Has any of you tried AB's by Tamiya or Mr Hobby? Are they good, or should I stick with something by one of the big names - Iwata / Badger / Paache?
Any recommendations for a specific model that is not too expensive?
Thanks in advance
Hisham
AFV Painting & Weathering
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Advice on buying new AB
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 12:11 AM UTC
TopSmith
Washington, United States
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 03:49 AM UTC
By far the best airbrush I have used is the Iwata Highline C. It has allowed me to do work that I had only dreamed about. It is very controllable and can do amazing work. I use an Iwata Revolution with a .5 nozzle for my base coats. Everything else I pitched out or gave away. I have 2 Best of Show awards to back it up.
denstore
Skåne, Sweden
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 05:23 AM UTC
Both the Mr Hobby and Tamiya airbrushes are very nice. Top quality, typical high end japanese airbrushes. Problem buying them is finding a reliable source for spares.You can probably order spares for any of them, but it is much easier to find spares for Iwata.
I usually recommend them (Iwata) because of the above reason, even if I prefere Olympos myself.
And as Mr Smith says, the Iwata HP-C+ is a great airbrush. You can't go wrong with it.
I usually recommend them (Iwata) because of the above reason, even if I prefere Olympos myself.
And as Mr Smith says, the Iwata HP-C+ is a great airbrush. You can't go wrong with it.
jomark
Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 05:44 AM UTC
If you do not have easy access to iwata or badger airbrush, then I can safely say that tamiya and GSI Creos (Mr. Hobby) is your best bet. If I recall correctly, both tamiya and gsi airbrushes are made by the same factory making iwatas so I'm not sure if the parts will be compatible.
If you can get iwata, H&S, or badgers where you are from then it would be more convenient to get them due to parts and servicing.
I've used GSI brushes ranging from their basic mr. pro spray, to their procon boy line and I'm still using them (pro spray MK-6 and MK-2 is my lazy day airbrush). The tamiyas, I've only tried the basic spray works and HG but they are just as good.
If you can get iwata, H&S, or badgers where you are from then it would be more convenient to get them due to parts and servicing.
I've used GSI brushes ranging from their basic mr. pro spray, to their procon boy line and I'm still using them (pro spray MK-6 and MK-2 is my lazy day airbrush). The tamiyas, I've only tried the basic spray works and HG but they are just as good.
edmund
United States
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 05:56 AM UTC
Before you jump into the pond check the cost of replacement parts .
jasperck
Massachusetts, United States
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 08:15 AM UTC
In terms of value for money, the Paasche Talon is the best game in town (imho)... Just make sure you get the set with the extra needles!
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 12:55 PM UTC
Hi Hisham,
I just happen to be looking into the new airbrush subject myself. After some analysis, I narrowed the selection down to Iwata Neo and Harder and Steenbeck Ultra with the Ultra being the final winner (for me!).
Where a I live, both have a better price than the Tamiya brush so it might be worth a look.
Hope this helps!
Cristian
I just happen to be looking into the new airbrush subject myself. After some analysis, I narrowed the selection down to Iwata Neo and Harder and Steenbeck Ultra with the Ultra being the final winner (for me!).
Where a I live, both have a better price than the Tamiya brush so it might be worth a look.
Hope this helps!
Cristian
alewar
Canelones, Uruguay
Joined: December 27, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 04:30 PM UTC
Hi, a month ago I choose an Iwata Neo Trn1 after looking around. The ab works at very low pressure and you can get very small línes
HTH Regards Álvaro
HTH Regards Álvaro
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 07:29 PM UTC
I've been using an Iwata Revolution CR for over a year. I wouldn't use anything else now. It's simple to strip and clean, it's well constructed and strong, and it gives a consistent and fine spray - even when beginning. Keep away from Aztec - they're garbage!
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 07:45 PM UTC
Thanks a lot for all your advice, guys
I'm mainly looking for an AB for base coats and larger areas, so, I'm leaning towards the Iwata Revolution w/0.5 nozzle... I'll check the prices on online stores and see what's best.
Thanks again
Hisham
I'm mainly looking for an AB for base coats and larger areas, so, I'm leaning towards the Iwata Revolution w/0.5 nozzle... I'll check the prices on online stores and see what's best.
Thanks again
Hisham
easyco69
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 08:29 PM UTC
buy a regulator first lol
I use Iwata & badger with a -paasche compressor, regulator & water trap.
I use Iwata & badger with a -paasche compressor, regulator & water trap.
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 08:38 PM UTC
Definitely.. I'm either going to buy a regulator, or a new compressor with a tank
Hisham
Hisham
jomark
Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Monday, August 03, 2015 - 05:47 AM UTC
If you're looking for a 0.5mm AB but would also like to go for detail work later on you could get an Iwata HP-CS with both the 0.3 and 0.5mm nozzle/needle/cap sets
BBD468
Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 03, 2015 - 08:54 AM UTC
heres my 2 cents.
I use Iwatas. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, an Iwata HP-Plus for fine soft edge camo, and A Neo by Iwata for Primers and Clears in which it does the job nicely. Having said all that the Iwata Eclipse is by far the best overall AB out of the bunch. it will do everything the other 2 will do, but the other 2 wont quite do what the Eclipse does as efficient. A great AB for you IMO.
Ive also heard great things about the Iwata Revolution as well as The Paasche Talon. A good friend of mine choose the talon and he get great results with it.
Anyhoo, there ya have it...my 2 cents. Good luck fella!
I use Iwatas. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, an Iwata HP-Plus for fine soft edge camo, and A Neo by Iwata for Primers and Clears in which it does the job nicely. Having said all that the Iwata Eclipse is by far the best overall AB out of the bunch. it will do everything the other 2 will do, but the other 2 wont quite do what the Eclipse does as efficient. A great AB for you IMO.
Ive also heard great things about the Iwata Revolution as well as The Paasche Talon. A good friend of mine choose the talon and he get great results with it.
Anyhoo, there ya have it...my 2 cents. Good luck fella!
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 01:36 AM UTC
Is this the Revolution I should get? When it says Iwata-Medea, is that a true Iwata or some kind of copy?
On Amazon
Hisham
On Amazon
Hisham
Jedge3
Michigan, United States
Joined: July 17, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 01:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Hisham,
I just happen to be looking into the new airbrush subject myself. After some analysis, I narrowed the selection down to Iwata Neo and Harder and Steenbeck Ultra with the Ultra being the final winner (for me!).
Where a I live, both have a better price than the Tamiya brush so it might be worth a look.
Hope this helps!
Cristian
I have the H&S Infinity and it is a great AB. I know the Ultra is very nice as well. The best part about the H&S brushes is that the needles and some of the other parts are interchangeable between the Infinity and the Ultra and there is four different needles sizes I think, up to a .6.
Jeff
PRH001
New Mexico, United States
Joined: June 16, 2014
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 04:50 AM UTC
I can tell you that if you are only going to get one airbrush, I would recommend you get something with a.30 to .35 tip unless you are doing only 1/72 scale stuff. That brush will still be able to pretty fine lines and cover medium to large areas for a base coat. Frustration and poor results will come from trying to lay down a smooth base coat with too small a tip. You will have overspray issues (paint drying outside the target area not just off the model) using a small tip brush for large surfaces. Your paints and primers will be grainy and will cause headaches.
I have and use Tamiya, Iwata, Badger, Harder & Steenbeck, Grex and even a few more and they all work well, but they don't all get used for the same purpose
Gravity feed models are what I personally prefer as they require lower pressure to function properly most of the time.
Good luck and enjoy whatever you decide to purchase.
I have and use Tamiya, Iwata, Badger, Harder & Steenbeck, Grex and even a few more and they all work well, but they don't all get used for the same purpose
Gravity feed models are what I personally prefer as they require lower pressure to function properly most of the time.
Good luck and enjoy whatever you decide to purchase.
jomark
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: April 13, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 05:36 AM UTC
Yes Iwata-Medea is authentic. That name came after their merger I think.
A question though, is this your first airbrush? I think everyone is assuming that it is your first purchase but based on your other post I think you already have your mind set on having a specific broad painting airbrush.
If this is your first "good brand" purchase then I'd go for PRH001's advice, go for 0.3-0.35mm
A question though, is this your first airbrush? I think everyone is assuming that it is your first purchase but based on your other post I think you already have your mind set on having a specific broad painting airbrush.
If this is your first "good brand" purchase then I'd go for PRH001's advice, go for 0.3-0.35mm
TopSmith
Washington, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 07:06 AM UTC
You can easily get several nozzles and needles with out a lot of cost. I like a .5 for base coats and a .3 for detail with my Highline C. I have a .2 but seldom use it.
One nice feature about the Highline series is the MAC valve that works like a regulator to control air.
One nice feature about the Highline series is the MAC valve that works like a regulator to control air.
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 09:21 AM UTC
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with 0.5mm and 0.3 needle/cap sets and a decent compressor and regulator w/ moisture-trap and you'll be set for base coats and fine stuff, too. IF you are happy going "conventional pencil-like AB".
Ditto for GREX Tritium TG3 or TG5 with the alternative-sized needle set (-3 is 0.3mm and buy a 0.5mm extra set, TG5 is just the opposite pairing). GREX TG is, IMHO, more fun and a bit easier for my older, stiffer hands than is any pencil-type.
Both of these are quality, top-drawer, reliable AB which are reasonably easy to clean and parts and service are pretty reasonably available.
NO good AB will be cheap, and no good AB will do great work without a good regulator on that compressor.
Bob
PS: My "wins record" is pretty solid - maybe because some of my paint jobs actually came out OK despite my ham-handedness!
Ditto for GREX Tritium TG3 or TG5 with the alternative-sized needle set (-3 is 0.3mm and buy a 0.5mm extra set, TG5 is just the opposite pairing). GREX TG is, IMHO, more fun and a bit easier for my older, stiffer hands than is any pencil-type.
Both of these are quality, top-drawer, reliable AB which are reasonably easy to clean and parts and service are pretty reasonably available.
NO good AB will be cheap, and no good AB will do great work without a good regulator on that compressor.
Bob
PS: My "wins record" is pretty solid - maybe because some of my paint jobs actually came out OK despite my ham-handedness!
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 12:30 PM UTC
Actually, I have two airbrushes.. one is a "Spraymaster" regular pencil type and the other is a no name Chinese pistol grip type AB that I just got recently. First I was dealing with grainy paint jobs and bad coverage, but now the main problem I'm having with both of them is that no paint will come out.. The Chinese one I was able to do a couple of relatively decent paint jobs with, but suddenly now no paint will come out. I put pure thinner in it and it shoots out.. then when I put just one or two drops of paint, nothing comes out at all.. it's just driving me crazy. I cleaned them both and did everything by the book, but nothing seems to work
I'm about to order that Revolution I saw at Amazon.. I mostly do single color paint jobs, so I really don't need anything for detail work and camouflages and things like that.. at least not yet.. that might come later on.
Thanks for all your advice
Hisham
I'm about to order that Revolution I saw at Amazon.. I mostly do single color paint jobs, so I really don't need anything for detail work and camouflages and things like that.. at least not yet.. that might come later on.
Thanks for all your advice
Hisham
WildBill1941
Budapest, Hungary
Joined: July 04, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 01:24 PM UTC
I have a chinese AB130 /0.3/, H&S Infinity /0.15, 0.2, 0.4/, IWATA Eclipse HP-CS /0.35, 0.5/.
While the Infinity is a percise tool, it is also sensitive and fragile. Iwata is a real robust workhorse. Both Infinity and Eclipse having self centering nozle, which is a must have for me.
Note that Revolution is an original Iwata, but still cheap entry level AB. I would consider Iwata Eclipse or beyond.
Tamiya used to rebox Sparmax ABs I am not sure is ther any original Tamiya AB or just rebranded OEMs.
While the Infinity is a percise tool, it is also sensitive and fragile. Iwata is a real robust workhorse. Both Infinity and Eclipse having self centering nozle, which is a must have for me.
Note that Revolution is an original Iwata, but still cheap entry level AB. I would consider Iwata Eclipse or beyond.
Tamiya used to rebox Sparmax ABs I am not sure is ther any original Tamiya AB or just rebranded OEMs.
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
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Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 07:02 PM UTC
One final question before I actually make the order.. Is this Revolution CR with the 0.5 nozzle the best one I can get in this $100 price range.. for general base coats and single color paint jobs? I can get another one for detailing and camouflages later on after I master the general stuff
Hisham
Hisham
denstore
Skåne, Sweden
Joined: January 05, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 - 04:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
One final question before I actually make the order.. Is this Revolution CR with the 0.5 nozzle the best one I can get in this $100 price range.. for general base coats and single color paint jobs? I can get another one for detailing and camouflages later on after I master the general stuff
Hisham
The HP-CR is a good choice for the work you say you need it for. There are larger, more expensive alternatives, but the CR will work fine for what most armour modellers need it to do.
TopSmith
Washington, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 07, 2015 - 08:30 PM UTC
As an after thought, An ultrasonic cleaner might also be a good investment. I spray mostly acrylics and put window cleaner(windex) in the ultrasonic cleaner and clean my disassembled airbrush at the end of each painting session. It will help get the paint out of places that are difficult to get to. I then reassemble and spray some water to get all the cleaner out and I am ready to store the airbrush until next time.