I have a VERY low opinion of Vallejo primer - yes it sprays nicely but the adhesion is terrible and you cannot sand it . If all will pardon the crude analogy it is like a condom wrapped around your model . If you get a rough texture for any reason - ( and this can happen to anyone regardless of experience) you can't sand it out - it is like trying to sand a rubber band . It gums up immediately and rolls away from the surface leaving hard edges . The only option you have is softening said edges with a swab soaked in Denatured alcohol or stripping the entire model - absolutely terrible product and I don't know why anyone would want to use it . I tossed mine out when I discovered Stynylrez by Badger which I believe is the same product as Mig One Shot . My experience with Stynylrez has been nothing but wonderful. Sprays beautifully right from the bottle, self leveling, doesn't obscure detail , has excellent adhesion and dries quickly into a hard sandable finish .
I don't always prime my models for the reasons mentioned in the posts above but when doing heavy seam work or mods I prime to disclose areas that may need further attention.
My two cents for what it may be worth .
Richard
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Done with Mig primer
rdt1953
Joined: February 06, 2015
KitMaker: 1,098 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2018 - 12:46 AM UTC
Jcondemichtoy
Joined: September 27, 2017
KitMaker: 87 posts
Armorama: 69 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 - 07:40 AM UTC
Vallejo Primer is a excellent medium. But as all acrylics it dries fast and tip dries out, specially on hot dry weather.
We hardly take atmosphere into account, but I started noticing terrible experiences with Ammo, AK and some Vallejo on dry days for the last couple years.
That being said (meaning you should have easier results in humid days with acrylics) you must use airbrush flow improvers (Paint retarders, similars), example, Vallejo Flow Improver. VMS makes one amazing paint retarder that I also use on the airbrush, and they just released a airbrush version, so better yet.
So a example of my mix, primer wise :
12 Drops of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner
04 Drops of Vallejo Flow Improver
02 Drops of VMS Paint Retarder
12 Drops of Vallejo Primer
Perfect every time. I use Vallejo's flow improver on any acrylic paint, from Polly S to Scale 75. They all flow better with it. No issues, even in hot dry days.
Mission Models behave differently, they don't mix well with the flow and they choke on dry days, almost unpaintable.
Well, If I can help further, let me know.
We hardly take atmosphere into account, but I started noticing terrible experiences with Ammo, AK and some Vallejo on dry days for the last couple years.
That being said (meaning you should have easier results in humid days with acrylics) you must use airbrush flow improvers (Paint retarders, similars), example, Vallejo Flow Improver. VMS makes one amazing paint retarder that I also use on the airbrush, and they just released a airbrush version, so better yet.
So a example of my mix, primer wise :
12 Drops of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner
04 Drops of Vallejo Flow Improver
02 Drops of VMS Paint Retarder
12 Drops of Vallejo Primer
Perfect every time. I use Vallejo's flow improver on any acrylic paint, from Polly S to Scale 75. They all flow better with it. No issues, even in hot dry days.
Mission Models behave differently, they don't mix well with the flow and they choke on dry days, almost unpaintable.
Well, If I can help further, let me know.
drabslab
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
Armorama: 190 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2018 - 02:35 PM UTC
Quoted Text
We hardly take atmosphere into account, but I started noticing terrible experiences with Ammo, AK and some Vallejo on dry days for the last couple years.
That being said (meaning you should have easier results in humid days with acrylics) you must use airbrush flow improvers (Paint retarders, similars), example, Vallejo Flow Improver. VMS makes one amazing paint retarder that I also use on the airbrush, and they just released a airbrush version, so better yet.
So a example of my mix, primer wise :
12 Drops of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner
04 Drops of Vallejo Flow Improver
02 Drops of VMS Paint Retarder
12 Drops of Vallejo Primer
Perfect every time. I use Vallejo's flow improver on any acrylic paint, from Polly S to Scale 75. They all flow better with it. No issues, even in hot dry days.
Mission Models behave differently, they don't mix well with the flow and they choke on dry days, almost unpaintable.
Well, If I can help further, let me know.
Influenced by the Internet hype, I tried Vallejo primer ... it was a disaster, it just peels of when sanding.
Then I searched the internet and found many tips on how to persuade that primer to stick to a model...
My simple questions are:
Why would I go through all those loopholes to make some primer or paint stick to a model with so many primers/paints available that do not require olympic level skills?
Why would I risk ruining a model after spending money and countless hours to build it?
Although I have respect for the perseverance of the modellers willing to experiment with thinners, retarders, flow improvers... I consider that preparing a primer/ paint to be usable is the job of the manufacturer, not mine.
I am back at using Tamiya primer, no fuss, no problems
d6mst0
#453
Joined: August 28, 2016
KitMaker: 1,925 posts
Armorama: 601 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2018 - 04:54 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Here's another option; don't prime. I have never primed a model and never had to. I don't see the point in adding another layer of paint to cover up details.
The first coat of paint you put down is called the primer, weather you are painting house, a wall, model, etc.. The issue is what type of paint are you going to use for the first coat. That is up to and what works for you.
sdk10159
Joined: December 08, 2005
KitMaker: 556 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2018 - 05:06 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Here's another option; don't prime. I have never primed a model and never had to. I don't see the point in adding another layer of paint to cover up details.
Ditto
Sleepwalker71
Joined: August 30, 2012
KitMaker: 265 posts
Armorama: 186 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2018 - 05:31 PM UTC
My feeling is that primer should be a solid base for the further painting. Is an acrylic able to provide this? I have some doubts about it. Personally, I'm using Mr Surfacer as a primer, and I'm just amazed how it sinks into a plastic - I guess some chemical reaction occurs there. Doesn't matter if applied directly from a rattle can or by airbrush.
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2018 - 06:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
My feeling is that primer should be a solid base for the further painting. Is an acrylic able to provide this? I have some doubts about it. Personally, I'm using Mr Surfacer as a primer, and I'm just amazed how it sinks into a plastic - I guess some chemical reaction occurs there. Doesn't matter if applied directly from a rattle can or by airbrush.
Yep Mr Surfacer 1200 in can is damn good.
Venko555
Joined: December 07, 2013
KitMaker: 908 posts
Armorama: 698 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2018 - 06:17 PM UTC
I'm using Finishing Surfacer 1500 lately, fantastic stuff, bites very good to resin, metal etc. also 
drabslab
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
Armorama: 190 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2018 - 08:22 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextHere's another option; don't prime. I have never primed a model and never had to. I don't see the point in adding another layer of paint to cover up details.
Ditto
For a long time, I did not prime any model. the consequence, certainly with pale colors was that the color differences between plastic, putty, overspray of inside colors ... showed through the top coat unless when putting a thicker topcoat.
In addition, I usually discovered a few surface shortcomings after paintin ... leading to more than ahelthy number of correcions on an otherwise finished model.
Priming solves all that and I use an easy primer, not a product that does not qualify as being one
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Friday, March 23, 2018 - 08:59 PM UTC
You could have just received a bad bottle of primer.
metooshelah
#011
Joined: February 06, 2009
KitMaker: 1,507 posts
Armorama: 1,304 posts
Posted: Friday, March 30, 2018 - 12:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Vallejo Primer is a excellent medium. But as all acrylics it dries fast and tip dries out, specially on hot dry weather.
We hardly take atmosphere into account, but I started noticing terrible experiences with Ammo, AK and some Vallejo on dry days for the last couple years.
That being said (meaning you should have easier results in humid days with acrylics) you must use airbrush flow improvers (Paint retarders, similars), example, Vallejo Flow Improver. VMS makes one amazing paint retarder that I also use on the airbrush, and they just released a airbrush version, so better yet.
So a example of my mix, primer wise :
12 Drops of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner
04 Drops of Vallejo Flow Improver
02 Drops of VMS Paint Retarder
12 Drops of Vallejo Primer
Perfect every time. I use Vallejo's flow improver on any acrylic paint, from Polly S to Scale 75. They all flow better with it. No issues, even in hot dry days.
Mission Models behave differently, they don't mix well with the flow and they choke on dry days, almost unpaintable.
Well, If I can help further, let me know.
I'm sorry, but this is just too much effort to get a sub-par product to "play along". Tamiya primer is far superior to Vallejo, and so is Alclad's and the just need few drops of thinner and you are set.
Vicious
Joined: September 04, 2015
KitMaker: 1,517 posts
Armorama: 1,109 posts
Posted: Friday, March 30, 2018 - 03:35 AM UTC
I do not understand all these alchemies to run a product that should work already at the start, however after all these play around is still not sandable.
I stay with my 2 beloved primers, Tamiya in a can and with the AB Badger Stynylrez, no thinner, no stink, very fogiven, sandable and strong without having to play the "little chemist"
I stay with my 2 beloved primers, Tamiya in a can and with the AB Badger Stynylrez, no thinner, no stink, very fogiven, sandable and strong without having to play the "little chemist"
Scarred
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
Armorama: 1,186 posts
Posted: Friday, March 30, 2018 - 04:43 AM UTC
The only problem I've had with vallejo primer was this past winter when the humidity dropped because I was heating the house with wood and it dried out the air. I just put a pot of water on the wood stove brought the humidity back up and shot straight out of the bottle with just a few drops of thinner. I'm ordering some Stynylrez this weekend to see how well that works.
mudcake
Joined: July 06, 2016
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 47 posts
Posted: Friday, March 30, 2018 - 05:15 AM UTC
For a long time, I did not prime any model. the consequence, certainly with pale colors was that the color differences between plastic, putty, overspray of inside colors ... showed through the top coat unless when putting a thicker topcoat.
In addition, I usually discovered a few surface shortcomings after paintin ... leading to more than ahelthy number of correcions on an otherwise finished model.
Priming solves all that and I use an easy primer, not a product that does not qualify as being one[/quote]
Ditto!
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Friday, March 30, 2018 - 03:04 PM UTC
Alclad II is my solvent primer of choice, excepting the few bottles of Floquil I have stashed, away. I don't add anything to it. About three coats and I have an even, smooth finish. I have a few primers left to try(non-rattle can). AFA that goes, Color Place white. The stuff is impervious and applies well. I stripped a model, using oven cleaner. The Color Place wouldn't budge. Tried Simple Green, no result. Sands well.
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