I have managed to leave off the non slip matting that goes on the front. I may do a bit of investigation to see if these are applied after the camo and maybe get another colour going on. The instructions would appear not very helpful when picking a decal scheme in fact they don't say much at all as to whats, what, what.
It means more looking more reading more decision making.
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The Long Journey ,a modelling quest
PHONETIC
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
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Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 09:31 PM UTC
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 11:25 PM UTC
The non-slip is sprayed on at the factory before CARC paint is applied over it. It is similar to a rhino liner for a truck bed.
As to the markings, if you want to stick with the SFOR theme, you could go with any of the three 1 INF DIV artillery units (1-5 FA, 1-6 FA, and 1-7 FA). SFOR would be on the sides of the hull, both sides. The bumper number unit markings could be 1-I-1-7F (on the left (when looking at the front or rear) and C-23 on the right side. This would represent a Paladin from 1 Inf Div, 1-7 Field Artillery, Charlie Battery, 2nd Platoon, vehicle 3. The guns were numbered 11-14 for first Plt and 21-26 for second PLT.
Like this (it is an M109A3, but the markings are the same on an M109A6).
Hope that helps.
As to the markings, if you want to stick with the SFOR theme, you could go with any of the three 1 INF DIV artillery units (1-5 FA, 1-6 FA, and 1-7 FA). SFOR would be on the sides of the hull, both sides. The bumper number unit markings could be 1-I-1-7F (on the left (when looking at the front or rear) and C-23 on the right side. This would represent a Paladin from 1 Inf Div, 1-7 Field Artillery, Charlie Battery, 2nd Platoon, vehicle 3. The guns were numbered 11-14 for first Plt and 21-26 for second PLT.
Like this (it is an M109A3, but the markings are the same on an M109A6).
Hope that helps.
PHONETIC
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 - 12:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The non-slip is sprayed on at the factory before CARC paint is applied over it. It is similar to a rhino liner for a truck bed.
As to the markings, if you want to stick with the SFOR theme, you could go with any of the three 1 INF DIV artillery units (1-5 FA, 1-6 FA, and 1-7 FA). SFOR would be on the sides of the hull, both sides. The bumper number unit markings could be 1-I-1-7F (on the left (when looking at the front or rear) and C-23 on the right side. This would represent a Paladin from 1 Inf Div, 1-7 Field Artillery, Charlie Battery, 2nd Platoon, vehicle 3. The guns were numbered 11-14 for first Plt and 21-26 for second PLT.
Like this (it is an M109A3, but the markings are the same on an M109A6).
Hope that helps.
OH ok thanks I will attach it and hand paint it .
Thanks for the pic I will copy its details
PHONETIC
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 12, 2017 - 07:58 PM UTC
As said before the decals and the instructions are limited as to what you can do with them so I have stuck with the box contents regards the decals and here is the progress thus far
PHONETIC
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
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Joined: March 11, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, March 12, 2017 - 08:06 PM UTC
And another shot
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 12, 2017 - 08:31 PM UTC
It looks great. The markings came out really nice. Two tips.
First, Tamiya screwed you over on the gear painting. All the straps on the bags should be the same basic color of green as the bags. They are not a brown color like on the Tamiya boxart. I don't know where they got that from.
Secondly, the tracks should sag and touch the middle 5 roadwheels, but float above the first and last one. See below to see what I mean.
I replicate this by using superglue and some popsicle sticks. I place superglue on the tops of the 5 middle roadwheels, then press the track down onto them. Next slide some popsicle sticks between the hull and the tops of the tracks over just the 5 center roadwheels to hold the track in place until the glue dries. Once dry, it looks pretty realistic.
One of mine.
First, Tamiya screwed you over on the gear painting. All the straps on the bags should be the same basic color of green as the bags. They are not a brown color like on the Tamiya boxart. I don't know where they got that from.
Secondly, the tracks should sag and touch the middle 5 roadwheels, but float above the first and last one. See below to see what I mean.
I replicate this by using superglue and some popsicle sticks. I place superglue on the tops of the 5 middle roadwheels, then press the track down onto them. Next slide some popsicle sticks between the hull and the tops of the tracks over just the 5 center roadwheels to hold the track in place until the glue dries. Once dry, it looks pretty realistic.
One of mine.
PHONETIC
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
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Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Posted: Monday, March 13, 2017 - 06:59 PM UTC
Arty all points duly noted and applied and thanks for your input.
The problem now with the model is that it is so delicate that every touch results in something being knock off such as aerials.
I think that that as far as I want to go with it .However there will be a teeny bit more to do when it is attached by chains to the trailer.
The problem now with the model is that it is so delicate that every touch results in something being knock off such as aerials.
I think that that as far as I want to go with it .However there will be a teeny bit more to do when it is attached by chains to the trailer.
PHONETIC
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 09:35 PM UTC
Ok well I have reach that point where I'm going to declare it finished .
And this is where it will live back in the box.
When I was a young boy of about 8 I had this friend who lived next door but one and his mum and dad used to buy him a Corgi or Dinky vehicle every week .
Where as I only used to get one at Christmas or birthdays.
Well he used to have a chieftain tank and an Antar tank transporter, I used to make a bee line for them every time I had the opportunity.
And I said to my self one day I'm going to have a tank and a transporter all of my own.
And this is where it will live back in the box.
When I was a young boy of about 8 I had this friend who lived next door but one and his mum and dad used to buy him a Corgi or Dinky vehicle every week .
Where as I only used to get one at Christmas or birthdays.
Well he used to have a chieftain tank and an Antar tank transporter, I used to make a bee line for them every time I had the opportunity.
And I said to my self one day I'm going to have a tank and a transporter all of my own.
PHONETIC
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Joined: March 11, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 05:38 PM UTC
I changed the colour of the road
so a few more photos to finish off for real this time.
so a few more photos to finish off for real this time.