A lot of surface rust, but not eaten through.
Al
Dioramas
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On the beach, years later
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 09:46 PM UTC
No expert on this tank, but I would think that the flotation cells would be made of thin sheet metal and would rust a lot more than the hull and turret. Witness this Sherman, wrecked off the beach at Tarawa, and sitting in saltwater for years.
A lot of surface rust, but not eaten through. Al
A lot of surface rust, but not eaten through.
Al
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 10:06 PM UTC
Great info...
Thanks!
Thanks!
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Friday, April 01, 2016 - 02:02 AM UTC
This looks very much like an effect I am trying to achieve! LOL!
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Friday, April 01, 2016 - 05:38 AM UTC
Glad it helps. Al
Al
kurnuy
Joined: August 22, 2009
KitMaker: 1,491 posts
Armorama: 997 posts
Posted: Friday, April 01, 2016 - 01:46 PM UTC
Hi Patrick ,
i did a project a few years ago with a rusted Mark V tank embedded in a World War One landscape . If you want to create something like this , i can help you .
You need Tamiya Hull red as basic color , pigments and dilluted oil paint . If it's the same result you want to create let me know .
Kurt
i did a project a few years ago with a rusted Mark V tank embedded in a World War One landscape . If you want to create something like this , i can help you .
You need Tamiya Hull red as basic color , pigments and dilluted oil paint . If it's the same result you want to create let me know .
Kurt
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Friday, April 01, 2016 - 06:05 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Patrick ,
i did a project a few years ago with a rusted Mark V tank embedded in a World War One landscape . If you want to create something like this , i can help you .
You need Tamiya Hull red as basic color , pigments and dilluted oil paint . If it's the same result you want to create let me know .
Kurt
Will do😎! Gotta teach a class today so back with you tonight! Thanks so much! Lessons from a master! This is way cool!
Taylortony
Joined: November 30, 2010
KitMaker: 126 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 04:29 PM UTC
I suppose it depends how long it has sat on the beach, one thing though you wouldn't have track marks past it after a few days.
This is my on going rusty tank
http://www.armorama.co.uk/forums/243021#2050279
This is my on going rusty tank
http://www.armorama.co.uk/forums/243021#2050279
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 06:12 PM UTC
If you have been reading the track marks are for registration only... I'm a novice but not that much... 
Kevlar06
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 - 11:25 PM UTC
Patrick,
The thought occurred to me a couple of nights ago that you should add a palm tree growing out of the wreckage of the Ka-Mi for some visual interest. It may be too late now, and only fit for the "list of good ideas", but it would firmly place your model as a war relic and give it some additional visual interest. You've done such a great job with the palms so far. I saw several vehicle wrecks in the Solomon and Russell Islands with tree growth coming up through engine compartments, truck beds, etc. VR, Russ
The thought occurred to me a couple of nights ago that you should add a palm tree growing out of the wreckage of the Ka-Mi for some visual interest. It may be too late now, and only fit for the "list of good ideas", but it would firmly place your model as a war relic and give it some additional visual interest. You've done such a great job with the palms so far. I saw several vehicle wrecks in the Solomon and Russell Islands with tree growth coming up through engine compartments, truck beds, etc. VR, Russ
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 12:12 AM UTC
Aw Russ you read my mind... I am not sure where yet but I did that idea! LOL!
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 12:30 AM UTC
Sorry that there has been no progress... I was waiting for all the other elements to be delivered. I also have been hindered by this uniquely annoying winter crud that is making every one ill,
Also, we are in the process of hopefully buying a house. We are past the appraisal, the offer, the escrow and now waiting for funding. If that happens, all life will go on hold for a few months until get settled. Here is the garage where my new workspace will be located on the right side. The previous owner has already sold me her compressor, so my airbrush will be back in business... everyone keeps their fingers crossed for us... and if you insist, I will post a photo of the house.
Okay since you insisted...
Also, we are in the process of hopefully buying a house. We are past the appraisal, the offer, the escrow and now waiting for funding. If that happens, all life will go on hold for a few months until get settled. Here is the garage where my new workspace will be located on the right side. The previous owner has already sold me her compressor, so my airbrush will be back in business... everyone keeps their fingers crossed for us... and if you insist, I will post a photo of the house.
Okay since you insisted...
Kevlar06
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 06:02 AM UTC
Patrick,
Nice digs! you must live in the SW somewhere. After the wettest winter on record here in the NW, I keep telling my wife we should move to Arizona! I'd like a dry garage for sure-- I have a three car garage, and a little shop space between car 2 and car 3, but it lets a lot of moisture in when moving the cars in and out in the winter. I left 3 miniature files and a pair of pliers on my workbench for a couple of weeks in February, and when I went out to do some work, they had a nice coating of rust. I have to drain my tank compressor every month or so too, to keep the bottom from rusting out. I have to keep everything oiled up in the winter around here. Glad you thought of the palm tree idea. VR, Russ
Nice digs! you must live in the SW somewhere. After the wettest winter on record here in the NW, I keep telling my wife we should move to Arizona! I'd like a dry garage for sure-- I have a three car garage, and a little shop space between car 2 and car 3, but it lets a lot of moisture in when moving the cars in and out in the winter. I left 3 miniature files and a pair of pliers on my workbench for a couple of weeks in February, and when I went out to do some work, they had a nice coating of rust. I have to drain my tank compressor every month or so too, to keep the bottom from rusting out. I have to keep everything oiled up in the winter around here. Glad you thought of the palm tree idea. VR, Russ
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 06:33 AM UTC
California, Russ
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Monday, April 11, 2016 - 08:29 PM UTC
Been using the Palm tree tutorial by youngc over in flora and fauna as a guide for building but have run into a snag.
I have been looking for a ficus plant but am having a heck of a time. Not being a person with a green thumb, I am wondering if they are seasonal and why I can't find one anywhere?
I could be spending this time at my desk at work making palm fronds. This is frustrating!
I have been looking for a ficus plant but am having a heck of a time. Not being a person with a green thumb, I am wondering if they are seasonal and why I can't find one anywhere?
I could be spending this time at my desk at work making palm fronds. This is frustrating!
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Monday, April 11, 2016 - 08:30 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Patrick ,
i did a project a few years ago with a rusted Mark V tank embedded in a World War One landscape . If you want to create something like this , i can help you .
You need Tamiya Hull red as basic color , pigments and dilluted oil paint . If it's the same result you want to create let me know .
Kurt
Sent you a PM, Kurt... did you get it?
kurnuy
Joined: August 22, 2009
KitMaker: 1,491 posts
Armorama: 997 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 01:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextHi Patrick ,
i did a project a few years ago with a rusted Mark V tank embedded in a World War One landscape . If you want to create something like this , i can help you .
You need Tamiya Hull red as basic color , pigments and dilluted oil paint . If it's the same result you want to create let me know .
Kurt
Sent you a PM, Kurt... did you get it?
Yes i did Patrick, and you have a reply.
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 03:32 AM UTC
seeing the rust job over in another thread has given me new inspiration! Plus not feeling ill any longer also helps.
I do need a bit of advice. I am working with Verlinden resin figures for the first time. What is the best way to separate the parts from the blocks? And the best adhesive?
I find the lack of assembly instructions a bit daunting. Is that usual for Verlinden?
Thanks in advance...
I do need a bit of advice. I am working with Verlinden resin figures for the first time. What is the best way to separate the parts from the blocks? And the best adhesive?
I find the lack of assembly instructions a bit daunting. Is that usual for Verlinden?
Thanks in advance...
Vicious
Joined: September 04, 2015
KitMaker: 1,517 posts
Armorama: 1,109 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 05:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
seeing the rust job over in another thread has given me new inspiration! Plus not feeling ill any longer also helps.
I do need a bit of advice. I am working with Verlinden resin figures for the first time. What is the best way to separate the parts from the blocks? And the best adhesive?
I find the lack of assembly instructions a bit daunting. Is that usual for Verlinden?
Thanks in advance...
with a saw and after sand paper and after CA glue but for bond stronger is good put a metal pin to hold the parts
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 07:25 PM UTC
Thank you! I plan on using sewing needles for the pins after drilling out with a pin vice.
As far as the non-resin figures, I plan on doing arm modifications using putty to build. I have never done figures prior to this and am discovering they are A) frustrating and B) fun...
As far as the non-resin figures, I plan on doing arm modifications using putty to build. I have never done figures prior to this and am discovering they are A) frustrating and B) fun...
Kevlar06
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 06:00 AM UTC
Patrick,
If I could make another suggestion, when doing figures, stay away from steel pins, which sewing needles are. Firstly, sewing needles are hardened steel, and it will be difficult to cut them, plus they are very sharp. I've used sewing needles for years in a pin vise to engrave lines, and when bent they can shatter. If there is an Ace hardware near you, I recommend picking up some K&S brass wire-- its softer, can be cut with wire nippers, and when annealed (heated) becomes very pliable. Because brass is pliable, you have more latitude when making minor bends and changes. K&S makes all kinds of wire, tube, square tube, and special shapes including screens in scale sizes. They also make copper and aluminum tubing, sheet, sheet brass in various thicknesses. Check them out-- most Ace Hardware's carry K&S, Wilco Farm stores carry some, and Hobby Lobby has a small selection.
VR, Russ
If I could make another suggestion, when doing figures, stay away from steel pins, which sewing needles are. Firstly, sewing needles are hardened steel, and it will be difficult to cut them, plus they are very sharp. I've used sewing needles for years in a pin vise to engrave lines, and when bent they can shatter. If there is an Ace hardware near you, I recommend picking up some K&S brass wire-- its softer, can be cut with wire nippers, and when annealed (heated) becomes very pliable. Because brass is pliable, you have more latitude when making minor bends and changes. K&S makes all kinds of wire, tube, square tube, and special shapes including screens in scale sizes. They also make copper and aluminum tubing, sheet, sheet brass in various thicknesses. Check them out-- most Ace Hardware's carry K&S, Wilco Farm stores carry some, and Hobby Lobby has a small selection.
VR, Russ
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 06:43 AM UTC
Well, there you go, Russ. Teaching more than I even asked! It didn't even dawn on me that I can use the brass or copper wire to help pose the figure while I am working on them. Thanks more than you know!
Rust coat on the pontoons...
And the barrels...
Are they too rough?
Your comments are always welcome. Thanks for looking!
Rust coat on the pontoons...
And the barrels...
Are they too rough?
Your comments are always welcome. Thanks for looking!
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 06:52 AM UTC
Finally found an illustration that gives a good paint scheme look... nothing like the box illustration...
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 07:12 AM UTC
Painting looks good, although the barrels may be a bit too rough. As for the paint scheme, not real sure how much would be left/recognizable after decades exposed to the elements, sea air and spray, and tropical sun. Others might know better but it seems to me that what paint there was would be very faded at best. Just my thoughts. It's ultimately your show and you have done very well so far.
Removed by original poster on 04/14/16 - 02:32:33 (GMT).
pnance26
Joined: January 22, 2016
KitMaker: 766 posts
Armorama: 518 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 07:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
No expert on this tank, but I would think that the flotation cells would be made of thin sheet metal and would rust a lot more than the hull and turret. Witness this Sherman, wrecked off the beach at Tarawa, and sitting in saltwater for years.
A lot of surface rust, but not eaten through.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to replicate this barnacled look?
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