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Armor/AFV: Canadian Armor
Discuss all types of Canadian Armor of all eras.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Early M4A4
gastec
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Posted: Monday, July 13, 2015 - 11:16 PM UTC
End connectors and pins done....



Construction of the track runs using my extremely hi tech jig....



First run complete....



Gary
AlanL
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Posted: Monday, July 13, 2015 - 11:27 PM UTC
Hi Gary,

This is looking excellent, nice clean build and detail.

Cheers

Al
Dazzyboyz47
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Posted: Monday, July 13, 2015 - 11:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text

End connectors and pins done....



Construction of the track runs using my extremely hi tech jig....



First run complete....



Gary


oh so that's how it's done! I tried to put those end connectors on after the track Doh!
gastec
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 12:12 AM UTC
Thanks Al


Darren - I learnt very quickly not to follow the instructions which show the end connectors fitted last. Tricky not to get the cement in the wrong place!
I did a step-by-step for these (done a few sets )which can be found here - http://www.plasticarmour.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=709 - which may be of help.

Gary
Dazzyboyz47
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 12:29 AM UTC
Thanks Gary I had the same tracks but got half way through and ended up binning the lots....
Went back to panda tracks, much more forgiving.
I love the build so far, amazing detail,
I couldn't help notice the front drive cover only half textured?
I normally do the whole thing.
Have I got it wrong?

Can wait too see the paint go on over that lovely detail.
Thanks for the tips
barkingdigger
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 12:43 AM UTC
Hi Gary,

Excellent work on the tracks! The one thing your tutorial fails to address is how you preserve your sanity in the process. Still, they REALLY look the part when finished...

gastec
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 12:47 AM UTC
Darren

Nothing wrong with your technique on the transmission cover. I used Mr Surfacer on the outer sections for two reasons. Firstly to help hide the join between parts and also I removed the original casting marks and put them elsewhere using Archer resin decals. Tasca have put them in the correct place but they are often found in different places depending on where they were made. The cast effect is quite subtle on Shermans - completely unlike you'd see on a T34

I find that the Bronco tracks are a little tedious as there are a lot of parts to remove from the sprues, but now I've found an easier way to build them I find them great. And their range covers just about every HVSS track made.

Gary
gastec
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 12:54 AM UTC
Thanks Tom. I find that parts removal while being semi distracted by the TV really helps. End conector and pin assembly isn't too bad and using the wood jig makes fimnal assembly a real breeze

Gary
ALBOWIE
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 03:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Tom. I find that parts removal while being semi distracted by the TV really helps. End conector and pin assembly isn't too bad and using the wood jig makes fimnal assembly a real breeze

Gary



Well done, i have never got any number of these assembled out of frustration, will have a go this way. Why Bronco didn't mould the end connectors in place is beyond me.
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 05:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

[Why Bronco didn't mould the end connectors in place is beyond me.



I think it would have made the molds very expensive if not impossible to make given the hollowed out end connectors and need to have very clean moldings for the pins.

KL
gastec
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 07:18 AM UTC
Totally agree Kurt. Limitations of injection moulding. Still, would be nice if they were as one

Gary
gastec
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 11:41 AM UTC
Other side done....



Gary
gastec
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 12:55 PM UTC
More brackets added to the rear panel....



Gary
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 03:48 PM UTC

Quoted Text

More brackets added to the rear panel....



Gary, it may be too inconsequential but Tasca molded a late tank with some (but not all) of the fixtures and brackets for an exhaust deflector. I think there are several photos on the Shermans in France site showing a similar configuration to what you are doing that would be helpful.

KL
gastec
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 11:06 PM UTC
Hi Kurt

I utilised this walkaround - https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/3960 - which only shows the lower 2 brackets along with the stowage bin mounts which I've added.
Does this mean those lower brackets are for the deflector? Easy to remove if not appropriate

Cheers

Gary

KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Wednesday, July 15, 2015 - 04:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Kurt

I utilised this walkaround - https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/3960 - which only shows the lower 2 brackets along with the stowage bin mounts which I've added.
Does this mean those lower brackets are for the deflector? Easy to remove if not appropriate

Cheers

Gary




I don't know what those triangular-ish stubs are in that walkaround.

I was thinking of this:






The two blocks up top had removable pins. They held the deflector when it was folded up. The little nubs beside them held the chains retaining the pins. The three clips along the center look to be some sort of footman loops for strapping down a tarp or luggage. The two wrench mounts are obvious, also with a chain nub. The two hinge knuckles and pins were for the deflector as well. I don't recall but the chains might have been attached to the deflector side of the hinge.

KL
gastec
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Posted: Wednesday, July 15, 2015 - 07:39 AM UTC
Can't see the photos Kurt

Gary
gastec
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Posted: Wednesday, July 15, 2015 - 11:29 AM UTC
Kurt

My Son of a Sherman book arrived from HLJ today and I understand much clearer now about the rear panel. I always thought the upper brackets were solely for the rear mounted stowage bin. Clearly not the case. I have now omitted these and added the idler adjustment wrench brackets. I've also added a siren to the front but would still like to view your images - especially the clips to mention.

Will post some pics of the further mods I've made after dinner.

Gary
gastec
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Posted: Wednesday, July 15, 2015 - 12:56 PM UTC
And here they are...





Gary
gastec
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Posted: Friday, July 17, 2015 - 04:57 AM UTC
The Son of a Sherman book has been an absolute godsend for this build. Here is a break down of the major differences I made to create an early M4A4...



i "Fluted" M3 75mm gun
ii Shorter bolt heads



iii Fender mounted siren
iv "Padded" hoisting eye
v D50880 M34 gun mount with initial D51288 rotor shield
vi No sight vane
vii Cast direct vision ports with bullet splash strips



viii Weld seam for 2 piece rear plate
ix] Exhaust deflector mounting brackets removed
x Higher position for lifting eyes on early DD50878 turret
xi Drain hole of antennal mount
xii Idler wrench mounting brackets
xiii Tow bracket


xiv D51050 cupola without hatch stops
xv Early position of hatch handles and no hatch stops
xvi No factory set-up pads on turret
xvii "Padded" hoisting eyes



xix Transmission drain plugs


I'm still trying to find move definitive information on this early type. My biggest question remains the validity of the tow bar assembly as I can't find when this was introduced. More likely to be a post factory addition? It appears that some earlier turrets weren't fitted with footman loops so may end up removing them from my kit. I do need to add a fine casting line to the turret rear where the two halves join.

If you spot anything else out of place, do shout out!

Gary
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Friday, July 17, 2015 - 05:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Can't see the photos Kurt

Gary



Eh, the links didn't represent themselves well. You can click on the boxes and 'View Image' to see them.


http://the.shadock.free.fr/Tanks_in_France/sherman_mulhouse/images/M4A4%20Sherman%20Mulhouse%2043.JPG


http://the.shadock.free.fr/Tanks_in_France/sherman_mulhouse/images/M4A4%20Sherman%20Mulhouse%2044.JPG


http://the.shadock.free.fr/Tanks_in_France/sherman_mulhouse/images/M4A4%20Sherman%20Mulhouse%2011.JPG

KL
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Friday, July 17, 2015 - 06:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm still trying to find move definitive information on this early type. My biggest question remains the validity of the tow bar assembly as I can't find when this was introduced. More likely to be a post factory addition? It appears that some earlier turrets weren't fitted with footman loops so may end up removing them from my kit. I do need to add a fine casting line to the turret rear where the two halves join.



- Chrysler did not install pintles on DV M4A4s. No idea of what the British did, but wouldn't they be centered?
- The photo-illustrations in the M4A4 parts manual show footman loops on a DV tank.
- Good choices for an M4A4 turret are ASF-C and CFM-H or CFM-W. You can read descriptions in your new book and see nice examples here:
http://the.shadock.free.fr/Tanks_in_France/sherman_dijon/index.html
http://the.shadock.free.fr/Tanks_in_France/sherman_beaune/index.html
http://the.shadock.free.fr/Tanks_in_France/sherman_rixheim/index.html

and elsewhere on this site: http://the.shadock.free.fr/Tanks_in_France.html

KL
gastec
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Posted: Friday, July 17, 2015 - 09:55 AM UTC
Thanks Kurt. Show picture option doesn't work

Understand now what you mean. The strap loops are unusual and haven't seen them there before.

The tow bar brackets are not an uncommon fitting on the Commonwealth M4A4s. Tasca actually provide the parts in their V and Vc kits. There is also a walkaround of an DV V on Armorama showing one - https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/3960 As you say, not factory fitted but I don't know from when they were added...

However, I've since decided to omit this bracket altogether. I've also removed the turret loops as the book says they are likely to have been not fitted to early turrets which I'm depicting.
OddBall84
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Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 11:55 PM UTC
It would be a waste to direct the excess parts to the scrap bin, I could probably take everything and work them into a useable upper hull.
OddBall84
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Posted: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 - 03:48 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

[Why Bronco didn't mould the end connectors in place is beyond me.



I think it would have made the molds very expensive if not impossible to make given the hollowed out end connectors and need to have very clean moldings for the pins.

KL



Modelkasten seem to have a slightly better solution with a different design of the points on which the end connectors are glued differently.
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