Nice so far Pawel. Is there anything you can do to adjust the alignment of your tracks? The Sprockets and Idler is probably just press-fit into place, but from front and rear view both runs appear askew at these points.

There's just one funny thing. It seems the wheels have seen a few interesting moments in rough terrain. But the rest of your Bradley looks as if it just rolled out of the factory paint booth.

The last skirt/covers on both sides are upside down. The handles are hanging against gravity and the insde of these panels do not have handles to them and are flat with no significant detaililing. If you are going to open them up, you'll need to do more than reverse the two . Also, the photos/illustrations in Squadrons M2/M3 in Action, do not show the camo to be carried over to the inside.

My apologies. I stand corrected.

Looked awesome, I have only one comment, the tracks seems to be cantered inwards instead of rest parallel to each other.

Perhaps somebody could enlighten me as to why the last skirt is turned upside down. Is it to prevent a build-up of mud and debris around the idler?

Pawel, I am dying to know...how do you get the crisp lines for the camo scheme?

When you weather it, you may want to blend a little, though.

Also, the brownish not showing up brownish is a lighting issue. As you saw with the 100% sun light, you saw how unfiltered the color is. If you used something like a flash, that may screw up how the color shows up. Basically the 100% sun light is the best way to show the true color.

Chris,

I was able to achieve this result thanks to the good quality airbrush. I use Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with 0.35 mm nozzle. I first painted the whole model forest green. Then I marked the camouflage lines using the thin brush and Future. In the past I used soft pencil, but I always had to be careful later to fully cover pencil lines with camouflage colors. When I use Future, I don't have to worry if some of it will be visible after camouflage is applied, as I will cover the whole model with Future anyway to prepare it for washes and decals and everything will be evened out.

Once I had camouflage lines marked I applied brown paint and then black paint. I used thin paint, low pressure and kept airbrush nozzle very close to the model surface (about 5 mm). I didn't use any masks.

Painting camouflage the way I did it, takes a lot of time. Painting the black areas alone took over 3 hours!

Rgds,
Pawel

[Thanks, Pawel. I just got my new Badger 200 GSX. Supposed to be great with the fine detailing (either a .35 or .50) I am not sure which one it came with.