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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Tips for acrylic hand painting please.
Vicious
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: September 04, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 03:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


--Dennis , you're diluting it with water then adding back more acrylic resin ..?



My fault: I of course meant Tamiya X-21 Flat base. It is actually a matt medium and when painting figures the amount used is somewhere in the scale of what sticks to the tip of a toothpick. Anyway: thanks for pointing out. Tamiya X-21 Flat base is the weapon of choice.

Artist like Danilo Cartacci use plain tap water and, regarding to his work, I would say that water indeed does come somewhere into higher spheres; judging by the results he achieves.

I do not have a dog in this fight. I do not care what others do. But flat base in combination with water and a high degree of thinning was for me the "breakthrough" when dealing with Vallejos. Just another hint someone could follow. Everybody has to find his own way and if you found something that works: excellent. But it is simply not true that you need Brand thinner to get good results. If some of the world`s best figure painter use the "tap water-system", it can`t be sooo bad.

The hint with the flat base will, depending on the original posters desicions, work with the Vallejo thinner aswell, I guess. But if you try, use the Tamiya one; it is more effective than Vallejos.

Best Regards

Dennis




Yep i quote 101%!...i know sound odd but in the "Figurine world" a tiny-tiny drop of Tamiya X-21 is the way to go for a good flat finish with water based acrylics like Vallejo,a lot's of the top paiters like Cartacci and others use this tecnique,but require some test because if you put too much you stuff-up everything.

I prefere enamel and oils but when i use acrylics for pait figurine i do me to "that madness" and is spot-on!...
urumomo
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Texas, United States
Joined: August 22, 2013
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Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 03:23 AM UTC
so what is this Tamiya X21 Flat Base made of ?
Vicious
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 03:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

so what is this Tamiya X21 Flat Base made of ?



I honestly do not know 'and is not produced for that but it works in small quantities
iakarch
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Louisiana, United States
Joined: May 19, 2007
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Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 09:35 PM UTC
Tamiya's jar paints are lacquer base not Acrylic.
SEDimmick
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Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 10:31 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Tamiya's jar paints are lacquer base not Acrylic.



Not exactly true...they are a solvent based paint that can be cut by either water or "lacquer thinner", which when it comes to hobby based paint is alcohol based with other ingredients added to it.

Typical MSDS for Lacquer thinner that isn't hobby related:

Methanol {Methyl alcohol)
Toluene {Benzene, Methyl-; Toluol}
Acetone
Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)
Isopropyl alcohol

Acetone, MEK and Toluene are used as modelling cements, so I'm assuming that Hobby Based Lacquer thinners don't have them or have them in smaller amounts so they don't craze the plastic.

Getting back to questions at hand:

Why do people prime in Black for figures?
I spray my figures black then go back with white paint at angle to better visualize shadows/highlights. Another pointer...flesh in real life has an very, very subtle greenish tinge to it from your veins and black base coat helps reproduce it.

The other thing with painting with Acrylics...don't try and cover everything with one coat...think thin layers...they dry quickly, so its easy to go back and reapply it. Thin coats also allow bottom layers to show through and allow transition of colors better.

There are a ton of figure painting videos...even wargaming miniature ones are pretty informative since you can apply the same techniques.
urumomo
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Joined: August 22, 2013
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Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 10:45 PM UTC
please stop repeating this
https://www.reference.com/science/color-blood-inside-body-fa63ea8e2ebdc779
IPLawyer
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Virginia, United States
Joined: March 18, 2015
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Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 11:05 PM UTC
As others have said, some pigments have more issues than others with Vallejo. For example, I tend to have fewer problems with the blacks, grays, greens and dark browns colors than with the fleshtones, reds, oranges and yellow in terms of having paint that goes on well.

One big thing I don't think has been mentioned yet on this thread: despite what Vallejo warns you about shaking the bottles up and down, I often need to do this to mix the paint properly, particularly with the fleshtones. If I don't shake the bottle, sometimes my first few drops out of the bottle look like slightly tinted acrylic thinner/carrier.

To avoid the issues with drying out, I tend to do a few drops at a time into the recess of a cheap plastic palette. I then make sure to mix the paint in the recess to make sure the paint is one color and not mainly thinner/carrier. I also tried to periodically dip my brush in a small dish of water to deal with paint drying on the brush.
SEDimmick
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Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 11:25 PM UTC



Why are veins blue....

http://scienceblogs.com/scientificactivist/2008/04/17/why-are-veins-blue/

Still applies, just wrong explanation
SEDimmick
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Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 11:31 PM UTC
Another thing to try is adding a drop of dish detergent to your water (removes surface tension) and using retarder if your having problems with the brush drying out too quickly. I've been painting in my basement in my past two houses, so it doesn't get warmer then 75 or cooler then 63 or so, so don't have heat issues to worry about.
urumomo
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Joined: August 22, 2013
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Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 11:32 PM UTC

Quoted Text




Why are veins blue....

http://scienceblogs.com/scientificactivist/2008/04/17/why-are-veins-blue/

Still applies, just wrong explanation



.... it's the whole " blood changes to red upon exposure to the air " myth that won't die
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