Can one of you super smart folks put the photos in the body of a response so I can get some feedback?
I trust I used the correct photo distance. If not, I'll try again. This is the DML M4A4 Sherman with the Coree Crab kit and JR barrel.
thanks
DJ
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
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Sherman Crab
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 03:58 AM UTC
I placed several photos of recently completed Sherman Crab at: https://armorama.kitmaker.net/photos/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/166.
Can one of you super smart folks put the photos in the body of a response so I can get some feedback?
I trust I used the correct photo distance. If not, I'll try again. This is the DML M4A4 Sherman with the Coree Crab kit and JR barrel.
thanks
DJ
Can one of you super smart folks put the photos in the body of a response so I can get some feedback?
I trust I used the correct photo distance. If not, I'll try again. This is the DML M4A4 Sherman with the Coree Crab kit and JR barrel.
thanks
DJ
animal
KitMaker: 4,503 posts
Armorama: 3,159 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 04:06 AM UTC
Here you go 
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 04:09 AM UTC
Animal--- thanks. I trust other will go to the gallery noted to see the other photos.
Appreciate your help
DJ
Appreciate your help
DJ
Plasticbattle
#003
Joined: May 14, 2002
KitMaker: 9,763 posts
Armorama: 7,444 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 04:23 AM UTC
The sherman crab look amazing. Great conversion. The paint work and weathering look very nice ..... but what happened on the stowage and barrel manifold cover. It looks like a splashed-on thick wash. The weathering is also a bit blotchy. Sorry if this sounds a bit harsh ... but having built and painted such a nice kit, it takes away from the finished article.
A thin overall wash would hide most of this and some dry brushing would bring back the detail on the stowage and manifold cover.
A thin overall wash would hide most of this and some dry brushing would bring back the detail on the stowage and manifold cover.
WeWillHold
Joined: April 17, 2002
KitMaker: 2,314 posts
Armorama: 1,905 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 04:48 AM UTC
210's additional pics :-)
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 07:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The sherman crab look amazing. Great conversion. The paint work and weathering look very nice ..... but what happened on the stowage and barrel manifold cover. It looks like a splashed-on thick wash. The weathering is also a bit blotchy. Sorry if this sounds a bit harsh ... but having built and painted such a nice kit, it takes away from the finished article.
A thin overall wash would hide most of this and some dry brushing would bring back the detail on the stowage and manifold cover.
I appreciate your comments as I do the superb assistance from my Brother Modelers in posting the photos. As I continue on with my weathering, I'll post some more shots. The wash just does not present the effect I desired so I will continue to work on it.
thanks again
DJ
thebear
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 08:59 AM UTC
Nice job so far ...I have to agree that the washes could flow a bit more ..I'm sure you'll fix it with the rest of your weathering ...I didn't even know that this kit existed ..Now I want one!!! I'm jealous!!How good is the conversion kit?? Does it go together well ? What is included and what did you have to scratch??
I'd add more dirt to the hull and tracks because these were well known for making a mess .Are you sure about the color of those box shaped pieces on the rear of the hull ...What color did you paint your kit?..good job! keep up the good work!!
Rick
I'd add more dirt to the hull and tracks because these were well known for making a mess .Are you sure about the color of those box shaped pieces on the rear of the hull ...What color did you paint your kit?..good job! keep up the good work!!
Rick
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 09:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice job so far ...I have to agree that the washes could flow a bit more ..I'm sure you'll fix it with the rest of your weathering ...I didn't even know that this kit existed ..Now I want one!!! I'm jealous!!How good is the conversion kit?? Does it go together well ? What is included and what did you have to scratch??
I'd add more dirt to the hull and tracks because these were well known for making a mess .Are you sure about the color of those box shaped pieces on the rear of the hull ...What color did you paint your kit?..good job! keep up the good work!!
Rick
Rick-- this is the DML M4A4 (kit 6035) with the Jordi Rubio 75mm M-3 (TG-17), AFV Club T-49 Track (AF 35028) and the Coree Crab Mark I (CE 3503). The Coree conversion kit is a nightmare. However, through trial and error I assembled it. Now the marker lights are incorrectly mounted, but once in place I never fooled with them again. The base color is MM RAF Green. I am working on the wash and still have not hit the right combination. I will continue to play with it and post some more photos which thanks to my Friends made it into the forum.
DJ
slodder
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 09:55 AM UTC
Couple of things I see - the front left track looks a bit clean compared to the right side. If it's the photo then ignore this.
The other thing- glue down the road surface, the back left corner is popping up a bit.
Nice conversion - it's cool to see new subjects
The other thing- glue down the road surface, the back left corner is popping up a bit.
Nice conversion - it's cool to see new subjects
Hollowpoint
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
Armorama: 1,797 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 12:54 PM UTC
Wow, DJ -- I was wondering if you were ever going to finish this after I sent you those plans months ago! Looks pretty good -- I won't mention weathering as everyone else has given input. I assume that when it is done you'll hit it with some Dullcoat (markings are shiny).
A few observations:
1) The tracks look too tight/short. The front and rear bogies are raising up -- they should sit on level ground. If you leave them this way, you ought to consider putting it on a contoured base that will come up to meet the track.
2) The chalk lane markers are tipped too far forward. (these are the parallelogram-shaped boxes hanging on the side near the rear) The ends should be perpendicular to the level ground. Also, it looks like you have painted them as wood sided (or are they unpainted resin)?? All my refs suggest these were make of sheet metal -- do you have something that shows different?
3) The roadwheels need rubber rims. Again, this may be a case of unpainted resin showing through.
4) The flail boom looks a little cockeyed -- from the front the right side looks higher than the left. May require gentle readjustment.
Gee, mine is marked as no. 10 also ...
In hindsight, I think my scratch-build may have been easier than trying to make a resin conversion work.
Keep up the good work!
A few observations:
1) The tracks look too tight/short. The front and rear bogies are raising up -- they should sit on level ground. If you leave them this way, you ought to consider putting it on a contoured base that will come up to meet the track.
2) The chalk lane markers are tipped too far forward. (these are the parallelogram-shaped boxes hanging on the side near the rear) The ends should be perpendicular to the level ground. Also, it looks like you have painted them as wood sided (or are they unpainted resin)?? All my refs suggest these were make of sheet metal -- do you have something that shows different?
3) The roadwheels need rubber rims. Again, this may be a case of unpainted resin showing through.
4) The flail boom looks a little cockeyed -- from the front the right side looks higher than the left. May require gentle readjustment.
Gee, mine is marked as no. 10 also ...
In hindsight, I think my scratch-build may have been easier than trying to make a resin conversion work.
Keep up the good work!
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 02:09 PM UTC
Bob-- believe me, I could not have gotten this far without your invaluable assistance. The Coree instructions are impossible and as I progress towards completion I will incoporate your recommendations. Once again, thanks for getting me this far.
DJ
DJ
Captain94
Joined: October 06, 2002
KitMaker: 239 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 05:29 PM UTC
amazing job!
the first photo is slightly out of focus (or maybe it's my eyes
)
first rate job!
the first photo is slightly out of focus (or maybe it's my eyes
)first rate job!
thebear
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 08:07 AM UTC
It is hard to tell from your pictures what kind of chain you used but it looks like ordinary chain (i might be wrong) ...Just wondering but wasn't the chain used on these crabs more like bicycle chain that got wider at the ends?? I may be wrong but I don't think it was made from ordinary chain ...I'd love to be proven wrong on this one ...Well just remembered I have the Allied and Axis book with pictures of the crab in it ...you are okay for a prototype but they did change to the bicycle chain for the production due to the fact that ordinary chains were less stable and could leave mines in their path and they would sometimes get caught up together ... If I were you I wouldn't add the gun cradle to the front as none of the pictures I have seem to have this added ...I guess I answered my own question but thought you would like to know anyways ...
all the best
Rick
all the best
Rick
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 02:07 PM UTC
Rick-- Bob K provided invaluable assistance in this effort. There is some work still to be done. The chain shown is that provided in the Coree aftermarket kit. Very difficult kit to apply to the DML M4A4. The instructions are impossible to decipher. I'd still be staring at it without Bob's help. Regardless, the chains have a weight type block on their ends as I see from the photos I have. However, those darn things are on and they are fragile as all get out. So, the best thing to do is place this Bad Boy in a diorama and hide the chain ends. More to follow.
Thanks for your comments.
DJ
Thanks for your comments.
DJ
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Monday, February 02, 2004 - 11:27 PM UTC
Looks good DJ!
Nice model I bet those chains and gluing of was a nightmare.
Nice conversion.
I do agree the wash should flow a little more.
plus one thing put some Pastel on that Bright White star As It is to easy a Target!!
Nice build
Nice model I bet those chains and gluing of was a nightmare.
Nice conversion.
I do agree the wash should flow a little more.
plus one thing put some Pastel on that Bright White star As It is to easy a Target!!
Nice build
shonen_red
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 12:11 AM UTC
Great job so far. I guess the rust has been overdone. Try to soften it down. Also, the star is too bright. Give it a dark shade.
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 01:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Great job so far. I guess the rust has been overdone. Try to soften it down. Also, the star is too bright. Give it a dark shade.
Appreciate your comments. I am trying to weather it better, but so far the rust color which is suppose to represent a fuel spill has not gone the way I wished. Any suggestions?
thanks
DJ
shonen_red
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 01:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Appreciate your comments. I am trying to weather it better, but so far the rust color which is suppose to represent a fuel spill has not gone the way I wished. Any suggestions?
thanks
DJ
All I can think about is to dust it with pastels to conceal it. Maybe others have a better idea. Try showong us a pic of it.
BTW, does that kit uses rubber tracks or indy ones? I want to have those myself :-)
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 03:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextAppreciate your comments. I am trying to weather it better, but so far the rust color which is suppose to represent a fuel spill has not gone the way I wished. Any suggestions?
thanks
DJ
All I can think about is to dust it with pastels to conceal it. Maybe others have a better idea. Try showong us a pic of it.
BTW, does that kit uses rubber tracks or indy ones? I want to have those myself :-)
I'll try the pastel route. The track is a continuous vinyl one that is very nicely detailed.
AJLaFleche
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 05:40 AM UTC
Noice construction. You've beenraked over the coals enough for the wash. For future reference, try using a spot wash, placing the mixture just wher you want it to give a shadow.
Other than that, if you're not adding a figure, consider closing the hatch since you see som much empty space down in the hull.
Other than that, if you're not adding a figure, consider closing the hatch since you see som much empty space down in the hull.
ShermiesRule
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
Armorama: 3,777 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 05:58 AM UTC
Perhaps instead of washing the tank with rust you should try drybrushing with rust. It will hit the highlights and if you need to really rust up a particular area you can just double or triple drybrush that area.
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 07:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Perhaps instead of washing the tank with rust you should try drybrushing with rust. It will hit the highlights and if you need to really rust up a particular area you can just double or triple drybrush that area.
I am following your thought, but how do I deal with the current stains?
thanks
DJ
thebear
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 10:57 AM UTC
Why not try just a heavy dry brushing of your OD color you can scrub the paint in and you'll even leave the oil stain in the nooks and crannies just as you wanted in the first place ..just a thought !!
Rick
Rick
ShermiesRule
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
Armorama: 3,777 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 01:10 PM UTC
Yes as bear said you may want to dry brush OD over the rust wash. Dry brushing the rust instead of washing you will have to save until next model.
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 12:21 AM UTC
Good ideas, I'll give them a try.
thanks
thanks
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