Started the review build of the Panda Hobby Husky Mk.III w/GPR for the sight.

Started with Step 1 and it is straight forward with no issues.The only thing I did was leave off PE5 off till I attach the top of the main body, A24. Also, a small note, decide if you want to use part C37, the DUKE antenna. You can change it out for a regular SINCGAR radio antenna or nothing at all.







Went ahead and jumped to step 5 to work on the front axle and frame. I don't know what Panda used as reference for the steering gear box, so I used AFV Club and reference pictures to scratch build new steering gear boxes. I also added missing nuts and bolts and the brake lines. Hoses that will go to the gear box will be added after the box is attached. I also scratched the steering arm that will be attached to the steering box by a rod. The steering knuckles are movable, but the tie rod is not, so I just carefully cut the tie rod off connection points and re-positioned the knuckles.



















Next update will be the finished front and starting of the rear unit.

Pete, I'll be watching this with interest. I saw a couple of these the other day on MQ-9 feed from Fort Irwin. They were green and didn't seem to have any of the radar fitted. They were parked with a few Buffalo that had full bar armor packages. That's the first time I've seen live feed of vehicles stateside with the bar armor. I'm curious as to why you chose the Panda Husky and not the AFV Club offering? I should have read the first paragraph in it you say it's for the site. Keep up the great work.

Regards,

Eric

Yes Eric, it is a sample for Armorama.
Having built the first Panda Models offering of this vehicle, I definitely would have chosen the AFV Club kit. I knew this kit was going to need a lot of work and that's why I like choosing these types of samples.

Resin wheels with Panda Hobby type of tires would be nice.

Completed the front axle and frame without the Radar part. I need to scratch a "ribbon cable" for the Radar before I attach it.

Please forgive me if the underside is not 100% accurate. There is not to much as far as the underside of the Mk.III on the web. Brent Sauer has a nice walk around of the Mk.I on Prime Portal that I used on some very small bits. Youtube also provided some useful footage of the Radar.



















Next update will be the rear axle and frame.

Well, according to these pictures, I think I got it pretty close. Just need to "zip tie" the cables/hoses.





The above pictures are part of Robert Skipper's (aka 18Bravo) excellent walk around. Speaking of walk arounds, if your looking for them for MRAP's, Bradley's, Abrams and who knows what else he has, Roberts are 2nd to none. For $15.00 you get excellent quality photo's via email. Plus, he will update you for free if and when he gets new photo's.

You are killing it man.

Turned my attention to the rear axle and frame unit.
After receiving Robert Skipper's(18Bravo) awesome walk around photos, it turns out that Panda Models missed some very prominent pasts. Two cross beams are missing, one going straight across and one going at a diagonal. Also missing is the steering gear box and tie rod and of course all the hoses.

Before receiving Robert's walk around pictures, I had already pretty much have the whole axle frame completely built and waiting for hoses.

Upon examining pictures, I found out that the shocks are positioned wrong. Instead of being located right above the axle per the instructions, they need to be moved more towards the back. I haven't re-glued the shocks back on in these pictures, but will show that in the next update.

The cross beam that is missing is the one that mounts the steering gear box. This was done with thin plastic stock. The tie rod will be added when I replace the shocks. On the real vehicle, the tie rod is locked in place and again, I will point that out in the next update.

The brakes lines run from the wheels to under the rear most cross member before it goes into the cab area. The four hoses connect to brass fittings making them come out to just two hoses.

There are only four hoses/cables connected to the bumper. Two are for the air brakes for towing trailers. One is for the trailer lights connector and the other is for the rear lights of the Husky.











On a vehicle that doesn't mount the Ground Penetrating Radar(GPR), the vehicle hoses run right under the cross members held in place by cable holders/brackets. On the is vehicle, the vehicle hoses run under the whole frame and only the hoses connected to the bumper is held by a cable/hose bracket/holder. Everything else is "zip tied." Reason for this is because the box for the GPR and some other type of cover/box is mounted to the top of the frame. And all the cables to the GPR run directly under the top frame. All this GPR stuff that is supposed to go on the back of the vehicle is missing from the kit and needs to be scratched built. This will be shown in the next update or the one after.

Still a lot of work to do on this rear frame and after seeing the real thing in Robert's walk around photo's, I think I might go back and re-work the front frame.

Again, if you guys are looking for awesome walk around's of certain modern US vehicles, contact Robert Skipper (aka 18Bravo.)

Man Pete your doing an amazing job on the Husky !! Adding all those hoses and the steering components really improve the build

Still crunching away at the rear axle/frame. Adding more missing parts and tying up cables and hoses.

Some how I lost part C42. This is where the safety chains attach to when something is being towed. I replaced it with some plastic stock.



Finished tie rod and steering box:









"Zipped tied" cables and hoses:



Frame for cover that you see on the back of the Husky located right above the control box for the GPR:







Next update should be the completed rear. Only need to add the GPR control box and rims.

Pete, you are truly cooking on this build. Nice scratchbuilding skills!

Regards,

Eric

Well, I am calling the rear end finished and ready for paint. If it wasn't for Robert Skippers walk around photo's, I don't think I would have gone to much trouble to add all the missing hoses and stuff.

Once both the front and main body is finished and all is put together, I will run the cables from the GPR to the box attached to the rear.











I am still debating if I want to go back and re-do the front end. In the mean time, the drivers compartment is next. The drivers compartment in both the AFV Club and the Panda Hobby kit are simplified according to pictures, more so the Panda Hobby kit. If you close up the drivers compartment, then their is no need to worry about it. But with such a big opening when you leave the hatch open, a lot of stuff that is missing can be seen. So stay tuned folks!

Big update today, the interior! A lot of work was done here adding missing stuff and correcting a couple of things.

First I started with removing the left and right side of the seat of part A5. This is to accommodate the stuff that is missing behind the seat.





Next was to fix the rim around the hatch. In reference photos, the rim is higher than what the kit shows. I removed the hing detail on the left and right side of the hatch. This will be added back later when I attach the hatch doors. I used 1mm x 1mm square plastic for this and it added the right amount of height.







Next was to fix the AC unit. It is to short, so I extended it by 10.5mm. I also added the access cover and bolt heads. The grab handles and AC piping was added after.











Now for some more missing items. To the right of the drivers seat seems to be AC conduits. I used laminated plastic card and round tubing to simulate this. Behind the seat looks to be like the air reservoirs for the tire inflation system.Round tubing, lead wire, and slice hex rod was used to detail out the canister. To the left of the drivers seat are some cables, hoses, and the piping for the canisters. Again, plastic rod and lead wire was used for this.









****NOTE: Installing the brake and gas pedal is missing from the instructions. Those are parts C41 and B34. According the the reference pictures, the gas pedal is right next to the brake pedal. there are two connections points located on the floor of the drivers tub, disregard those.****

Also at this time, I added missing cables to the left and right side of the drivers compartment.





Right under the AC unit is a interior light unit and the control box for the tire inflation system. I had a spare light unit from an Academy M113 kit.





There are some components missing around the steering wheel/shaft. Some puch buttons and toggles are missing from the front of the instrument cluster. To the left of the steering shaft is missing the connection box for the halon system. Cables where added with lead wire.

****NOTE: Also missing from the instructions is the installation of the instrument cluster that is located on the right front corner of the interior. This is part A18.****





Last was the missing Halon bottle. I used a spare fire extinguisher bottle that I had in my spares box.



And now the finished and painted interior.

****NOTE: There is no decal provided for the "DO NOT STEP" located on top of the AC unit. I used Woodland Scenics red dry transfer letters for this. Also, there is no decal call out location for the instrument clusters. I used decal 19, 28 and 23 for the instruments next to the drive shaft and decals 24, 25, 26, 27, and 29 for part A18.





















next update will be the exterior of the main cab. Stay tuned.