Hello,

If You read this, that means that DAK is one of those topics, You can't miss

This time, I'm trying to build a PAnzer IV ausf. D replica stright from Sahara's deserts.

As a base of build I'll use the Dragon kit nr. ref. 6779


Also to enchance the details I'll use the PE set from Eduard. Any advice and suport will be much needed!

Today's progres:

Hello,

Next photos showing the progres.

Hello,

Next update.

Despite completly monted fenders I've added some extras:



I've replaced the Drogon's fender box for Eduard's PE box.


The rear fenders as well was replaced for PE. I've had to search for some old PE frets added to older Dragon's kits because in new ones there is about 50% of the PE elements comparing to the old ones. For Example the elements closing the cooling gasps on the both fenders in rear section.






Next progres soon.

Looks good!

Looking good. I'm glad to see the aftermarket you're using.

Gary

Thanks guys for nice words.

I don't really think that in SmartKits by Dragon the aftermarkets are absolutely must-have. Those models are good stright out of the box. Only some elements You can replace as tooling clasps and fenders if you want to deform tchem a bit.

Hello!

Last weeks I've spended on replacing horrible clasps b Dragon to PE parts by Eduard.

This is the effect:










Hope next update show better progres in build.

Hi!

You are off and running with this one, Lukasz, and the stuff looks good.

I would suggest however that you fix up those little chains on the smoke-bomb rack: In the real panzer world, those chains were attached to the pull-ring (top) of the smoke-bomb AND to the rack-frame itself. The rack is tipped by a cable-release from inside to let the bombs fall out. When the falling bomb got to the end of its chain, the chain pulled the ignition-match from the bomb and lit it off, and the bomb fell to the ground. So... When there are bombs in the rack, the chains should attach to the bomb, as you have them right now, AND loop back up and attach to the inside rack right beside each bomb. So, what we should see (to be accurate, of course!) is a loop of chain for each bomb.

IF one wants to model the rack empty (bombs are gone), the chains would attach to the rack and dangle much as you have them. The detail-minded would attach a tiny length of thin wire or stretched-sprue at the bottom of each chain to be that ignition-match that had been pulled from the bomb.

That's the "right way" to show this detail - HOWEVER, many modelers (I, too! Just so you know that I am not being "holier than thou" on this!) have done their bomb-chains just as you have... It's a sort of "accepted standard error" in the plastic panzer hobby! Probably a case of "monkey see, monkey do" as we all look at others and copy what we see. So...

It's just a suggestion!

I'm looking, and this will be good!

Bob

Hello,

I never thought of the real mechanism of those smoke grenades. Altrough I've copied the way Rinaldi manager with them.

Bob, Have You got any pics of the real thing with those chains?

Not sure I'll be as good to make it real thing on my model.

Hi there!

My work with the Panzer is still on fenders level.
Hopefully all the stuff parts are on its place. Replacing rhe Dragons clasps and mountings was quite a hard journey, but I belive the effect was worth the effort.


I've made the mounting of the lever tool with the Dragons PE parts wich was quite o.k. after heating it a bit with lighter to achieve more flexibility of this metal parts.




I also rearranged the shovel and the antena cover mountings, because on the last photo I noticed I've made an mistake gluing mountings on shovel.



Last thing was the steps wich were workable in a real tank (for drunken crewmen?). This part is consisting of 1 elements (PE and plastics rods) and it was a real pain! I'm happy to see, that I manager to make it even in small way similar to the original one.




Now its time to make the turret with the full interior. It will take a while.

By the way, Does anyone have the photos of the ausf. D in Africa?

I mean the photos showing the way they were usead and weathered by the dust, heat and combat.

Any help needed.

They were delivered in the standard Dark Gray color. Sources vary, but sometime within the first six weeks in country the tanks were painted with RAL 8000. There was a shortage of paint, so some leeway is possible as to color and tone. Reports state some paint was sourced locally.
The finish should be splotchy with dark gray showing through. It's been stated that areas to be painted RAL 7008 were left in dark gray again due to the shortage of paint in the early days.
Dust was everywhere accumulating in the corners.
Rinaldi's interpretation is, in my opinion generally correct, as to appearence.

This is one nice build your PE work looks very nice. Can't wait to see more.

Hello,

Next part of photos of the building Panzer IV.









I've changed the rear rack-box of the turret locks for PE. Also some minor changes was made. Hopefully its over. Now its time for painting. The turret is not glued inside, because I'llpaint the interior separately.

Lovely

Hello,

The model gets the Tamiya's suffracer in Panzer Gray as a base for the next steps. I'll use the Heavy Chipping by AK on sand colour to make it look in DAK fashion.




Hope to complete the paintjob in this year

Hello,

Its a very little progres. Decals were applied on gloss varnish and I'm preparing the tank to apply sandy coat on it.

This is amazing, great work. this looks really nice, especially with the opening doors.

Really nice. PE is very nice also.

Cool build. What tracks will you use?

Hello,

I'm planing to use the basic DS-tracks out of the box.

At this stage the tank gets a very hard scratches all around, but in places where the crew could be moving or transporting something.

Hello,

I've just decided to repaint the model, as it looks way to yellow and the chipping was a clear sci-fi.

Now it should be better, at least with the chipping. Also the color is RAL 8000 not RAL 8020 as before.

Nice progress

Fantastic work,I love it,I have this kit in my stash and hope to build it this year.

All I can say is don't ruin your masterpiece with those DS tracks,I grabbed some MT'S for mine.They can look good,but on my older builds their starting to Crack and break.9