Some detail replaced using another scrap hull while other details removed to allow the superstructure to be fitted later. Dry fitted to the lower hull with resin platform and radio fitted....
Gary
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Friday, October 17, 2014 - 08:41 PM UTC
Superstructure dry fitted. I've started to trim some of the resin away to improve the fit - will need a bit more work still....
Gary
Oregon, United States
Joined: December 08, 2005
KitMaker: 556 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Friday, October 17, 2014 - 09:04 PM UTC
Whoa! Deja vu....I've seen this before somewhere
A veteran - whether active duty, retired, or national guard or reserve -- is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: May 19, 2012
KitMaker: 54 posts
Armorama: 29 posts
Posted: Friday, October 17, 2014 - 09:07 PM UTC
Nice work so far Gary,she is some thing different
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 18, 2014 - 10:01 AM UTC
Okay, time for the superstructure to be fixed in place. After much sanding and trimming I finally had the resin part at the stage where it conforms to the plastic part. The fit isn't exactly perfect, but filler will fix those areas. The rear section, which I fitted first, was an issue as it made the superstructure sit about 1mm off to one side. Not good. So I removed the rear panel and cut off the rear sponson plates and refitted it so things lined up better. A real PITA but the reward is proper alignment. I'll replace the two panels with styrene parts. Here's where she currently stands with the initial filler being sanded down and awaiting a second layer....
Gary
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 19, 2014 - 05:19 AM UTC
Superstructure all fitted securely in place with any gaps dealt with.....
I have some Archer resin weld decals on their way which I'll be using on this.
WIP of the lower rear section....
Gary
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: August 12, 2005
KitMaker: 14,499 posts
Armorama: 11,675 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 19, 2014 - 06:24 AM UTC
Hi Gary ,
I intended to pick this one up at Duxford this year but Resicast had sold out of kits. Interesting build that's on the to do list, you seem to be making fine progress.
Cheers
Al
'Action this Day'
Winston Spencer Churchill
United Kingdom
Joined: August 24, 2011
KitMaker: 227 posts
Armorama: 226 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 19, 2014 - 09:19 AM UTC
On the subject of BARVs, I thought this image might be of interest.
It shows the original prototype BARV. Note that it is based on a Sherman V hull rather than the production Sherman III hulls.
Also of note is that like a lot of other D-Day vehicle conversions, actual production of the BARV didn't commence until March/April 1944 which meant that there were major concerns as to whether enough of the vehicles would be available for D-Day.
Regards,
John
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: June 01, 2011
KitMaker: 1,716 posts
Armorama: 1,638 posts
Posted: Monday, October 20, 2014 - 02:29 PM UTC
Hello Gary ..This looks like its going to be another great looking model coming out of your workshop ,,, and its of a vehicle i have been wanting to build for yrs now ,,thanks to this i am now going to but i will be scratch building it ,,will give me something to do as a project .
I am going to be watching this with great interest.
Cheers
Phill
I know the voices ain't real but they do come up with some great ideas
Never trust a man who left alone with a tea cozy and doesn't try it on ( Billy Connolly )
Overkill is often very understated
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Monday, October 20, 2014 - 07:55 PM UTC
Thanks for the comments guys.
John - nice pic. Would be nice to learn more about that vehicle.
Phill - should be a fun project!
Lower rear panels are tidied up and gaps filled....
Exhaust outlet is fixed in place and gaps filled....
Splashguards are next on the agenda....
These are clamped onto a supplied jig - the steel rule helps prevent the jig from deforming when applying heat from a hairdryer....
After cooling down, guard is removed and has the required curvature....
They are then fitted in place. The below pics are a WIP as a little filler is required here and there....
I'll continue with the tidying up tomorrow....
Gary
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 - 12:45 PM UTC
The antenna base on the glacis plate is replaced to represent an ALCO built hull and a plug is fitted to where the .30 cal is normally. Vision port surrounds are provided but are solid. So the thin resin film in the centre is removed and I then cut out a square hole in the cast hood and inserted a vision block from the spares box - tinting the inside green. The surround is then glued in place. WIP shown below....
Gary
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 - 04:32 PM UTC
Second side completed....
Hit a slight snag with the air intake stack which can be modelled raised or lowered. The top of the hull where the stack attaches has a slight sag in the moulding which causes the stack to lean off to a slight angle. To cure this, I made a new baseplate from styrene and filled the slight gap with filler. The stack itself is now upright, but the box cover then needed some attention as it was slightly out of shape. Easy fix making a new one from styrene - just need to add some wire handles to the top....
Gary
South Carolina, United States
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 - 11:39 PM UTC
I built the original Resin 'full kit' some years ago (picture on here somewhere) and it looks like to me that it was easier to build than this conversion?
Nice job so far, keep the updates coming.Keith.
AMPS Member, certified field judge & Always something on the workbench!
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 22, 2014 - 06:58 PM UTC
Probably just me Keith making it look difficult
More work done on the intake, including scratch building some support brackets....
Additional detail added to the stack using thin sheet styrene...
Gary
Texas, United States
Joined: June 12, 2007
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,696 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 23, 2014 - 09:12 AM UTC
Great work, I really enjoy watching your stuff and this one is no exception.
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 23, 2014 - 08:28 PM UTC
Thanks Russel.
This is certainly putting up a fight and isn't going to allow me to progress easily
Next issue involves the hatches....
So they've been remade with sheet styrene etc so the panel gaps don't represent a 1980s Lada
WIP....
I've also realised that the forward hatch is wrong. All the examples I've seen show the hatches flush where this one is raised. So out with a sharp knife and the present state....
I may well portray this hatch open and fill the void with a figure.
Gary
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Friday, October 24, 2014 - 05:32 PM UTC
Main crew hatch complete....
Main grab rails are replaced with styrene rod....
Smaller grab handles at rear are brass rod....
... with two more up front....
Engine access cover clamps are all glued in place....
What appears to be some form of (exhaust?) outlet pipe is remade using brass piping....
Gary
Bergamo, Italy
Joined: January 03, 2014
KitMaker: 118 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 25, 2014 - 12:07 AM UTC
Really well done Gary, nice scratchbuilt parts and adaptation work on your shark!
South Carolina, United States
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 25, 2014 - 12:22 AM UTC
I believe that is the outlet from a bilge pump!.
Keith.
AMPS Member, certified field judge & Always something on the workbench!
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 26, 2014 - 04:25 PM UTC
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 08:21 PM UTC
The splash guards are simply a single piece of brass sheet cut to size with some brass rod soldered together...
To assist with positioning, I scored a groove in the resin - this will allow more glue to be used to keep the guard securely in place....
A piece of tape keeps it still while the glue hardens....
Gary
Texas, United States
Joined: June 12, 2007
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,696 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 10:17 AM UTC
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 05:47 PM UTC
Thanks Russel
A Hollebone tow bar is stowed on the top each side.
Resicast also provide an empty mounting bracket in case you want to leave them off. The Hollebones have some casting issues at one end so I remade the bars from styrene rod and retained the original ends and used the empty clamps...
Gary