Hosted by Jacques Duquette
FTA M4A2 75
Motives
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 444 posts
Armorama: 428 posts
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 444 posts
Armorama: 428 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 04:02 PM UTC
Looks amazing as usual! How do you manage to solder those tiny parts? I'm getting into soldering and i got the basics down and can get pretty good solders on large & medium parts. The really tiny one's though... No luck
OddBall84
Netherlands
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 08:59 PM UTC
If it's anything like soldering wires together, put some solder fluid on both ends, hold the iron with a drip of tin against it from underneath and it will suck itself upwards.
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 11:05 PM UTC
Thank Johan. I use solder paste and a gas butane torch. The flame doesn't always have to touch the parts - radiant heat is often enough. Been able to solder just about anything that way...
Gary
Gary
Motives
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 444 posts
Armorama: 428 posts
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 444 posts
Armorama: 428 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 11:08 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thank Johan. I use solder paste and a gas butane torch. The flame doesn't always have to touch the parts - radiant heat is often enough. Been able to solder just about anything that way...
Gary
Thanks for the tip! I actually have the exact same setup as you then. The problem I've been having is that the solder paste seems to either a. Get to warm and burn away. Or b. Not warm enough and "soot" IE. not creating a good solder...
Guess I just need to keep practicing
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 01:56 AM UTC
Don't forget to clean teh parts first using solder flux. This ensures the solder adheres to the brass and you can also use extra flux to help the solder flow more smoothly too.
Gary
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 11:40 AM UTC
Front end just about done now. Will add the fenders once the hull halves are joined together....
Onto finish off detailing the rear upper hull next.
Gary
Onto finish off detailing the rear upper hull next.
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 12:53 PM UTC
FTA used a padded lifting eye on the rear for reasons unknown which even differed from the type used on small hatch M4A2s. The SoS book has some excellent reference shots of this and I modified kit's lifting eye and mated it to a piece of scrap styrene. A little filler and carving later....
The one on the right has a coating of Mr Surfacer in prior to mounting on the hull. And both in place....
Gary
The one on the right has a coating of Mr Surfacer in prior to mounting on the hull. And both in place....
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
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Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 01:30 PM UTC
Tail lights. The mounting 'bracket' is rather basic on the kit items so they are spruced up with some brass rod and spare PE....
And fitted....
Gary
And fitted....
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
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Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 02:14 PM UTC
Missing welds are added using Archer surface detail decals before the light guards are bent to shape and fixed in place with CA gel....
Gary
Gary
OddBall84
Netherlands
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 05:12 PM UTC
Pity that the Archer welds are fairly regular in shape, was hoping they would be a bit more irregular/realistic.
postbusf
Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: November 15, 2007
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 154 posts
Joined: November 15, 2007
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 154 posts
Posted: Friday, August 14, 2015 - 01:07 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Pity that the Archer welds are fairly regular in shape, was hoping they would be a bit more irregular/realistic.
Haha!! that is what came to mind when you looked at those pictures?
I'll guess you meant, WOW, what an awesome detailed build.
I love it!
But I get your point though.
Something for archer to sort out in the near future.
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
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Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Friday, August 14, 2015 - 01:12 AM UTC
Cheers Frank
After adding a tow cable bracket to the rear upper hull, attention turned to the sides. PE sand shield mounting brackets are added along with welds - the welds are also added to the side for the glacis plate. And then the applique armour plate is added which makes this instantly recognisable as a 'Dry Stowage' vehicle....
Onto the other side next.
Gary
After adding a tow cable bracket to the rear upper hull, attention turned to the sides. PE sand shield mounting brackets are added along with welds - the welds are also added to the side for the glacis plate. And then the applique armour plate is added which makes this instantly recognisable as a 'Dry Stowage' vehicle....
Onto the other side next.
Gary
OddBall84
Netherlands
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Friday, August 14, 2015 - 01:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextPity that the Archer welds are fairly regular in shape, was hoping they would be a bit more irregular/realistic.
Haha!! that is what came to mind when you looked at those pictures?
I'll guess you meant, WOW, what an awesome detailed build.
I love it!
But I get your point though.
Something for archer to sort out in the near future.
Something along those lines
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Friday, August 14, 2015 - 03:04 AM UTC
Other side done....
Gary
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Friday, August 14, 2015 - 05:21 AM UTC
D47527 VVSS units with D38501 "Open Spoke" wheels WIP.....
Gary
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
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Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 15, 2015 - 12:15 AM UTC
More progress....
Gary
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
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Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 15, 2015 - 05:17 AM UTC
All done and I had a set of T49 tracks already made up....
Gary
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Monday, August 17, 2015 - 11:35 AM UTC
For this build, I'm going to require a D50878 75mm turret which has cast in check armour but no pistol port. I'm using a Tasca Firefly turret which has the recontoured shell....
... and no pistol port....
However, the loaders hatch opening along with the radio cut out in the bustle is not required here so the first step is to fill in those areas along with the smoke mortar aperture, and a couple of now redundant parts locating holes...
A relatively simple exercise using sheet styrene and filler.
Gary
... and no pistol port....
However, the loaders hatch opening along with the radio cut out in the bustle is not required here so the first step is to fill in those areas along with the smoke mortar aperture, and a couple of now redundant parts locating holes...
A relatively simple exercise using sheet styrene and filler.
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Monday, August 17, 2015 - 11:56 AM UTC
Mr Surfacer is then 'stippled' on for the required cast effect....
Gary
Gary
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
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Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Monday, August 17, 2015 - 02:26 PM UTC
More progress on the turret. Footman loops added to the rear using the same technique as on the hull and casting marks courtesy of Archer depict a turret cast at Union Steel Castings...
Gary
Gary
210cav
Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Monday, August 17, 2015 - 05:22 PM UTC
Gary-- superb workmanship!
DJ
DJ
OddBall84
Netherlands
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: May 20, 2015
KitMaker: 335 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Monday, August 17, 2015 - 05:34 PM UTC
Every time I open your topics I see more deliciousness, great progress again Hope to see you move into the new house soon so you can work your painting magic.
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
Armorama: 871 posts
Joined: February 03, 2014
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Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 - 11:39 AM UTC
Thank you gentlemen
More progress. Stock early style 'flared' M3 75mm gun and M34 mount with turned brass .30 cal. Commander cupola needs a little work - as good as the Tasca parts are, their attempt at the hatch locks are rather pathetic so I scratched new ones from scrap styrene. Handle is from fuse wire with a new lip between the hatches from strip styrene....
Still need to add the periscope guard and .50 cal travel lock along with the rest of the vane sight.
Gary
More progress. Stock early style 'flared' M3 75mm gun and M34 mount with turned brass .30 cal. Commander cupola needs a little work - as good as the Tasca parts are, their attempt at the hatch locks are rather pathetic so I scratched new ones from scrap styrene. Handle is from fuse wire with a new lip between the hatches from strip styrene....
Still need to add the periscope guard and .50 cal travel lock along with the rest of the vane sight.
Gary