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Panther Ausf.A Late with zimmerit
warthog
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 - 08:15 PM UTC
Hi,
This is my first time to apply zimmerit, I tried it on my current project which is a DML Panther Ausf.A late. All pictures can be found in my gallery https://armorama.kitmaker.net/photos/showgallery.php/cat/12380/ppuser/1053

I would like to solicit some of your comments regarding the way I did the zimmerit. I am not sure if what I did is right or appropriate for the type of tank. Sample picture below (note the turret is not glued yet, just using masking tape)



Any input is very much appreciated.


Thanks
GIBeregovoy
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Posted: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 - 08:22 PM UTC
Looks very promising Warthog. :-) I'd have some of the Zimmerit coating peeled off to give that beaten-up effect. Also, what tool did you use to produce that pattern? Did you scratchbuild yourself a stamping tool?
warthog
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Posted: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 - 08:34 PM UTC
GI: Thanks, I'll add the peeling-off effect to give a beat-up look. No, I did not use or create any stamping tool, all is done in manually using a hobby knife , used-up internet pre-paid card and putty applicator:_|

Thanks
TUNA
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Posted: Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 02:20 AM UTC
Looks great to me.. I see some chipping actually!!.. Only thing I would say is try to do a lil thinner application... I've yet to attempt this, so your way ahead of me in the Zimmerit method...

Excellent Job!!!

charlie
thebear
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Posted: Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 04:39 AM UTC
Hello Warthog....not bad at all ...might be a bit thick for me but very well done ..one thing I noticed is that you followed the instructions right but there is a mistake that you did (not your fault it's the instructions) The bar with the wing nuts on the front fenders should be mounted with the wing nuts pointed up..You should go to PMMS and read the critique they did ..I think there are a few other mistakes to watch out for..

Rick
tazz
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Posted: Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 05:17 AM UTC
the zimm looks really nice,
did u use milliput.
and what kind of tool did u use to make the pattern.
and can i send u my tank so u can do the zim for me lol.
when u are done plz post more pics
warthog
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Posted: Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 01:12 PM UTC
With regards to thickness all of you are right...I actually tried sanding them...but when I do that the ridges are removed....I'll see if I can reduce the thickness. Actually there are some parts that are quite thin (not shown in the pictures)....

thebear: You noticed it...thanks I'll try to rectify it and go to PMMS also for other corrections before I proceed.

Tuna: I plan to add a few more chips as suggested also by GIBeregovoy...thanks

Tazz: I did not use milliput because we have a limited supply of that material here in the Philippines. I actually used Elmer's Carpenter's wood putty (interior)...its cheaper around $1 or maybe less in your country. Sure, you can send me your tank for the zim, but first I'll master the art zimming. I actually just experimented on using the Elmer's wood putty.....

Captain94
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Posted: Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 01:14 PM UTC
Very nice warthog!

Was the zimm applied useing a tool such as the one offered by Tamiya?
Let us know your secret, I'm ready to start a bit of zimm application here real soon and can use any and all advice!!

warthog
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Posted: Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 02:51 PM UTC
Captain94: Nope, I used the most crudest tool I could find...OK I'll share the materials and method....might be useful to others.....Zimmerit type : Vertical ridged with Horzontal cross-hatch

Tools/Materials:

1) Elmer's wood putty (interior) -- white cup w/orange lid
2) Thin plastic card - I used the used-up ISP bonanza internet card or pre-paid card; lets call it ISPC
3) water - any water
4) old brush
5) exacto knife or anything similar
6) Baby powder
7) Putty-knife or any hard plastic similar to those used for applying wall putty

How I did it:

1) scour or roughen up the model surface using the knife by putting lines (not to deep for DML models).
2) Apply a considerable amount of the putty to the scoured surface. Apply the putty to the surface similar to what carpenters do with wood -- this will make the putty adhere well to the scoured surface.
3) Smooth-out the surface using your finger dipped in water (konting basa lang) or use the old brush also dipped in water (konting basa lang) -- very small amount of water is necessary because too much will liquify the putty.

4) Thickness of the smoothed putty will depend on your preference. Not too thick like the one I did on the glacis of the panther definitely wrong).

5) Wait for a few seconds until the putty forms some skin (probably 3 - 5 seconds if little amount of water is used).

6) Use the ISPC to make vertical lines by pressing it perpendicular to the surface (be careful not to move them while in contact w/ surface coz it might damage the smoothed putty). I used 3 or 4 mm distance between vertical lines.

7) Apply the ISPC to make vertical lines, same method and concern as (6).
8) The result of (6) and (7) will be a grid or cross hatch.
9) Use the exacto knife to make the veritcal ridges - be careful not to destroy the crossh hatch (incase it happens, then just do (6) and (7) again as necessary).
10) Wait for it to completely dry and then sand the surface if needed or just scrape it with a knife -- be careful no to overdo because the ridges might be removed

Note: I applied the putty on the glacis machine-gun ball by mildly tapping the putty until it spreads thinly. Once I find the putty OK, then I apply the zimmerit pattern.

Lastly: The most important thing is patience -- I did not do it all in one application, there were instances that I removed and re-applied putty again and again on the same surface to attain the best appearance I like, but unfortunately they are still thick. One example is the glacis.


Hope this helps....


warthog
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Posted: Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 03:27 PM UTC
thebear: Can I have the site you were refering to regarding the panther so that I could already correct the mistakes.....thanks
Major_Goose
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Posted: Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 06:18 PM UTC
It is very nice of you , that you share your techniques for zimmeriting, and the results says that you have find a good way of doing this . I like it so , when mastered from you i ll also send you my beasts for it !!!
warthog
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Posted: Friday, January 16, 2004 - 07:31 PM UTC
Major_Goose: No problem...at least others may benefit from the technique...that makes me a happy modeler....
thebear
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Posted: Saturday, January 17, 2004 - 07:39 AM UTC
here is the review of the late A but you can find many other reviews on this site too ...worth checking out ....

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/dragon/dr6168.htm

hope this helps
warthog
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Posted: Sunday, January 18, 2004 - 11:34 AM UTC
thebear: Thanks for the link, BTW, I also corrected the error you pointed out earlier...you were right...it was upsidedown...thanks again
warthog
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Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 02:31 PM UTC
Hi Guys,

I just finished painting my panther Ausf. A late with dark yellow color. Can any of you suggest a camo scheme and in what place and year it was used. I also plan to paint the turret numbers and national cross rather than using the decals....

Thanks
thebear
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 08:28 AM UTC
Well the panther A late were used on almost every front ,so you can do just about any camo scheme you feel like ....Well since we are so close to the 60th Annaversary of D-Day why not place it in Normandy ...Almost every division had a few Panthers ...Just a thought here...have fun with it !!

Rick
Captain94
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 10:02 AM UTC
Thanks warthog!

your method sure seems to be the easiest I've read yet.

I'll give the "Warthog Method" a try!


warthog
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 11:09 AM UTC
thebear: Thanks for the input. I recently added a scratchbuilt schurzen using aluminum sheet (the one rolled like a tape, 0.5mm thick) that I found lying around in the house. I guess it would give the schurzen a roughed up look. I'll update the photo list for you guys to comment..

Captain94: Just use a dab of water using your finger to smoothen the putty at the same time minimizing the thickness to your preference. Too much water makes the putty very soggy...

thebear
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Posted: Thursday, February 05, 2004 - 08:21 AM UTC
Be careful with banging up the side panels remember this was armor plating and would not bend easily...they would probably be torn off more than bent ..just go easy on it ..

Rick
warthog
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Posted: Thursday, February 05, 2004 - 04:13 PM UTC
thebear: Good point, I'll take note of that. Thanks again
warthog
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Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2004 - 11:09 AM UTC
Guys,

I just finished the schurzen and applied putty to make it rough. I found a 1mm thick aluminum as replacement what I used before. I also gave the panther a coat of dark yellow....







Any comments regarding the painting...I plan to just use dark yellow...with a weathering...additional pics can be found in my gallery


Thanks

TUNA
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Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2004 - 12:09 PM UTC
coming along great Warthog! Especially the 'damaged' Zim. I like it.. gonna be brave and try it myself some day!
warthog
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Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2004 - 12:25 PM UTC
Tuna: I actually made a mistake with the damaged zim. I should have painted it with the similar color as the primer used in factory before I painted the dark yellow. You should try it someday, it's worth the time putting zimms...just be careful not to make it too thick like what I did...good luck and thanks
TUNA
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Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2004 - 01:30 PM UTC
Just paint those areas the Primer color now
warthog
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Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2004 - 01:01 PM UTC
I already completed painting the turret numbers and the balkenkreuz fot the panther instead of using the decals provided by DML. I did not use the decal because I changed the turret number same as the panther pic I saw in one ww-ii photo being inspected by British troop.







Thanks
 _GOTOTOP