I want to add a spare wheel under the rear, in front of the rear bumper like in these pictures:

http://data3.primeportal.net/trucks/don_busack/m1008_cucv/images/m1008_cucv_04_of_12.jpg
http://data3.primeportal.net/trucks/don_busack/m1008_cucv/images/m1008_cucv_05_of_12.jpg

I made a mold of a couple wheels from the kit so I can cast one for this roll. What does it look like when it's mounted? Should I drill out the center hub or leave that detail in place?



Thanks for looking...

The photo album: http://imgur.com/a/US5PM

Hi KS - nice work as always! Regarding your question, I'd use the tire/wheel on the left - and yes, would drill out the center - and, add smaller holes where the lug nuts are shown. The tire/wheel on the left is a rear wheel of a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. If this were a 1 ton truck, a larger protrusion would be shown in the wheel center/hub - which would represent a heavy duty, "full floating" axle hub with a higher payload rating than the 1/2 or 3/4 ton rear end.

The tire/wheel on the right is likely intended to represent an "automatic locking hub", only used on the front axle. Chevy trucks offered a variety of ways to engage the four wheel drive system - some that are full time, where the front axle is always engaged. Next, what's likeky intended here, is a part-time system, which can be engaged via a mechanism in the transfer case activated by the driver - but, the hubs shown sometimes wore out or stuck, so a third option, manually locking hubs were available. For these, the driver has to get out of the truck and manually turn a small lever in the center of the hub to engage the four wheel drive system - by "locking" the hub. The latter was very popular among off-roaders and many after market conversions were available.

While the hubs are different for the front and rear axles, the wheel is the same and can be/is used for either.

Regarding spare storage under the bed - there was a small winch mounted between the frame rails behind the rear axle. It towed a chain which was used to raise or lower the tire. Another option was a hinged arm, also mounted between the frame rails behind the rear axle, which when unlocked could pivot up or down to raise or lower the spare. Both were/are a pain and slow to use! Especially if stuck in mud, rocks, or sand - ask me how I know haha!

Hope this helps

Nick

Wow, very useful information. Thanks, Nick

Hi KS - glad the info is of interest. I went back and looked at the photo you have linked above. If you look carefully at the sideview of the truck, you'll see two things.

First, the front hubs appear to be the manual locking type - although a bit hard to see, there appears to be a horizontal bar running the width of the center of the hub. The driver can twist this bar to lock or unlock the hub.

Next, if you look at the rear hub, you can see how it protrudes outward past the rim - this houses axle races/bearings and is known as a full floating axle which is heavy duty, allowing the vehicle to carry a heavier load that the 1/2 ton, and stock 3/4 ton version. The full floating axle is supported by a bigger rear differential and more leaf springs than the other two -

Cheers
Nick

Yes, I see that. Looks like I'll need to do a little scratch building for that rear hub

The brush guard is glued to the front bumper but just dry fit onto the front clip. I'll glue it on after all painting is done.

In a previous post I noted that I shaved off the lower end mounts that were suppose to be left on to help position it correctly onto the front bumper. To correct this, I scratch built a couple mounts that look a little more accurate to the real thing.

I used PE-13 from the PE set included with the kit. I wasn't going to use this part because it was for rear bench seats in the truck bed. Since I wasn't going to install these bench seats in my model, I wasn't going to install the 3 brackets along the top ridge of the bed sides.


I cut two 3mm lengths from PE-13 and used the fold to make the bracket mounts. They worked out perfectly.




Then the 8 rivet heads were sliced from MENG's set and glued into position referenced on-line.

It looks like it's wearing glasses now

The suspension parts, axles, and transmission parts are glued into position.

The 4 struts (part #8) seem to be for the M1009 in the assembly instructions since MmF makes both kits. The CUCV technical manual that Mustang1989 provided a link show the positions a little different specifically for the M1008.

Now it's ready for primer. The longer drive shaft and exhaust pipe will be painted separately then glued on later after assembly of the bed and cab.



thanks for looking...

This is the tail pipe after primer. It already has a hollow end for realism. I don't need to drill it out

The rear bumper is assembled and ready for primer. A few things are not clearly illustrated in the assembly instructions but were pretty easy to adapt and figure out.




(PE-15) is the trailer power supply receptacle cover. The assembly instructions does not describe this part. I saw it on ref pictures on the internet so I wanted to include it on my model.

It would look too flat if I just glued it into position on the bumper so I adapted the receptacle part. First, I found a piece of guitar string (from my brother's guitar). It was just about the right thickness for the spring loaded hinge. The receptacle was a stack of 3 (PE-6) parts that is for the M1009 kit. (The same PE set is included in both the M1008 and M1009 kits) Then I glued (PE-15) on top. It looks about right now.

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The diamond plate (PE-11) slightly over hangs the center area of the rear bumper. I suppose I could have filed it flush with the contour of that cavity after I glued it in place but I didn't.

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(PE-9) is not described in the M1008 assembly instructions but it looked like it belonged over (PE-10) based on internet ref pictures. However, (PE-9) is described in the assembly instructions for the M1009 kit.

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Rear bumper assembly is complete with exception to the tow shackles. I glued four rivets from a Meng set. Two on each end.

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Thanks for looking

Hi Nick, or anyone else that is watching this build. I'm starting to paint color today and have another question regarding the spare wheel. What color would the steel wheel part be? Body color green or gloss black or ?

http://data3.primeportal.net/trucks/don_busack/m1008_cucv/images/m1008_cucv_05_of_12.jpg

thanks in advance for any good info

I got a little more done this week.

The posts for the side, rear view mirrors are not included in the kit so I made them from wire as suggested in the kit's I-sheets.

The base color is MM1714 (FS-34127) Forest Green, shot through my AB. After I made a new swatch that color just looked the best.

Next update is the lights, front lights lenses, and tail light casted blocks.

The reflective head light parabolas are painted with Molotow liquid chrome. Clear orange on the tip of a brush was touched at the back of the turn signals. The four lenses are clear resin. The front are convex and the backs are concave, man these guys don't miss the details.

The tail light blocks are also clear resin. They fit flush on the outside but have huge gaps around the edges. They are also left and right, top and bottom. This was discovered by dry fitting first. I painted the backs of these with the Molotow pens then masked off the little, reverse light, rectangles and painted the outside with clear red acrylic.

The wiper blades and arms are included as PE in this kit. Next time I build one of these I will NOT cut the blade off of the arm like I did with (A). Leave it attached like (B) and just articulate it against the windshield glass.

Now I have to glue that tiny part back onto another tiny part.

In a rush to assemble and finish this model I didn't notice the slight warpidge of the cab shell part and the alignment issue with the bed.

The front/right fender area is warped so slightly that I didn't see it until after it was assembled. The rear bed misalignment was due to how the rear/right leaf spring sits on top of the rear axle.

I carefully removed the rear axle from the leaf spring, ok. Then I was pulling out the floor part from the cab and it sort of exploded. Luckily every thing landed on the bench top and on my lap so no damage. I just pulled on the magic part and it all just disassembled itself very, very rapidly.

Minimanfactory: Good kit subjects, poor products, and bad customer service.Never again.