Somehow... my sheer obsession with the Sherman made me build this baby






-I've drilled down the holes on the MG
-All equipments were still left out because I'll apply whitewash

Still to do:
-Paint the treads then drybrush

-Apply more microsol (problem is it's too delicate now. As you can see in the front pic, the unit number got destroyed Suggestions?)

-Drybrush the edges with olive green (I've painted it in olive drab, any drybrush color suggestion other than Olive Green??
)

-Work on both figures

-Apply whitewash (any tips on this other than the article in FSM? )

Hey there buddy. i can see some silvering under the decals on this clean neat build. have u applied some gloss varnish under or future, cause maybe thats the reason for the silvering .you need some dirtying up and drybrushing and generall weathering.
Good way my friend and post some more updated

Thanks! I think Microsol will help me out there, problem is, I think it's too delicate now. Wouldn't it detoriate when I apply some more?

I have a question is their any paint on this thing?
Upper and lower don't look like it,just a question for ya!

YES!!! I've used Tamiya Olive Drab. The reason why it appears to have no paint at all is because of the smooth finish. A little drybrush and weathering will make a lot of difference.

Don't drybrush with olive green use the olive drab and add desert yellow to lighten the color... The true olive drab color faded more towards a brown color than to a green color ,but that is up to each individuals taste. If you want a little trick to help with your decals next time is use a pair of small scissors and cut out your decals as close as possible to the edge you have way too much clear decal paper that shows around your stars you could have cut all that off before applying the decal.This is just a tip to save you from the horrors of silvering ..the less clear decal the better...

Rick

Thanks for the head up! Good thing I will not work on the kit until next week. Should I apply first the whitewash then the drybrush or drybrush first then whitewash? With regards to the Olive Drab + Desert Yellow drybrushing, can you give me an approximate ratio?

I duuno about others but I usually try and paint in the order of events. For example

1) Factory fresh coat of OD and black where appropriate.
2) Little chips of sliver on such places that type of damage is likely to take place (bottom front tranny cover, cullen tips, damaged spots, etc.
3) Dirty washes/fadings
4) Rust
5) Dirt mud
6) Dry brush

If it were me I would white wash after dirty washes. I only say this because I would assume that a crew would likely give the tanks a cleaning before painting white. You can't paint on dirt you know. The basic vehicle underneath would still be worn out.

Well I hardly ever drybrush any more(I do most of my weathering with my airbrush) but if I were you I'd do a bit before and then again after the whitewash...As for amounts well I start off with just a little into the OD paint ..I do a complete drybrush job all over the kit ..I would then go back and add a bit more ...going back over the kit but just a bit lighter...add more and then just touch the real high points on the kit ...

Rick
P.S. I hate dry brushing with acrylics if you can get the enamel equivalents(humbrol or MM) you'll see it will work better.

Shonen, the best thing you can do now is to VERY carefully scrape off the surplus decal backing from around the stars and reapply paint, I've had occassion to do this in the past and it will work if you're careful enough. What happened? I'm guessing you tried to put them down on a matt surface? Say after me: "Always make sure you have a nice future or satin surface to put you decals on!"

Vinnie

Thanks for the tip! Actually I've never had problems with decals, only in this kit. Some of my AC kits have decals applied after spraying the base color. Oh well, I'll give it a try too.

I posted two methods for winter white wash as described by two members of Stockholm IPMS. the thread can be foundhere .



Dont know how microsol will work now on an already settled decal, but their position will be easily enough camouflaged by some strategic mud and dust if all else fails.
As "the bear" has already said ... lighten the olive drab rather than using olive green. Add about 25% dark yellow and give all areas a good dry brushing. Then add 50% and just touch the highest peaks.

As for whitewashing .... One of the best articles i have seen on this is in "military modelling" Vol.33 No.5, 9th May - 29th May 2003. Mig Jimenez builds, paints and weathers a Marder 3M. The white wash is placed over a dark yellow and looks very effective. Maybe somebody can scan this as there are lots of great tips.

Hey Shonen cool tank. Micro-Sol, I have used 4 or 5 applications to soften. So I dont think it will hurt any, just be careful.

I have a question, what do they use to paint the antenna? How long was it? Does it have a whitewash too?

Darn! I really can't fix those decals!