Hank-
All good info, thanks. I'll stick with the Takom hull to do the M60, seems like moving the first idler and deleting the second shock would be easier. I do have the Dragon M60 in the stash, using it for the turret and small parts only.

Yes it is, just checked it by comparing it with the AFV Club and Tamiya kits.

How pathetic!!!

First of all, I wouldn't suggest using a model as a reference for another model, although that seems to be a popular suggestion on another site. In looking at my walkarounds (which were sent to AFV Club, along with references from many other sources, I'm sure) here's what the spacing look like after making measurements from several photos: If you draw a line from the center of the hub on the idler to the same location on the front road wheel, a return roller will just fit in that space with its hub on that line, touching both the idler and the main wheel. That said, these things do move forward and back, do they not?
Now the location of the actual idler mount location on the hull, that's a different story. I've got no measurement for that.

This work is a waste of time. The wheel and track cover everything

Actually there is a possibillity that Dragon put the idler mount so far back so as they could keep the M48 DS tracks. If you put the idler in the correct position then you might need new tracks.

As far as comparing a model to another one, AFV Club kit is far superior to the Dragon one in every aspect, so why not compare them and correct some of the Dragon kit mistakes based on the AFV Club kit?

And it is not a waste of time, because the idler position affects the shape of the track and the clearance of the track from the fenders. If the dler is too back then the hull point might show too.

Actually there is a possibillity that Dragon put the idler mount so far back so as they could keep the M48 DS tracks. If you put the idler in the correct position then you might need new tracks.

And it is not a waste of time, because the idler position affects the shape of the track and the clearance of the track from the fenders. If the idler is too back then the hull point might show too.

If the idler is all the way back the point of the hull does show from directly to the side, but that position is pretty rare unless you're running short tracked or without an idler. (Don't laugh, I did see it) The clearance in the front of the tracks differs between an M60 and an M60A1 because of the position of the first return roller. I saw that first hand too as I hot-seated at least one M60A3 that was originally a slick M60 and the cutting and movement marks were visible on the hull.

We know the Dragon M60 hull is based on an M48 hull whereas the AFV-club is all new so the differences are noticeable and at the very, very least a starting point for any needed work.

ya I see what you mean
next week I will be at Latrun and will look at real M60M
if you want pictures please tell me
i have the dragon kit and want to build it

I would love to see some photos of the Magach 7C in Latrun though.

The Dragon kit is easir to be built into a Magach 6R than a 6M. Check the first page of this thread for the 6M basket required but not supplied in the Dragon kit.

But I want to build a steel tracked M60 in IDF colours? Failing this, if I need to build a 6G what AM tracks do I need?

Quoted Text

---

But I want to build a steel tracked M60 in IDF colours? Failing this, if I need to build a 6G what AM tracks do I need?

---

Merkava tracked Magach variants: 6M, 6B Gal, 6B Gal Batash, 7A, 7C.

Looks like I need to make that basket then??

Here's what I'm talking about.. the image on the side of the dragon box. If the kit builds like this, it's not good..



I found this pic of the real thing, kinda side on for comparison.



Pretty big difference eh, however, I have no doubt theres gonna be a positional issue with the main wheels also?