Here are three Volkswagens I pretty much have finished with, or at least to my minimum standards. I plan to add some more stowage once I get/make some, and plan on making some small bases so they will likely get some more weathering down the road. But for now, here they are:
Tamiya Kübelwagen
Hosted by Darren Baker
A trio of Volkswagens
brekinapez
Georgia, United States
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 10:51 AM UTC
brekinapez
Georgia, United States
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 10:55 AM UTC
CMK Type 82e
Needs the tail lights added and some window cleanup, but basically done
Needs the tail lights added and some window cleanup, but basically done
brekinapez
Georgia, United States
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 11:02 AM UTC
Tamiya Type 166 Schwimmwagen
Going back and forth on whether to repaint shovel and oar handles...
These were all OOB builds with no extra frills other than lowering the driver's window on the 82e and putting the MP-40 inside.
Going back and forth on whether to repaint shovel and oar handles...
These were all OOB builds with no extra frills other than lowering the driver's window on the 82e and putting the MP-40 inside.
ericadeane
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 01:13 PM UTC
Thanks for posting, Shell. May I make a suggestion? Before applying camo to your next project, practice with your airbrush mixture and air pressure. You're getting over spray and that can be eliminated. Drop down your PSI to about 10-12 and thin your paint to about milky consistency. Then hold the nozzle about one inch from your practice surface and try to make fine lines without side splatter. Good luck.
Paulinsibculo
Overijssel, Netherlands
Joined: July 01, 2010
KitMaker: 1,322 posts
Armorama: 1,239 posts
Joined: July 01, 2010
KitMaker: 1,322 posts
Armorama: 1,239 posts
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 02:16 PM UTC
Hi Shell,
nice builds. Thanks for sharing.
Maybe you should change the decal on the schwimwagen driver's helmet. He drives a SS vehicle and has a Wehrmacht helmet.
Pls., allow me a tip for gluing transparant parts:
try Revell Contacta Clear, item # 39609.
It doesn't attack the plastic and keeps it transparant.
Happy New Year.
P.
nice builds. Thanks for sharing.
Maybe you should change the decal on the schwimwagen driver's helmet. He drives a SS vehicle and has a Wehrmacht helmet.
Pls., allow me a tip for gluing transparant parts:
try Revell Contacta Clear, item # 39609.
It doesn't attack the plastic and keeps it transparant.
Happy New Year.
P.
brekinapez
Georgia, United States
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 08:43 PM UTC
Thanks for the suggestions. As far as the camo, I was spraying heavily thinned Tamiya at ~8psi less than an inch away, but I have a bit of arthritis in my hands that makes holding an airbrush a tricky proposition.
My bad on the helmet; I built the driver a month earlier and forgot about the markings I used on him.
The windows are held in with white glue; just have to pop them out and clean them.
My bad on the helmet; I built the driver a month earlier and forgot about the markings I used on him.
The windows are held in with white glue; just have to pop them out and clean them.
M4A1Sherman
New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 08:56 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the suggestions. As far as the camo, I was spraying heavily thinned Tamiya at ~8psi less than an inch away, but I have a bit of arthritis in my hands that makes holding an airbrush a tricky proposition.
My bad on the helmet; I built the driver a month earlier and forgot about the markings I used on him.
The windows are held in with white glue; just have to pop them out and clean them.
You can also try MICRO INDUSTRIES- Their CLEAR GLOSS and CLEAR WINDOW ADHESIVE work quite nicely as well, these are water-based, so clean-up is a snap...
Ditto on the lower PSI and thinned paint. I still stick to (my personal preference) TESTORS MODEL MASTER II Enamels myself, as they tend to dry just a tad slower and they shoot through my airbrushes a bit more smoothly, from my experience...
jasegreene
Florida, United States
Joined: October 21, 2013
KitMaker: 751 posts
Armorama: 751 posts
Joined: October 21, 2013
KitMaker: 751 posts
Armorama: 751 posts
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 10:55 PM UTC
The Volkswagen Bettle,"the poor man's Porsche."That is a quote I came up with myself.
Posted: Monday, December 28, 2015 - 11:25 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The windows are held in with white glue; just have to pop them out and clean them.
You can also try MICRO INDUSTRIES- Their CLEAR GLOSS and CLEAR WINDOW ADHESIVE work quite nicely as well, these are water-based, so clean-up is a snap...
[/quote]
I have used the Pledge Future clear coat for window glass. It fill scratches as well- Thanks for posting. Nice job. Makes me want to dig out my VW kits as well!