Recently, I built a couple of Trumpeter, 1/35th scale railcar kits, and I am now in the process of building one of their locomotive kits as well. I have also noted that others like MiniArt also offer rail stock and track in 1/35th scale.

So, I am wondering why there is not a functioning 1/3th scale model railroad class… like N, HO, and O?
With all the currently available figures, vehicles, and accessories; it just seems like a natural….

Or, is there one and I just missed it?

Bummbar

Size and expense drives model railroading toward smaller scales. Model railroaders typically want a large variety of civilian off-track vehicles, not tanks, and there are very few of those in 1/35, so the large number of military vehicle kits is pretty much irrelevant.

KL

I wish that there was more 1/35th RR stuff available. Not electrified just plain old static items. Sabre & Mirror Models have brought us some nice rolling stock, MiniArt has given us a bunch of track side diorama stuff. I'd like to do a non military diorama one day.
The new rolling stock releases come with WWII era decals. I'd like to see some post war decals for all European Countries as most of the surviving equipment was probably still in use even in the 1960's or even later.
Jim, I do believe that there is something called 1Gauge. It's 1/32th scale and probably tough to find.
BTW, welcome to Armorama ! A great site with great , knowledgeable, helpful people!

Edit to my first post: I just went to Walther's Train web site https://www.walthers.com/products/scale/i-scale-1/32-scale/page/5
It's I scale not 1 scale. Man, that stuff is pricey even though it is Marklin. $500 for a box car, $2500 or more for an engine.
Drop $20,000 for a basic layout, CRAZY !

it is remarkable that 1 gauge uses 1/35 for cars and trucks. the other way around simply does not work.
Depending on the amount of your credit card left overs, check this site.
https://becasse-weathering.blogspot.com
Check some links he provides every now and then. You will see prices for Märklin Locos are outrageous, Rolling stock for 1 Gauge starts around $100.-.
1/35 scale is like 1/32 scale, which is 1 Gauge a perfect diorama scale.
The link will explain how that works. There is a display with hidden shadow stations, to hide future train movement prior to enter the scene displayed.
For a Loco in 1/35 scale, Thunder Models and the Trumpeter range offer some good models. I started one from Trumpeter, some 7 years ago, but sold it.
Never regret that, it was horrible. You need a lot of AM to get those kits representable, and correct.
Wait for the new Thunder Models release of the BR 80. That will certainly be a good and realistic 1/35 scale kit. Like their rolling stock, top notch.

Kind regards,

Robert Jan

When you click on the link, you'll see a real master in weathering. Most of the models are commission work, from friends and even the big brands.
He is a real artist. A lot of my inspiration comes from watching his work.

Ivanhoe6, this guy is specialized in the period after WWII, enjoy and click the other links to an even better experience on what is available nowadays, which is way beyond Märklin.

Kind regards,

Robert Jan

If you want a functioning RR in 1/35, it is possible but a little expensive, and will require some ingenuity. You will need a # 1 scale (1/32) locomotive (or just the mechanism) and metal track. The mechanism will have to have a similar wheel combination as the model loco you want to use. This is where you have to get creative: junk the wheels from the model loco, and maybe parts of the frame - most of what you will use is the boiler and cab, and various bits and details. Compare the kit boiler to the loco frame; You may have to cut out parts, or all, of the bottom of the kit boiler to fit over the electric motor and gears of the loco. A lot of adapting and some faking will be required to make everything fit and look good. I know it's possible because I've done similar using HO mechanisms to make narrow gauge loco's in O scale, to run on HO track.

Addendum: 1 scale runs on 45mm spaced tracks; 1/35 on 41mm spaced tracks. You will have to re-gauge any 1/35 rolling stock to fit. Not a big deal as you are dealing with a plastic kit and you only have to re-space the wheels by a few millimeters. Hardly noticeable.

Robert Jan, thanks for the link ! That is some OUTSTANDING dio work! But that is what I'm talking about. I'd like to do a large layout maybe 1,5M x 60CM or 5' x 2'. Much like his a 2 level layout. Train & track on the ground and a city scene up on top with my MiniArt tram, street then a row of building façades.
I did like his use of puddles. An idea I'd steal.

One can dream can't we.....


Any idea where I can get some Deutsche Bahn, DB decals in 1/35 or 1/32 ???

Try Peddinghaus in Germany. They make railroad decals for several of the existing WWII rail kits and they might have some post-war stuff.

Thanks Shell for the Peddinghaus tip ! They had lots of RR decals but unfortunately it was all Reichbahn Fortunately they had some other decal sheets that I've been looking for. Did you know that they even have eyeball decals ? Ya learn something every day !

I think what you are asking is, why is there not yet a railroad scale for military modelers, encompassing the military scale of 1/35, for modelers who mainly want 1/35 trains as part of their military genre? Not whether there should be a new general 1/35 model railroad scale for civie trains, right Jim?

There sort of is: No.1, or "1 Gauge"/"Gauge 1"/"No.1 Gauge," which is 1/32. It is collectively lumped under the umbrella of "G Gauge" with all of its scales of 1/32 - 1/20.3.

NMRA, the National Model Railroad Association, recognizes 1/32 as part of their Proto:Scale standard: S-1.1 Standards for Proto Models

But 1/32 is not 1/35. 1/35 may be developing its own scale, "41 mm," per CMK, Dragon, and Trumpeter. But no letter code yet.

I looked up model railroad scale codes and there is not yet an "M scale." Perhaps military-scale modelers should petition NMRA and Europe's NEM to make "M" the code for 1/35?

Thanks Guys! you have given me some great info to work with!

And, sorry for the typo.

I do think 1/35 scale would make a good working model railroad though - I am thinking of something along the lines of a railyard - sort of an animated diorama.

I agree that the Marklin/Gauge 1 equipment is way too pricey for me; but, some of the associated parts and accessories for it I found on-line my be worth looking at.

I have been looking at various trackwork and also believe it would be better to scratch build rather than buy Gauge 1 track as well - given that I am looking toward a small to medium sort of layout- BUT, THERE IS A HITCH....

Most of the European railways are NOT spiked; most use those clamps/chairs (Don't know the real name of the assembly) to hold their rails to the ties. And, it appears that even as Germany re-gauged railways, they did not spike (please chime-in if you know different) I need those....to fit the Code rail I finally choose.

I was thinking that the "clamps/chairs" described above would be best made by 3D printing. I have done some 3D printing....I would say I am an -out-of-the-box novice at best. Where I really fall short is in part design abilities......

With a proven part design hashed out - I could even post it on Shapeways and Thingiverse to make it available; and, could even get it printed in ABS to make it very durable...

Well, that is my line of thinking anyway.....

Jim

Hi Jim,

"Clamps/chairs" are 'tie plates' in the US, and "baseplates" or "sleeper ties" across The Pond.

I can not attest to whether the Germans used their tie plates when re-gauging Soviet track but I will bet, that for expedience, they initially used Soviet spikes and tie plates. That is what this image shows: https://www.quora.com/What-did-Germany-do-in-World-War-II-about-the-different-rail-gauge-in-the-Soviet-Union The 9th photo down is interesting: https://erenow.net/ww/operation-barbarossa-german-invasion-soviet-russia/4.php

Armor35 makes re-gauged track and that is how they show it. I presume they have artifacts to work from.

Armor35 makes excellent track in whole kits, and they also make the rails, ties (sleepers), spikes, and the like. The ties are available in both resin or wood, and the wood is excellent. I have not calculated the cost for a small vignette of a yard.

This is the European rail:

The European tie plate/baseplate:

Real wooden ties of German design:

Full kit:

Here's their track page: http://project.armor35.ru/index.php/component/virtuemart/accessories.html

They have at least one 1/35th scale Bundesbahn set #1390 and one Bundeswehr set #2649.

H.P.

MiniArt makes European and Russian gauge track kits as well, though I don't believe they have any curved sections of track, or switching sections. And if it's going to be a working diorama those plastic rails will have to go and be substituted with metal rails. And who knows if those will fit right. I think best bet would be scratchbuilt track. You can 3d print those sleeper ties in a sort of sprue configuration, and then use that as a master for resin casting copies, which could be cheaper in the long run.

If you move forward with this, keep us posted. I'd love to see how this pans out.

I would think using wood strip of approximate dimensions for RR ties would be LOTS cheaper than either 3D printing them, or resin casting them. Model RR'ers who scratch-build their own track typically use wood strip (or buy ready-made wood ties).

To be honest, I bought 3 sets of the MiniArt European Gauge, because their base plates are pretty accurate, representing S49 standard mounting plates from the Reichsbahn. The standard is still, after so many years leading for the whole of Europe. To be very correct, one has to measure the sleepers length. There were two sizes for the sleepers for 3 different variants, 2.5m & 2.6m.
Link below shows the excellent design of German Standard S49. If you want to know all about tracks this is your bible. It's in German, so should be no problem. https://www.hosentraeger-spur1.de/index.php/der-reichsbahnoberbau
Reason why I'm in doubt about the MiniArt sets, is the fact Sabre Models came up with an upgrade on their tracks provided with kits, but also available as accessories now with a good price. From their site the tracks look 10 times better than the MiniArt sets.I also have a few sets from T Model, but sleepers are too short, but the base plates are excellent. They added metal straps for reinforcement on the sleepers end, they should have left that.
Switches in resin you can order from Joefix studios. But sizes are Märklin Metal. 3 times too short for a scale switch in 1/35, standard LH or RH should measure between 90cm / 95cm.
The Russian company did switches in resin too. You better grab your chair when reading the prices. Their baseplates are ok. Bought them for my scratch project building a switch.

Have a nice evening all and enjoy life.

Robert Jan

Ah, I should have been more clear, I was referring to the part that attaches the rail to the sleeper tie, the baseplate I guess. But yea, strips of basswood cut to length would be cheap and work just fine.

Also note that the length of the tracks were either 15m or 30m in S49. Means the smallest section in 1/35 measures a 42cm. Armor 35 offers an excellent set, I'm pretty sure of that, but misses approx. 8cm in length. MiniArt & Sabre Model, DITO.
A small detail for building your tracks. A base plate has a little angle inwards, so the tracks are not mounted a perfect 90º to the sleepers.
I like this, keep it up.

Kind regards,

Robert Jan

Thanks for the added info guys!

The Armor35 stuff appears to be all resin - except for the wooden sleepers - ties; and, it appears with no real regular US distributor, a bit pricy - IMHO. Finally, being resin it not functional as live track, obviously. But Armor35 does make some other items that would be great! Again, with no US distributor, not sure how or at what cost?


Getting wood sleepers is not a big problem here in the US as there are several micro-lumber mills about that will make lumber to your specs


First I must pick an existing rail code to use. I did order a small, used section of Marklin track off eBay and I hope to have it in a couple of days - I got it as a physical example of Gauge 1 to have on-hand.


I am also investigating the possible use of code 148 rail from MicroEngineering - a buddy has promised me a piece of that too. SO, that is where I am at on rail. The MicroEngineering rail comes in both 36 inch and 18 inch lengths; 15, 1/35, scale meters is 16.9 inches - so I think that covers the sectional rail lengths issues.


Obviously, I will have to choose a rail before I can begin to develop a Tie-Plate/Clamp (TPC) for the effort. I do want the tie-plate and clamps (TPCs) to be one part - I think it has to be for the live track to stay in shape; and, I think if it was ABS it would last longer than PLA - not 100% on that as new PLA formulas are out there and they seem to be tougher than PLA of old... And there is also PET - but I have no experience with that material.


I am also thinking the bottom of the TPC should have a round pin that protrudes from the bottom center that would extend through the scale sleeper. then all that would be needed is to sink the TPC into holes drilled into the scale sleepers - maybe a dab of glue or epoxy to fasten them.....I guess a drill jig for the sleepers would be in order as well. And, I will need to make an alignment jig for checking trackwork as well.


I don't think I will be tilting the rails - not sure yet - I have to wonder if you would even notice it in scale?

But, a point to raise is that if I model a rail-yard I can fudge some of the curve radi as the majority of the track would be sidings for train staging and not main-line high speed service; and they general do that....

One dimension that sort of eludes me is the distance between the sleepers of two parallel tracks general for the RB of the era? (any help?)

Well, that is where I am at,

Jim

Hi Jim.
Standard space behind sleepers; Start with sleeper and end with a sleeper on both end of the track. In between you measure from the hart line (length) of the sleepers on both end to the middle. Should be 1.8cm. You have a little freedom to play with the 1.8cm.
See also the link, it shows a diagram for a 30meter track.
https://www.hosentraeger-spur1.de/index.php/der-reichsbahnoberbau. Calculate 630mm to scale and you have a nice rendition.
When you need more info, just ask because my links for railroads are most in German.

Kind regards,

Robert Jan

Trackwork Reference:

RAIL Analysis:
Code 215 is generally used for 1/32 scale, Gauge 1 trackwork. Below is a comparison of 1/35 scale model rail to functioning 1/32 scale Code 250 rail.

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Dimensions for Trumpeter model 1/35th scale rail:
 Height: 0.198” or 5.03mm
• Head Width: 0.076” or 1.92mm
• Base Width: 0.124” or 3.15mm

Dimensions for Marklin Gauge 1 rail (Code 215):
 Height: 0.215” or 5.45mm
• Head Width: 0.099” or 2.50mm
• Base Width: 0.193” or 4.90mm

It seems the best choice for creating live trackwork for a 1/35th scale railroad is going to be Code 215 rail. Code 215 rail is generally available in Nickel silver and Aluminum. Code 215 rail seems to come in 6foot and 3 foot sections. The Aluminum rail seems to come in plain and weathered To power the Aluminum rails, a set of Code 215 rail joiner will have to be obtained to solder power leads to.

MicroEngineering sells a 3 spike tie plate for Code 250 rail, but may be adaptable to use with Code 215 rail? My research shows the use of a 3 spike tie-plate on some German WWII ere rail lines and some Russian re-gauged rail lines used by Germany. I see a lot of the 3 spike tie plates in on-line images used on the rail-lines built to German concentration and POW camps. And, while I can not confirm there use visually, I do believe they could have been used by the Germans in the creation/expansion of supply depots and railyards…

SLEEPER Analysis:
I want to utilize real wooden sleepers, as they will have the best overall appearance when painted and weathers. Below is a dimensional comparison of a Trumpeter, 1/35th scale sleeper to a Marklin, 1/32 scale sleeper and a real wood Gauge 1 sleeper from Kappler’s

Trumpeter 1/35th scale sleepers:
• Length: 3.045” or 77.34mm
• Width: 0.352” or 8.93mm
• Height: 0.197” or 5.0mm

Marklin 1/32 scale, Gauge 1 sleepers:
• Length: 3.17” or 08.51mm
• Width: 0.357” or 9.07mm
• Height: 0.167” or 4.31mm

www.KAPPLERUSA.COM real wood 1/32 scale, Gauge 1 sleepers (made of Western Red Cedar):
• Length: 3.188” or 80.98mm
• Width: 0.281” or 7.14mm
• Height: 0.219” or 5.56mm

There are several firms in the US that sell 1/32 scale; and, several firms in the US that will cut micro-lumber to your specifications as well. Kappler’s is just one example.

Below is a visual comparison of a Trumpeter sleeper vs a Marklin sleeper:



With exception of the actual rail gauge (spacing) I think visually in overall dimensions they are quite close. The truth is that a a wooden Gauge 1 sleeper could probably be used and pass for a 1/35 scale sleeper – especially after scrubbing the wooden sleeper with a steel brush to weather them.

GAUGE Analysis:

Most railways in Europe use the Standard Gauge of 1,435 mm (4 ft 8 1⁄2 in). In WWII Germany, standard was used.
• In 1/32 scale that is 45mm.
• In 1/35th scale that is 41mm


Here are some comparison photos of Trumpeter’s 1/35th scale trackwork vs Marklin’s 1/32 scale trackwork:
On the left is Marklin track and on the right is the Trumpeter track (GREY)



Here is another view, Tumpeter track (GREY) is on top and Marklin is on the bottom



The easiest path to making live 1/35th scale trackwork is to utilize Gauge 1, code 215 rail, MicroEngineering’s 3 spike tie-plates and spikes on real wooden Gauge 1` sleepers. Just simply build the Gauge 1 components to the 41mm, 1/35th scale standard.

I have decided to use code 215 rail; and, I could use the wooden Gauge 1 sleepers as well But, I still want to move forward on making 1/35th scale TPCs and possibly some correct 3 spike tie-plates as well.

Jim

Great to see such research! Thumbs up!
I will be following this one.

Cheers

Too bad the MiniArt tracks were so disappointing. The ties failed to line up properly.