One other annoyance about the Asuka/Tasca kits, Alan:
The U-shaped tow lugs are very brittle and will break. You should shave off the mounting nubs on their inner surfaces before attaching them. Otherwise, the slight outward bowing that would be required to attach them -- will break them.
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NZ Firefly VC - Italy 1945
ericadeane
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
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Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2015 - 06:31 PM UTC
OddBall84
Netherlands
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2015 - 10:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Another enhancement isthe thickening up the armor slabs at the front of the drivers’ hoods using putty. The M4A4’s hood front faces have distinct bulges created by the casting process with the right bulge being thicker as evidenced by a deeper shadow in all photos. I simply applied a thicker coat of putty on the right hood than the left hood. You may ignore this if you plan on using the applique armor slabs. But I thought you might want to know.
I attempted to capture this as best as possible from my Formations hull, there seems to be a slight sloping angle vs. the straight version that Tasca made. Hope it helps.
Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2015 - 12:48 AM UTC
Hi Roy,
Yes, I discovered that, one gone already lol.
Thanks Willem.
Al
Yes, I discovered that, one gone already lol.
Thanks Willem.
Al
Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2015 - 07:16 PM UTC
Hi folks,
This is about as much as I intend to do on the interior. Good learning experience. I'm not really happy with the ammo bin so may just extract the shells and close up that hatch, but it has been a useful exercise for future more detailed projects. It's amazing how much stuff you forget when you move away from a particular model.
Al
This is about as much as I intend to do on the interior. Good learning experience. I'm not really happy with the ammo bin so may just extract the shells and close up that hatch, but it has been a useful exercise for future more detailed projects. It's amazing how much stuff you forget when you move away from a particular model.
Al
wedgetail53
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
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Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Posted: Friday, August 28, 2015 - 04:40 AM UTC
Alan
I'm curious - given that the shells in the lap gunner's area are stowed vertically, and the length of the shells, how on earth did the crew get them out? Shouldn't they perhaps be stowed horizontally?
Regards
Rob
I'm curious - given that the shells in the lap gunner's area are stowed vertically, and the length of the shells, how on earth did the crew get them out? Shouldn't they perhaps be stowed horizontally?
Regards
Rob
Posted: Friday, August 28, 2015 - 12:12 PM UTC
Hi Rob,
It's probably the reason why the top of the bin is shown as a diamond lattice so they could tilt them enough to get them in and out. I hadn't seen that configuration before but vertically is how they are shown in the stowage diagram. The other thought is that they were replacements for the ready rounds carried in the turret and were transferred to the turret when stopped by being man handled out of the open hatch and back into the turret?
Can't say for sure though but I'm sure someone will know.
Al
It's probably the reason why the top of the bin is shown as a diamond lattice so they could tilt them enough to get them in and out. I hadn't seen that configuration before but vertically is how they are shown in the stowage diagram. The other thought is that they were replacements for the ready rounds carried in the turret and were transferred to the turret when stopped by being man handled out of the open hatch and back into the turret?
Can't say for sure though but I'm sure someone will know.
Al
Posted: Sunday, August 30, 2015 - 05:14 PM UTC
Hi folks,
Most of the main build is done. This was an exceptionally good kit to work with. For tracks I'll use the DML indi ones with duckbills which seem to fit the drive wheel fine.
This version had the plate armour on the front so thickening the hatches wasn't necessary. I'm awaiting the arrival of some new Mr Surfacer to treat some parts of the armour. The Resicast 17 pdr breech was a good addition and fitted easily as did their basic M4 interior. I closed up the co-drivers hatch as I didn't like the bin top I'd made although I left the bin in place as a filler.
The kit has raised weld detail; what are your thoughts on this - does it need enhanced a bit or is it fine as is?
Some images of progress.
Cheers
Al
Most of the main build is done. This was an exceptionally good kit to work with. For tracks I'll use the DML indi ones with duckbills which seem to fit the drive wheel fine.
This version had the plate armour on the front so thickening the hatches wasn't necessary. I'm awaiting the arrival of some new Mr Surfacer to treat some parts of the armour. The Resicast 17 pdr breech was a good addition and fitted easily as did their basic M4 interior. I closed up the co-drivers hatch as I didn't like the bin top I'd made although I left the bin in place as a filler.
The kit has raised weld detail; what are your thoughts on this - does it need enhanced a bit or is it fine as is?
Some images of progress.
Cheers
Al
Posted: Sunday, August 30, 2015 - 10:10 PM UTC
Posted: Thursday, September 03, 2015 - 07:35 PM UTC
Posted: Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 01:53 PM UTC
Posted: Wednesday, October 07, 2015 - 08:28 PM UTC
robw_uk
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 06:39 PM UTC
great work.... love the interior and the stowage