Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 04:40 AM UTC
A friend of mine was a GAMA GOAT driver, so I'm going to surprise him with a diorama of one crossing a small creek and climbing the bank on the other side.
I pulled out the boxes today and went through the directions and started cleaning up the add on rein parts.
So far my biggest question is how should I make the back window for the resin roof. Should I use white glue, or something else?
If anyone's interested I took pictures of the sprew that I could post.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 05:10 AM UTC
Use the clear plastic lots of things are packaged in (blister packs). Use CA sparingly to glue it in place.
Oregon, United States
Joined: December 08, 2005
KitMaker: 556 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 07:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Use the clear plastic lots of things are packaged in (blister packs). Use CA sparingly to glue it in place.
The fumes from the CA could cause the clear plastic to glaze over. I've used Future floor wax to glue clear parts in place.
A veteran - whether active duty, retired, or national guard or reserve -- is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 10:13 AM UTC
I figured that blister pack would be the best bet.
I used Future to glue down the glass on an S-3 Viking, and it worked great. Thanks for the help.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 27, 2002
KitMaker: 616 posts
Armorama: 511 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 08:35 PM UTC
Mark...I've used a piece cut from a plastic sandwich bag (the thicker kind, not the cheap kind)and then glued it in place with Elmer's white glue. It's not as ridged as blister pack plastic, and closely approximates the texture of the plastic that was in canvas covers on vehicles.
MAJ, INF, USA (Ret)
AMPS Atlanta
It's not yours till the little Infantry guy stands on it!
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 09:04 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The fumes from the CA could cause the clear plastic to glaze over.
That's why I suggested using CA "sparingly". Fogging usually occurs when glueing aircraft canopies etc. when the interior is sealed and there is no ventilation. If you just dab a tiny bit in each corner it shouldn't fog. There's also "special" clear glue for applications such as that, but I thing the glue is just clear acrylic paste/gel. Micro-Sol also make a product called Crystal Clear which works well, but I think it's also acrylic gel.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 10:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Mark...I've used a piece cut from a plastic sandwich bag (the thicker kind, not the cheap kind)and then glued it in place with Elmer's white glue. It's not as ridged as blister pack plastic, and closely approximates the texture of the plastic that was in canvas covers on vehicles.
I'm going to give this a try.
I also understand the fogging that happens with closed canopies, I found that out the hard way. I was also thinking that you could get away with it because it's not enclosed.
Thanks everyone.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 12:00 AM UTC
Try Testors clear part glue.I appy with a toothpick so just a thin layer.
Tom
Joined: June 22, 2007
KitMaker: 165 posts
Armorama: 97 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 12:08 AM UTC
Unless you have a photo of the Goat in question, I'd leave the driver's top off. I drove one for two years in Colorado and we never put the cab tops on. It was absolutely miserable trying to get in or out of the Goat with the top in place. We usually ran with the bed cover on and the cab open to the elements even in sub-zero weather. The second winter I was there I was even running without a windshield because we couldn't get a replacement thanks to Jimmy Carter's austerity budget for the military.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 04:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Unless you have a photo of the Goat in question, I'd leave the driver's top off. I drove one for two years in Colorado and we never put the cab tops on. It was absolutely miserable trying to get in or out of the Goat with the top in place. We usually ran with the bed cover on and the cab open to the elements even in sub-zero weather. The second winter I was there I was even running without a windshield because we couldn't get a replacement thanks to Jimmy Carter's austerity budget for the military.
Funny you should say this, my buddy told me basically the same thing. He said not only was it impossible for his 6'3" behind to get into it with that darn top. He also said it made it so loud that you couldn't hear yourself think. So no canopy on the Goat.
I got some done today, and am seeing that this is going to be a quick build. The fit is great, and there's almost no flash at all.
The only clunky thing I've come upon so far is the coupling parts for the back of the drive section. I was able to put it together using a cloths pin and a piece of double sided foam tape.
This holds the base and spindle (with the rubber piece inside) so you can set it on the workbench and add the two side pieces.
The undercarriage went together very nicely.
I did put the windshield frame on, glued the front on and the inside on. I glued the inside on so I could paint it and get the decals on without fiddling with it. I'll put the levers on at the end.
That's it for today.
Thanks for looking.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Monday, December 18, 2017 - 07:36 AM UTC
Well now I've been told if I can to put the canopy on. I told him to make up his mind because once it's glued it's done.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 19, 2017 - 07:18 AM UTC
I was able to get some work done today.
I started out putting the driver together. The only way I could think of making this work is to build him in place.
Once the glue dried I mounted him on a toothpick so I could paint him later. Note the steering wheel is glued to his hand. When he's put in the drivers seat the wheel perfectly drops into place.
Then I was able to move forward on the rest of the build. I feel I got a lot done today. This is good because I'm going on my long work week, and I most likely won't be able to get much more done until after the new years.
So far the fit is very nice with this kit. No flash, and minimal mold lines. There are some ejector pin marks, but nothing so far that will be visible when it's on display.
Thanks for looking.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 26, 2017 - 03:15 AM UTC
Well after working way to many hours this Christmas I was able to get a little done on the Goat.
I got the tires cleaned and put together, the trailer finished, and all the stowage cleaned.
Along with that, the paint I ordered came in today, so hopefully tomorrow I can start painting.
Thanks for looking.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 26, 2017 - 08:54 PM UTC
So what do you do when the dogs wake you up at three in the morning?
You go down the basement and give Woodland camo an attempt.
I also painted the seats, then came up and had enough coffee to make it possible to get through the day.
Anyone want a couple of spoiled dogs?
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 05:05 AM UTC
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 08:52 AM UTC
I'd be in favor of any arrangement in which that barrel doesn't roll out and injure poor Joe. I'm a great fan of Legend sets, and have that very set, but why they cast that barrel horizontally is beyond me. On the other hand, the camo net tarp with its four folded flaps is quite well done. It appears in a few other sets as well.
A strong man stands up for himself; A stronger man stands up for others.
Admit nothing. Deny everything. Make counter-accusations.
He is not Khan who calls himself Khan. Afghan proverb
Overijssel, Netherlands
Joined: July 01, 2010
KitMaker: 1,322 posts
Armorama: 1,239 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 01:41 PM UTC
About the barrel:
Having been in a Dutch arti maintenance group at brigade level we never saw these barrels down at our level. I encountered one, empty and rebuild to be used as a field grill in an aministrative group, where it was part of their ‘illegal’ warfare equipment during exercises and field trainings.
Next to the fact that, if these barrels are available at a lower level ( in which gamma goats are used) I doubt that soldiers would place these smelling vessels between their other gear, creating an everxlasting smell of oil or gasoline?
Just interested if the barrel is ‘correct’?
Have a happy and an interesting modelling 2018 for you all
P.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 06:49 PM UTC
In the grand scheme of things, I also feel that if I was putting the barrel in the bed it'd have been all the way towards the back strapped to keep it tight in a corner. But I can see some bonehead (like the people I work with) chucking an empty into the back and not worrying about it.
I'm still up in the air about how to paint it. I want the all green, but like the challenge of the camo.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Overijssel, Netherlands
Joined: July 01, 2010
KitMaker: 1,322 posts
Armorama: 1,239 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 06:58 PM UTC
Quoted Text
In the grand scheme of things, I also feel that if I was putting the barrel in the bed it'd have been all the way towards the back strapped to keep it tight in a corner. But I can see some bonehead (like the people I work with) chucking an empty into the back and not worrying about it.
I'm still up in the air about how to paint it. I want the all green, but like the challenge of the camo.
s
Hi Mark,
Like your build!
I remember those noisy things from the big exercises in the northern parts of Germany in the 80ies!
Why don’t you paint him in your friend’s last version?
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 07:40 PM UTC
Just got off the phone with him, and he said he never painted his camo, it was always green, so green it is!!
Now what Tamiya paint should I use. the directions say TS-28, but I'm using XF bottle paints. Should it be XF58? XF62(Olive Drab) doesn't look right. and I painted the inside bed and cab with xf58 and it seems much to dark, or is that just me? Or is it that it's just so flat that it doesn't look quite right.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
Joined: June 22, 2007
KitMaker: 165 posts
Armorama: 97 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 10:43 PM UTC
If I remember correctly, the green was fairly dark. One thing to remember is that we were always touching up the paint from rattlecans and every batch of that OD Green was a slightly different color. So you can lighten a darker green by giving it a sort of mottled finish with lighter colors in small patches in placs likely to be scratched in use.
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 10:59 PM UTC
For Berlin, where ALL vehicles were plain green, and NOT forest green, you can use Tamiya TS-91 JGSDF green.
A strong man stands up for himself; A stronger man stands up for others.
Admit nothing. Deny everything. Make counter-accusations.
He is not Khan who calls himself Khan. Afghan proverb
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Friday, December 29, 2017 - 04:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
For Berlin, where ALL vehicles were plain green, and NOT forest green, you can use Tamiya TS-91 JGSDF green.
Without ordering from Amazon I don't have any way of getting rattle cans, and with it being this cold I'm going to stick with the airbrush. I think I'm going to go with XF58 Olive Green over a light gray(I have a bottle of mixed from a ship I did a while back that I'd like to use up) I think this will be good.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
New York, United States
Joined: August 25, 2004
KitMaker: 752 posts
Armorama: 378 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 08:46 PM UTC
Looks great Mark.
Did you happen to test fit the Legend canvas cover? Mine was too small and would require some trimming to the windshield. However, based on the posts, perhaps it should be left off regardless of the fit.
Still trying to figure out how to finish mine, I like the green look you're going with.
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 04:57 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Looks great Mark.
Did you happen to test fit the Legend canvas cover? Mine was too small and would require some trimming to the windshield. However, based on the posts, perhaps it should be left off regardless of the fit.
Still trying to figure out how to finish mine, I like the green look you're going with.
Sorry for the delay, work has been crazy the past few days.
I have test fit the canopy and yours is like mine, small by a lot.
My friend said with the canopy off the Gama Goat was crazy loud, with the canopy on it was crazy loud in an echo chamber.
He also said he never saw a camo'd one, and whenever he got board he'd get some paint and touch up where he'd run into stuff. I guess a one handed driving (like the driver in the kit) would have had to be Hercules, they weren't an easy thing to drive.
Anyhow I'm going with the green with his name and rank on the bumper. As for the 55 gallon drum, he laughed and told me a story of one of his friends who did that and the bung wasn't tight. Yep, he had a bed full of diesel that got all over everything.
When you can’t run you crawl, and when you can’t crawl, when you can’t do that, you find someone to carry you.
