Hey,
I was wondering how I could improve the look of the shiny hydraulic pistons we all meet on armors. I have been using aluminum color but this only looks good from about a mile distance.
I can think of metal foil as an alternative but this is not easy to apply so that the edges won't show. I was also thinking about Alclad and AK's True Metal paints with the later being easier to apply and polish but are there any other alternatives? How are you dealing with these parts? If you could share images of the results you get that would be really great.
Thanks a bunch!
AFV Painting & Weathering
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Replicating shiny hydraulic pistons
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 06:55 PM UTC
Posted: Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 07:06 PM UTC
I think you've mentioned all the major options. Replicating that mirror-like finish is truly a challenge. Sometimes you can replace the plastic piston with a piece of aluminum rod if you can get the right diameter. Even then it's usually not as shiny as the real thing.
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 01:11 AM UTC
That's indeed one more option, Mark!
I'm almost sold on trying out the True Metal waxes. Any suggestion as to which color to use? I'm torn between Aluminium and Silver...
I'm almost sold on trying out the True Metal waxes. Any suggestion as to which color to use? I'm torn between Aluminium and Silver...
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 01:25 AM UTC
Testors Model Master makes a chrome silver color that works for me.
If put on a really smooth surface, it replicates chromed parts well.
If put on a really smooth surface, it replicates chromed parts well.
Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 01:37 AM UTC
Quoted Text
That's indeed one more option, Mark!
I'm almost sold on trying out the True Metal waxes. Any suggestion as to which color to use? I'm torn between Aluminium and Silver...
Christian,
I've not tried the True Metal waxes myself, but they look intriguing.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 02:29 AM UTC
i use Agama metalizer paste for my metal parts,i think is a wax like True Metal waxes,i sometime thinn them with alcool,before i give a base of a similar Enamel color, then with a cloth,cotton swab or something like that i rub the wax,the coverage is really good and you need just a tiny little bit,then when dry (dry really fast) you can polish,i tried to give them with brush a little thinned but dry so' quickly becomes fast a mess .
http://www.jadarhobby.pl/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&inc_subcat=1&keywords=agama+metalizer&pfrom=&pto=&x=0&y=0
http://www.jadarhobby.pl/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&inc_subcat=1&keywords=agama+metalizer&pfrom=&pto=&x=0&y=0
Frenchy
Rhone, France
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 02:32 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Sometimes you can replace the plastic piston with a piece of aluminum rod if you can get the right diameter. Even then it's usually not as shiny as the real thing.
Inox tubing are available as well in small diameters. I've found some 2mm to 8mm ones...
H.P.
Armorsmith
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 02:59 AM UTC
Here in the US car guys use a product called Bare Metal Foil. It is super thin and relatively easy to work with with some practice. It is also self adhesive so there is no need for glue. You might be able to find a similar product on your side.
ahandykindaguy
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 03:59 AM UTC
I wonder if a guy couldn't try gloss varnish ove top a silver paint?
Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 05:00 AM UTC
Watching this post with interest and while I was going through all the great ideas, it occurred to me, I wonder if any of those ideas with a dab or two of gloss coat over them after would make it that much more realistic......if it was an option (testors MM would work with the clear gloss I know)...... Gino, anyone else..... sound like an idea?
ahandykindaguy
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 05:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Watching this post with interest and while I was going through all the great ideas, it occurred to me, I wonder if any of those ideas with a dab or two of gloss coat over them after would make it that much more realistic......if it was an option (testors MM would work with the clear gloss I know)...... Gino, anyone else..... sound like an idea?
Judging by the previous comment Brian I must conclude that great minds do in fact think alike
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 05:23 AM UTC
Yes, a coat of gloss makes the chrome silver even shinier.
accessdenied
Nelson, New Zealand
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 06:08 AM UTC
If you choose to use alloy tube the alloy is easily polished to a realistic sheen by using #0000 or #00000 grade steel wool (furniture polishing grade available at most decent hardware stores).
Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 06:40 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextWatching this post with interest and while I was going through all the great ideas, it occurred to me, I wonder if any of those ideas with a dab or two of gloss coat over them after would make it that much more realistic......if it was an option (testors MM would work with the clear gloss I know)...... Gino, anyone else..... sound like an idea?
Judging by the previous comment Brian I must conclude that great minds do in fact think alike
ROFLMAO.... wonder how in the hell I missed that LOL... I think you had a GREAT idea..... damn thought it was original LOL.....
Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 07:04 AM UTC
Give Vallejo Model Air "Chrome" 71.064 a try...you'll love
the results.
Spray a couple of coats...wait a day or two for it to totally
dry and buff gently.
Cheers,
Joe
the results.
Spray a couple of coats...wait a day or two for it to totally
dry and buff gently.
Cheers,
Joe
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 01:11 PM UTC
Thank you guys for the great ideas! It much appreciated!
I will give he silver paint and clear coat a try as I have those at hand and see if I can lay my hands on some of the waxes and metal tubes with my next order.
I will give he silver paint and clear coat a try as I have those at hand and see if I can lay my hands on some of the waxes and metal tubes with my next order.
Scarred
Washington, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 09:23 PM UTC
When I built cars and big rigs I used bare metal foil on shock absorbers, struts and cylinders. I also used it on oleo struts on aircraft. It looks much better than any paint except alclad. After I finished some home repairs I had about half a roll of aluminum tape for hvac ducts. It's thin, but not too thin and has a pretty strong adhesive. It also come in various thcknesses of tape. I was reading on some sites that it works as a decent substitute for bare metal foil. I'v been meaning to try it out on something round like hydraulic ram to see how it works. Maybe I can do that this weekend.
DocEvan
California, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 10:08 PM UTC
I strongly recommend Molotow's Liquid Chrome marker. It is the closest thing to chrome I've even seen out of a marker. I bought mine directly from them (either directly or from Amazon) for about $11 USD.
Here are some pics:
The intake manifold is the chrome marker; the flathead valve covers are kit chrome.
Here are some pics:
The intake manifold is the chrome marker; the flathead valve covers are kit chrome.
Leopard-2
Bayern, Germany
Joined: November 10, 2009
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Posted: Friday, January 06, 2017 - 10:44 PM UTC
Usually i prime chrome-like parts with a gloss black enamel and then spray Alclad Chrome. One option for piston rods would be replacing them with straigtened and polished silver wire in my opinion. It just depends on the diameter of the real Thing but there are several diameters available.
For example --> http://www.schmuckclub.de/silberdraht/silberdraht-20-mm.php?gclid=CJGTgo3KsNECFQg6Gwod0C8O4g
If you should try this method don't forget to seal the metal with a thin coat of clear gloss paint. Otherwise the silver will oxidize over time and become dark greay to nearly black.
EDIT: After a look at a real hydraulic cylinder a piece of stainless steel wire would look much more realistic and natural in my opinion...
For example --> http://www.schmuckclub.de/silberdraht/silberdraht-20-mm.php?gclid=CJGTgo3KsNECFQg6Gwod0C8O4g
If you should try this method don't forget to seal the metal with a thin coat of clear gloss paint. Otherwise the silver will oxidize over time and become dark greay to nearly black.
EDIT: After a look at a real hydraulic cylinder a piece of stainless steel wire would look much more realistic and natural in my opinion...
DKdent
Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany
Joined: November 27, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 12:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Watching this post with interest and while I was going through all the great ideas, it occurred to me, I wonder if any of those ideas with a dab or two of gloss coat over them after would make it that much more realistic......if it was an option (testors MM would work with the clear gloss I know)...... Gino, anyone else..... sound like an idea?
Hello,
I second Gino. MM Chrome Silver is an excellent stuff. It is, to a degree, polishable with some cotton balls after decent (ergo: overnight!!) drying time.
Evan: this Chrome marker looks pretty interesting too. Thanks for the hint.
Best Regards
Dennis
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 05:37 PM UTC
I also have some left over insulation tape which is really thin and shiny. I'm using that for mirrors and they look great but I'm not sure how to hide the mating edges when around cylinders... How are you dealing with this aspect?
That marker looks great, indeed!
That marker looks great, indeed!
Sandbox
Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 08, 2017 - 05:34 PM UTC
Another option is to use sections of old radio or TV 'rabbit ear' antenna. Cut to length the appropriate diameter.
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, January 08, 2017 - 06:05 PM UTC
That's a rather exotic solution, Jeffrey!
panorama
Germany
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Posted: Sunday, January 08, 2017 - 06:43 PM UTC
almost as a standard I replace the plastik part in my builds with medical syringes. They come in quite a few sizes and can be cut with a dremel (or any other Motor tool) cutting disc. The shine is perfect in my eyes. The work is quite easy with drilling a centered hole at the place where the Piston belongs being the hardest part (I mark the center with a sharp punch and start drilling with a very small diameter. Then you increase the diameter of the drills. This leaves room for corrections at the beginning and limits the force you have to apply to the part.
This gives an idea: http://armorama.com/forums/212779#1787591
This gives an idea: http://armorama.com/forums/212779#1787591
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, January 08, 2017 - 07:14 PM UTC
That's actually a great idea, Michael!
Are these syringes also available in diameters above 2 mm? Where do you get yours if you don't mind me asking?
Are these syringes also available in diameters above 2 mm? Where do you get yours if you don't mind me asking?