Fellow Members,

I need your help.

I understand the idea of a wash...... A very thin mixture of paint and solvent. It has to be applied with a flat brush, not the whole model in one, but smaller pieces of the model at a time. Don't wipe, just gently tap of excess fluids....YEAH RIGHT !!!. Ok the theory is clear, but how to tap of the excess paint ? What cloth suits this action best.

I've been trying a whole afternoon, and all I end up with is a camouflage pattern of wash on my practice model.

Is there someone who can give me a step-by-step sort of thing ?

I used a wash of acrylic paint and alchohol on an old model, which was painted with an enamel. Like I said, the result is a camo pattern of original paint and wash. When I tap the lower parts (lines on the model) the paint comes off as fast as I put it on....

Need lessons here.....SHOOT !!

Danny ' the Eagle '

It is so simple...

Make a residu of 90% terpentine and 10% paint.
Now make your model wet with clean terpentine then add the wash mixture.
All the wash that you put on to many you can easily remove that with a simple piece
of kitchen paper.
Just let the remains suck into the kitchen paper.
Before you apply the next layer of wash let it dry at least 12 hours
That all...
Note : Remove the wash at all places where your wheel has to be attached.
The wash destroys the axes and made them soft so the wheels can break off quite easy
especially on wheels where tracks are involved because off the tension of the vinyl tracks.

And now in Dutch :

Het is zo simpel.

Wash

Een wash zorgt ervoor dat het model diepte en een verweerd/verouderd uiterlijk krijgt, omdat de basiskleur gebroken wordt.
De wash is samengesteld uit olieverf, kleur zwart en Burned Sienna en verdund met minimaal 95% terpentine.
Dit mengsel brengt je met een breed plat penseel op het model aan, werkend vanaf de boven kant van je model. Je doet dit in kleine oppervlakte per keer, dus b.v. eerst de bovenkant van de toren en dan de zijkant enz. Het teveel aan wash dept je af met een tissue of een stofvrije doek, let op nooit vegen!!! Er blijft dan een lichte film van wash achter op je model, laat het model dan weer minimaal 12 uur drogen.
Nog even een paar waarschuwingen.
Haal bij de assen de wash goed weg. Als er resten van terpentine bij de gelijmde assen achterblijft, vreet dit de assen kapot met als gevolg afgebroken wielen.
Vooral bij de span- en aandrijfwielen van tanks met vinyl tracks staat er veel druk op de assen en deze zullen dus gemakkelijker afbreken, haal daarom de wash hier goed weg.
Dan is er ook geen gevaar voor een beschadigd model.

Als je dit hanteerd dan kan het eigenlijk niet fout gaan !!!


Nog even ditte je kunt inplaats van de eerder genoemde olieverf ook gewoon Humbroll verf nemen.

succes

good luck

Eric

Danny ' the Eagle '

It is so simple...

Make a residu of 90% terpentine and 10% paint.
Now make your model wet with clean terpentine then add the wash mixture.
All the wash that you put on to many you can easily remove that with a simple piece
of kitchen paper.
Just let the remains suck into the kitchen paper.
Before you apply the next layer of wash let it dry at least 12 hours
That all...
Note : Remove the wash at all places where your wheel has to be attached.
The wash destroys the axes and made them soft so the wheels can break off quite easy
especially on wheels where tracks are involved because off the tension of the vinyl tracks.

And now in Dutch :

Het is zo simpel.

Wash

Een wash zorgt ervoor dat het model diepte en een verweerd/verouderd uiterlijk krijgt, omdat de basiskleur gebroken wordt.
De wash is samengesteld uit olieverf, kleur zwart en Burned Sienna en verdund met minimaal 95% terpentine.
Dit mengsel brengt je met een breed plat penseel op het model aan, werkend vanaf de boven kant van je model. Je doet dit in kleine oppervlakte per keer, dus b.v. eerst de bovenkant van de toren en dan de zijkant enz. Het teveel aan wash dept je af met een tissue of een stofvrije doek, let op nooit vegen!!! Er blijft dan een lichte film van wash achter op je model, laat het model dan weer minimaal 12 uur drogen.
Nog even een paar waarschuwingen.
Haal bij de assen de wash goed weg. Als er resten van terpentine bij de gelijmde assen achterblijft, vreet dit de assen kapot met als gevolg afgebroken wielen.
Vooral bij de span- en aandrijfwielen van tanks met vinyl tracks staat er veel druk op de assen en deze zullen dus gemakkelijker afbreken, haal daarom de wash hier goed weg.
Dan is er ook geen gevaar voor een beschadigd model.

Als je dit hanteerd dan kan het eigenlijk niet fout gaan !!!


Nog even ditte je kunt inplaats van de eerder genoemde olieverf ook gewoon Humbroll verf nemen.

succes

good luck

Eric

Danny,

Nog even dit :

Details benadrukken

Dit doet je door een zwarte wash aan te brengen rond verhoogde details en in de graveerlijnen.
Deze wash is dikker dan de basiswash, ongeveer 20% zwarte olieverf en 80% terpentine.
Begin het model te bevochtigen met schone terpentine, hierdoor vloeit de wash beter langs en in de details zonder storende vlekken achter te laten.
Neem een fijn puntig penseel, b.v. nr. 1 doop deze in de wash en tip de zijkant van verhoogde details aan, je zult zien dat de wash rond de onderdelen en in de lijnen zal uitvloeien.

Eric

( je moet dit zelf maar even in het Engels vertalen....ben al druk genoeg )

Eric

I just apply the wash into lines and around detail with a fine brush. The tinted thinner follows the detail naturally. I don't know if this is the "right" way to do it, but I like the effect it gives.

Nic

Danny,

Try using a wash of oils thinned with white spirits (tirpinoid). This will probably work better than the acrylics.

The acrylics in alcohol will be much more like a very dilute paint and stick to the surface of the model as soon a that alcohol begins to evaporate.

The oil paints, on the other hand, will stay workable and can be easily removed with a q-tip dipped in plain white spirits. Any excess wash can be taken off with a soft cloth while still wet.

You can purchase a real nice set of oils for under $20. I have a nice set I got for about $15 that has small tubes of 12 different colors. By mixing you can get any shade you can think of.

You may want to buy larger tubes of the most frequently used colors (for me; white, black, burnt umber, raw sienna). Try not to get the cheapest brand (the pigment may be very coarse with these) but you don't need top of the line either. A large tube might cost $4 or $5 at a good art supply.

There are some other excellent threads here on the Armorama Forums and lots of Internet articles about using washes as well.

Steve

Thx Guys,

Really helped a lot. I'll try again tomorrow, but the tips seem quite helpful.

I'll try again with the oil paints his time. I have a high quality set of oil paints that are just waiting to be opened, so let's just try.... It's an old model so what the heck. I'm the one that's always yelling et people to be patient and practice, practice and ....practice. So lets just do it myself thistime.

Those who read this, please find my post "AAAAAARRRRRRGGGGG" You could help me here too. THX!

I know this article on washes by Bernard Cher has helped many modelers,
including myself when I got back into the hobby.
Remember as simple as it may come to some, a good
wash and continued consistency take's practice, practice, practice.
It is something to get use to & become familar with like any other
modeling technique, and you will achieve these results through experience.
.....I also agree with Steve - oil and enamel solvent based washes have
better properties for capillery action & flow. Where as an acrylic wash is more
inclined to just " puddle " as leave smudggy results on your finish.
HERE'S THE ARTICLE - ALL THE BEST TO YOU !
- ralph
http://www.geocities.com/themodelworkshop/documents/washes.htm

Eagle,
It also helps a lot if the model is gloss coated first. The oils will flow easier than on a flat coated model. I usually build, paint, gloss, decal, wash, flat coat, then lay in details like paint chips, fuel stains etc... The gloss coat really helps the wash process though. And you are correct, just touch the brush to a particular panel line or what have you and let capillary action do the rest. And yes...practice, practice, practice..... lol.. Have fun though and dont put your model through any un-needed flight trials!! "Q"

Yes, I do my wash on a glossy surface with enamels. However, if you are more comfortable with water-based paints, adding a tiny amount of soap to the wash will stop it from puddling as much.

Nic

Hhmmm washes are a very simple yet always questioned technique

my methods are most common and easy

i use tamiya arcrilic paints, put them on first, untill you happy with the paint cotes.
Put a clear gloss finish over the lot, let dry for 24 hours, and then mix a wash using oil paints and oil paint cleaneror any other suitable product. I use one that has no odour, drys matt (which is perfect for war machines) and drys rather slowly. So you can go back and fix the wash that builds up in areas to much, its simple get a dry brush and a cloth, wipeing and re-brushing the area so that the excess paint is even like the rest of the model.

And for areas such as panel lines, and light washing only designed to show detail....mix the wash thinner, and apply lightly, remember its better to put several thin coates of wash on instead of one think one.

Cheers, and good luck

Many application's of techniques are a matter of personal perference;
..................what works for one may not work for another.
I find that a wash is better applied over a matte surface as the pigment doesn't break up as much and has good coverage and excellent capillery action over/around raised detail, seams, panel lines, etc.

- ralph

wow really? i've done both and with a gloss surface i've found the wash is much more even and easier to control...

For me, gloss or matte finish doesn't seem to matter as much as what the wash consists of. I took the advice offered in an earlier thread on this subject and got some quality oils (Windsor and Newton) and thinned them with turpinol 10% oil, 90% thinner. The results were spectacular ! Good capillary action and excellent control.

Hi Benno !
Like I said whatever work's for you and your comforatable with, is what
you go with.
- ralph

Ya know, I find the latter part of this thread funny, and interesting. Because, when I first started out really trying to, what I will call 'accurize' my models, meaning washes, pastels, etc. I tried like heck to get some help from other modelers about exactly how do go about it, i.e., 'show-me'. But you know what, of the few people back then who I coerced into taking a couple of seconds of their time to advise me.....none of them told me about gloss coating the model to enduce a proper flow of the wash liquid. Nor did they tell me about wiping it off! Therefore most of my early kits turned out to look like they were painted camoflage in a B & W movie!!

Anyway, I finally ferreted out what I have found is a pretty good system (we're talking military related subject matter here).

' Tread's 'Unofficial Kit Painting Method' #:-)

A) I first paint the kit with an enamel primer. A GOOD quality primer, as opposed to some 'corner-cutter's' I've heard lately. Since I'm not in any rush at this point I give it the proper amount of time to dry (3 to 4 days minimum).

B) After the primer is dry I then (for the most part) use acrylics (Tamiya colours whenever I can, Floquil otherwise. I tend to stay away from Testor's MM). These I will use for the bulk of my overall painting (base/colour/mist/cloud/dusting/etc coats)

C) When I am satisfied with the overall result I spray a coat of acrylic Gloss (not 'Future' floor wax. I've posted my personal views on this in another thread so I won't belabour the point here) over the entire model. Not only does this protect what I have already painted, but provides an excellent surface on which I can perform my washes. At this point I immediately place the kit inside one of those small clear storage boxes you can get from your local Target store for about a buck. This protects the model from dust and foriegn particles settling into the gloss top coat (and believe me, this happens). I allow this to dry an additional 3 to 4 days.

D) Now I will begin applying my initial wash (won't go into the colour mix here because it varies from kit to kit). I use oils for my washes because they are easy to work with, easy to blend, easy to remove (or move), and allow me the time to 'fine tune' the overall result. I use a variety of things to aid in the 'manipulation' of my wash, a brush, a rag, a Q-tip, just depends upon the surface being washed. Another important point (IMHO) is that I can essentially work on almost the entire model surface as opposed to working in small 'patches', as when I used to use acrylics for the wash.
Depending upon the sheer amount of 'pin' washing I intend to do I will either incorporate that part of the process right then, or wait till it's dry and apply the pin wash as a second coat.

E) Washing is done, I then apply an over all coat of spray flat (again, good quality) This further serves to protect the previous wash and prepare the model for drybrushing / pastels / carbon / chipping / etc. I again immediately put the kit into the clear storage box as previously mentioned to protect it from dust. Allow to dry.

F) Drybrushing...................wait a minute, this thread is about washing right?

O.K., nuff said. Hope it helps somebody, or instigates someone to tell me how bloody wrong I am! #:-)

Tread.

BTW, Screamingeagle. You apply your washes over a matte surface? Wow. I'm impressed. More power to you!

I dont use any gloss stuff either when I apply my washes, seems like it just will make the project take longer and another hassel that I dont need
I paint the model in acrylics, then let it dry a few minutes, then go ahead and apply the washes. after this is done, weather it and then spray some dull coat on and voila!

Anders,

This is a great method. If you look in Tony Greenland's Panzer Modeling, you will see something similar (when he uses a wash at all).

I have had good results using the acrylics and then (within an hour) using a tirpinoid wash. I do like to wait a day or two between steps if I can, but using the dissimilar materials allows for the quick turnaround.

I prefer the wash on a matt finish on armor. On aircraft, that's another story...

Steve

I hear ya, Anders, none of that waiting days for the paint to cure for me, though I do use a lacquer gloss coat that dries in minutes. I guess I'll keep doing it the quick way until I wreck a model

Nic

I guess I'm from the 'old school'..........I'm not in a race.
Besides, it gives me time to confirm my research and think the project through some more.

Tread.

Not in a race either. I just go on what works and what the experts have written!

Research? Hell, I just glue 'em together and slap some paint on 'em. Got a real nice purple sherman I just finished. Even managed to put some flames on the side! Hey, maybe I am in a race!

How's that for new school!

Steve

Whatcha got under the hood sniper?

Hi Tread - Sound's like my kinda style ! I reserach just about everything.
Being I have such a passion for military history, especially W.W.II - it just seems
second nature to do research and it is my favorite part of modeling.
I also find as personal choice, that I like getting things accurate ....
............."the way they were ".
It's just of my own way of honoring those who served & made the "Supreme Sacrifice ".
That's part of my approach and always has been.
ANYHOW: Yes, I prefer a matte surface when applying washes. On the contrary, I find it allows better control then a gloss finish ..... and, .........well .......... you read my reply .
I also don't even use clear protective coats - and I apply solvent based washes directly
over enamel finishes. I do apply testors dullcote, but as the very last step of my model
project. This is to just seal it and give it an overall matte finish.
And glosscotes for applying decals.
I just don't believe protective clears are necessary and just add to surface build up - taking away from raised detail.
Along's the wash procedure is done correctly & with patience ( I'm also in no hurry - LOL ) there is no harm or any paint lift done to the undercoat or enamel finish.
" Whatever works " - Right ?
TAKE CARE TREAD !
- ralph

Ralph, I am seriously impressed. Both by your ability to master the 'matte' thing, and by your apparent 'deal with the devil' regarding solvent based washes over enamels! Next you'll tell me you only wait 10 seconds for the enamels to dry! :-)
Just kiddin'.

As to your point about 'build-up'. I also agree. That is one of the reasons I don't use 'Future' floor wax for my overcoats. And when I do clear coat, it is more like a thick 'tack' coat, so just thick enough to create a slight 'sheen'. So your point about affecting surface detail is both understood and embraced by me.


Lastly, your mention of your passion for military history, and your enjoyment of the research side of it. This is exactly how I feel about the subject. In fact, I don't know of a time I haven't been researching one of my model builds and haven't learned something completely new and exciting from one of the texts! I have also expanded on this opinion in another thread regarding the way I view my modeling. I believe it was in 'Zen and the art of...." or some such.


Anyway, glad to have you in the same 'school'............BTW, how's your summer vacation going?

Tread.

P.S. No smoking in the Boy's Room!

Perhaps you misunderstood me, Tread. I'm certainly in no race and, as a history major in university, I love to do research on these things. What I did mean was that I sometimes get a little impatient while I'm building the model and can't help but paint two colours in one day sometimes. Plus, I have to do my airbrushing outside, so I like to take advantage of calm weather. What I am trying to do now is work on a few models at the same time so while I wait for one to dry and cure, I can work on another. I guess I just have too much fun modeling, if that's possible.

Nic