You may found this site interesting!

http://www.andreaslarka.net/sturmi.html

By "cut mark" do you mean fold mark?

Get one of those pe bending tools . they come in handy !

Nice work Richard and I look forward to you next additions to the blog.

Hi Richard - nice work!

Ok, here's my guess as to how to make the shape. First, the final part is supposed to look like a 3 dimensional "u"shape. So, the one end of the part, with the single mark running the length of what should be the "legs" of the "u" should remain - don't cut it - as it's likely a fold mark. Next - the two parallel scribe marks (along the longer, center part) should be cut. I think, the two obvious "u" shapes will form the outer walls of the "u", while the longer, piece will be bent to form the inner, flat part of the "u". There might even be more/additional scribe marks on the other side - so, the longer flat piece (in betwetween the two already "u" shaped piece) will be bent to establish the third element of what will become a 3 dimensional "u" shape.

Sorry for so many words! Converting a 3-d concept to words isn't easy!

Regarding the CA - I use BSI Super Gold odorless (turns out I'm allergic to the smell!) Medium gap filling CA (10-25 second dry). I also use a fine tip adapter to the bottle. This combo has served me very well - it's pretty forgiving and doesn't flood the part with glue!! Yes - it's pretty expensive, but each bottle will work for several builds - worth it in my opinion -


Hope this is of some use -

Nick

5. Make a photocopy of your PE phret and print it out on paper. This way, you can test bending the pieces without risking damaging the parts

I would like to make a few suggestions that might help you with your PE experience.

1. Get Wilder's "Dealing with Photo Etch DVD." It is very helpful
2. Get a pair of flat nosed jewelers pliers. I use them for 98% of my bending and they work great every time. Great for holding parts to remove burs as well. https://www.amazon.com/Baby-Wubbers-Flat-Jewelers-Pliers/dp/B003Y07V6O/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508106037&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=wubbers+flat+jawed+pliers
3. A Tamiya Diamond file works great for cleaning up parts https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74066-Diamond-Photo-Etched/dp/B000E7ONQQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1508106089&sr=8-3&keywords=tamiya+file
4. Cut parts off the fret on a piece of hard plastic. I use one of those clear spacer discs that you used to get with those blank CD spools
4. SOLDER parts! Much easier and stronger than using super glue.
5. Make a photocopy of your PE phret and print it out on paper. This way, you can test bending the pieces without risking damaging the parts
6. When you need a bending tool, you need a bending tool. I like this one: http://thesmallshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=10

Richard: I find soldering etch together works much better than ca. If you want to go this route, I find leaving the main piece of etch attached to the fret is a great way to achieve stability. Just make sure you use plenty of flux. Speaking of; I apply flux over the entire assembly and remove it, at the planned joint using a microbrush(you can find these as "micro dental brushes" on Amazon). The difficult part is removing the chrome plating from the Eduard etch. You can do this, with your file. I understand that this is a lot to take in, but well worth the result. Oh, I should mention that I use a torch, rather than a soldering iron. And, I use solder paster, rather than solder wire.