OK, I have a confession to make.
I had the exact same difficulties in building this gun. I put the whole thing together and only then realized the problem.
So, I bought a second kit, broke off the offending wheel set already installed on the gun and built a totally new one from the parts in the new kit.
That means I now have another complete 155mm gun, minus the automotive parts that someone is welcome to, for free if they want it.
I will point out that the wheel set for this gun was intended to be completely removable so the gun plus trails could be semipermanently emplaced in a balustrade.
Any takers? I will ship anywhere in the continental US (further if given a little $$$ help.)
First come, first served!
I hate to see plastic go to waste.
THE GUN HAS NOW BEEN CLAIMED.
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M-59 155 mm LONG TOM - something went wrong
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 07:00 AM UTC
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 07:04 AM UTC
Great find HP. I did not know the cables were intended to be disconnected!
RobinNilsson
TOS Moderator
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 07:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Great find HP. I did not know the cables were intended to be disconnected!
Cables are used to prevent the wheels / the bogie from flapping around all over the place when the gun fires?
/ Robin
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 07:29 AM UTC
So in travel mode the cables are not even connected just as Robin said.
I wonder what the best way to model this would be? Just to bend them around and glue them to the middle of the torque rod???
I wonder what the best way to model this would be? Just to bend them around and glue them to the middle of the torque rod???
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 07:31 AM UTC
p.s. Excellent discussion here guys!
RobinNilsson
TOS ModeratorJoined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
Armorama: 5,562 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 08:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
So in travel mode the cables are not even connected just as Robin said.
I wonder what the best way to model this would be? Just to bend them around and glue them to the middle of the torque rod???
or add the little hooks (copper wire flattened by hammering)
and hang the cables on the hooks?
The gun is lowered into firing position by raising the bogies using the bogie lft screw (I wonder how that screw lifts the bogies). When the bogies are in the lifted position the cables are connected (to hold the wheels up or only to prevent the bogie from swinging?) Are those cables under tension when the gun fires and how is the tensioning done? Lift bogie, place cable and lower bogie slightly again?
Many questions, few answers ...
/ Robin
Frenchy
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 08:20 AM UTC
The torque rod hooks are visible in the picture below :
http://data3.primeportal.net/artillery/dieter_krause/155mm_long_tom/images/155mm_long_tom_16_of_48.jpg
H.P.
http://data3.primeportal.net/artillery/dieter_krause/155mm_long_tom/images/155mm_long_tom_16_of_48.jpg
H.P.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 08:48 AM UTC
I image they could lower the bogie again slightly to tighten up those cables but I am told raising and lowering the wheel set with those two giant screws and that long handled wrench was a real pain in the Arse challenge and a very slow process. I can certainly see the gun crew passing up on that little house keeping chore.
But then too, I can also see the commander wanting to square the gun away later if there was a break in the firing.
Just a guess but I suspect those cables were something the original ordinance designers thought to be very important but if you ask a Vet I bet he would tell you those 4 cables went into those storage hooks and never came out again.
But then too, I can also see the commander wanting to square the gun away later if there was a break in the firing.
Just a guess but I suspect those cables were something the original ordinance designers thought to be very important but if you ask a Vet I bet he would tell you those 4 cables went into those storage hooks and never came out again.
Kevlar06
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 08:58 AM UTC
So, I have the WWII Hussar wheel set, but I haven't looked in my kit for about ten years now. I'm wondering if it would be best to build the trail in travel configuration first, then make the mods to the bogies, then attach the bogie assembly last to get rid of those elevated wheel sets by leaving out the cables altogether. I do have some flexible cable material (old RC aircraft wire), but I think it would still need to be cut at exact lengths to get it to fit, which would be difficult to do until the bogies are constructed. Attaching them would also be a real pain.
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 09:03 AM UTC
Well apparently the cables were only hooked up when in firing position with the bogie lifted off the ground.
Then it's my contention they were never hooked up at all so . . . . . ?
(Just one man's opinion.)
If I were an artillery man I would be a lazy one, that's for sure!
Then it's my contention they were never hooked up at all so . . . . . ?
(Just one man's opinion.)
If I were an artillery man I would be a lazy one, that's for sure!
mogdude
Joined: June 18, 2012
KitMaker: 459 posts
Armorama: 195 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 09:30 AM UTC
im sent
Frenchy
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 10:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I image they could lower the bogie again slightly to tighten up those cables but I am told raising and lowering the wheel set with those two giant screws and that long handled wrench was a real pain in the Arse challenge and a very slow process.
See what you mean.
At least you could not misplace these ratchet wrenches...
H.P.
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 10:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Well apparently the cables were only hooked up when in firing position with the bogie lifted off the ground.
Then it's my contention they were never hooked up at all so . . . . . ?
(Just one man's opinion.)
If I were an artillery man I would be a lazy one, that's for sure!
The question is what damage could/would be caused if they were not connected? You can bet your ass that if they did cause damage to the gun that deadlined it, the first time would be the last time they would be left off. The Gunnery SGT and Battery Commander would see to that.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 11:43 AM UTC
No doubt about that but my suspicion is that all they do is keep the bogie from rattling around when the gun is firing.
We really need someone who served on the gun to know for sure. One time at a model show I met a guy who announced "you're modeling what I did". Trouble is that was 4 years ago and I didn't know then what to ask the guy other than "how do you like it?"
We really need someone who served on the gun to know for sure. One time at a model show I met a guy who announced "you're modeling what I did". Trouble is that was 4 years ago and I didn't know then what to ask the guy other than "how do you like it?"
petbat
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 08:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
At least you could not misplace these ratchet wrenches...
H.P.
Unintentionally...….
Great info guys. This is going in the keep file for sure...
berwickj
Joined: April 16, 2007
KitMaker: 352 posts
Armorama: 342 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 01:06 AM UTC
That's an amazingly clear scan H.P. Where did you get it? Mine is very dark.
Regards,
John
Regards,
John
RobertP44
Joined: November 23, 2018
KitMaker: 6 posts
Armorama: 6 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 01:27 AM UTC
Frenchy
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 02:08 AM UTC
I have bought and downloaded TM 9-3038, dated 1955 (for $1.99 ) here :
https://payhip.com/b/geFs
but if you're on a budget, you can download TM 9-350 (1945) from here :
https://archive.org/details/TM9-350/page/n33
but the quality is not as good (maybe that's the one you have)....
H.P.
) here :https://payhip.com/b/geFs
but if you're on a budget, you can download TM 9-350 (1945) from here :
https://archive.org/details/TM9-350/page/n33
but the quality is not as good (maybe that's the one you have)....
H.P.
RobinNilsson
TOS ModeratorJoined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
Armorama: 5,562 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 02:16 AM UTC
H.P.,
do you have a link to the "shop" and not just that specific TM?
I am curious about other TM's ....
/ Robin
do you have a link to the "shop" and not just that specific TM?
I am curious about other TM's ....
/ Robin
Frenchy
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 02:22 AM UTC
berwickj
Joined: April 16, 2007
KitMaker: 352 posts
Armorama: 342 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 02:45 AM UTC
Thanks H.P.!!
That's exactly what I needed. $2 is budget enough for me. I had the other one, but it was too dark.
Regards,
John
That's exactly what I needed. $2 is budget enough for me. I had the other one, but it was too dark.
Regards,
John
RobinNilsson
TOS ModeratorJoined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
Armorama: 5,562 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 02:48 AM UTC
Thanks 
PzAufkl
Joined: October 24, 2009
KitMaker: 104 posts
Armorama: 103 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 03:59 AM UTC
Hi Gunners,
I intend to treat my Long Tom as follows: cut off/drill out the "torque bracket bolts" on parts B 34/35, remove the "cables" of these parts and replace them with pieces of suitable thickness thread cemented into pre-drilled holes. Maybe add the hooks, too.
And while we're in the area: To secure the lifting screws against rattling loose while traveling, there's a "dog bone" put over their tops (maybe the official name is "lifting screw lock"?), as can also be seen in the first pic of Michael's model. Is that thing available in any aftermarket set or elsewhere? Seems like a natural for 3D-printing.
Peter
I intend to treat my Long Tom as follows: cut off/drill out the "torque bracket bolts" on parts B 34/35, remove the "cables" of these parts and replace them with pieces of suitable thickness thread cemented into pre-drilled holes. Maybe add the hooks, too.
And while we're in the area: To secure the lifting screws against rattling loose while traveling, there's a "dog bone" put over their tops (maybe the official name is "lifting screw lock"?), as can also be seen in the first pic of Michael's model. Is that thing available in any aftermarket set or elsewhere? Seems like a natural for 3D-printing.
Peter
Frenchy
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 04:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
maybe the official name is "lifting screw lock"?
In the TM, this part (E) is called "Bogie lifting screw lock"
You can notice the cables hung on the torque rod hooks...
H.P.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 11:09 AM UTC
Found this TM picture on the instruction sheet of the Masters Productions back-dating wheel set.
Certainly seems like a part someone would make in etch. I thought of adding a cross bar made of Evergreen material between the two screw jacks to represent this part.
The Masters Productions back-date kit that includes the M1 Limber also includes this part done in delicate resin.
Note the tied on canvas "socks" to protect the screw threads from road grime.
Certainly seems like a part someone would make in etch. I thought of adding a cross bar made of Evergreen material between the two screw jacks to represent this part.
The Masters Productions back-date kit that includes the M1 Limber also includes this part done in delicate resin.
Note the tied on canvas "socks" to protect the screw threads from road grime.
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