Hi all,

Whilst waiting for the Milliput Mantlet Dust Cover to cure, before reducing the ‘folds’ further, , I decided to start proper construction of the tank commander.

I had roughed him out previously using blu tack to hold his arms and head in place until I had the ‘sit’ feel right. In the end I have changed his left arm, rather than being draped casually over the edge of the FCT (Fire Control Turret) I felt it would look better if he was holding on to something (see images below). The right arm remains unchanged with his elbow resting on the roof of the FCT.











As you can see, I have had to perform some serious surgery on his left arm, I have started to fill the gap and will hopefully rebuild this area over the next few days.

At the suggestion of Brian (Boots DMS) I have decided to provide goggles. Surprisingly, in my view, neither the Bronco or Miniart British Tank Crews come with goggles so I'm going to have to try and 'sculpt' some, .

In the diorama I intend to build the tank is just starting to reverse from a prepared position, so I decided to try sculpting the goggles as if they're hanging around his neck. In the images above you can just make out the rough shape I've begun to form using Milliput, once this is dry I will add another thin layer and form the lenses and rims. I'm basing them on WW2 style American tanker goggles, whilst I accept that this style might not have been de rigueur in the British Army, I doubt it's beyond possibility that the commander has scrounged them off of a friendly Yank during some exercise or another in Germany, .

Regards,

G

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the welcome.

I totally agree about the folk on this site, I have followed things for a few years and finally plucked up courage to have a go, .

Fingers crossed regarding improvement, at the moment it’s a bit rough around the edges and I’m making some schoolboy errors…but, as they say, onward and sideward, .

Thanks again, and happy modelling yourself,

G

Hi all,

Today I have pretty much completed the Main gun turret and commander’s FCT, all that is left is to add the smoke grenades to the launcher mount (12 tiny pieces) but, before I add them, I want to look at the possibility of showing some having been launched. Also, there are 6 miniscule tie-downs, but I will add these very last thing when I can minimise the risk of my innate clumsiness causing them to break off accidently during handling, .

Below are some images of the, more-or-less, completed turret(s), tomorrow I hope to add some stowage to rear basket and drape some camouflage netting over the turret and main gun barrel.

The turret basket is a very fiddly and fragile construction, and positioning it on the turret and fixing it in place took some doing for my stumpy fingers, .













Regards,

G

It's coming together nicely! Looks like you're taking to it like a duck to water.

Gareth,

'Looking good!

Re the smoke dischargers: as far as I know they were fired on a one-er ie all or nothing, so either have them with grenades in, or leave them empty. I haven't found any pictures that show them loaded but I haven't tried that hard. If you want them loaded then plastic rod of the right diameter (for the tubes) will be the solution and I think they protruded around 2-3".

The rear stowage rack could be filled (primarily) with the vehicle camouflage net; once a net is in position the small tie-downs would probably not have shown much as the bulk of the net would obscure them. A couple of ration boxes and perhaps a water Jerrican and a call sign board would also be present I should think for most exercises.

Making a stowed net of this size can be a bit of a bind; I tackle it by moulding a large chunk of Milliput and fit it to the stowage rack, but also allowing for where any other items might go. I Then remove it carefully from the rack trying not to distort its shape too much. I then let it dry overnight. Next up I wrap a piece of gauze bandage material around it, dampened but not soaked (or it'll lose it's shape)in diluted white glue. Once dry I then add as many pieces of Tamiya masking tape to the gauze as I feel is necessary to replicate the Hessian strips. This is only the first layer.

I'll repeat this a couple of more times until the surface of the actual Milliput is just about obscured. As it's a stowed net the "Hessian" can be placed any which way. You can have some tapes hanging down beyond the rack if you like. Ensure it will still fit into the rack as you go.

I forgot to mention that I slice my masking tape to around 1.5mm in width; whether or not that is accurate or not I don't know but it looks right. I'm sure this qualifies me as a bad modeller!

Once thoroughly dry I then paint in green and brown; I think nets back then were mainly a dark brown - the green versions didn't I appear until later. I install this once the main model is painted I hasten to add. I always dry brush not least to pick out the netting which on these older pattern nets would still be very visible.

I must emphasise I'm not trying to hijack your project here - just offering up a few ideas; other modellers of course may be able to offer similar ideas and even better ways to portray camouflage nets.

Brian

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the kind words…duck to water might be appropriate…serene on the surface, but paddling like mad beneath the water, .

Thanks again, and cheers, .

G

Hi Brian,

Thanks for the info on the smoke dischargers, it’s a shame that it’s a one-shot system. The kit comes with them loaded, so will leave it at that, it was just an idea to show on the model.

One step ahead of you with the Milliput and two jerry cans built, just need to add filler caps and handles. Will start to cover with bandage material soaked in diluted white glue tomorrow to bulk it out and then look at how I’m going to make the hessian strips as I don’t have any masking tape at the moment…may end up buying some though, .

By the way, you’re bang on with your hessian tape width, in 1:1 the strips are 2”, this equates to 1.45mm in 1:35th scale...it just goes to prove the old adage, if it looks right, it is right, .

I haven’t taken it as you hijacking, your advice throughout the build so far, and that of others, has been invaluable…I’m the newbie here, and I’m not too proud to take guidance from the more experienced folk that care to share their knowledge with me…so thank you, and thanks to others, like Robin, who have provided encouragement and support.

Regards

G

Hi all,

Not a great deal done today, basically been fitting a lot of small fiddly parts today. Most of the pioneer tools, spare track parts, brackets, etc (see images below).







Talking of small and fiddly, I think the engineers at Amusing Hobby wanted us to be challenged, there are four supports, each made up from two parts, for the tow cables, two each side and, oh, boy! are they a nightmare, least for me they were (see image below), .



The number of times they 'flicked off' on to the carpet when try to clean and assemble them, luckily the carpet monster was asleep and i was able to recover the parts. They still need a clean-up, but that can wait until tomorrow...i've run out of expletives...plus i have to save some swear words for the Rugger tonight,

I'm hoping that this weekend...in between the Six Nations Rugby, socialising, and chores, ...will see me complete all the hull and turret parts. Then it's tracks and any add-ons, e.g. netting and stowage, etc., next week and possibly...the start of painting, dreading that, .

Talking of dreading things, I'm new to photo etched parts but, luckily, Amusing Hobby have given a choice of plastic or metal parts, and i have stayed plastic...'coward' i hear you cry, . However, one of the few parts where they haven't given a plastic option is the headlight guards...damn and blast, .

Is there a particular type of super glue that is recommended for metal to plastic and how best to apply it to the parts in question?

Have a great weekend all,

Regards

G

Any Cyanoacrylate (CA), super glue type should work fine fixing your PE parts to your models. Here in the states I usually use KrazyGlue with the brush in the cap.

I agree, any cyanoacrylate glue will work, but a slower setting one will be MUCH easier to work with. I use “Bob Smith Industries” CA glue. It comes in quick setting, slow setting, and runny liquid. The slow setting one is what I use the most for PE parts. It also helps adhesion if you sand the PE fret with 600-1000 grit sand paper on the surfaces that will see glue and wash the entire fret with detergent before use.

When it comes to tiny parts and the carpet, one thing you can do is attach a small bit of tape to the part before you cut. It will either tape it down or if it does fly, it won’t fly as far and will be easier to see.

Looking very good indeed Garath.

Adding a bit to what Brian described as his method of making nets, I find that if you form the Milliput or epoxy putty of your choice inside a piece of cling film (food wrap) placed where the part will go, you can leave it to harden in situ, then pull up the cling film taking the hardened part out with it later. This way you overcome risk of distortion when removing it.

I do the same when I make plaster ground work. Form the plaster to the basic shape, lay the film on top, bunching it a bit between where the tracks go to allow for stretching, then press the vehicle into the film to form the track depression. This way the tracks will always be flat on the base. After curing the film comes away and the tracks are not stuck in them or blocked up with plaster.

Looking forward to the end result.

Thanks to Richard and Krupp for the info on super glue, and to Krupp for the hints on avoiding the carpet monster...will give it a go.

Cheers, ,

G

Peter,

Thanks for the kind words, and thank you for the hints relating to clingfilm, i will certainly try that when forming the diorama base.

Cheers, ,

G

One trick that I use sometimes is to super glue the PE (or resin) to a thin shim of polystyrene. That way I do not need to bother with correct positioning. When it has hardened I trim the edges and then I can use ordinary styrene glue or solvent to glue the other side of the shim to the plastic kit.
This allows time for positioning.
The method also works for gluing resin to resin.
If needed I sand down the resin a little extra to make space for the shims. The end result is that I glue styrene to styrene with the resin parts as backpacks ...

Since I use a pure solvent (ethyl acetate) I do the gluing with capillary action, hold parts together, apply very small drop of glue to the edge of the joint. Glue is sucked into the joint and since the volume is small it evaporates quickly.
Using solvents like this is almost quicker than gluing with super glue.
I quit smearing glue on parts and then trying to position them correctly many years ago, I never got it quite right.
With solvents it is nearly impossible to get it wrong
DO NOT SPILL the solvent on the parts, they end up looking strange .....

/ Robin

Hi all,

A few images relating to the work I’ve managed today.

Had a go at putting together some track links today. I have read a number of reviews relating to Amusing Hobby kits and, those that I have read, all have given positive feedback on building up their tracks. Having had a go I can concur that the track links were easy to assemble and well detailed, I can’t say it was a pleasure as repetitive work is tedious, but Amusing Hobby have done a good job here (see image below), .



Having never constructed this sort of track before I’m not certain if the ‘curvature’ is natural or due to something I did, but it doesn’t seem to be an issue when fitting the track to the running gear.

I have decided to cheat though, , as the top run of track isn’t visible due to the bazooka plates, I am only going to connect enough links to run from the top of the idler to the top of the drive sprocket, keeps the tedium to a minimum. I’m also going to glue the links as I don’t want workable tracks, it’ll also keep them from falling apart.

I have started to fit camouflage nets, both stowed and deployed (see images below). I have also dry fitted two jerry cans in the rear turret stowage basket to check fit. There are still the hessian strips to be applied once I’ve determined whether the tape I have works, or whether I’ll have to buy some Tamiya masking tape instead.















It might not be that clear in the above images but I have also deformed the back and front end of the track guards to represent wear and tear.

Regards,

G

Hi Robin,

Your idea of super glueing to a piece of plastic prior to glueing sounds brilliant, so simple, but so easy as you say, it's then styrene to styrene, thanks.

Cheers, ,

G

Hi all,

Today I have built the second length of track and, as you can see from the image below, this track does not curve, so somewhere on the original track I must have not clicked the tracks properly together, ...need to check it out.



As previously mentioned, I do not intend to build two complete runs of track as the top run cannot be seen due to the bazooka plate. However, I did decide to extend the track length from 60 links each side to 80 links so that the track spanned to the first and last return rollers (see images below). This was for two reasons, firstly, from a low angle it was possible to see that the track was incomplete if it was stopped on top of the drive sprocket as originally intended and, secondly, it will allow me to ensure the track is taut when fitted permanently.





You can see from the above images that the links drape slightly over the return rollers, this might be visible when the top hull is in position so I have reduced each side by 4 links, down to 76.

I have now, pretty much, completed the post painting phase, I only have a grand total of 9 pieces to apply. These are the machine gun and ammunition box and box holder that goes on the FCT (Fire Control Turret), these 3 parts I will leave off and paint separately. The 2 lower bazooka plates, these will be added after the lower hull is painted and weathered. There are 2 pieces that fit between the lower hull front and the mudguards, think these might have to wait until the top and bottom hull are glued together after painting. And finally, the 2 photo etched headlight guards…need to have a go at these…eeeeek, .

There are quite a few pieces not used, these will go to start my 'spares box'. Some left over pieces are obviously for the non-working suspension option, and some are for the MK1 kit, however, it left me feeling nervous and wondering whether I’d missed something, , especially as i didn't build everything in the same order as the instructions. I have double checked and cannot see anything obvious that i might have missed, but it would have been a nice touch if Amusing Hobby had indicated on their sprue parts guide any bits that are not intended for use on the MK2...just a thought, .

Anyway, below are a number of images of the model prior to its pending paint job.

















Now all i have to do is build a spray booth, ...and learn how to use a compressor and airbrush, .

Cheers all, ,

G

Before you start painting!
Take photos from all possible angles and check the photos carefully. A photo will show small gaps and blemishes that the human eye might miss. The eye adjusts for different distances and something in the background can catch the attention and the blemish in the foreground will go unnoticed.
The photo is flat, one single distance, and somehow the human vision sees the photo differently.
Studying photos is a good way to detect small faults.
Since digital photos are free we can make a lot of them and then discard them.

/ Robin

Hi Robin,

Good idea, i have noticed that already a number of times when i've put a photo in here. I think a pale grey base coat will also help highlight areas that need tweaking.

Thanks again,

G

I agree with Robin again, it floors me how often I think I’m done & it all looks hunky, only to be appalled when I take test shots. It’s like someone else built it & nowhere near as well as I could! I’d also suggest take a break before you look at those photos, like several days – the longer you leave it the more you’ll see. Having said that yours does look great to my ignorant eye regarding this particular tank & the netting nicely draped

There is something with the joint between the glacis and the lower front which looks slightly off to my eyes but I could be imagining things ...
I get the impression that the center of the glacis is pressed down more than the right and left sides



One further aspect of looking at photos:
Even a simple camera will give large pictures which can easily be twice as wide & high as the screen on the computer.
Looking at those images is like checking the model with a high magnification magnifier
/ Robin

Hi Tim and Robin,

Thanks for the comments on using the images to determine areas that need working on, the tips that the folk on this site have been sharing are starting to prove useful.

Robin, good eyesight regarding the glacis joint, luckily it's not a defect...as yet, ...it's simply that i haven't glued the top of the hull to the bottom yet, they're just dry fitted, i intend to do the glueing after the base colour has been added.

Cheers guys, .

G

Nice to hear (i.e. read) that it wasn't a problem yet and
comforting to know that my eyes weren't playing tricks on me
/ Robin

Hi all,

Not achieved much today, decided I would add some scrim to the camouflage nets to see what it looked like (see images below).

I’m sure it’s not realistic, but it’s my first attempt at a hessian strip type camouflage net...hopefully i'll improve if i do another, .

I have dyed it a light green as a temporary measure as it looked bloomin’ awful in the natural ‘white’ of the material used when I took some photos. Obviously, the finished product will be a different colour and will be high and low lighted and dry brushed…hopefully it’ll look a tad better then, .











Regards,

G

Hi all,

Again, not done very much these last couple of days so only a small update on some minor works, .

The first thing I decided to do was drill out the aerial mounts (see images below). These are tiny conical (nipple-like) protrusions on the turret top, they are moulded solid and I would imagine that trying to glue an aerial on top of them will be, at best, a precarious challenge and, most likely, a temporary and oft repaired route to take, at least inserting the aerial in to a hole should be more permanent.







The interesting thing is that there are three such protuberances but, in all the photos I’ve seen only the two on the left-hand side seem to be shown with aerials, No. 19A set to the rear and No. 31 set forward, not sure if the right-hand side one was used, but it’s drilled out now, .

I have also found that the drivers hatch is a very small opening and would recommend that if you are going to build with a driver in-situ that you give some thought as to how you might do this. I discovered that if you want to install a driver with arms he will probably need inserting from below, this means you will need to decide when you fit him and paint him, and when you mate the upper and lower hull and paint etc.

I decided I wanted to fit my driver after the tank has been fully constructed and painted so I installed a support member inside the hull top, and I carried out drastic surgery, cutting off a chunk of torso so he sits about right (in my view) when dropped through the hatch. The hatch is so small that it’s not obvious, once positioned correctly, that the driver is sans arms (see images below), .









Finally, I have my compressor and a couple of airbrushes (see images below), just need to order some paints and learn how to use them, .



I’m thinking that I might build the base first and practice painting that first before turning my hand to the Conqueror…any thoughts much appreciated?

Regards,

G