My next project begins while I wait for delivery of some tracks for the M4A6.

This time is a Fisher Tank Arsenal built large hatch M4A2 with a 75mm gun produced in 1943 and part of the lend lease program sent to the Soviets. I'm combining the Tasca/Asuka Sherman III kit (British name for the M4A2) along with a Tasca/Asuka M4A3. The plan is to use the M4A3 hull but shortening the rear end and adjusting the angle of the back plate as well as fitting grouser stowage cover plates. The rest of the M4A3 hull is essentially good to go as it includes the wide bullet splash guards for the front periscopes. I'll need to remove a couple of weld seams as the rear sponson was a single piece plate and it used unique padded type lifting rings on the rear.



I can then use the M4A2 hull at a later date by extending it slightly with a steeper rear panel and make a small hatch M4A3. Waste not, want not as they say

I'll need a D50878 turret with thickened cheek armour but without a pistol port. I have one in my stash designed for a Firefly so plan is to modify that by filling in the loaders hatch and radio cut out at the rear to suit. Saves me having to order another turret.

Gary

With the hulls clamped together, you can see the difference between the A2 and A3.



I score a line on the A3 hull using the A2 as a guide, extending the line along the top plate to the corner....



A sharp blade is then used to make the cut. Note that the other side has already been cut in the above pic. Below, the removed part is grafted onto the A2 hull in preparation for the future project as mentioned in the first post...



Gary

Geez Gary, you put out more Shermans than Detroit Arsenal !!!!

More great stuff to watch .......

Brent

Weird, I thought only the M4A4 was longer. Will also be watching this one with interest.

Thanks Brent

Willem. It's only slightly longer due to the angle of the rear plate. The lower hull is the same as the other M4s - only the A4 version has a longer lower (and upper) hull due to the bigger engine.

Gary

the M4A3 and the M4A2 hulls were the same length

Gary, don't forget that early LH M4A2 retained many of their small hatch attributes. These were introduced "in stream" during the latter portion of PO T-3608.

PO T-4340 was exclusively large hatch and as such had the later attributes such as the two-piece rear sponson plate.

All had the later E8543 FDA.

Neither PO appears to have had the central ventilator covers installed.

The Russians got both types. Photos also show tanks from PO T-4340 went to the British (and briefly back to the U.S. Army during the tank shortage of January '45).

Also beware that the Tasca M4A2 deck plates are not a perfect fit like some of the other parts swaps are.


Pat
MMiR

Thanks Pat. I have the SoS book to guide me along the way

Some more progress. The recesses for the engine access doors have been filled, sponson weld seam removed and work has begun on the grouser stowage holes...



Gary

Grouser stowage covers in place. Drain holes in the bullet splashes have been added along with footman loops for the tools. These are made by drilling two small holes in the hull and passing some 5amp fusewire through and securing it underneath with CA gel. The welds either side of the 'legs' are simply lead foil discs punched out with my Mr Nutter tool....



Footman loop is added the other side as tool layout is altered in this version along with an additional tow cable bracket by the driver's hatch...



Gary

Lower hull is built as per M4A2 kit instructions - note that you need part J13 from the M4A3 kit due to the different FDA cover being used. Also, large hatch vehicles used double towing eyelets so the holes have been filled on the rear plate here for the original single type...



Rear plate fits nicely into position....



Upper and lower hulls dry fitted...



Gary

Gary, what diameter is the "5A" fuse wire you use so frequently? What is it made from?

KL

Hi Kurt

I buy it from a DIY hardware store. Doesn't say the diameter - just the rating. It's soft metal that can be annealed to soften further if required. Very easy to work with.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/ELECTICAL-FUSE-WIRE-30AMP-CARD/dp/B0030E3L5E


Radiators are exhaust systems fitted (missing studs/nuts added to exhausts) along with double towing eyelets...



Rear engine deck panel fits like a glove....



Gary

The distinctive engine access doors which easily identifies this as a diesel engine M4A2 fit perfectly....



Tasca provide two types of bullet splash for the turret base...



The early type is part 05 with the later being 06. While 06 is required here, it is technically incorrect for this build as it requires 9 bolts rather than the 5 used later in production. Simple fix though - use the bolt heads on the early part to cover the shortfall....

And fitted in place....



Gary

Fire extinguisher pull handles using Aber PE soldered to 10 amp fusewire....



Quite a few filler caps on this version! Extra one added to the rear panel too...



E8543 Final Drive Assembly is a resin offering from TMD....



Gary

Tool time WIP....



Tool layout change with this version. Crow bar is moved to the left side of the hull with mallet and idler adjuster fitted on the rear plate.

Gary

That's interesting . . . So, when you have an electrical malfunction you use this stuff between two screws or clips to restore the circuit? Your circuits don't use sealed fuses or circuit breakers?

Anyhoo, that place doesn't ship to the US and if the above scenario is true I imagine it isn't sold over here. I guess it isn't lead or lead alloy if you can solder it.

Perhaps someone with a micrometer who has some can measure it.

Thx,
KL

After some searching




In fact, that's exactly what it's for.



One source listed it as 35 SWG, which would be .008 inch diameter (.28 full-size equivalent) and described it as tinned copper wire, which would explain why it is so easy to solder.

KL

Another source is old electronics like VCR's CD players, etc. They will often have small solenoids that have very fine copper wire for the coil. A little lacquer thinner will dissolve the coating.

Tools done. Lead foil straps with Voyager PE buckles...





Gary

I've changed my mind and I've decided to go with a very early version and leave the vent cover off. I started by making the inner section from styrene to use as a template....



Once the required area was cut out, the section was cemented in place and a piece of styrene was placed underneath and Mr Surfacer was added to give the necessary cast texture...



Gary

Thanks Vincent.

The original style of siren was carried over from the small hatch variant, but moved to the glacis plate from the right front fender. Wiring conduit is added using lead wire. .30 cal brass MG barrel is from a Polish company called Master and probably the best on the market IMHO. I've also started on the PE light guards - using Tasca OE items. Their small hatch kits included a former for the guards but have omitted them from the M4A3 76 kit for some reason. Worth hanging onto these...



Once the other light guard is in place, I'll make up the 3 part siren guard and fit that too.

Gary

Siren guard parts....



Soldered together, not really much contest with the kit part....



Installation complete...



Gary

Before adding the headlight plug holders, thought I'd do the hatches first. The missing hinge pin detail is added by cutting a slot first with a saw and then adding the pin part made from scrap styrene. Handle is made using 5amp fuse wire and the kit's periscope cover is used as PE ones don't give any extra detail when they are set closed like this...



Gary

Driver's hatch complete and fixed in place....



Gary