can either satin or gloss varnish act as glue for photo etch material?

I know that you can use Future(gloss acrylic) as a glue.

Depending on the size and position of the part, a gloss or satin varnish or future (pledge with future) can be used for photo etch material but I don't recommend it for any "load bearing" parts. You may have problems maintaining the position of the part while the gloss/satin/future solution dries. If you have a steady hand, I recommend cyanoacrylate applied with a needle and accelerator for instant adhesion of really fine parts. If you need extra working time I recommend two-part (5 minute) epoxy cement applied with a needle. There is a jewelry cement available through some suppliers that dries clear and has a fine needle applicator--it comes in a white tube, but the name escapes me right now-- it will work too. You can also use Elmers white school glue to attach PE, but again, not recommended for anything but small non-load bearing parts.
VR Russ

Is this the stuff you're referring to?

http://www.jtv.com/g-s-hypo-cement---standard/1501893.html?CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CNb_qI_tt84CFReTfgodCWEIkg&mcid=XSMPLA&CATCI=pla-18283950120&src=Q2SRCH&CAWELAID=500002190000192214&CAAGID=18884669286&gclsrc=aw.ds

Richard,
I believe in it's early days, the standard adhesive for non load bearing PE was Humbrol Gloss Enamel. Most people have moved on from there for more robust forms of attachment, but Humbrol Gloss is still a viable alternative as once it cures it is pretty tough and the part is easily moved into position while still wet. This process still has advocates in WWI aircraft modeling.

As to using clear satin, that bond is easier to shear than the more homogenous gloss, but in well protected areas, I'm sure it will do the job well enough.

Cheers,
Paul H

Yep, that's it-- GS Hypo cement. I've used it for tacking tiny brass PE, like T-handles into drivers positions and cockpits. However, these areas never get any rough handling-- I doubt this stuff holds any better than future-- it just drys really fast, making positioning easier. The needle applicator is kind of a gimmick though, I find it's difficult to control the amount of cement required, so I squirt a little on a glass surface and use a needle applicator.
VR Russ

As said, for parts that will not be subject to tension it works fine. Specially the acrylic ones, as you can clean the excess with water before it dries.

Lately I have been using acrylic resin from AK, which is stronger than the varnish (good enough for most of the parts), gives me more time to position the part than CA and can be cleaned also with water.