Not sure what you mean Andrew about the .50 Cal?

Pete, thank you for the photos o the area where they might add more parts to their next release. From looking at the close up photos of yours of the detail around the lower haul...it looks really sharp

Oops, me bad, you did mention it the previous update (part O7 missing left off instructions) wish I had of noticed it before )

Hi,
I will build the same version, M1A1 from 1-35. Now I am asking me what's the correct track, in the kit you have two options? And a question about the turrets top decompression panels, I think the panels in the kit are not the right ones for "Bad Blessing"?
Hope that somebody could help me. Thank you!

Andreas, for the track as far as I can figure out for the tracks use the hollow guide horns. I don't have a decent pic of Bad blessings tracks. The only image I have showing the guide horn they "appear" to the hollow version but I could be wrong. As for the decompression panels are you talking about the two large panels on the turret roof? If so I used the one with three circles on them (as opposed to flat). I couldn't find a picture of Bad Blessing's roof, but "Bad Influence" (a tank from the same company) has this type (the non-flat type) so I figured a good chance both would be the same.

Well, I just received my Rye Field M1 Friday, and it's missing the E sprue. I'd been looking forward to shaking the box and coming out with a beauty, but that's on hold until the Amazon vendor emails me back - hopefully with 'Sorry about that, new sprue is on the way'.

Sorry it’s been a little while since my last update, been sick and was in the hospital for a couple of days. Everything is all good now and I’m trucking along on the Abrams build.

Last I left off was getting ready to fill and sand the 3 areas that needed it. Remember, for a M1A1 Abrams with the fuel cell in place on the rear left deck, you need to sand flush the tab that is there.









Next, we will tackle the issue of the grab handles on the rear deck. Most of the natural panel lines of the deck cut through the handles. One handle that is located on the panel above the battery compartment is missing the handle entirely. This is where your spares box comes in handy. I have kept all the leftovers from the Abrams photo etch frets I’ve built over the years and had plenty of handles left over.









After removing the plastic molded on handles and cleaning up the area, this is what you get with the photo etch handles.





Next we added the retaining chains for the fuel caps and the photo etch grills.











The fenders and headlights were next. Two types of fenders are provided, so check your reference to see which ones to use. The bars that hold down the fenders are plastic in the RFM kit. They are very fragile, so care is needed when cleaning them up. I prefer the metal ones that Dragon provided in their kit. Again, care is needed when slipping the track connector on to the bar if you use the plastic ones.







Now I moved my attention to the .50 Cal and 7.62mm.
The .50 needed some chains which held the retaining pins to the cradle. Also, make note, do not attach the charging handle to the gun. Instead, scratch build a pull handle out of wire and plastic rod and attach it where the charging handle goes.



Safety chains are also needed to the cradle for the .50 that mounts to the barrel. Also, the power cable for the search light was added after the big hole in the rear of the light was filled.



The 7.62 needed two chains for it’s retaining pins and a small pull ring for the cradle locking pin. A charging pull handle made from fine wire is also added.







Last for this update is adding missing nuts and bolts and replacing molded on bolt heads with more well defined ones from MENG Models.









Also the straps for the ammo can on the side of the tool boxes and the canvas covers for the smoke grenade launchers.





Here is the front lower hull slope with the Evergreen rod glued in place. I will use a soldering iron to simulate the weld bead.



I also had a left over tow chain from the AFV Club M88 kit.



Next update, I will start adding paint to plastic. Until then, questions and comments are always welcome.

Pete,

The power junction box lacks the actual power socket detail. You may wish to add that.

Sorry for a very late update.

Well, I got paint, decals, and detail painting done on the beast. But first I wanted to show what it looked like with just the first coat of paint on it.

The first color sprayed on was Tamiya XF-67 NATO Green:



















Next was sprayed Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black:



















**NOTE** I used the painting instructions from the Dragon AIM kit because the pattern on the RFM painting instructions looked off to me.

Tamiya XF-68 was used for the brown next on the camo:















Next was the fading of the original colors.I usually use Tamiya XF-57 Buff mixed in with the original color to lighten it,but I was out at the time of painting. So I used Tamiya XF-2 Flat White instead. I mix about 30% white to 70% original color to get a lighter shade. Then a spray a cloud effect on the original color:













Washes and filters will blend all the colors together.

I will have another big update in a day or two because a lot of work was done since these pictures were taken. The hull is about 90% done, just need to add tracks and side skirts and do final weathering on it.

So until next time>>>>>>>>>>>>

Nice work so far Pete!

The blast-off panels look more like the ones on the A2s (cover plates)... or are the typical M1A1 valve-disks still to be attached ?

Cheers
Christopher

Christopher,
After gluing on the panels, I realized, after looking at my reference, that I used the wrong panels. They have to be be part B30 and B31 along with C16x6 to represent "Bad Influence."

Nice work so far Pete, but (errors):

Jacek,
I'm not sure what your refereing to in the 2nd picture that is an error? What you circled is a cable conduit for the the cable for the FBCB2 transciever.



In the 1st picture your referring to, you are correct. It does need to be turned around 180 degrees. Thanks for catching that, easy fix. But like mentioned above, I ended up using the incorrect "blast panels" there fore using the incorrect loaders hatch locking latch.

Hi!

Sorry for my English. Look this:





In the model:
- Too right
- Too short

OOOOHHHHHHHH?????????

Good catch Jacek. I will mention that you caught that in the final feature write up.

I'm sorry, I know that you end model...

:)

I do not think so... The panels (model parts D16 & D17)are ok for "Bad Blassing" (they are better parts Q14&15&1 for Dragon model). But Pete "front reflector" is in the wrong place...

:-H

Jacek,
What do you mean by "front reflectors?"

Hi!

Your model:



My model (in progress):



Original:



Can you see it?

Everything to the right!

Another good catch Jacek. Thanks.

Pete... Sorry... Next error...



:-H

That's an end connector for the track. That is an easy convenient place to store one and easy to get to.

I know, but the pictures it is not...