I'm not sure what you mean by "depth".
I'm trying to say that the top-to-bottom distance was the different one.
David
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A Tail of Two Tigers
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
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Posted: Friday, September 25, 2015 - 04:44 PM UTC
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
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Posted: Friday, September 25, 2015 - 07:54 PM UTC
Here are the sizes of the TMD storage boxes.
I checked the sizes with a pair of metric calipers.
The 4 Hasp box is.
40.75 mm Wide
18.5 mm High not counting the lid
13.25 m Thick front to back measured on the end.
The 2 Hasp Box is.
40.75 mm Wide
17.75 mm High not counting the lids.
12.75 mm Thick front to back measured on the end
A big difference between these and the RFM Kit box.
Hope this helps.
Donald
I checked the sizes with a pair of metric calipers.
The 4 Hasp box is.
40.75 mm Wide
18.5 mm High not counting the lid
13.25 m Thick front to back measured on the end.
The 2 Hasp Box is.
40.75 mm Wide
17.75 mm High not counting the lids.
12.75 mm Thick front to back measured on the end
A big difference between these and the RFM Kit box.
Hope this helps.
Donald
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
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Posted: Friday, September 25, 2015 - 08:05 PM UTC
edmund
Joined: November 10, 2014
KitMaker: 668 posts
Armorama: 456 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 26, 2015 - 12:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
. When you open the lid , which stowage box was deeper if you reach to the back? The two hasp or the four hasp one ?I'm not sure what you mean by "depth".
I'm trying to say that the top-to-bottom distance was the different one.
David
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
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Posted: Saturday, September 26, 2015 - 04:28 PM UTC
I have the Turrets finished.
You will have to trim the bottom mounting bracket to clear the pistol ports.
The TMD replacement Gun Barrel section fits fine, or you could shorten the kit barrel 3 mm. it's too long.
Here is the Dragon Turret, no problems here.
I'll be working on the replacement side mud guards for the RFM kit next.
Donald
You will have to trim the bottom mounting bracket to clear the pistol ports.
The TMD replacement Gun Barrel section fits fine, or you could shorten the kit barrel 3 mm. it's too long.
Here is the Dragon Turret, no problems here.
I'll be working on the replacement side mud guards for the RFM kit next.
Donald
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
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Posted: Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 08:08 PM UTC
I have been working on the side mud guards by TMD for the RFM kit this is what I have found in using the resin parts.
First I held the kit mud guards against the hull and marked off their location.
Like so.
The TMD resin guards need their notches where they mount cleaned up a bit.
Remove the mounting points shown and glue them to the TMD resin guards as shown.
First I held the kit mud guards against the hull and marked off their location.
Like so.
The TMD resin guards need their notches where they mount cleaned up a bit.
Remove the mounting points shown and glue them to the TMD resin guards as shown.
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
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Posted: Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 08:18 PM UTC
If you loose some of them you can use the resin ones or get extra from other Dragon Tiger spare parts.
They are just needed in the front two sections of the guard.
Here they are ready for to be installed .
Start at the rear and work your way forward
It would have been so much easier if RFM had done it right in the first place.
I think the External Air Filters will be next.
Donald
They are just needed in the front two sections of the guard.
Here they are ready for to be installed .
Start at the rear and work your way forward
It would have been so much easier if RFM had done it right in the first place.
I think the External Air Filters will be next.
Donald
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 09:13 PM UTC
I have the external air filters finished and installed.
These are for the left side.I assembled the parts for the hoses first.
B 56 & B70 go in the top opening, B58 & B73 go in the bottom.
I placed the top hose in position between the filter and the deck mounted connector & glued the joints making sure the filter was at the same angle as the rear hull.Then glue the filter to the rear armor plate.
Install the bottom hose the same way.
Install the B58 hose hold down with the large tab over the hose wirh the free end. (it'l only fit one way)
Repeat for the other side with the correct parts.
These are for the left side.I assembled the parts for the hoses first.
B 56 & B70 go in the top opening, B58 & B73 go in the bottom.
I placed the top hose in position between the filter and the deck mounted connector & glued the joints making sure the filter was at the same angle as the rear hull.Then glue the filter to the rear armor plate.
Install the bottom hose the same way.
Install the B58 hose hold down with the large tab over the hose wirh the free end. (it'l only fit one way)
Repeat for the other side with the correct parts.
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 09:36 PM UTC
I installed the tool box closer in toward the exhaust system this is close to where the pictures show it to be.
The finished rear deck.
I trimmed the RFM mufflers about 1mm. to match the Dragon ones about 25.7mm long and placed the butterfly valves on top in the open engine running position on the RFM mufflers. The Dragon ones I have in the closed engine off position, I know Dave will have something to say about this. If they are closed you cant run the engine as the exhaust has nowhere to go.
That's all for now , I'll be adding the little bits to the hulls next.
Donald
The finished rear deck.
I trimmed the RFM mufflers about 1mm. to match the Dragon ones about 25.7mm long and placed the butterfly valves on top in the open engine running position on the RFM mufflers. The Dragon ones I have in the closed engine off position, I know Dave will have something to say about this. If they are closed you cant run the engine as the exhaust has nowhere to go.
That's all for now , I'll be adding the little bits to the hulls next.
Donald
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 11:17 PM UTC
OH, you can run with them closed; that's how they are underwater. They don't lock closed.
David
David
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 01:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
OH, you can run with them closed; that's how they are underwater. They don't lock closed.
David
Well ok , they still have to be open a little to let the exhaust gas out. Otherwise it would be like sticking a potato in the exhaust pipe of an auto or truck. Not nice.
DONALD
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 10:22 AM UTC
The exhaust gas pressure opens them, even underwater.
David
David
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 02:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The exhaust gas pressure opens them, even underwater.
David
That is exactly what I was saying. If the engine was to stall they would close to keep the water out of the engine.
Donald
easyco69
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
Armorama: 2,233 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 07:47 PM UTC
Here I thought you were building that mess straight out of the box?
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 02:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Here I thought you were building that mess straight out of the box?
Nope I never said that. It's just a comparison build.
Probably would have been cheaper to buy the Dragon kit.
Too much work on the RFM kit.
Donald
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
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Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 09:02 PM UTC
I have all the little bits added to the Hulls.
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 09:13 PM UTC
Here are the assembled Wheels & Sprockets.
I know a lot of you don't do it this way, but it works for me.
It saves getting glue on the axles and is just easier for me this way.
Now to the paint shop.
Donald
I know a lot of you don't do it this way, but it works for me.
It saves getting glue on the axles and is just easier for me this way.
Now to the paint shop.
Donald
easyco69
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
Armorama: 2,233 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 09:26 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextHere I thought you were building that mess straight out of the box?
Nope I never said that. It's just a comparison build.
Probably would have been cheaper to buy the Dragon kit.
Too much work on the RFM kit.
Donald
Aww ok.
Thx for your time & effort...I like your work.
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 07:18 PM UTC
They are out of the Paint Shop.
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 07:21 PM UTC
Here is how I installed the Wheels, It might not work for you but I found that this way is easiest for me.
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 07:26 PM UTC
Repeat for the other side.
I did the Dragon one the same way.
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 07:33 PM UTC
I'm working on the track now.
The Dragon DS track is really easy.
The RFM Track is another matter.
There are 96 shoes for each track run with 5 parts for each shoe.
The Shoe itself , 2 Track Pins & 2 Guide Horns.
Thats 96x5=480 x 2 Tracks = 960 parts to clean up.
That's all for a while, I have a lot of parts to clean up.
Donald
The Dragon DS track is really easy.
The RFM Track is another matter.
There are 96 shoes for each track run with 5 parts for each shoe.
The Shoe itself , 2 Track Pins & 2 Guide Horns.
Thats 96x5=480 x 2 Tracks = 960 parts to clean up.
That's all for a while, I have a lot of parts to clean up.
Donald
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Monday, October 05, 2015 - 06:15 PM UTC
All the parts are cleaned up, except for the sprue holders on the guide horns. They will be removed after the guide horns are installed.
These make it a lot easier to install the horns.
This is enough for one track run.
Now to remove the sprue pieces and clean up the horns.
Donald
These make it a lot easier to install the horns.
This is enough for one track run.
Now to remove the sprue pieces and clean up the horns.
Donald
astralscooter
Joined: March 24, 2015
KitMaker: 69 posts
Armorama: 69 posts
Posted: Monday, October 05, 2015 - 06:44 PM UTC
Did you glue the drive sprocket and idler on the RFM kit? If so, I think you will find that installation of the tracks would be easier with the sprocket rotatable and the idler available for track tensioning.
BTW, I tend to do the road wheels the same way you do. Works well!
Arild
BTW, I tend to do the road wheels the same way you do. Works well!
Arild
OldWarloke
Joined: October 14, 2012
KitMaker: 2,663 posts
Armorama: 2,649 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 02:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Did you glue the drive sprocket and idler on the RFM kit? If so, I think you will find that installation of the tracks would be easier with the sprocket rotatable and the idler available for track tensioning.
BTW, I tend to do the road wheels the same way you do. Works well!
Arild
There is a rotatable hub that is fastened to the gear box with a small ring on the inside. If you are careful with the glue it can rotate. I glued the sprocket to this. If you are doing a diorama with the sprocket removed for repair, it is nicely detailed.
Donald
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