Hi Everyone!
My friend Chris from New Zealand gave me a Nashorn (Thanks Mate!) in the early days of the Tank Hunters Campaign. With 60 days left in the campaign, I hope to get this Nashorn completed as well as the Marder IIIH I finished a couple of weeks ago.
It took me about an hour of fiddling with the on-the-sprue indy links to decide that messing with them was too much effort and time. So, I bought and built the Friuls. They're almost ready for the blackening process. They're drying after I washed them to get rid of skin oils and any release agents left behind.
Please feel free to offer any insights.
Gaz
Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
My Friend gave me a Nashorn
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 06:06 AM UTC
Thirian24
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 06:47 AM UTC
Very nice! I'm building the Tamiya Nashorn right now. I just ordered a set of ostketten Friuls for mine.
Do you know what camo scheme you're going to go with yet?
Do you know what camo scheme you're going to go with yet?
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 06:59 AM UTC
Hey Dustin,'
Always glad to hear from you! I'm just going with Dunkelgelb on this go around. I haven't done a plain dunkelgelb build yet, so I reckon this is a good candidate.
Gaz
Always glad to hear from you! I'm just going with Dunkelgelb on this go around. I haven't done a plain dunkelgelb build yet, so I reckon this is a good candidate.
Gaz
Thirian24
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 07:07 AM UTC
That will look great. I've been meaning to do a Dunkelgelb only scheme also. I just can't keep myself away from the camo! Haha
I can't wait to see this come together, Gaz.
I can't wait to see this come together, Gaz.
ColinEdm
Associate Editor
Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 10:45 AM UTC
I'm building the AFV Nashorn for the AFV club campaign, went with the Masterclub tracks, don't think I will be using those again!
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 10:48 AM UTC
Thanks for the note about Masterclub. I'm not much of a guy for buying lots of AM. But tracks that save time are a huge boon to me.
brekinapez
Georgia, United States
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 11:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the note about Masterclub. I'm not much of a guy for buying lots of AM. But tracks that save time are a huge boon to me.
If you google build logs/reviews of this kit you may decide your friend has played a trick on you. Some big fit issues, especially concerning the tracks. I built one - hated it. Bought one of the more recent retools (#6166) and one look in the box made me feel better. Still a buttload of errors in the instructions, though (at least 11, IIRC).
petbat
Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 01:33 PM UTC
Hi Gary
Not the best kit there. Firstly, it has no floor in the fighting compartment.....
This was Dragons first armour kit and it and the Hummel have many faults. However, a quick fix is build it and put a TARP over the fighting compartment to hide the inside. That will fix a lot
Not the best kit there. Firstly, it has no floor in the fighting compartment.....
This was Dragons first armour kit and it and the Hummel have many faults. However, a quick fix is build it and put a TARP over the fighting compartment to hide the inside. That will fix a lot
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 02:06 PM UTC
Peter,
Thanks for the heads-up. I'd planned on making up for any perceived shortfalls in the interior by filling it with crew.
But now I see I'll have to scratch the floor. I can do something like that...I think. ...just have to buy some card and crew.
....I need some serious figure practice, anyway.
Gaz
Thanks for the heads-up. I'd planned on making up for any perceived shortfalls in the interior by filling it with crew.
But now I see I'll have to scratch the floor. I can do something like that...I think. ...just have to buy some card and crew.
....I need some serious figure practice, anyway.
Gaz
ColinEdm
Associate Editor
Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 07:53 PM UTC
Yeah, If you want to save time, DON'T go with Masterclub tracks, drilling out the pin holes for each and every link killed me and the tiny pins for each link are a pain, great accuracy/detail, but a pain. Kaizen would be better, or just stick with the Magic Tracks that came with the kit. (Or I have the AFV Club rubber band tracks I can send you lol).
Armorsmith
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 08:44 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the note about Masterclub. I'm not much of a guy for buying lots of AM. But tracks that save time a
are a huge boon to me.
I've used Masterclub tracks and don't have a problem with them. Their metal tracks are just like Fruils except they use tiny plastic pins instead of wire to connect the links. Admittedly the pins are fragile but you get tons of extra. As the tracks are drilled just like Fruils could replace the plastic pins with wire. Best thing about them is that they are about $10 cheaper than Fruils. They also make workable resin tracks that are cheaper still but I have never used those.
ColinEdm
Associate Editor
Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 11:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThanks for the note about Masterclub. I'm not much of a guy for buying lots of AM. But tracks that save time a
are a huge boon to me.
I've used Masterclub tracks and don't have a problem with them. Their metal tracks are just like Fruils except they use tiny plastic pins instead of wire to connect the links. Admittedly the pins are fragile but you get tons of extra. As the tracks are drilled just like Fruils could replace the plastic pins with wire. Best thing about them is that they are about $10 cheaper than Fruils. They also make workable resin tracks that are cheaper still but I have never used those.
Yeah, I have the resin ones, can't comment on the metal ones, but the resin ones were a PITA, great end result but very time consuming and back breaking (hunched over drilling them out and drinking around with the pins lol).
wedgetail53
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 04:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Peter,
Thanks for the heads-up. I'd planned on making up for any perceived shortfalls in the interior by filling it with crew.
But now I see I'll have to scratch the floor. I can do something like that...I think. ...just have to buy some card and crew.
....I need some serious figure practice, anyway.
Gaz
G'day Gaz
One point to note is that you will find that the breech and sights are too high for the crew to easily reach. The solution to this was that they put a single layer of ammunition boxes on the floor of the fighting compartment and stood on those.
Have fun.
By the way, I agree with all the previous comments regarding the quality of the kit.
Regards
Rob
Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 05:03 AM UTC
Just wanted to say in my defense that I'd informed Gazza about the fit issues and quality and told him he'd be in for a challenge. He however was more than willing to accept it and my gentle teasing has inveigled him to build it.
Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 07:20 AM UTC
Its true, I was warned, but being an aircraft model builder as well, I'm no stranger to sanding, filling and all the fun and cursing that may accompany it.
And since I'm no aficionado regarding the Nashorn, its conceivable that I may not notice any inaccuracies.
After blackening the Friuls, I turned my attentions to the chassis and running gear. Except for my preference for the large fixtures that I associate with Tamiya armoured kits, I haven't been disappointed.
In 1979 I would have traded my sister for a Nashorn. So, colour me quite happy so far.
Gaz
And since I'm no aficionado regarding the Nashorn, its conceivable that I may not notice any inaccuracies.
After blackening the Friuls, I turned my attentions to the chassis and running gear. Except for my preference for the large fixtures that I associate with Tamiya armoured kits, I haven't been disappointed.
In 1979 I would have traded my sister for a Nashorn. So, colour me quite happy so far.
Gaz
Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 08:25 AM UTC
In 1979 I was in my last year of High School and depending on the age of said sister I may have willingly agreed LOL. I'm pleased you're enjoying it so far buddy let me know if you need dimensions taken off of the reworked kit if you wanna scratch build anything.
Posted: Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 01:22 PM UTC
Hi Everyone,
I've got the PaK built, and have advanced further on the chassis:
I won't complain too much about the build. I had to cope with a bit of barrel warp, but everything else was pretty much stuff one can expect.
I painted the hull running gear Dunkelgelb, then used various sized Sharpies for all of the rubber on the road wheels and idlers. Worked a lot better than a paint brush.
Then I used an oil wash to highlight details then made my first play with pastels. I only used brown shades, just to see what would happen. When I use pastels on the wheels and hull again, I'll add some greys and yellows and whites to vary the shades. I've also got to do some streaking from the long exhaust pipes.
I'm kinda happy with what happened with the oil wash and pastels.
Thanks for looking!
Gaz
I've got the PaK built, and have advanced further on the chassis:
I won't complain too much about the build. I had to cope with a bit of barrel warp, but everything else was pretty much stuff one can expect.
I painted the hull running gear Dunkelgelb, then used various sized Sharpies for all of the rubber on the road wheels and idlers. Worked a lot better than a paint brush.
Then I used an oil wash to highlight details then made my first play with pastels. I only used brown shades, just to see what would happen. When I use pastels on the wheels and hull again, I'll add some greys and yellows and whites to vary the shades. I've also got to do some streaking from the long exhaust pipes.
I'm kinda happy with what happened with the oil wash and pastels.
Thanks for looking!
Gaz
denstore
Skåne, Sweden
Joined: January 05, 2009
KitMaker: 83 posts
Armorama: 69 posts
Joined: January 05, 2009
KitMaker: 83 posts
Armorama: 69 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 01:54 PM UTC
There where quite a lot of aftermarket sets around for the original Dragon Nashorn. I spent loads of time and money to find them all, and it was possible to make the kit quite good with them. As I remember, the ones that made the most impact on the kit was the Eduard interior sets, and the Show Modelling etch. There where a couple of update set for the 88 that where very good. One almost complete replacement gun from ModelKasten, and one less advanced, but much cheaper and almost as good from CMK.
Posted: Friday, March 31, 2017 - 11:01 AM UTC
Hi Everyone,
After a few weeks of building, I'm closing in on the finish line. I'm still learning things like oil washes and pigments.
One thing I wanted to do was wear on heavy use areas. Places where the guy's hands and boots and even trouser seats caused paint to wear away.
As a USMC artilleryman, I knew what a well worn breech and it's mechanisms should look like. Of course, translating knowledge into a kit doesn't always go as planned.
This kit has the distinction of me using pigments on it for the first time. Although I like the randomness in the patterns made by the pigments, I still need to get the color balance right.
To wear the acrylic paint from the lacquer takes only a few brushes of a water-dampened cotton swap. And I don't have to borrow me Mrs. hairspray!
Gaz
After a few weeks of building, I'm closing in on the finish line. I'm still learning things like oil washes and pigments.
One thing I wanted to do was wear on heavy use areas. Places where the guy's hands and boots and even trouser seats caused paint to wear away.
As a USMC artilleryman, I knew what a well worn breech and it's mechanisms should look like. Of course, translating knowledge into a kit doesn't always go as planned.
This kit has the distinction of me using pigments on it for the first time. Although I like the randomness in the patterns made by the pigments, I still need to get the color balance right.
To wear the acrylic paint from the lacquer takes only a few brushes of a water-dampened cotton swap. And I don't have to borrow me Mrs. hairspray!
Gaz
wedgetail53
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Posted: Friday, March 31, 2017 - 02:54 PM UTC
G'day Gaz
Missed you today - were you flooded in?
Regards
Rob
Missed you today - were you flooded in?
Regards
Rob
Posted: Friday, March 31, 2017 - 03:57 PM UTC
Quoted Text
G'day Gaz
Missed you today - were you flooded in?
Regards
Rob
Hi Rob,
I live on the wrong side of the river. Since the flood wasn't due to peak until 2pm, I decided to stay home vice the possibility of getting stranded somewhere.
My daughter and I went down to the river at 2pm just to see what was going on. The Police were only letting one car on the bridge at a time as the water was moving quite fast and touching the underside of the bridge it's entire span.
With flooding to the south of me as well as the rising river to the north, I reluctantly had to give up on going to the meeting.
Gaz
petbat
Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 01, 2017 - 03:22 AM UTC
Wrong side of the river - which one? Didn't want to be up the river without a paddle??
Yeah a few roads were cut off, but you could still get around to Loganlea via Kingston road, but Scrubby creek was a bit high on Kingston road on the way in. Then the traffic was log jam too.
Be honest, you just wanted to finish the Nashorn
See ya next month maybe. Its a comp month, put the finished Nashorn in
Yeah a few roads were cut off, but you could still get around to Loganlea via Kingston road, but Scrubby creek was a bit high on Kingston road on the way in. Then the traffic was log jam too.
Be honest, you just wanted to finish the Nashorn
See ya next month maybe. Its a comp month, put the finished Nashorn in
Posted: Saturday, April 01, 2017 - 03:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Wrong side of the river - which one? Didn't want to be up the river without a paddle??
Yeah a few roads were cut off, but you could still get around to Loganlea via Kingston road, but Scrubby creek was a bit high on Kingston road on the way in. Then the traffic was log jam too.
Be honest, you just wanted to finish the Nashorn
See ya next month maybe. Its a comp month, put the finished Nashorn in
Heh! The Nashorn is nowhere near finished. I live on the Beenleigh side of the river. The bridges on Kingston road are now close. Tried to go up about 20 minutes ago.
Trust me. I would have been there, otherwise.
Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2017 - 12:55 AM UTC
Interesting idea for showing wear Gazza like what I'm seeing. How was the fit of the superstructure? I had read in reviews that it was problematic but yours seems to have assembled okay. I hope you're enjoying the build I'm enjoying watching your progress.
Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2017 - 03:24 AM UTC
HI Chris,
I didn't have much trouble with the superstructure. I inserted a piece of thin plastic card at the rear between the hull and superstructure, and I used a little putty to make the seams between the rear plate and side plates disappear.
Where I did have trouble was with the two curved plates that make up the forward gun shield. The plans are quite ambiguous when it comes to the location of parts. So, when I added the shields to the gun, I used what I thought was common sense placing by joining outside corners of the trunnion base to the inside corners built into the gun shield.
To my horror, once I inserted the gun into it's position, there was a 6mm gap between shield and front plates of the superstructure.
I furiously studied photos and kit diagrams to see where I'd gone wrong. The only solution was to remove the gun shields and move them as far forward as the rest of the superstructure would allow. This enabled me to reduce the gap to about 2mm. Enough to hide in photos, but not enough for close scrutiny.
so, not much extra work at all. I'm weathering now, waiting for the oil streaking to dry. In a couple of days I should be able to use some pastels to dust it up a bit.
Gaz
I didn't have much trouble with the superstructure. I inserted a piece of thin plastic card at the rear between the hull and superstructure, and I used a little putty to make the seams between the rear plate and side plates disappear.
Where I did have trouble was with the two curved plates that make up the forward gun shield. The plans are quite ambiguous when it comes to the location of parts. So, when I added the shields to the gun, I used what I thought was common sense placing by joining outside corners of the trunnion base to the inside corners built into the gun shield.
To my horror, once I inserted the gun into it's position, there was a 6mm gap between shield and front plates of the superstructure.
I furiously studied photos and kit diagrams to see where I'd gone wrong. The only solution was to remove the gun shields and move them as far forward as the rest of the superstructure would allow. This enabled me to reduce the gap to about 2mm. Enough to hide in photos, but not enough for close scrutiny.
so, not much extra work at all. I'm weathering now, waiting for the oil streaking to dry. In a couple of days I should be able to use some pastels to dust it up a bit.
Gaz