I'll add a section of micro spring at the place of the molded on "ring" next to the filling/breathing point to replicate the threaded piece of tube that was welded there,tho!
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MENG 1/35 King Tiger WITH INTERIOR
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 05:17 PM UTC
Just couldn't be @#sed to scrape off the transmission refilling/breathing pipes because once the glacis plate will be glued on the difference between a 1/35 molded-on 0.5mm pipe and a glued on round one wouldn't be very noticeable!Until last year I'd have done that now...well...
I'll add a section of micro spring at the place of the molded on "ring" next to the filling/breathing point to replicate the threaded piece of tube that was welded there,tho!
I'll add a section of micro spring at the place of the molded on "ring" next to the filling/breathing point to replicate the threaded piece of tube that was welded there,tho!
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 05:20 PM UTC
On to the casting texture now!
I'm currently experimenting with various media and the best way(s) to make them stick to the surface!A gloss laquer or a paint that wil remain sticky would be your best bet here,but the secret is NOT to build up a thick layer and to sprinkle the powder of your choice immediately after you've airbrushed the base coat on the part(s)!Any area that has to remain free from the texture and medium can be covered with masking fluid!
Here I'm trying with the now unobtainable Cast-A-Coat powders and the medium I use with my CA glue to make "chemical" welds...it's about the same constincency as baking soda but I advise AGAINST using the latter because it's HIGHLY hygroscopic!
I have several fillers I use when I cast resin as well but they're not where I am now and I have to make do whith what I have!
I'm currently experimenting with various media and the best way(s) to make them stick to the surface!A gloss laquer or a paint that wil remain sticky would be your best bet here,but the secret is NOT to build up a thick layer and to sprinkle the powder of your choice immediately after you've airbrushed the base coat on the part(s)!Any area that has to remain free from the texture and medium can be covered with masking fluid!
Here I'm trying with the now unobtainable Cast-A-Coat powders and the medium I use with my CA glue to make "chemical" welds...it's about the same constincency as baking soda but I advise AGAINST using the latter because it's HIGHLY hygroscopic!
I have several fillers I use when I cast resin as well but they're not where I am now and I have to make do whith what I have!
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 05:22 PM UTC
CA medium for "chemical weldings" on a Pz IV transmission cover!The German Yellow is the great Vallejo primer....as stinky as a mat of stomped stinkbugs but it covers wonderfully and after it's perfectly cured it will be impervious to rough handling!
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 05:24 PM UTC
To get rid of any "high" spot or to blend everything in you could stipple on a layer of Mr Surfacer,diluted white glue or airbrush "aimed" layers of primer/paint!
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 05:26 PM UTC
Cast-A-Coat Powder "A"
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 05:33 PM UTC
Cast-A-Coat powder "B"...good for russian turrets or 1/16 rough castings!
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 05:35 PM UTC
When using this method, after you've liberally sprinkled the powder of your choice over the wet base coat, tap the part(s) to ged rid of surplus medium and AFTER the base coat has cured "dry brush" the part to remove more loose stuff on the surface!Since these media are quite often mineral sands ground into talc-like powder don't use your best flat paint..a soft,wide blush one will be enough,or a stiffer one if you want to be 101% sure to annoy that pedant "particle-counter" at the show!LOL
Cheers
Manu
Cheers
Manu
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Monday, May 22, 2017 - 12:09 AM UTC
The transmission is almost finished and I've temporarily "clicked" it in space to align the driving sprockets axle's covers with the drum brakes.I've added a texture to the transmission block and some casting numbers, even if very little will remain visible once the fighting compartment's roof will be glued on the superstructure.I could leave it off but I fear that given the flimsiness of the roof and the sides of the upper hull with time something could eventually warp!In this last area Takom KT is a step above Meng in that you'll find internal "walls" for the upper hull in order to have a real in-scale armour thickness.Apart from that, a "welded" upper hull that can be lifted wouldn't be very realistic IMO and I'd rather leave off all the bolted on plates,like the one over the RO and driver and the engine deck!
Cheers
Manu
[URL=http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/cqb45/media/IMG_0619_zpsytvnjwhk.jpg.html][IMG]http:
Cheers
Manu
[URL=http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/cqb45/media/IMG_0619_zpsytvnjwhk.jpg.html][IMG]http:
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Monday, May 22, 2017 - 12:15 AM UTC
The driver's seat is a kit in itself and I've added the cushions piping and the cushions retaining straps,bolt heads and so on.The levers have been scratchbuilt out of aluminum tubing and other smaller details have been added here and there,last but not least the transmission cover made of lead foil!
Driver's seat,transmission,fuel tanks and engine just clicked in their place and can be removed at any time for adding details,wires and tubing.
Cheers
Manu
Driver's seat,transmission,fuel tanks and engine just clicked in their place and can be removed at any time for adding details,wires and tubing.
Cheers
Manu
Removed by original poster on 05/23/17 - 18:58:19 (GMT).
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 12:01 AM UTC
I didn't like the stowage box under the turret's floor bolted to the gas tank,therefore I've scratchbuilt three before I'd finally get one I liked!
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 12:10 AM UTC
While I was at it I've added a few more details and planned on changing things around a bit.For starters I've scratchbuilt a new support for the turret rotating mechanism.I've carefully "shaved" the stays, cast on the Meng part, and glued them to the motor.
I've added an oblong slit for the transmission oil level check,the ring on top of the oil dipstick,the rest for the driver's heel on the gas pedal and wires made of 0,6mm spring with cores made of solder and copper wire in order to be able to give them any shape without having them sproinging back...pun intended!
More to come!
Cheers
M
I've added an oblong slit for the transmission oil level check,the ring on top of the oil dipstick,the rest for the driver's heel on the gas pedal and wires made of 0,6mm spring with cores made of solder and copper wire in order to be able to give them any shape without having them sproinging back...pun intended!
More to come!
Cheers
M
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 12:12 AM UTC
Since I'm rather confident that the VERY TINY gear lever with round knob will soon be snapped off I've made a few more out of 0,25mm copper wire by melting the end of the wire into a round knob with a buthane torch.It take a bit to learn the right technique but it works!
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 12:24 AM UTC
In between building subassemblies I'm getting ready to paint some.Last year I've had the local paint shop prepare a bottle of one of the various shades of Red Oxide Primer identical to the one found on and inside a box from an SdKfz10 in my collection (the box..not the vehicle!),it's acrylic but I have mixed it with 30% laquer thinner and 70% Gunze Mr. Levelling thinner and it goes on silky smooth.
I've also made a few trials with several shades of "Elfenbein" and I've found that the ones I like most,going from hi-res pictures of the original paint inside preserved AFVs are the RAL 1014, the RAL 1015 and the old Humbrol 103.
I must try a mix of 50% 1015 and 50% 1014 and see how it turns out!IMO the Extracolor 818 is a bit off.
Please bear with me with the quality of the photo....it's been taken in the sunlight with my iPhone7 and I've doctored it a bit!
I've also made a few trials with several shades of "Elfenbein" and I've found that the ones I like most,going from hi-res pictures of the original paint inside preserved AFVs are the RAL 1014, the RAL 1015 and the old Humbrol 103.
I must try a mix of 50% 1015 and 50% 1014 and see how it turns out!IMO the Extracolor 818 is a bit off.
Please bear with me with the quality of the photo....it's been taken in the sunlight with my iPhone7 and I've doctored it a bit!
wedgetail53
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 03:52 AM UTC
G'day Manu
I used the Tamiya Red Oxide Primer (in the rattle can) for my primer and found it quite successful. My Cremeweiss was a mix of Deck Tan and White (both Tamiya) until it looked about right.
Regards
Rob
I used the Tamiya Red Oxide Primer (in the rattle can) for my primer and found it quite successful. My Cremeweiss was a mix of Deck Tan and White (both Tamiya) until it looked about right.
Regards
Rob
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 06:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
G'day Manu
I used the Tamiya Red Oxide Primer (in the rattle can) for my primer and found it quite successful. My Cremeweiss was a mix of Deck Tan and White (both Tamiya) until it looked about right.
Regards
Rob
Hi Bob,
I'd rather have the local paint shop mix the paints I need because they use the best pigments and I have fun doing that with the guys ;-) !I've been into restoring classic cars and bikes for years and they've been always very helpful,as a matter of fact the original chips of "elfenbein" I own are 99,9% identical to both the RAL 1014 and RAL 1015 and a mix of the two with the good ole Humbrol 103 coming in third,but when it looks right to ME that's OK!I've made a frew trials with the "1014" and a mix of 50% the latter with 50% "1015" and I must say that I like that a lot!
The ROP I use is a one of the many shades copied directly from one of the pieces in my collection of WW2 German Militaria and equipment!
If you use the rattle cans have you tried to decant the paint in a jar,LET IT VENT OVERNIGHT (that's VITAL) and then try various paint/thinner ratios?You'll be amazed to see how good they are when airbrushed,in fact the guys at the paint shop mix the paints for me and put them in jars but if I had to paint a 1/6 RC tank I'd go for the rattle cans!
Bestest
M
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 07:12 PM UTC
To break the routine I've tackled the turret and its many subassemblies!
Since the floor is made of relatively heavy-gauge anti-skid plate with the texture visible on the hidden side I've decided to replicate that by burnishing some household aluminum foil on a sheet of brass anti-skid plate.
I've made templates and carefully cut the various sections with fresh Swan & Morton blades.I've textured the various parts with a q-tip and used Micro Scale foiling adesive thinly spread on both the plastic and the back of the foil.
I've used a stiff brush to make the foil adhere to the kit part and I've blended-in the edges with Gunze White putty diluted with Tamiya extra-thin cement.I work from the edge toward the middle of the aluminum panel because this way it will be easier to leave just a minimum of diluted putty on the edges and wipe off the rest with a flat brush moistened with Tamiya cement!
Cheers
Manu
Since the floor is made of relatively heavy-gauge anti-skid plate with the texture visible on the hidden side I've decided to replicate that by burnishing some household aluminum foil on a sheet of brass anti-skid plate.
I've made templates and carefully cut the various sections with fresh Swan & Morton blades.I've textured the various parts with a q-tip and used Micro Scale foiling adesive thinly spread on both the plastic and the back of the foil.
I've used a stiff brush to make the foil adhere to the kit part and I've blended-in the edges with Gunze White putty diluted with Tamiya extra-thin cement.I work from the edge toward the middle of the aluminum panel because this way it will be easier to leave just a minimum of diluted putty on the edges and wipe off the rest with a flat brush moistened with Tamiya cement!
Cheers
Manu
acebatau
Joined: February 10, 2008
KitMaker: 730 posts
Armorama: 616 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 08:08 PM UTC
Amazing!
supaderpa
Joined: March 28, 2016
KitMaker: 157 posts
Armorama: 140 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 12:10 AM UTC
Astounding progress sir. I'll probably be building mine mostly OOB as I doubt I have the chops to detail it up as well as you. At best I can fix up the minor errors and add some wiring.
Keep up the good work!
Keep up the good work!
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 02:16 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Amazing!
Thank you for appreciating my humble efforts,Bat!
Cheers
Manu
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 02:23 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Astounding progress sir. I'll probably be building mine mostly OOB as I doubt I have the chops to detail it up as well as you. At best I can fix up the minor errors and add some wiring.
Keep up the good work!
Thank you Bryan!
I'm sure that you can do the same even if,truth be told,the kit would build into a superb replica even without adding too much!
If you're going to build the "standard" kit.i.e. the one without the torsion bars found into the interior and "workable" track sets pay attention to the swingarms for they'll give the roadwheels an annoying positive camber that will stick out like a forest of sore thumbs!I'll be glad to help you and solve the problem should it arise!
Cheers
wedgetail53
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 04:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Bob,
I'd rather have the local paint shop mix the paints I need because they use the best pigments and I have fun doing that with the guys ;-) !I've been into restoring classic cars and bikes for years and they've been always very helpful,as a matter of fact the original chips of "elfenbein" I own are 99,9% identical to both the RAL 1014 and RAL 1015 and a mix of the two with the good ole Humbrol 103 coming in third,but when it looks right to ME that's OK!I've made a frew trials with the "1014" and a mix of 50% the latter with 50% "1015" and I must say that I like that a lot!
The ROP I use is a one of the many shades copied directly from one of the pieces in my collection of WW2 German Militaria and equipment!
If you use the rattle cans have you tried to decant the paint in a jar,LET IT VENT OVERNIGHT (that's VITAL) and then try various paint/thinner ratios?You'll be amazed to see how good they are when airbrushed,in fact the guys at the paint shop mix the paints for me and put them in jars but if I had to paint a 1/6 RC tank I'd go for the rattle cans!
Bestest
M
G'day Manu
Unfortunately my nearest hobby store is about 20km away and usually, when I'm modelling they're closed, which is why I use my own mixes. Hey, if it works, it's not a problem IMHO.
As for decanting the rattle can, yes, done that - it's what I use for touching up little bits which the rattle can has missed.
Regards
Rob
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 12:51 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextHi Bob,
I'd rather have the local paint shop mix the paints I need because they use the best pigments and I have fun doing that with the guys ;-) !I've been into restoring classic cars and bikes for years and they've been always very helpful,as a matter of fact the original chips of "elfenbein" I own are 99,9% identical to both the RAL 1014 and RAL 1015 and a mix of the two with the good ole Humbrol 103 coming in third,but when it looks right to ME that's OK!I've made a frew trials with the "1014" and a mix of 50% the latter with 50% "1015" and I must say that I like that a lot!
The ROP I use is a one of the many shades copied directly from one of the pieces in my collection of WW2 German Militaria and equipment!
If you use the rattle cans have you tried to decant the paint in a jar,LET IT VENT OVERNIGHT (that's VITAL) and then try various paint/thinner ratios?You'll be amazed to see how good they are when airbrushed,in fact the guys at the paint shop mix the paints for me and put them in jars but if I had to paint a 1/6 RC tank I'd go for the rattle cans!
Bestest
M
G'day Manu
Unfortunately my nearest hobby store is about 20km away and usually, when I'm modelling they're closed, which is why I use my own mixes. Hey, if it works, it's not a problem IMHO.
As for decanting the rattle can, yes, done that - it's what I use for touching up little bits which the rattle can has missed.
Regards
Rob
G'day Rob,
believe it or not last time I've bought from a hobby shop has been in 1994/95..now I only buy at shows or online!
The paints I need I either buy them off eBay or have my trusty body shop made them for me and what's inside a rattle can cost me 6 AUD and would last forever!
You've hit the nail on the head big time...if a mix or a paint found in a 7-Eleven works and looks OK...IT's OK!
I've been looking for your KT build but couldn't find it to save my life...any chance to have a link,M8?
Cheers
Manu
wedgetail53
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 01:27 PM UTC
[quoteI've been looking for your KT build but couldn't find it to save my life...any chance to have a link,M8?
Cheers
Manu [/quote]
G'day Manu
You won't find it 'cos I haven't posted it yet!
A situation I will try to rectify shortly. Currently I'm scratchbuilding the top ammo rack on each side of the turret so that I can show them empty. The dio I am proposing will have some of the crew reloading.
Regards
Rob
Cheers
Manu
[/quote]G'day Manu
You won't find it 'cos I haven't posted it yet!
A situation I will try to rectify shortly. Currently I'm scratchbuilding the top ammo rack on each side of the turret so that I can show them empty. The dio I am proposing will have some of the crew reloading.
Regards
Rob
canuck63
Joined: December 23, 2003
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 05:17 PM UTC
Quoted Text
[quoteI've been looking for your KT build but couldn't find it to save my life...any chance to have a link,M8?
Cheers
Manu
G'day Manu
You won't find it 'cos I haven't posted it yet!
A situation I will try to rectify shortly. Currently I'm scratchbuilding the top ammo rack on each side of the turret so that I can show them empty. The dio I am proposing will have some of the crew reloading.
Regards
Rob
[/quote]
Ciao Rob,
I own both the Meng and the Takom offerings and even if Meng's is more "refined" and better researched, upon a second check I must honestly admit that the Takom ain't bad at all,even if,truth be told,some interior components are deffo more thick-eared than the same Meng parts!
I'm currently "playing around" with a second Meng interior set and the Takon KT and since these sets come as cheap as dirt from some chinese sellers on eBay I think that you'd easily enough use the ammo rack,the transmission,the engine and other ancillaries on your build (but NOT the side walls)...just a tip to save on time!
Cheers
Manu
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