I understand the grey was too dark for your tastes, but it was in reality quite dark, so much so that the brown was difficult to distinguish from the grey. So what you have here doesn't really reflect the reality of how that two-tone camouflage appeared.

(this one's even been tweaked to make it stand out more and it still doesn't very much)

Here you go gentlemen. Hopefully this give you guys a better picture of the colors.

In my limited experience of attempting chipping using fluids, etc I have found it necessary to use a "proper" primer as a base coat, not just another ordinary paint. The primer paint in rattle cans is quite different. I haven't had any problems with primer adhesion.

And I really wish that one of the paint companies would produce a decent metallic dark brown armour plate primer colour. And a metallic goldy-brown manganese steel track primer colour too, for that matter.

I did find that the chipping fluid didn't work as well as I expected. On another forum site I was told that the colour coat and chipping had to be carried out immediately, whereas I waited. Delay doesn't seem to be a factor with hairspray.

Hataka paint is also prone to coming off in large pieces: perhaps a similar composition.

I found that a damp wooden cocktail stick / toothpick gave quite good chips when rubbed gently and randomly over the surface, and the side of the point can be used too. The same can also be said of the Tamiya micro cotton buds, especially the pointed ones. These are a little denser than normal cotton buds, but do go soft once they're too damp.

As for colour correctness, I hear that some of the AK Real Colours British colours are decidedly suspect