Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
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2nd time painting faces - advice please
ColinEdm
Associate Editor
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2016 - 05:42 AM UTC
Hi there, I have always been leery of painting figures, especially faces, and yet I want to get the confidence to do it more as they can add so much to a model. I have finally gotten up the courage to paint the figures of my M10 Wolverine and would like some feedback so I can do better. I have a really hard time with the eyes, not sure if I should try to do more or leave as is, and if the shading is ok. Base coat is acrylic, shading with oils. Please take a look and offer up any advice/constructive criticism you can, I want to learn! Thanks!
DocEvan
Joined: August 09, 2014
KitMaker: 180 posts
Armorama: 180 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2016 - 06:19 AM UTC
So far, so good with your work!
For eyes, paint a horizontal white stripe where the eyeballs would be. Add a black dot for the pupils.
Now paint the eyelids over the top and bottom of the eyes/pupils. This eliminates the pop-eyed look that many figure painters don't fix.
Try these sites:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TARUeOXZ7XM
http://www.michtoy.com/FigurePaintingDemo.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=no2zBike6Q0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TARUeOXZ7XM
For eyes, paint a horizontal white stripe where the eyeballs would be. Add a black dot for the pupils.
Now paint the eyelids over the top and bottom of the eyes/pupils. This eliminates the pop-eyed look that many figure painters don't fix.
Try these sites:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TARUeOXZ7XM
http://www.michtoy.com/FigurePaintingDemo.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=no2zBike6Q0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TARUeOXZ7XM
ryally
Joined: July 29, 2005
KitMaker: 879 posts
Armorama: 330 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2016 - 08:43 AM UTC
ahandykindaguy
Joined: August 20, 2008
KitMaker: 1,295 posts
Armorama: 1,191 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2016 - 08:45 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Learn from one of the best
http://media.wix.com/ugd/3a901f_c4b494efed394f06a670bcb3e7738852.pdf
Peter, this is a great tutorial. I wonder how much of it can be extrapolated down to 1/35th scale, for the novice though?
Colin I have been trying to get used to acrylics, and it's difficult to get smooth transitions without using lots of layering with very thin paints and lots of patience.
This doesn't always jive with my A.D.D. fueled get things done and move on temperament. I've tried using various Vallejo shades, and have had some success. Try paint the base coat and a highlight colour, then use red shade for lips and inner ear areas...and brown shade for shadows and blending.
Very small brushes and not much on the tip as far as paint goes....
And lots of practice.
DougCohen
Joined: May 27, 2009
KitMaker: 1,293 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2016 - 09:53 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi there, I have always been leery of painting figures, especially faces, and yet I want to get the confidence to do it more as they can add so much to a model. I have finally gotten up the courage to paint the figures of my M10 Wolverine and would like some feedback so I can do better. I have a really hard time with the eyes, not sure if I should try to do more or leave as is, and if the shading is ok. Base coat is acrylic, shading with oils. Please take a look and offer up any advice/constructive criticism you can, I want to learn! Thanks!
peter all you need is some contrast in the faces, the way they are they will not look like people but more like store front mannequin's, just add some highlights on the parts that stick out and catch the sun light. like this.
you can try the eyes if you like but just a slit of dark color will look fine for your first attempts
DougCohen
Joined: May 27, 2009
KitMaker: 1,293 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2016 - 09:54 PM UTC
this is the picture Peter from my last post , don't know why it did not come out
ryally
Joined: July 29, 2005
KitMaker: 879 posts
Armorama: 330 posts
Posted: Monday, November 21, 2016 - 03:51 AM UTC
Yes I was just showing you for some colours you could use and parts of the face you could put highs and lows. You don't need to use them all but knowing where to change contrast can help
Good luck
Good luck
ColinEdm
Associate EditorJoined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Monday, November 21, 2016 - 05:45 AM UTC
Thanks for all the tips guys!
joepanzer
Joined: January 21, 2004
KitMaker: 803 posts
Armorama: 740 posts
Posted: Monday, November 21, 2016 - 07:05 AM UTC
I agree with Dave Clark about Acrylics. But I am going the other direction. I'm switching up to artist oils. I got tired of the "light coats" lifting up the light coats underneath!
The only problem that I had with oils that turned me off was the dry time. But I found a product called Japan Dryer at the hardware store. It just speeds up the dry time to basically overnight. I have heard that it can make the paint crack, but I believe I only read that it was with "Art" paintings and a thicker impasto.
my zwei pfennig?
That pdf is AWESOME! downloaded it myself. study the photos, but don't limit yourself on color choices. Take Dave's advice on color, and experiment! Image the faces you paint are the faces of the people you encounter-we all don't have the same features and skin tones!
And most of all have fun!
The only problem that I had with oils that turned me off was the dry time. But I found a product called Japan Dryer at the hardware store. It just speeds up the dry time to basically overnight. I have heard that it can make the paint crack, but I believe I only read that it was with "Art" paintings and a thicker impasto.
my zwei pfennig?
That pdf is AWESOME! downloaded it myself. study the photos, but don't limit yourself on color choices. Take Dave's advice on color, and experiment! Image the faces you paint are the faces of the people you encounter-we all don't have the same features and skin tones!
And most of all have fun!
M4A1Sherman
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Monday, November 21, 2016 - 12:27 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I agree with Dave Clark about Acrylics. But I am going the other direction. I'm switching up to artist oils. I got tired of the "light coats" lifting up the light coats underneath!
The only problem that I had with oils that turned me off was the dry time. But I found a product called Japan Dryer at the hardware store. It just speeds up the dry time to basically overnight. I have heard that it can make the paint crack, but I believe I only read that it was with "Art" paintings and a thicker impasto.
my zwei pfennig?
That pdf is AWESOME! downloaded it myself. study the photos, but don't limit yourself on color choices. Take Dave's advice on color, and experiment! Image the faces you paint are the faces of the people you encounter-we all don't have the same features and skin tones!
And most of all have fun!
Hi!
I like to keep the eyeballs on my figures (I model in 1/48 on up to 120mm) understated. (see Doug's post featuring the WWII USN/USMC Aviator photo) Most people tend to squint a bit when they're outdoors, especially in bright sunlight- I like to stay away from "pure White" eyeballs, altogether. White is too stark, and most of the time, contributes greatly in creating that "pop-eyed"-look that the professionals so like to avoid. Pure White is just plain un-realistic. Also, look at your eyes in a mirror. You'll notice that no matter how clear-eyed you are, there are ALWAYS the tiny little Red capillary veins in the corners of your eyeballs present.
I like to use a bit of Caucasian-type Light Flesh instead, and sometimes I even use a "standard" Caucasian Flesh color for the eyeball color, irrespective of my subject's skin color, or physical features, depending on my scenario. Painting the eyelids partially covering the eyeballs is another trick that the professionals use.
I've also mastered the technique of representing eyelashes on my figures, right down to 1/48 scale. All you need to do is paint a darker color on first, BEFORE painting on your figure's eyelids, nearly obliterating the eyelashes. This little "trick" works very well, once you've mastered it. A steady hand is ESSENTIAL. Another good "trick", one that the professional Pin-stripers in the Automobile business use, is tho rest your painting hand on a flat surface, such as your work bench; this practice greatly reduces those "shaking hands" that sometimes plague our "figure and detail-painting chores". I learned all of these little "tricks" way back in the early 1970s, 1971-1972 I believe it was.
Also, skin-tones are varied from individual to individual, and including different ethnic skin coloring, (depending on your geographic scenario) is definitely a plus in Figure Modelling!
Another hint: VARY the color of your subject's hair and eyebrows; not everyone has Black hair, eyebrows and facial hair, which once again, depends on your subject's ethnic and geographical details. This practice will also give your figures a much more realistic quality, and can greatly enhance the details in your subject matter...
parrot
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 04:21 AM UTC
Hey Colin,
Not the best figures to work on for eyes.The gunners face will not show at all and the commander will have binoculars covering his.Only the loader has a complete face showing.
Anyway,being far from the best person to advise on figure painting,I consider mine to be passible at least.I've found these markers at Michaels that have worked well for me.They are in the art section and have extremely fine tips.Not cheap,but affordable and last a long time.I've been using them for eye pupils, eyebrows,chin straps,buttons and anything that needs a fine line.Needs to dry an hour or so and then can be sprayed with a flat coat.
Still have to hold your breath while using them.
Tom
Not the best figures to work on for eyes.The gunners face will not show at all and the commander will have binoculars covering his.Only the loader has a complete face showing.
Anyway,being far from the best person to advise on figure painting,I consider mine to be passible at least.I've found these markers at Michaels that have worked well for me.They are in the art section and have extremely fine tips.Not cheap,but affordable and last a long time.I've been using them for eye pupils, eyebrows,chin straps,buttons and anything that needs a fine line.Needs to dry an hour or so and then can be sprayed with a flat coat.
Still have to hold your breath while using them.
Tom
ColinEdm
Associate EditorJoined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 05:57 AM UTC
Thanks Tom, that looks like a good idea!
ryally
Joined: July 29, 2005
KitMaker: 879 posts
Armorama: 330 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - 02:44 PM UTC
I cant paint a face well but I can tell you a couple of things that might help.
1. Don't paint the eyeball white paint it a light grey... like white grey by Vallejo.
2. Paint the iris part maybe a dark blue not black maybe a field blue or a bit darker.
3. Depending on what you like you could paint the ball part first and then the light grey around it.
It's a bigger figure but the pic shows the blue and grey I am taking about in the eye. You can see how the white grey doesn't pop out at you like just white does.
I worse face below but again the same colours but this time Warhammer 28mm
1. Don't paint the eyeball white paint it a light grey... like white grey by Vallejo.
2. Paint the iris part maybe a dark blue not black maybe a field blue or a bit darker.
3. Depending on what you like you could paint the ball part first and then the light grey around it.
It's a bigger figure but the pic shows the blue and grey I am taking about in the eye. You can see how the white grey doesn't pop out at you like just white does.
I worse face below but again the same colours but this time Warhammer 28mm
M4A1Sherman
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 01:07 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I cant paint a face well but I can tell you a couple of things that might help.
1. Don't paint the eyeball white paint it a light grey... like white grey by Vallejo.
2. Paint the iris part maybe a dark blue not black maybe a field blue or a bit darker.
3. Depending on what you like you could paint the ball part first and then the light grey around it.
It's a bigger figure but the pic shows the blue and grey I am taking about in the eye. You can see how the white grey doesn't pop out at you like just white does.
I worse face below but again the same colours but this time Warhammer 28mm
Peter shows to very good advantage, PRECISELY why I like to use the "Flesh" colors for the eyeball that I described in my previous post. The Light Gray works very well, too!
White is just TOO stark, for my tastes, and for other Figure Modellers as well, just as Peter shows, here... I do the same as Peter does with my irises too, except I like to vary my irises with other colors; I like to vary my colors, using lighter and darker shades of Blue, Green, Gray, and Brown, for my Figures' irises. Pupils, of course, are Black, and sometimes, depending on the scale of my subject, I like to add a tiny dot of White to one side or the other of the pupil, to simulate a reflection of LIGHT in the pupils. Check photos or paintings of humans and animals; this little detail also helps to convey an impression of life in the eyes.
As an added touch, BEFORE I start with the eyelashes, and subsequently, with the eyelids, I like to give each eyeball a little coating of Clear Gloss. Eyes are Glossy, not Flat, so I like to clear-coat them accordingly...
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